Dynamic

At the pressure your transmission would be operating at during those 2 shifts (boost valve off), a .106 orifice would be OK for the 1-2, but would be a bit light for the 2-3. You can certainly go bigger if you want to quicken it. You can turn up the PR spring if you want, but that's going to increase everything across the board - all shifts. Same with the TV adjustment - it will affect all shifts. Having said that, I like to see a 24-valve shift at closer to 2900 or 3000 rpm at WOT, so I would tighten yours until it does. This will firm up your shifts a bit across the board.

One of the things I highly recommend NOT doing if you are installing a Transgo kit is grind the angle on the switch valve. It removes the ability of the switch valve to regulate converter charge pressure. The switch valve actually performs a dual purpose. It hydraulically commands the converter clutch to lockup when it fully strokes, but it also regulates converter charge pressure when running unlocked. An unmodified switch valve and spring will regulate charge pressure at about 130 psi. Some builders think that it's a good thing to allow full line pressure to charge the converter. (I do not fall into this group.) In forward gears, this is not as big of a deal as line pressure even with a well calibrated street valve body will likely be in the 185-190 psi range at the top end; only 50 or 60 psi above where it would be with the switch valve intact. Not exactly the end of the world... But where you run into trouble is in reverse, where line pressure can top 300 psi in certain instances. This is a recipe for ballooning converters and killing thrust bearings.

Running these tuners is one of the biggest reasons to run a triple disc converter and a custom valve body. They fuel the engine much harder for a given amount of throttle movement than the stock tuning, which is what causes the engine to produce more power. The problem is that there is ZERO electronic control of transmission line pressure in a 47RE or 48RE. Line pressure rise is 100% dependent upon throttle (and subsequently TV cable) movement. These transmissions suffer from a severe lack of line pressure in stock form, and then when you take away 30%, 40%, maybe even 50% of its TV cable travel for a given amount of power output from the engine, things don't exactly improve. You simply need a LOT more line pressure, and a LOT more converter clutch (among other internal mods) to make things happy and reliable when adding power. "Shift kits" improve things a little bit by adding SOME additional pressure to the mix, but it takes more than just a stiffer PR spring to give you the pressure that you need at the point in the throttle travel at which you need it...and that doesn't even touch on the topic of shift and lockup calibrations... When I had my Dodge (2000 QCSB 4x4), I was running a Smarty S-03 and BD 100hp injectors, and someone had put an HX35 turbo on it. It ran well, but desperately needed a larger turbo. I constantly had to back out of it to keep the turbo from going WAY off of its efficiency map. It would produce 38-40 psi of boost if I let it, that's a serious number with an HX35 on a 5.9L engine. I was constantly fighting EGT's with that thing. If I were to ever own another Dodge, I would run compounds and get the best of both worlds.

If you're running a single disc converter (stock or otherwise), I would stick with ATF+4. You need the friction modifiers that it contains to keep your converter clutch from chattering. Otherwise, with a triple disc converter, which is the only setup I use and recommend, I typically run Dexron III with Lubegard "Black" ATF additive (one 10 oz bottle to a 20 qt system). I saw that someone recommended Ford Type F. I would definitely NOT recommend running that in a 47/48RE... An initial service should be performed at 1500 miles after any major transmission work; ie. new converter, fresh rebuild, etc. This will get rid of the break-in debris that collects in the filter. After that, I recommend servicing every 25-30K miles under normal usage, and once a year if towing heavy with the truck.

Does it stall in both forward and reverse?

Did you reset the TV stop after you backed it out? What did you set it at? I also would definitely not be running the fluid any higher than what is indicated in the dipstick...just FWIW.

The front line is the "OUT" line going to the coolers. Putting a sender there will give you the highest and most active readings due to the fact that the fluid is coming straight out of the converter and off to the coolers. You will see some pretty high temperatures here as you work that converter. This information is not as useful to me as it is basically just an indicator of how hard you're working the converter. The best place for the sender is in the pan. This will give you an indication of the net result of all of your systems; converter, coolers, gear train, etc.

I'll keep you posted...

Your valve body showed up safe and sound today!

For a "no forward" condition, yes, I would pull the transmission.

Your truck does not have a Tow/Haul mode, only an OD cancel button. Those switches in the shift lever go out all of the time. That's the first place I'd look. While pressure testing is never a bad idea, I'm not sure it's going to tell you much in this case. When the failed component is on the other side of an orifice from the pressure source, you'll often see normal (or close to it) line pressure at a test port, while there's no pressure at the component.

You'll want to check and see what you actually have in there. "Billet" seems to mean something different to everyone, especially someone trying to sell a truck. LOL...

Yeah, abuse would be my first suspicion. It really all depends upon what you have in there now. If you don't have a triple disc converter with a (roughly) stock stall speed with that turbo (I'd recommend a Goerend 17SS or DPC's equivalent), and a valve body calibrated to match it, then yes, I would put them in there. That's what's going to work best with that particular setup. You'll also want to make sure you are running a billet input shaft at that power level.

The stock system will more than keep up with a moderate setup like that. I don't think that was your issue...

I don't recommend removing the heat exchanger from the system. It's in there for a reason, and it works very well for what it was designed for. What is wrong with the stock cooler? Why do you feel that it caused the transmission to fail? That is one of Lavon's pretty basic kits, using basically stock frictions, but it does look like he's got a TCS combo kit in there. I only use Raybestos GPZ frictions and a Raybestos Pro Series band in my kits. There are also no roller clutches, OD bearings, snap rings, L/R piston, stuff like that in that kit from Lavon. I'm not sure how thorough of a build you're wanting to perform, but that kit looks to intentionally be pretty basic.

Honestly, it doesn't matter how new anything is if it's not built well, especially the torque converter. If you want to build something that you're not going to break or burn up, and that's going to perform well, then I can help you. If you're just going to try to patch it back together, I just don't recommend it.

A transmission build is a complete package; from clutches to valve body, and everything in between. If you're asking it to do more than it was designed to do, you're going to have to build and upgrade everything accordingly. There are better clutches and intermediate band that can be used (which I do recommend), but most of the magic that will improve performance and longevity are in the valve body and torque converter. (Just as a FWIW, I'm not a big fan of kolene steels.) As far as going straight to it "needing a complete rebuild", no shop (mine included) is going to go through the trouble of pulling the transmission out of the truck, and then patching it back together. If your forward clutch failed, other parts aren't far behind. Plus, in the case of the 47RE, there are SO MANY things that can and should be upgraded, it makes even less sense to patch it, and it's certainly nothing that I'd be willing to stand behind.

It's likely that you have a failed forward clutch. That would be the most common failure causing a "no forward gears" situation. There's no quick, cheap, easy way to fix that one. It will have to come apart...

When I put 7 gallons of gas in my Dodge, I just filled it the rest of the way with diesel and drove it. I ran 2-stroke oil in that thing anyway, so no harm, no foul. It was just a little noisy (a noisy 24 valve...imagine that!), and down on power a bit. Back in the day when I went through all of Bosch's diesel (and gas) training courses, Bosch recognized up to 25% gasoline in the fuel to help them start in cold climates.

I hear ya on the putting gas in the diesel tank. When I had my Dodge, I one time put 7 gallons of regular unleaded in it. Oops...

Shipping address is: Dynamic Transmission 8311 N. Glenarvon Ln. Newman Lake, WA 99025 Yessir... We take credit cards over the phone.

You can send it however works best for you. I typically use USPS flat rate, but whichever one is easiest.

You can run some line pressure tests if you want, but I don't really need that information. I'll be changing that around anyway. I don't need the solenoids. I always replace them with a custom valve body, but if they're serviceable and of good quality, you can reuse them at your discretion. There is no need to open the governor pressure solenoid passages. This is one of the many fallacies you can read about online.

You can send your valve body any time and I can do through it. I can give you lockup in any forward gear, no problem. Your stalling issue does not sound like a valve body problem to me, but I can take a look.

I remember talking to you quite some time ago. What were you wanting to have changed?