notlimah

Could you send a link to what you're using?

Ok, I'm wondering then if my bolt that holds the track bar on the axle side could be worn a bit because the track bar has less then 5000 miles on it so I'd be hard pressed to believe the heim is worn already. On the frame side it uses a johnny joint. Also, should I jack the truck up before turning the wheel? Or does the weight need to be on the components to expose the thud?

Are overloads on the top or bottom of the normal leaf spring 'packet?' I have DORs track bar, so I can't imagine that's loose at all but I'll get under there and tighten things up to see if that helps at all. Only reason I thought control arms is because of when the noise happens it's right as I'm moving over a bump or something in a forward/backward direction, not left to right which would affect my track bar. As far as bilsteins, I planned on getting the 5100s that are specifically valved for the 2500/3500 trucks so hopefully that will help with longevity. The leveling coils would be for up front by Thuren which I'd couple with the bilsteins. Only reason I'm thinking keeping the the leveling up front is because I still have 315s. Ideally I'd like to go down to at least 285s because then I could take out the 2in level spacer and run stock. The truck did sit level with the WD hitch so things were fine there, but I still would prefer to either get rid of the front leveling spacer or run a proper leveling kit up front. According to DORs website, they say you don't loose any weight carrying capability, but like you said, I don't know everything about them yet, so I'm still leary on going that route. At least, I plan on Bilsteins front/rear and if I can swing it, getting rid of my front 2in spacer OR at least swapping that out with a 1in spacer if I need the room to clear the big 315s.

Any warranty issues with putting the AFM delete on? Only curious as this is the one vehicle I don't mess with at all. I take it to the dealership only and let them do work. I don't want to run into any major issues though.

Mainly suspension type stuff. I have a clunk in my front end somewhere that I THINK is my control arm bushings, so getting those swapped out. Also want to look at getting leveling coils and bilsteins valved for the trucks front and rear and lastly a shackle flip, but I'm not 100% sure how that really affects towing capacity. Either way, the truck did fine as is, but it could be better I think. The truck sat pretty level, but that was with a weight distribution hitch. Had I towed without it, there would've been some serious rake.

I liked the emphasis on "put in over 20k into this truck in the last year" as if that's going to add 20k to his asking price and based on his "never modified" claim, I don't know where all that money went! haha

Exactly what I thought!

Are the oil catch can and afm delete mod strictly a 16 thing?

Well had a good trip this last week. Went to to Lynden, WA for the Puget Sound Antique Tractor Show. Mitch was the first real test in towing I've put the truck through and she did great. No complaints! Had a nice little campsite setup and of course, antique tractors! Had a really great time! Definitely had a fun time pulling with the truck but it's shed light on somethings I want to get done before towing again.

I'm not entirely sure of the color as I've never done injectors or had mine out but from what I've read it made it seem pretty straight forward like "the O-rings on the injectors could cause fuel leaking back." Maybe I'm remembering it wrong but that's what I remember made sense to me.

Good to hear man! I have DORs track bar, steering box brace and obviously this steering upgrade and my steering is almost without any play. Just towed 5000lb travel trailer this week and could easily drive with one hand. I'm sorta thinking this clunking I'm hearing is from my control arm bushings being shot. I'm not entirely sure but I think it'll at least be worth replacing to see if that gets rid of the problem.

Well I haven't changed crossover tubes o-rings, or injector o-rings, both which can cause leaking of fuel back through the return lines and making the hard starts. For now what's seemed to work for me is to start the truck right after the initial lift pump prime and it lights right off. Could just be coo insistence though.

Sounds almost identical to what mine will do.

@jigdog Did you ever get this issue fixed? I had mine fixed for almost a month and then it all of the sudden came back.

That was pretty good! hahah He has a pretty nice shop!

