JOHNFAK

^^^^ this open hood, pull on the accelerator cable ...... looks for soot comming out of the vband clamp you'll need to reseat the turbo and clamp to get a flush fitting....... Can also look for a missing bolt - usually in number #6

Is it louder through air filter box ?

call a trans builder and get the fitting sizes in and out of the case ......... then route as required.

ebay, amazon - basically stainless steel fuel line with the appropriate AN fittings. I have them on my truck - but I didn't do the work so cant tell you the sizes.

Merry xmas gang Hope yours was safe and warmed with your family and friends. Bring on 2014

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=4672671&cc=1366602 think this is the hot line going to the heat exchanger on passenger side. personally Id use a braided stanless stell fitting with -AN fittings ....... when replacing.

Ha so true Broke my mates socket with a cheater bar .......... and didnt think I was going to get it off without breaking another one or the cheater itself ...

thx sir ^^^ have a few days off this week so planning to knock a few of these smaller issues off

I always thought stainless steel break lines were kinda cool. But given they are $$ and the stock ones normally last ~200k miles ...... probably just stock replacement

19psi all the time ? no drop ? Mike isnt there a high limit to a stock VP44. I mean too much pressure ...... I think its higher than 19 though.

How do you do that ..... from meory the linkage is basically and arm tied into a cable or a rod. Is there an adjustment screw ? Yeah I remmeber when I did my first trans a few years back we had a problem where the NSS wouldnt engage in the VB correctly. I remember fixing that issue with the NSS ..... it was just a few "mm" short to make good contact. Here I think the linkage is out ........ so I'll fidle with that 1st ...... but if not will try a new NSS. thanks guys - sorry for not getting back dont get all the emails for updates

Yeah but if it wasnt working at all Id replace it. But seems more linkage related ....... if I really bump up on the parking Rod it enagges and I can start in P ..... else N. Cant rememeber how I got the NSS out last time ...... the sockets I have now dont fit as they are too thick to get around the nut (impact wrenches) ....... only a small gap between the NUT and the case itself.

So tracked it down to starter seems fine. Batteries fine (1 is new). Switched relays and fused around - seems fine. Starts in neutral though. So thinking a linkage or NSS. Thats on the trans for an auto right ? Just replace it - or check its making contact - have to pull pan for that though right ?

bridging starter results in crank - so definately think a wiring issue or similar

Dunno - If you read the threads theres a number of people dealing with it. Some from higher HP, some from the billet tappet cover. Right now I need to get the oil under control so will do some sort of catch can. Funny thing is if I just route a hose down (no gravity to fight) the amount of oil is actually only a couple drops. Similar to my 01 that had your vented PVC mod over the negine. This 12v billet cover has no baffling and no gravity to fight - so Im starting to think poor design in the tappet cover more than anything else - but will see and keep you posted.

2000 PPUMP 4x4 Pulled batteries to put on charger last nite as well as radio to install a new one.Both batteries 12.4V ....Truck wont crank at all - not even try. Starter fuses and relays look fine/ Switched them around with some others in PDC and no difference. Ideas on what to troubleshoot ? Had same issue when I came back from holidays. Pulled starter and it checked out ok and switched fuse and seemed to fix but fuse seems ok. thx

Another thread IM reading ..... http://www.competitiondiesel.com/forums/showthread.php?t=85410 check out post #9 Right now Ive mocked a catch can out of PVC endcaps to see how it works ...... then I'll go with something like ...... http://www.dhgate.com/product/greddy-oil-catch-tank-oil-catch-can-top-quality/142364626.html And just allow it to drain back when not under pressure. Still thinking of doing a compression test sometime. But there is literally no crank vapor coming out at idle.

How far you taken them on a regular decked block tony ? New truck I have has o-rings and ARP625 ...... so I dont feel as worried about boost ....... but man at $1k for studs - my old man about fell over

Thanks - haven't worked this out yet - pulled a few fuses and no drop. Will let you know.

What draw do you get mike ?

Have my multimeter on com (black wire) and 10A (red wire) Reading off negative terminal I get 0.55 ... how bad a draw is that ? Dial is set to AMP 10

I'd just work with jacob. DAP.Good peoples.

Skip the pan Billet input Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

Took a while to get time to clean her Details in my signature. Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

Yeah the problem with the billet tappet cover is there is no gravity to fight against like mikes vp44 vent So the vented catcher will let me have some lines routed against gravity which I think will reduce spill as well as an extra vent Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk