cbrew

the only time my scan gauge will pull a code is when i lost my VP last year. that is the head scratchier

yes but what is the source of this noise, if you revisit the data in the threat, i have cut the alternator out and the problem persisted. the cleaning is required every 6 months and if the clamp is not seated right afterwards, it will loosen up and that requires rework

understood, as explained above, this is want ended up addressing the issue (so far),,,

I see you have Washington set as location, where abouts? I have am 47re that may need attn soon. and have been looking for a shop that knows what they are does and not just throwing parts at something that is not needed. she still shift good, and pulls like a maul when needed. i would like to fine tune the shift patterns and TC lockup parameters. I am still kicking around the idea of just converting to manual tho.

no you have summed it up, i am just looking for ideas that would cause these symptoms 1) noise (must likely cause because of the finding with the clamps) and maybe the only solution is to police the clamps closer 2) voltage jumps. (not sure on this one, it would need more testing) Now i wonder how likely it is for the Apps to loose calibration over time. and the real solution was not cleaning the clamps but recalibrating the APPS after wards. i can test this the next time the issue presents its self by resetting the ECM and recalibrating the apps with out touching the clamps, IIRC there is a fuse i can pull that will reset the ECM, any one know if this is fact?

I can see that being a symptom, and would fall in line with my latest result set. but not the cause, i guess i need to study the schematics. I do know its repeatable, and when it shows up, i either find dirty battery clamps (every 6 to 8 months) or a loose clamp. its not the brake switch, i would see that in the brake controller staring at my keep them coming.. I have a feeling this is going to drive me to a manual conversion LOL

Good Morning all, well it seems like every 6 months or so this issue returns, i just slayed that dragon last night and its really getting old. my battery clamps are not going to take much more of this before needing to replace them so here is the low down on the recent findings, the Ground on the primary battery has the acid build up, the other three did not. the problem was only presenting itself at speed between 40 and 50 (in the past, this would happen at any speed above 40mph in OD) i have a switch that i can use to kill my alternator (story for another time) so i killed it thinking it could be related to the alternator and the heat we been having. nope issue was still present, i know the alternator shutdown cause the voltage dropped to 12.8 volts so what i did to fix the issue, 1) I cleaned the drity post, test drive, same issue. 2) cleaned the other three, in turn resetting the ECM etc. calibrated the apps, issue was gone so with the alternator out of the system, what would else would be back feeding noise into the system. i have concluded that cleaning the posts promote a clean power source, and reason the problem goes away. blame it on the engineering side of me, i want to find the cause. I know some have seen results with adding the filter, and i may end up breaking down and installing one, but something has to be behind this issue.. Thoughts? Thanks.

I run Amsoil through out including the amsoil 2 cycle oil in the fuel and i can now hear a new diesel idling next to me at the light. quieted way down.

in my county, the owner of the truck is at the controls during the snap test, so i just learned to rolling in the throttle, that short delay seemed to make all the difference with passing the snap test with my old 12v.

that would be great! question tho, other then the Dunrite VB, does your trans have any other upgrades. what i understand, the main reason shifting while lock is not suggested is the stock input shaft does not like the added stress. but that does not mean it can not handle normal light load with out issue,. my ole girl has ~150k on the clock, even tho then i installed the mag-hytec pan, all i found was normal wear of soft materiel. the fluid was nice and had a normal smell, so i installed the pan, added fresh syn fluid and all it well. i have no clue about the back ground of the trans. but being as clean as it was i can not believe its the factory trans. now with a truck having a 5th wheel hitch from a PO. the auto is still a black box for me, so i am very cautious what mods i throw at it, shes my DD and the last think i want to do is break her. i live in the five corners area, PM me how close you are to that area. Thanks again TTYL

I could be, but i am trying to understand the real need to defeat the relay and you may have answered one question, but the reason i am asking about the parameters that this relay latches and unlatches may do away with the need to worry about forgetting the switch, but that is that big of a deal. i manually what this feature for the exhaust brake, and it would be nice to have the TC stay locked with on the grades and need to let off for any reason. I am still on the fence tho, keep the info coming

do you happen to know the conditions when the relay is latched? what i am getting out, if the "Computer" unlatches this relay when conditions are out side of a safe range (speed vs rpm, etc) after all, there is a reason there are two methods of controlling the TC.

question, what is the reason for defeating the trans relay? i have yet to find the answer

well the surgery is complete,. i have to say, i am very impressed with how clean the trans is, its very likely its not the original trans with ~150k on the clock, way too clean. I also installed the A pillar pod i picked up from vulcan, not real happy with the lack of mounting tabs. I need to figure that out

Ah ok. Thats figured out. the sending unit is going into the mag hytec and the gauge itself is replacing the little pocket in the dash by the radio. Witing is just about done.

Whys that?

ok, i will look around real good, also thinking of pulling the dust shield for the TC and just taking a peak, if its stock then the trans is mostly stock..

the mag hytec that picked up from Genos garage came with the new filter. did not plan on more then that. the problem is i really have not idea what i have with this truck, she has a packbrake that was installed by a PO the funny thing is, its works just fine when in park idling on a cold morning, but it will not engage while deceling, which leads me to think there is a missing component like a (ATS co pilot) or something like it. I never took the time to dig in too dig. I would guess there is no way to tell if i had any thing more then a stock tranny is there? (with out tearing it down)

ok Thanks, this is the house brand i will be going with, http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/ORO0/ATF41/N0470.oap?ck=Search_chrysler+atf+3+%26+atf+4_1377569_3743&keyword=chrysler+atf%2B3+%26+atf%2B4

I figured that, but i hate to ASSUME the store brand is a buck cheaper so i should be fine. Thanks!

well the idea of keeping the AD was for priming and the continued use of the filter assembly, the factory fuel system is all but gone. so i will still need the filter assembly

Hi all, I will be dropping the pan on the my 47re tonight to install the Mag-Hytec pan and isspro sending unit, I have not found much info on proper replacement fluid. I am looking to use the valveoline ATF+4, any issues with that pick? Thanks BTW no idea what i am going to find but i have no issues with the trans so i am not expecting to see much Brew

question for the class, i currently have an AD2 165 and so far i have had little issue with it, the current issue i have seems to be around the regulator. it seems to have a pretty wide swing from idle to WOT (about 5 psi) very repeatable so i know its not the pump its self. I just wish the regulator has a tighter res. anyways, my question, I was looking at the fuel boss, and since i already have the .5inch line kits from my AD2165. can the fuel boss just piped in series? IIRC the AD does have a check valve that is surposed to allow bypass if the pump was to fail.

oh i agree completely, my current VP is only 6 to 7 months old. original lasted 148k i personally hope the truck falls apart before i have to replace the VP again

you know, this is probably the best reason to install a well tuned p7100 on the truck..