thedsmguy

So, today I jacked it up and took the tires off. I ran out of time to go get them checked for balance. I did however discover that on the pass side the lug studs were worn like the lug nuts had come loose at one point and the wheel and wobbled around and ruined the inside threads. The lug nuts were not loose. I'm not a fan of this style wheel with this style of centering, I'm not sure on the wording of it but is there anything I can do to maybe run other wheels or ? Tomorrow I'm going to likely just have a couple newer tires mounted up on the current wheels. Hopefully this helps with the vibration etc. I also found no play in the idler arm etc but there was a bit of slop in the shaft from the steering wheel to the box, what is the best way to tighten that up? Is that a box issue or a shaft issue?Thanks a TON!

Where to start.. Well, its been quite a while since I've been on this site, I'm happy to see its going well!Just purchased another cummins after missing my 98 after selling it a year or so ago.This is a 91 d250 2wd automatic.#1 After driving it for a couple hundred miles with wandering steering the truck suddenly started shaking as if I had a flat tire. Well, I do not. I suspect its likely in the front end. I jacked up the wheels and there is a small amount of play in the bearings but not enought that I think this is the source of the shaking.#2 Excessive blowby. Is there anything I can do to keep from smoking out the cars beside me at a stoplight? Or is the motor just to worn out?#3 Is it a 3 speed or Overdrive tranny? I'm only getting 3 gears. Is there a simple check to see which trans I have, The truck will do 55 on the freeway 60 is ok but over that is working it a little.#4 NONE of the gauges work, no speedo, odo, charge, fuel level, nothing. Any suggestions on why everything would be out?#5 Windshield wipers are only working on high mode. (I suspect a combo switch, but let me know if I'm wrong)Until I get these things figured out I'm not going to worry about much else, there are a handfull of smaller questions I have for the truck.Thanks a ton! Paul

My front crank seal leaks like crazy. I'm looking to replace it again and this time use the Timken part to fix the wear spots in the crank, Does anyone have any good stories about this or any other way to keep it from leaking? Thanks!

So, I went and bought a new flasher because I could not get mine to work (expensive square one). It works fine now with the truck off and can do my big trailers lights fine. BUT when the truck has its headlights on running or not, it simply buzzes loudly and cannot flash the lights, There is a little warpage of the place where the flasher plugs in I'm worried it has gotten very hot in the past to warp the plastic a little and I have no clue as to how to figure out whats wrong. I would assume a piss poor ground maybe?Thanks.

I've done this to my dually wheels. Looks great! I used a wheel specific paint but I've had to redo one simply because I didn't realize that there was a part of the wheel not dry when I first painted and it flaked off, this was all my fault and so far so good, you can (and I have in the past) get a gloss black and clearcoat if a few times and that holds up even better.

My truck is also very squeeky when going over bumps. I was using about 1/2 my weight and could push nose of truck up and down a few inches pretty easy, I think its just old shocks. I was just hoping to hear other people has similar symptoms.Thanks.

I have not nor do I want to pull the tranny to see if anything is wrong, could this be fairly normal with a stronger aftermarket clutch?

Calipers, rotors, ? Anything else? 17" wheels (which I have)Thanks.

My truck chatters upon launch at almost any rpm idle or not. I think it has a aftermarket clutch in it, is there anything else that you guys can think of that would cause this? I've been under the truck looking for loose items but cannot seem to find anything that is loose (driveline, rearend shackles etc.)Thanks.If you really really really hit the clutch just right at a idle you can get it to drive without chattering but thats it.. Its really annoying when pulling a big trailer.

My dually started having a weird vibration I think its from the front at 40mph or so mostly at a cruise or decell situation and not so noticeable if at all when I'm accelerating. Any ideas? Thanks.

Well, I paid $400 for the pump and the turbo. The CEL went off today and the truck drives great. I'm going to use the 7 blade hx35 as a upgrade on one of my turbo mitsubishi cars, they support about 450-500 hp on the 2.0 4g63 motors! Or, maybe I'll just sell it. Thanks for the replies!

