JOHNFAK

lmao - I guess I should have reworded the title of the thread. Not going to be adding any leaf packs or replacing - I actually am adding traction bars and have to remove the rear shock and rear ubolt shackle. Since I havent done that before that got me thinking - how are the rear springs/leafs placed under tension. Was worried if I remove the ubolt and the shock the whole thing would go bananas - but obviously also figured out that my conception of how this works is wrong. So simply a thread for replacing a leaf seemed the best way to get an understanding here........ so how does it work ? When does the tension get applied to the leaf pack and when do you need to be careful when playing back here .....

Actually not planning to add a leaf. But was curious what was involved.Essentially the leafs are under load - so if you jack the track up ....... remove the shock bushing and shock ... and then remove the ubolts ...... what prevents all hell from braking loose ?

Curious.Whats involved with adding or replacing a leaf spring. :thumbup2:Never done it.

Actually not sure. Standard s472 - not sure it comes in a variety of housings/turbines unless its modfied aftermarket .. I went with a smaller combo for quicker spool hence the he351cw/s472. According to carl this will support up to a hotish 600HP ... I honestly cant see the point of a 62/s475 unless you already have the 62 or are planning on going over 600HP. Id probably sell the 62 at that stage and go with a hx35/s472 .... if your under 500HP. Thats me tho - I prefer spoolup over top end since I doubt I will get to 600HP.

Yes thx again I will say if you have a newer 2nd gen and your TRE on drag link are worn this is a good upgrade and replacement ... Probably took 80% of my steering slop away. Now track bar and traction bars

Think this was the real fix ^^^^ if I was to have done it - thx for help

2 hours in the alignment shop she's all tight a turning well. Got lifetime alignment so that's all squared away for future ...

Yeah I bought a 3 tonne from HF yesterday. Tried lifting by the pumpkin but only does 1 side at a time ... But a heck of a lot easier than a hand bottle jack. 4 pumps and she's up. Just storing that beast yikes .... That's why I originally went with the bottle

Yeah I pretty much did this last night - got the steering wheel straight but the pitman arm was off slightly. Now I lost 1/4 of my turnign cirlc to teh left - which I found out in a not so nice time. So I think I needed to go teh other way - but that when fully adjusted was only 90% straigh on teh steering wheel - so ... hmmm Will see how the steering alignment goes ...... firestone do a $150 for LIFE alignemnt deal ..... not my favourite place to have these things done - but at least I can take it back as many times as required and to multiple shops if Im not near my normal one.

yes ......

Think the track width and frame wifth must be the same as this is supposedly a direct bolt on replacement with no adjustment needed. Something happened on my install though to result in the steering 180 around. Problem is I adjusted it last night and got the steering back upright but lost 1/4 turn radius on the left ..... so I have a 10am appointment for an alignment .......... :banghead:

I mean .... I can adjust it so steering is center but pitman arm is angled .... Nit straight .... pic here .... Steering wheel centered

Can't work this out .... Can't see how you adjust from bottom and that adjustment sleeve is fully loose

Looks like Im going to have to either get one of these or a good floor jack and play around with jack positioning.I basically need to be able to lift both wheels off ground in 1 go This stuff seems like the way to go - make life much easier - so thanks !Right now Im jacking it up directly to the drivers side of the diff joint to the axel ... then trying to squeeze a jackstand further to the wheel tucked in behind teh knucle - I always about 2 inches short - so I have to angle it in - then bring it down and let truck pull itself over and then I can get the bottle out ...pretty messsy, time consuming and a little dangerous ! :whistle:

In tight on the drivers side right ? But that lifts one side up only ............. at least I thought it did

So trying to be cost effective this would work also right ? 12 ton should be overkill still http://www.harborfreight.com/12-ton-air-hydraulic-bottle-jack-94487.html but 2 questions 1) Does it fit under the diff - thinking a bottle jack wont 2) When lifting from this point - is it balanced such that both tires lift together off ground to get stands in place ? thx

Not sure what that is .... guessing one of these under the diff casting would work ...... http://www.harborfreight.com/automotive-motorcycle/floor-jacks/floor-jack-with-rapid-pump-4-ton-heavy-duty-steel-68056.html Assume it brings both wheels off ground fairly evenly ....... enough to then get a stand on each side ......

When you say adjust it (after loosenign) - you mean from teh sterring wheel - or from below ? ok - will plan to get to alignemnt shop as soon as I can then thx for heads up.

So - I have a 10 ton bottle jack and some oversized jackstands.Problem is when I jack up the truck on teh drivers side - due to limited space between tire and front diff .... I cant get bottle jack AND jackstand in there together easily ........its a bit of a drama each time.So what do you guys do and how ??Was thinking of buying a proper jack and jacking teh drivers side up directly by the bottom of the front diff .......lets here/see pics

Correct - but I was plannign on takign to shop for alignment after I get the 3rd Gen track bar in place. eg in around 1 week. Was wanting to fix this tonight. Assume you mean this .... the adjusting sleeve on top right .... loosen this and adjust steering??? http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/ii160/shcermak/FrontEnddiagramwithpartnumbers.jpg

How ? Theres some not in the steering column right ? Wasnt sure tho .... Was planning on redoing whole thing ........ not sure how it happened exactly as I think teh pitman arm can only really go one direction right ? hmmm

Damn steering wheel is upside down not sure how that happened going to have to redo doh

Any of the big builders would do well. Goerand revmax ats dtt .Some smaller but equally if not better include firepunk, tre diesel and garmon. Make sure you go billet input with a 3x disk or drop your lockup pressure for smoother lockup. I'd do garmon probably but whichever was physically closest to you. .

Hi John No didn't know this so thanks. So far I like it ... Feels firmer and smooth on my turns and steering .... But you saw the condition of my TRE etc.... It's about $300 shipped. There is a writeup on CF about it .... It's a sone swap really around 3-4 bolts and a bit of persuasion via hammer and pickle fork. Worth it I think unless you go aftermarket.

This is part 1...... Next being adjustable track bar and traction bars both already on order. Before After Already did the 3rd gen brakes too.