leathermaneod

how does the pilot bearing spin the input shaft? is it normally supposed to stop it from spinning?

Thanks TFaoro, if going to fourth and then second works, is it still hurting the input shaft? Also, if that doesn't work is it still the pilot bearing? How long is too long? If it does hurt the input shaft what happens? Replace it? How hard/expensive is that? Don't really have money or time for this right now haha. One more thing, what exactly does the pilot bearing do? I mean I know the input shaft goes through it, but how does it cause this problem? Is there any chance this could be caused by cold weather? thanks again! One other thing, while dropping the trans what all should I do? So far I'm planning on clutch and hydraulics, pilot bearing, throw out bearing, rear main, drive shaft center support. Am I missing anything? Anything I should do to the trans itself? Sorry for all the questions. I don't know much about transmissions.

I honestly don't know for sure but I believe it's only a single and stock from a parts store. The PO told me the owner before him replaced it and that's what he thought it was. Weird thing is that it seems to have got worse just lately and suddenly, which makes me wonder if it's partly due to cold weather. I was concerned that it was syncronizers but from what I've been reading it sounds like it would grind if they were bad. Maybe it's just a throughout bearing. I would like to replace the clutch with a south bend or valair anyway lol. I was mainly concerned about hurting it more in the mean time. No money or time to put a clutch in right now, plus I wanna do rear main and carrier bearing while it's all apart. If they told you that it's just way it is with yours I guess it's not a urgent thing for mine haha thanks for the reply and tips on getting it to shift!

Hi all, I'm having a slight(hopefully) issue with my 01 2500. Since I bought the truck at 248,000 it's always been a little tricky to get into first and reverse. If you put it in first before going to reverse its easy but first can be a little tricky. Anyway I just hit 254,000 and second gear is getting a little hard to get into when I stop at a light/stop sign. However it's only hard if I let the clutch out then put it back in. For example I stop at a light, take out of gear and let clutch out. Then put clutch in and try to put it in second and sometimes it's really hard till I play with it a bit. Usually I can get it but it seems like it's getting worse quickly. If I keep the clutch in from the time I take it out of gear until the time i take off from the light it will go in fine. All other gears shift fine aside from fifth feeling a little weird sometimes. I replaced the fluid right after I bought it with OEM fluid and overfilled about half a qt. I didn't check the fluid yet but I will as soon as I get a chance. It also got colder recently, was down below zero for a day or so but the truck still does it even with weather a little warmer around 20's-30's. What does this indicate? Am I hurting it by continuing to drive it? Also as soon as I shut the truck off it will go into any gear fine

Great thanks again! I was looking at wicked wheels and seeing mostly good things with ones and twos saying either its not worth the cost or the disintegrate! I also found BAE has OE comp wheels for $69 so thats another option. not an upgrade but maybe I don't really need one haha

Thanks once again. Really appreciate you taking time to answer all my questions :-) Lots of info to process and try to make a good decision on whats best. Im leaning toward either the PDR kit or a Wicked Wheel, but I have to look into both a lot more. One thing Im really interested to know and not sure if you answered, does a smaller exhaust housing normally equal higher drive pressure? We were talking about that with relation to the HE351 vs HX35, where that is not the case...Just curios and trying to learn the general rules regarding turbos.

As far as what I want to do with the truck. Right now its a DD. But I plan to keep it for a long time, and who knows if ill tow or not in the future. I just want reasonable power, good milage, and reliability. I baby it 99% of the time, and try to take really good care of it. I can't justify dumping a lot more money into it, thats why I said I don't want twins. I have BD 75hp injectors right now, but I may eventually back down to RV275's to see if I can get better milage. I only have the BD 75's because they came with the truck. I also have a smarty and it will smoke pretty good even with the smarty on SW5 if I step on it, so I know it could use more air. How does the HE351 lower drive pressure with a smaller exhaust housing? I thought it works the opposite? Is it because of the divided/not decided housings? what exactly does divided housing mean? How easy is it to throw an HE351 on my truck? for example, price? ease of install? mounting to 4in exhaust? Thanks for the links, I have been looking at the wicked wheels, have you heard good things about them? Is the PDR HX35 basically a hybrid then? you just use your existing exhaust housing? How is a HE341 so cheap? used i assume? What is the size of it? And would you use it by itself or only if planning on a compound setup? how hard is it to install? Sorry for all the questions haha. Feel free to take your time replying and thanks once again for so much info. I love getting to talk to people who actually know about this stuff!

No problem. I understand totally about the holidays and I hope you are enjoying them! Thanks again for the help on turbos. I have been reading up trying to educate myself on exhaust housing size, turbine size, and compressor wheel size and what they all mean to me. Ive also been trying to come up with a good option for a modest upgrade when I do the rebuild. It seems the hybrid HX35/40 is popular? But then again some say its not enough of an upgrade to be worth it. I figured if I could get a used HX40 with a good housing and comp wheel, I could rebuild mine, add the HX40 comp wheel and housing and have a sweet hybrid without needing to machine anything. I don't have the experience to know if this is a good option or not though. I don't want to go twins and I would like to get maximum use out of my HX35, but I hate to rebuild it without doing some sort of upgrade. Lowering EGT's wouldn't really hurt though either, but I don't want to loose my quick spool. Then again I've also learned about drive pressure and the importance of keeping that in check. The thing I'm most unsure of at this point is, exactly how all these things relate to each other. I like your avatar btw, minions are awesome lol

Thanks a lot cowboy you have been extremely helpful. I really appreciate you educating me on this. By OK I assume you mean its not urgent? But basically if I wait too long to replace the wheel, housing damage could result from the wheel not being balanced due to the nick? is that correct? Then I would have to replace the whole turbo/housing? Are compressor wheels normally balanced? like if i buy a new one from a reputable dealer? If I'm buying a new one is there anything better than a 7 blade? or is that the best for my turbo?

