JOHNFAK

thanks David Im thinking worst case if that known problem area shows up through the paint ...... I can have someone pull it and put one of these replacement parts on ...... shouldnt be overly expensive. Then paint to match. Not wanting to have to do it - but doesnt sound as bad as I was originally thinking which is that it wold have to be custom fabricated and filled.

Orifice tube is in the ac line itself or in the condensor at the front ? Thx didn't know about the flushing. What do you guys think ? Shouldn't be that hard of a job if the AC evaporator in dash holds vacuum ?

- is that the full rocker - seems cheap. I'll be flying up there with a cashiers check ........driving back. I'm considering putting a custom charger on the truck that he's offered me as an optional deal ..... so most likely if I do that I'll just pay for that outright and it can serve as a deposit. thanks for the feedback and links .......appreciate it ......

Honestly totally understand what your saying. I've done a lot of research on what Im after ..... probably looked at over 200 trucks and talked with guys on over 30 .... and unfortunately not a lot of trucks that are built to support over 600HP that haven't been abused by a kid or have a somewhat vague history or come with their own set of problems. This was is built to 1000HP .... so my goal of a streetable 650 HP should be covered. The truck is only around 100k miles, the transmission less than 5000 miles and has top of the line parts pretty much everywhere. I was definately sold until I saw the rust - hence the thread. I actually just had an update from him - he seems like a decent guy - and he said its not rot through .... was a paint crack where dirt/water has gotten through ...... looks worse in the pic - and basically when it goes to get painted it will be stripped and wired back and sealed before its painted. So I think if I go ahead with it - I might just ask for pics of the problem areas to see how they were prepped and sealed/primered etc. If I get into trouble later - those replacement parts dont look outrageous - although I couldnt see the rocker panels in the JCWHITNEY link .... fenders.

- - - Updated - - - Honesty dont know but assuming they weren't capped off. Ill be replacing all factory components (unless anyone knows of a good aftermarket kit thats reasonable). How do you mean flushed ? Expansion valve Im guessing you mean the orifice tube ???

The whole truck doesn't - basically the two doors and this lower door jamb/panel. He is going to replace one of the doors as the lower panel is bad - that should take care of that. The other door is not as bad - Im guessing they will sand it back and then add some depth with filler and sand and paint. This is the worst part not sure how they would do it - it looks like its all the way through. Problem is its $18k truck by the time I get it home. No AC and having had this kind of rust. The reason its so expensive is its BUILT. And rest of truck is fine. Im just really leary of rust ... and this was not what I was expecting when I got the pics. He says he will take care of it ...... I just dont want issues in 1-2 years with bodywork from a half baked paint job that covers it all up. hmm - - - Updated - - - This panel below the door wouldnt be easy to replace though right ? Never had one off/apart ........

So the other problem with same truck (see other thread on rust) ....... is there is NO AC. Its was removed for larger twins/intercooler.So two questions here.1) I assume all I need to hook back up is compressor, condensor, ac radiator at front and lines. Basically just hook all back up ? And then charge and look for leaks.2) As its a closed system. What are the chances that the AC heater core is all rusted and Im going to be pulling the DASH and doing a new heater core etc.

Found a truck I want based on its performance modifications ....... but when we get some more photos I was a bit shocked to see the amount of rust (not a cheap truck with the mods). Would this scare you from buying ? I wouldnt normally even consider it - but the owner seems straight up for getting it resprayed and taken care of for $1200 (full truck spray). Just wonder what kind of job its going to be and if Im going to see more rust and bubble issues later ... - - - Updated - - - pic Theres other bad spots like the doors - hes going to replace one of them...... the part with above is it looks bad enough to me that they would have to cut it out and basically put a huge bondo job ........

http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-performance-parts-discussion/534021-stronger-pull-trans-cable-without-limited-throw.html "Tightning the TV cable does nothing more than increase your trans pressure so that the trans governor needs more shaft RPM to overcome the increased pressure.Adjust it too tight & it won't want to shift & it will downshift too early"

http://dodgeram.org/tech/transmission/automatic/TPS_adjust.htm I think the 1-2 2-3 shift points are controlled by the vehicle speed and throttle position via throttle valve (TV cable). Overdrive and lock-up are controlled electronically via TPS.

http://www.dieselpowermag.com/tech/dodge/0711dp_aurora_2000_turbo/viewall.html RV275 -> + 100 HP STICKS = ats2000/ats3000/ super B (s300) /he351 - anything in the 57-60 mm compressor over 100 - 150 look at a 62 mm compressor larger than 150 look at a 63/64 mm compressor or twins Turbine side - depends on spool up and EGT ...... go smaller generally .....