I just did mine somewhere around 4hrs or so. I used my camera to take pictures of the keyway to tell if it was at 12 oclock or not since I did not have a mirror.. I used a $5.95 steering wheel puller on the gear you have to pull. Have fun!

Well, I found a "used" 70k mile pump and turbo combo for sale that seemed to be in great shape. Installed it last night (pretty easy really) and it runs great but still have a CEL, I'm going to have that checked today. What is my core worth to anyone?What is the 2 stroke diet?What is the turbo worth?Thanks.Paul

My trailer is a 18k trailer with electric brakes on 3 6-7k lb dexter axles.Thanks.

SO, newbie question, what is a Ppump and cost etc?

Ok, I have a 98.5 24v 5 speed gvrw of 10,500.00 and a 50' kaufman car hauler trailer, How do I know how much weight I can to with it? I plan on staying below 26000 lbs as its a heck of a lot harder to structure the business with that much weight plus I think its above what the truck can handle (possibly). I just worry that my truck is to small for this work but then again I see people toting cars around all the time in 1 ton dually diesels.. Do I have anything to worry about?Thanks.

Ok, So its dead from all I can tell. I want to buy a different one, should I buy a rebuilt bosch unit from my local supplier for $1150 or should I go with Jkidds are they the same pump? Should I go with the Blue Chip type X pump they suggest that it gets better gas mileage ( I tow a 3-4 car trailer and will be going a TON of miles ). I'm assuming that my truck will run better even better then it did prior to the pump dyeing due to wear etc. Is there any other options out there I'm not thinking of? I would also like to do a upgraded lift pump, maybe the fass system. I feel I'm on the right path, I'm just wondering if I should pay a little more to buy my pump from a local company that was rebuilt by bosh (unknown if its a new computer etc) or should I go with the fancy dancy one from Blue chip (known new components) or spend some time and save a buck by going with Jkidds? Thank you. Paul

no, it looks painted silver. I do not see your picture. ---------- Post added at 11:04 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:02 AM ---------- Now I see them. Thanks. I'll try to snap a picture of mine..

I'm such a newbie.. I'm tired of it. I had a old friend stop by today and point out that the bearings are fine they just "float" in there and when pressed up against the shaft they are just fine and have no wobble. Back to bad brakes I guess. And, the other side was physically broken as well. But, good news was I was chatting with him about the truck and possibly selling it etc. and he pointed out that he's pretty sure that the fuel system has been replaced as in a newer vp44 and lines/injectors as they all looked newer to him and the injector pump had been painted instead of being raw aluminum as well as fresh looking polyurethane fuel line mounts.Do you guys think he's right since the inj. pump has clean paint on it and the lines have poly mounts that the system has probably been replaced?Thanks.

Well, now that I have it apart, Its got the worse wheel bearings I've ever handled myself.. And It kills me that I never noticed while driving this beast. ugh. Anyone local to Vancouver Washington that can press some new ones in for me?

I'm not sure on the rating right now. So it sounds like I should be looking to do the KDP mod and should be able to adjust fuel/timing just like a regular truck.. Nice.Thanks.

I found a daycab 1995 Freightliner FL70 with a 5.9 12v cummins and a eaton 9 speed transmission. Can you guys list any reason I should/should not buy this compared to a Cat 3216 motor or was is 3126... The Cummins only has 120k miles on the truck as well! I'm going to be pulling a 50 foot car hauler 3-4 cars and a 28ft container, but mostly for the car hauler.Thanks.Oh, and do all the mods swap to this truck that the regular road trucks do?

Can anyone ID this rearend in my 98.5 dodge? Its supposed to be a drum brake but someone previous to me swapped this into the truck, I bought a 2002 caliper and its the same one and the rotor I bought looks similar to the inside 50% of this assembly, Do I need to pull my wheel bearings etc? Anyone in the Vancouver Washington area that can help? Thanks. Paul