Yes you did see at least one pretty good nick. I don't know what it's from as I've never worked on the turbo but it's there for sure. When you say a replacement, do you mean an entire turbo or just compressor wheel? And based on everything else do you think a rebuild is necessary? Or is it at least not urgent? Maybe it could wait till spring/summer?

Well based on all that do you think the turbo needs rebuilt? I have had a lot of people telling me not to rebuild it unless it really needs it...so thats what Im trying to figure out...and it doesnt look wet in the intercooler pipe at all...

Wow thank you for making those! I just got done checking things out and taking pics and a vid. My problem is its really hard for me to tell if the wheel is rubbing or not....I tried pushing on it and it does get a little tight, like its rubbing, but Im guessing that is just because Im pushing the shaft so its cocked in the bearings. At the same time though, the oil around the blades kind of looks like its been drug by the blades so I'm not sure. Hopefully you can see what I mean in the vid and pics. Here is the first, this is from the aluminum pipe that comes off the turbo, not sure what thats called? Next up, inside that pipe The intercooler end, And the intercooler pipe. And my video. http://vid428.photobucket.com/albums/qq6/leathermaneod/IMG_0467_zpset6lchgr.mp4 Sorry some of it is hard to hear, its just me talking anyway lol. Im going to go and try to make a better one to show the blades and wether or not they touch.

Is the donaldson filter you are talking about a specific part number? or will if i find it if i search for a donaldson filter for 01 cummins?

Thanks again for the tips on rebuilding and about the oil filter, Ill have to check into that. I did a lot of research before deciding on the Fleetguard, but of course I'm open to change if theres something better to be had. How exactly does the internal bypass filter work? Is the baldwin you run better than the donaldson since the secondary is 4 micron? As far as deciding on the rebuild goes, the BHAF has been on for the last 3000 miles. I have cleaned up the housing before and the oil comes back. Thats what made me think it must leak pretty good. Now I couldn't clean it super good, I didnt take it off the truck or take it apart, but I wiped it out and cleaned it up. The oil always comes back. I figured I will base my decision on 1) if there is oil in the hot side of the intercooler, 2) if there is too much shaft play one way or the other. Ill post back in about 12 hours when I get those two things checked out and I can upload a vid and some pics :-)

Thanks for the input. Does the nut have to be in the same orientation too? or just the compressor wheel and shaft? Is the exhaust seal your talking about in the turbo? is that something ill be replacing during the rebuild? I will be rechecking the shaft play in morning and taking a video to post for you all to see, as well as checking the hot side of the intercooler boot for oil. Those to things are going to be the deciding factors as to wether or not I do the rebuild.

I was going by the picture of the turbo I posted at the beginning of this thread...I thought that much oil indicated the seals inside were going bad...I have wiped that clean(as much as possible) before and it always comes back. I really don't think I let the truck idle that much. Its a daily driver not a work truck. I do like to let it warm up before driving when its cold, but only about 10 mins, often times less. Also there is some play in the shaft. Im certainly not an expert, and I don't have a dial indicator, but I think its probably a little more than it should be. I am also hoping that it is the source of the wear metal on the drain plug...either that or that it was just in the pan and was collected on due to the addition of the magnetic drain plug. Also, the oil passed over the plug as it was draining because it was too hot for me to get the plug all the way out. So that may also have helped collect that metal. Anyway, if anyone thinks I am wasting time/money by rebuilding, then please say so :-) I thought I was doing whats best...

Do any of you guys know if i need to get this turbo balanced during the rebuild? I honestly don't even know what that entails, but the manual mentioned it. Also, Fred at DAP mentioned it, but he said I shouldn't need to...

Thank you all for the info and help so far! And thanks for the manual! I will do my best to document the rebuild for you guys. If nothing else there will be a ton of pictures! Should get it done next week sometime as the parts are scheduled to show up on Monday.

I am definitely a little apprehensive, but I just got off the phone with Fred at DAP. I ordered their rebuild kit and exhaust housing gasket and oil drain gasket. He said based on what I told him about the turbo the metal in the oil is probably from the turbo bearings. Hopefully he is right. Anyway he was very helpful and helped me get everything I need. All total with 2nd day shipping was $99.51. Anyone that has tips on rebuilding a turbo please post them! Thanks!

Thanks for the encouragement! now I'm just a little hung up on if i actually need to rebuild it or not...Im pretty sure it leaks oil, but I'm not totally sure. But i guess it would be a good place to start looking for the cause of the metal wear?

What do you think about the possibility of it being normal wear? Is a turbo rebuild something I can tackle pretty easily with the kit? Any special tools I need or big problems I may encounter? Any special tips or instructions for me? I saw some kits on eBay, anything else specific to look for in a rebuild kit? other that what you already mentioned? what all should be included in the kit? I don't really have the money for a compression test right now, so ill just have to start with the turbo rebuild and oil analysis.

So if the metal is from the turbo, is it from the turbo housing or the compressor wheel? Also, is it possible that the amount of metal I'm seeing is normal wear? Just that most don't see it because the stock drain plug doesnt have a magnet? Is it possible to rebuild a holset turbo or should I buy a new one? The po did have a K&N, but I have cleaned the turbo up a little bit where I can reach and the oil always comes back so I'm thinking it probably does leak...

Thanks! That makes me feel a lot better. I know a decent amount about how to fix vehicles, but I don't have the experience to know what this kind of stuff indicates or how best to handle it. Greatly appreciate everyones advice as always! Merry Christmas to all BTW.

Ok thanks gents! Ill post back in a month or so when thats all done and I have the analysis from blackstone.

so you wouldnt flush it? just half the change time and send an analysis to blackstone and see what they say?