Absolutely I can pull most normal grades in OD ..... on a large grade .... not in OD ..... I can pretty much take it 55-60mph and be nowhere near downshiting, power on foot, and around 900-1000 EGT. around 12000 lbs I dont think twins are required ..... think you can do it without ...... but if you never want to worry about EGT again ..... no matter how you change the truck ..... then only twins ...... main reason for me ... got tired of chasing it ...

eh ? where did you hear all this .... its a cummins not a ford ... hahahha Using your stock hx35 over a s472 (or ht3b if you want to save a cple $$) ..... your looking at $1900. And your time. Thats it. Now its recommended you have headstuds and a good tranny - but thats generally for larger than stock fueling. Id do the headstuds anyway - adds $400 - so you can get a NEW twin setup for $2300 using your stock hx35 as a primary and studs. I personally think its the best way to have eveything for power and EGT control. however .... its still a bit of $$ ...... no reason a he351cw on stock sticks shouldn't work for you .... or a used turbo for under $1k ... and just tune it all in

Are you guys talking about the washers for height seating ??? Not following ... Never heard if the washers being used for pop pressure ..., only for injection angle based off height of seating position .... Or are you talking within the injector body

CPP used to have some not on his website .... Call Jacob also he can about source anything reasonable

The timing makes sense .... I think the biggest increase here would be less downshifting ... but EGT's would still be a problem since hes already going down to 3rd gear ...... not enough timing in the world to fix that Yes the VGT would be a good option. My EGT dropped significantly simply from going from a HX35 to a he351cw ... around 100-150 degrees. A SuperB would probably have a similar effect .... more CFM and a larger exhaust turbine ..... a hybrid 35/40 is a good option also .... If it was me ... Id twin it and be done ........ or do a turbo upgrade with a mild port job. TURBO SPECS Super B single: 57/65/14 HX35 8-blade: A/R- 0.89 Compressor inducer- 56mm Compressor exducer- 83mm Compressor trim- 46 Turbine inducer- 69.5mm Turbine exducer- 60mm Turbine trim- 75 HX35 7-blade: A/R- 0.89 Compressor inducer- 56mm Compressor exducer- 76mm Compressor trim- 54 Turbine inducer- 69.5mm Turbine exducer- 60mm Turbine trim- 75 HY35: A/R- 0.65 Compressor inducer- 56mm Compressor exducer- 76mm Compressor trim- 54 Turbine inducer- 65mm Turbine exducer- 58mm Turbine trim- 80 HE351: A/R- 0.65 Compressor inducer- 60mm Compressor exducer- 84.582mm Compressor trim- 54 Turbine inducer- 65mm Turbine exducer- 58mm Turbine trim- 80 http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/dev/he351-vs-hx35-t263640.html Different sizings , different wheels make a big difference on air flow .... and EGT ....... Consider the HX35 at 56 compressor and the HE351 at 60 .... (or a hybrid) .... flows much more air with the bigger compressor and spools quicker in both cases as it has either the same exh housing or smaller You can move to he351c for a couple hundred $$ after you sell the HX35. A hybrid a little more expensive. All of this on stock fuel .....

Just an opinion. Very hard to dial in correctly .... Injects too much or too little .... Plus it uses a heck of a lot if methanol and its not cheap.... To me it's only good for dyno or racing short bursts. Once I went twins I never have to worry or fiddle anymore ..... Porting would do similar

Propane is good of this ... Never run it .... There are some kits on eBay ..,. Not hugely expensive and its basically a DOT approved tank in bed with line feeds and solenoids to inject similar to methanol just different hardware... Someone e on this forum runs it.... And likes it

As cheap as $3k if your not doing billet shafts. Ryan 98whitelightening just did this swap ... He'll see this and jump in. Nv4500, nv5600 or g56 are all options .... Heck even an Allison with the conversion plate and harness etc

I've run 2 of them ... I'd say stay away. Twins if budget affords it never worry again ...,Else bigger turbo or a ported head.

Jacob - diesel auto power

Need to try and track down source of clicking ..... Time to start climbing around

Doesn't it fool through the map tho ? Like intercept the signal .... Probably a loose connection

Haha .... No the wife just got a new mazda mx5 not too long ago so really I'm looking to trade into something with only a few thousand switching hands ..... I need to go take one or two for a spin and work out how much better the ride quality is...., have ridden in an 05 before was very nice ..... Just hate to get into one and have to do anything major - tranny, engine issues, injectors etc