JOHNFAK

Good stuff. AH64ID is good with this stuff wait for him to jump in. I have my drive pressure guage sitting in the cupboard for months now .... Need to get it on and see where I am at ... Interested in your results

That JGS particulate filter is pretty expensive ...., how often do you need to clean it ...., and are there other options that you know of ?

What's it like ?

Well pulled the plug on a advanced auto radiator .... $120 with Father's Day discount ..... Limited lifetime warranty Need to check my leak source properly before I tear it off but likely ill just switch out and not worry about it. I'll update after I'm done with feedback on fitment and quality.

Yeah thats kinda what has me worried. How long it will last and also fitment. But heck at that price its hardly worth the hassle of patching ...... and if I had to change it out a little more often ...... not as big a deal ..... Some have a lifetime warranty for $175

Have a small pin leak in my radiator. Not a fan of epoxy fixes for that ....... and to pull and get to radiator shop is probably $80. Online I can get one shipped for $160. Anyone heard of these brands tho ? CSF and PRORAD - autopartswarehouse VISTA PRO - rockauto APDI - autopartsgeek READYRAD - advanced auto parts in fact I can get his one shipped to my door for $115 ToughOne or Ready-Rad Radiator Part No: 431335 Warranty: LIMITED LIFETIME REPLACEMENT http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_radiator-toughone-or-ready-rad_19920040-p [TABLE] [TR] [TD]Core Height:[/TD] [TD]19 3/8 in[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]Core Thickness:[/TD] [TD]1 1/4 in[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]Core Width:[/TD] [TD]31 5/8 in[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]Fan Included:[/TD] [TD]No[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]Inlet Location:[/TD] [TD]Top Left[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]Inlet Size(s):[/TD] [TD]1 1/2 in[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]Outlet Location:[/TD] [TD]Bottom Right[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]Outlet Size(s):[/TD] [TD]1 3/4 in[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]Row Quantity:[/TD] [TD]1[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]Transmission Cooler:[/TD] [TD]Yes[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]Tube Size:[/TD] [TD]1 1/4 [/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE]

Work on a truck frame ?

Dare I say it ....almost makes me want a ford . Nice truck

:)Yeah I didn't think it through - just went at it !! Not the first time and probably won't be the last ...When the neighbor loaned me his big commercial drill I was too giddy and just started full speed !!!Live and learn Still sore tho ?

Those are some stacks !!!

It's Aaaaaaaaalllliivve !!!!!!!I'm not going to lie I might be a little jealous

Thanks guys Yeah I'm going to take the advice and pass on the welding and attempt again with a drill that has the chuck control even if its cordless and takes me forever ..., Maybe tack weld if I need later for same issue with the design of the bracket on the curve if the frame with long bars ... Good stuff

around 260 bar instead of 290-310 I think. But lots of guys run vp44 pop pressure .......... thought ryan was going to start there and decide ...... but unsure .....

Sooooo nice ..... Take a video of 1st crank !!!

3/4" is what comes in the kit -CPPI might give it another go at slower speed and see if I can get the chuck to give way at a certain torque .... My neighbor has a 90 degree Hilti Think I was going too fast .... But now I've been out if action 3 days bit wAry

Do the he351cw ..,,, twin it later !!! Hahahaha At least it's cheap and good to 450-500 hp

Im ringing around trying to find a shop to "drill" the holes for me. Im a bit gunshy now after my 1st one. Basically I was drilling at full speed on a large torque drill at 3/4" ...... after pilot was done ...... it bit down as it punched through and about tore my hand off ........seems to be getting better but was unable to even pick up a TV remote the next day ..... ........ thinking Id rather spend the $60 to have someone do it for me than go through that again ..... I was just thinking about a welder as from time to time it would come handy ..... and if its only an extra $60 then maybe I could swing it .... but think Im going to pout that idea aside as well based on ^^^^ thx guys