Thanks @BBHD at least that confirms what I originally thought, that's its pointless keeping it. Just threw me off seeing it go right into that plug under the fender well! Makes ya think twice! Well my startup issue is now down to about 5-6hrs of sitting nose uphill in my driveway and I'll have the longer cranking. The hardest part for me to wrap my head around is how suddenly it came back. It went from starting fine no matter how long it sat uphill or downhill to overnight going right back to how it was. Doesn't seem to be an over pressure issue as I pull power to the FASS and it still took longer to start. That makes me feel like it's either something electrical, or maybe my overflow valve being sticky or something? Could it be an APPS on its way out? Cam position sensor? Of course there's still the chance it's either the crossover tube O-rings or injector O-rings so that's still on the agenda, just don't have time to get either of those taken care of. So for now I'll just have to deal with it being how it is. Park on level ground or maybe just carry a 19mm with me incase I need to crack injector lines to get it to start. Unless someone has any crazy ideas of what could be going on, this is where I'm at with this for now.

OK sorry let me try and explain more clearly. The FASS harness that's shown here Is connected down by the old carter pump location into two prong harness in that area. I assume to the ECM? The other end of the FASS harness goes straight back to the lift pump itself. Other then power, it's not attached to anything else. This picture is what I think was connected into the old stock lift pump harness down by the old carter location (currently being used by the FASS harness now) but it's been a while since the install I can't entirely remember if that's the case or not. The other end goes into the wire plug shown here and I'm pretty sure it's the set of wires on the bottom there that are sticking out in a completely different direction, but whatever wires they are, they're definitely connected into this plug.

No big deal. I pulled the plug that went directly into the fass today and tried starting and same thing as yesterday. Plugged it back in right after start and fuel pressure was back up to 16ish. I ended up stretching the sprig a bit and now pressures up to 20ish which is a little high so I'll take it out again and re-adjust. I think the ball in there was slightly scored so it might've effected it a bit. The plugs I was referring too were these. This ones the relay for the fass harness Heres the relay and plug for the stock setup. the other end is connected to this plug and then from there I'm not sure where it goes. Does this look normal?

I guess I was more curious what to do with the old harness? If it's just supposed to be stuffed aside then that's fine. That's how it is now, and the truck runs fine, but wondering if it still being plugged into the system is causing some weird stuff to happen. Ill grab pics, maybe that'll clear it up.

I assume you pulled it from the plug that's right by the where the stock carter lift pump would be right? That's where I pulled out the old harness and plugged in the new FASS harness, but the old harness was getting power from the forward circuit breaker box but like I mentioned, it goes right down to that huge connector under the fender well. Does that sound right? The only way I could completely disconnect it would be to clip the wires.

Is it better to just pull the inline fuse that's on the FASS harness or pull the fuse out of the fuse box by the drivers side battery? Also, looking back through some of my past videos I've posted on this, it seems that when it has the extended cranking, fuel pressure is always above 10psi. When firing right up it could be possible that the lift pump isn't pumping but why would it not happen for so long then happen all of the sudden? It also looks like my fuel pressure was 18ish and now I'm right around 16-17 not sure why, but I'm half tempted to open up the return line and check that spring and ball. What else could cause that in such a short time? Could filters get dirty that quick (not even 5k on them)? Was poking around under the hood and remembered when I installed the FASS I stuffed the old wire harness for the in tank lift pump just up under the fender. It had a relay and inline fuse and ran down to the big plug up under the drivers side front wheel well. Should that be plugged into anything? Is it effecting anything still being plugged in? Sorry for all the questions but this is really starting to get confusing.

I'll have to check that out tomorrow morning since this only happens on the first start up of the day, or after it's sat for quite a while. I think I may also have things wired weird the more I think of it. Going to have to check that out.

Well did it again and this time was a little worse then before. I took a video and I think I may be getting too much pressure on start up. Let me know what you guys think. Forgot to add, checked the obd and didn't have any codes.

I'll check the obd next start up but not cel was on. Rpm sensor would explain the sporadic-ness of this if the sensors slowly failing. But it doesn't make sense that it only happens on the first start up of the day

Hmmm, hopefully that's what's going on here. I wouldn't mind if it happened here and there. Just don't want to go back to chasing a leak again. I'm really starting to run out of easy fixes.