JOHNFAK

ANy chance the 00 factory unit is shot and the 01 unit needs a reflash or isn't compatible ?

Means ? Generally ?

Well the new pump and abs controller in ..... and this is what I get ..... http://s1059.photobucket.com/user/fakdaddy/media/truck/20150419_112842.mp4.html Since this came off an 01 and my truck is an 2000 I pull the abs controller off (breaking a other bolt off in process being as careful as I could with hand star bit driver) .... put in my new rebuilt factory original ..... and nothing .... doesn't move a peep .... brake light also goes on which the 2001 at least turned off .... Guess a $120 dealer scan now

New used pump arrived today will try and get her on this weekend

I can get a used pump for $100 .... think this is cheaper option ...... i had thought the same too ....

Correct on most of this .... didn't know although tried to be careful

Is there any liquid flow between the bottom of the ABS controller and the top of the pump ..... basically those studs that you see for controlling each line. Reason is I have two good holes .... would that be enough to hold in place ... or need all four to help hold properly .... just unsure how that abs stud mechanism works exactly

http://i1059.photobucket.com/albums/t430/fakdaddy/truck/20150413_083946.jpg

2 steps backward .... 1 forward Got the abs rebuilt .... But I busted a bolt off into pump block due to rusted. Drilled it out and started rethread .... then the tap busted and it's hardened steel... can't drill it out with bits I have. so unless anyone has any ideas on getting busted thread tap out ..... think I'm going to have to buy a abs pump.

Cut the balljoints Press out

Thx for call and dumbing it down ..... I shorted the circuit at rear .... measuring 0.008 or basically 0 also So both measurements same as yours ..... Will work on pulling the rear diff and servicing as well as the ABS and report back.

Sent you a PM. Im not sure what the other test is ...... but basically Remove left side ABS controller. Pin out the top right and bottom right pins with multimeter = 1.9k ohms ....... Im assuming the pin locations are the same for an 2000 ........

So you mean I can try and ohm back from abs controller .... only real wire ? Which pins ?

Honestly not sure what to do with that .... wires 1 and 8 ...... problem is still chasing further into cab ......

sure .... but its the physical ohm of the next step of harness I mean. Not sure how to do it. Basically if I ohm from the drivers side wheel well back up to harness towards cab I get 23k ohm. So if I follow that harness back to cab - it basically routes into the MAIN harness at a 3 way junction right by steering shaft.. So 1 junction goes into Cluster - not sure how to OHM that out unless I pull the cluster and then unsure what pins. Even if its ohms out bad - then what ? 1 Junction goes to ABS module. This would be easiest as its a plug - but which PINS and if it ohms out bad - then what ? 1 Junction goes into hardwired to bottom of PDC - not sure what I can do here at all. make sense ? I like the idea of running a wire to test that its a connection/wiring issue - but from where and to where ? And if it works - then ?? *shrug*

Lost me. Actually it seems the resistance is comming from the harness back to the cab from the wheel well drivers side. Drievrs side back to rear of truck is ok. That harness splits into 3 ....... ABS, CLUSTER and PDC. So how to chase the wire issue or a bad connection - eg PDS is hardwired right ??

Could I be measuring it wrong ...... its just on autodetect on my multimeter. Don't understand why it would read 23k ohm one way ...... and 1.9kohm the other .......same wire ok just went and did it again. Assuming Im doing it ok (basically bridging both wires rather than grounding and connecting to 1 wire at a time). I get 1.9k OHM going from the truck fender back to the rear diff. I get 23 going back from driver side wheel well harness back to cab. So if theres a bad connection/wire I guess its somwhere in the harness from the wheel well going back up which splits into 3 1 Run to Cluster 1 Run to PDC 1 Run to ABS module. So how do I track this down further --- to isolate as a faulty wire rather than bad ABS module, or cluster connection or PDC connection. If I do need a new wire then ??? New harness ?? Where from ??? thx

So ........ ohm readings 1) Unplug sensor and bridge the sensor pins - 1.9k ohm 2) Measure the ohm by bridging the female connector of harness plus - 23k ohm 3) Pull harness plug on drivers wheel well. Reads 1.9kohm going back to rear...... 23kohm going up to PDC. Not sure what all that means ........ obviously measuring resistance but basically I take it if it has a reading (NOT OL) then its ok. **SIDE NOTE** - dont know why - but the last 2 times I've driven with it dead ..... and I speed up over 60mph ...... it engages ..... and stays engaed until I turn the key off ...... then we go back to DOA. Could be just a coicidence. *shrug* Deal told me couldn't put it on a scanner until 14th April and would be $120 for DRB scan. ......... nuts. Other scanners pulled the codes listed above only.

Could be limp mode ....... you need a scanner on it to pull codes. My brand new tranny put me in limp mode too Beyond that you need to check line pressure at idle (hydraulic hose and guage) and as you manually switch between gears. But like W&F said - you really need to get on the phone and talk with builder and get an action plan.

Yeah I guess I'm looking for how to approach now. Will OHM out the harness from sensor back to wheel well. And see how I can ohm it out from wheel well back to cluster and update with readings. Guess Im wondering also on a couple of things 1) How to check that the connection to back of cluster is good - I know the cluster itself is fine. Pull the harness from wheel well and ohm out the harness connectios goign back to engine bay from there ? 2) How to know its not a tone/ring/gear pickup issue in rear diff ? 3) How to confirm that OSS sensor in transmission has no bearing on this - reading mixed views based on differnt year trucks and peoples understanding of the speedo Lights are check engine[ppump]/ ABS and brake light. Codes are missing injection pump, overboost (twin turbo), grid heaters ........

Reseated sensor and harness by wheel well .... used dielectric also No change

Dead this morning

Really .... couldn't be that simple right ?

Only real concern is odometer and speedo. Would have thought it was a wiring or fuse issue except it magically started working again about half way home ......today