Some more from CF also .... DDP Formula 1 (F1) Industrail injection Schied Farm boys diesel Coaltrain (not being made at this point as far as i know) Smokem/Southern Diesel extreme Injector Parts Edge Jammers (no longer made) Fireball Pro Monster Mikes Now to list what each Brand produces and the HP rating THEY give them. Info was taken directly from websites when available. DDP 50hp, 75hp, 100hp, 110hp, 125hp, 150hp, 200hp, 250hp "competion" and 300hp "competion" (most are 7 hole nozzles but they do offer a 200hp injectors with 8 holes) Formula 1 (uses a 7 hole nozzle) Mach 1 = 65hp Mach 1.6 = 90hp Mach 2 = 105hp Mach 3 = 130hp Mach 4 = 150hp Mach 5 = 200hp Mach 6 = 220hp Mach 7 = 240hp Mach 8 = ~270hp when used with nitrous, 230hp on fuel Industrial injection Dragon Fly = 100hp (7 hole?) Dragon Flow = 150hp (10 hole) Super Dragon Flow = 200+hp (11 hole) Schied Lightning 1 = 100hp (6 hole?) Lightning 2 = 150hp (6 x .012) Lightning 3 = ~250hp (6 x .016) Lightning 4 = 300hp+ (6 x .018) FBD 50hp, 100hp, 150hp, 200hp, 220hp and 240hp (7 hole standard and custom 6 hole injectors available) Coaltrain 50hp, 100hp, 150hp, 200hp, 240hp and maybe some customs in between ( all 7 hole that i know of) Smokem/Southern Diesel Extreme Smokem 100hp (7x .0085) Smokem 125hp (7x .010 310BAR) Smokem 150hp (7x .010 (.010 lift and stroke) 310BAR) Smokem 200hp (7x .012 310 BAR) Smokem 240hp (7x .012 (.010 lift and stroke) 310BAR) Smokem 250hp+ (7x14 and up custom order, these are comp only injector) Injector parts 200hp, 250hp, 300hp, and 350hp. (made by the same people that made jammer nozzles, 8 holes) Edge Jammers Jammer 1 = 50hp Jammer 2 = 75hp Jammer 3 = 100hp Jammer 4 = 125hp Jammer 5 = 150 hp (all 8 hole) Fireball Pro 50hp, 75hp, 100hp, 150hp, 200hp (? hole, couldnt find much info on them) Monster Mikes 200hp (6 x .013) 250hp+ (7 x .015) The link mike was talking about ..... is this one .... http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/94-98-performance/436681-injector-breakdown.html

Yeah there are betetr options than the 3000 for the money. Like ryan said - ARP or H1 really ...... I run ARP. H1 possibly better. Its a bit of a "debated" topic. Really after 35 psi should consider headstuds ...... but people have run stock bolts ober 50 psi no problems. Its just a $$ and a tiem thing if you blow a gasket. Replace 1x1 in correct fashion, no drilling or tapping ........ pretty easy but you will want a BIG and accurate torge wrench. Teh smaller the wrench the harder it will be.

Well ...... I would except I just came back from the ER after a heavy torque drill stopped all of a sudden whilst drilling frame ....... wasnt fun (they are bolt on) yes I was drilling at too fast speed - - - Updated - - - dont think I could handle another promise to get out there only to "F"ail :banghead:

If I was goign to weld traction bar brackets to the frame of truck ....... what size would I need to have enough juice ..... thats thick metal !! http://www.harborfreight.com/80-amp-inverter-arc-welder-91110.html

One in the general section CF. you working on it this weekend ? Must be nearly done ?with pump and cam In ... ?

Basically call stainless diesel they will set you straight. 63 is the compressor side 68 is the exducer/exhaust side The bigger the number the more air but also more lag. It's needs to be balanced to the trucks fuel to prevent egt issues

Good turbo but it's non gated I think ... I'd look into a 62 or 63 mm from stainless diesel with a ~68 turbine

Best two things to see ... Me and Ryan. Beaches , kayaks , fishing