JOHNFAK

62/12 you'll want a 65 turbine with that fuel.

Thx guys Haven't had time to look any further to the the seat itself ..... been chasing down a lockup issue ..... tracked down to a faulty tps ..... but won't know 100% till mid week when new one arrives Appreciate all the help and ideas

How quickly will 0.5A draw drain a good battery system. As I suspect that the main draw for the dead batteries was the bad battery - not this ....... but still wanted to track down. Also - how do you diagnose a bad switch for power seats.

Im curious whats involved to remove the cab. Body mounts, trans linkage, radiator support ? WIring harness ?

OK found it ---- plus also the reason why I missed it the 1st run. ELECTRIC POWERED SEAT FUSE (BIG SILVER FUSE). Reason I missed it was if you are monitoring it and pull the fuse ...... it still shows 0.5A on the circuit at the 140A lug after pulling fuse.......... you have to short the circuit (scratch/spark until the energy is gone) ad then it drops to 4.5mA (~0A). So before I button this ll back up .......... do I need to do any more diagnostics or any ideas on how to determine why the powered seats are drawing at key off.

IOD I *think* is 50MA from factory. Unsure with non factory radio and some other stuff ......... No aftermarket brake controller. Im sure when we track it down l'll feel like more of an idiot ...... but its not jumping out at me

Just to answer that. I had the batteries tested - 1 was bad and one was good. I already knew this thats why I isolated the passenger among other things (bad). So now I have new alternator, new passenger battery and a good drivers. I will run through the pulling fuse exercise again ....... and will capture a video of part of it ........ but yeah its pretty much what I have already done.

Never mind was thinking PCM. So you mean still to remove all fuses ??? Not sure - have done this. Is it possible for the security system which seems to have a ground wire going to PCM to be drawing 0.4A ? Dont know how to isolate that though.

Yup that looks right and sounds right. How do you mean pull every fuse out of the PDC ............the PDC is the circuit with teh C1,C2,C3 harness connectors ............. where are the fuses - under the main fuse box ?

I can shoot a video

Hey bud appreciate the time to post that video. Here's the deal though ............ I've done about 10 different tests and yet to isolate it. I think the most accurate test (yeah the ground was a booboo) was this. Remove the passenger battery cables so only have drivers side. Remove the drivers postive (to break some accessories and link to passenger) Remove ALL wires from the 140A fuse leaving just the 2 studs Bridge from the positive battery terminal to the 140A stud ...... still get ~0.45A Remove ALL relays and fuses and still same DRAW. So ....... unless Im missing something the draw is comming from something hard-wired in. Security alarm into PCM ???

Not the interior or hood lights Not grid heater Not radio or amps

Smaller black wire is the airdog harness .... which has its own 20A fuse. Pulling the 20A fuse results in no drop. Pulling the black and red wire off the left terminal still has ~0.4A draw between battery terminal and left 140a terminal.

The only thing that makes sense to me is I have an accessory that is grounded into frame. Thats why when I remove the negative cable the circuit breaks. Problem is I dont think its fused into the regular circuit - as puling every fuse doesnt break the circuit. So Im not sure how to test a circuit ....... kinda feel like I either need a tool like a powerprobe (would this show all live circuits ?) or start pulling all grounds for accessories whilst checking draw.

Already have. Pulled every fuse in cab as well as main fuse panel .... also relays ....... no change

Dont know if this helps ........ but I totally disconnected the driver ground cable (which is ground to frame, block and truck bed ) and then bridge from positive to Alternator wire 140A ...... no draw.

Too much going on to spend any time on it ...... will update when I know more Thx

Good idea ..... apart from having the battery tested how else do I test the battery for cell leakage at home ?

Ill try and grab another video ...... but yes ........ all wires removed from the 140A ........ and still has a 0.5A draw when bridging from battery terminal with multimeter

Tom Do you mean the black wire on the 140A ? I remove all 4 of those wires so there are only studs. 1) Remove and pin back the +ve cable from the drivers battery. Remove the cables from the passenger also. 2) Remove all four wires from the 140A circuit so only two studs are left. 3) On A~ mode on mulitmeter ...... bridge from +ve terminal to the stud on 140A. Reads 0.5A. 4) Start pulling fuses in PDC and CAB as well as relays. No change.

Yup - but I disconnect that red lead (connecting the 140a to the battery). So its two bare studs ........ and I probe from battery (+ve direct to the stud) and still read 0.5A

You can see what I'm doing here. All accessories are tied to red battery cable which is not connected to battery. When I probe from battery to the 140a studs with ALL alternator and FSS wires removed ( so only studs showing i remove those 4 wires in pic) I still get 0.5a draw. Removing fuses made no difference. Both in PDC and in cab.

There's lots on the positive terminal. But I'm bypassing that by removing the positive connection out of the way .... and the draw comes from the 140a main red wire ..... so at that point none of the accessories are connected .... correct ?

Pulled every single fuse except the yellow safety tab airbag ones ....... no change. Only one that had any effect was the 50A battery fuse in top left corner ..... but guessing thats expected.

ha !! Your guys are killing me .... need a dumbed down explanation. Are you saying that the alternator fuse not only protects the alternator circuit .... but the entire PDC as well ? I want to understand why with everything disconnected from ALT circuit there is something still able to draw on that circuit ........ so Im guessing that has to be the case and also the reason your saying to pull other fuses ?