leathermaneod

Well yes I know that lol. But what I'm asking is what Mike said about the comp the same for the EZ? And how does edge do that? Also, do you guys think I would hurt anything running the older style EZ on its highest setting all the time? I just don't want to end up getting less mpgs than I can with the smarty basically...I have a friend who would sell me an older EZ without the toggle for $200....is that a good price?

That's pretty awesome how does that work? Would that be the same for the EZ then? Like if I were to get an older one that you cant switch on the fly and just turn it all the way up, I'd see the best mileage that way?

Thanks! I'm trying to take my time and make an informed decision. I don't think I'll regret it. The smarty has way more than I need so I think I'll be ok.

Oh yeah possibly. I definitely have no problems getting it to smoke. even on 5 it will smoke good if I step on it a little. I also have 75hp injectors though...

Yes between all the different combinations I tried I wouldn't say the differences are extreme. 9 was pretty intense though. Any throttle would result in my truck bellowing smoke like a freight train lol tranny isn't quite stock....I have a valair single disc organic rated for 400hp and 900 ft lbs. plus the updated fifth gear nut and retainer from active trans but that's it.

When I first got the truck I pretty much tried everything. Normally I run SW 1, but once in a while I put it on SW 5 to have a little fun.

Pretty much. Basically I would just like the switching on the fly so I can drive on economy normally but easily have power when I want it. Not mega power, just a little get up and go.

Missing much how?

Lol I just want to be able to use the fuel consumption monitoring features on the scanguage. Plus I've also been wanting to have a tuner I can adjust on the fly.

That's a shame, let me know if anything falls through. That would be perfect! Apparently the smarty messes with the ecm fuel tables and so the truck does not accurately report fuel consumption.

Ok thanks! Any idea where quadzilla falls into the mix? I saw one for a pretty decent price on another forum....

Catnhat, any chance you are interested in selling the power puck or an ez? And if so how much would you want? Mike, How would the power puck compare in terms of hp and tq numbers and fuel economy?

OK thanks that's kind of what I thought. Does anyone know anything about the powerpuck?

Lol no problem.......next question... What would the comp do for me that the EZ won't if I don't want to tap my pump wire? Basically what I'm asking is...is the comp worth it if I'm not going to tap the pump wire?

Thanks for the advice. I'm confused though, I thought newer versions of the EZ are adjustable with a toggle in the cab? Am I missing something?

Yes the juice is pretty much out of the question for me. I don't need/want all that. I'm really not even sure I need the comp. I dont really want to have the pump wire tapped again either. Just scared me a little I guess. Because of that I don't think I'd be using the comp to its full potential anyway. I'm really leaning towards the easy. Numbers wise it should give me the same power as the smarty did....do you think I'll wish I had the comp? I don't need or want crazy power, and I already have 75 hp injectors. I may even back those down to rv275s in the future....

On a similar note does anyone have any input on whether to go with an edge comp or edge ez? Anyone had smarty and edge that could offer input?

Interesting. Well I just did a flush so I should be good on that, but just to be safe I may do another before replacing it if I decide to go that route. I've pretty much done all the testing I can do, so I just have to make up my mind one way or the other. Thanks again! If I do end up replacing the hydroboost, is there any particular brands I should look for or stay away from?

Ok well thank you very much for the reply. I am looking at the hydrobooster, but I'm not sure how to proceed with it. I don't think a normal rebuild will do anything for it since a leak is not the major issue. BUT, I am very hesitant to buy a new/reman on because I have read quite a few threads of guys replacing them and either getting a bad one, or having the new one not fix the slow return. The weird part is that it seems as though as soon as I take my foot off the pedal the brakes are released(truck seems to move easily). The issue is just that the trailer brake controller stays activated. That makes me wonder if I could somehow adjust the brake light switch. I think my brake pedal has more travel than yours, but its not excessive at all.

Wow thats crazy! Thanks a million for the info Mike! Yes I am using a Smarty! Guess its time to find a new tuner or give up on the idea of using the fuel consumption functions of my scan gauge...anyone wanna trade Smarty for an Edge EZ or Edge Comp? lol Btw Mike, did you see my post about my slow pedal return? Do you have any thoughts on that? and have you ever encountered a similar situation? It seems a lot of trucks are like that but I haven't found a reliable solution anywhere yet....

That's exactly why I'm concerned about it. I don't tow much but I don't want to have problems when I do either...The FSM says that slow return can be caused by a restricted return line. I just ordered a new return hose from autozone. Only $22 and the short section of mine is in bad shape anyway. We'll see if that helps but I doubt it.

I appreciate the reply! I actually just rebuilt the pedal linkage with grease and new bushings so I know that's not it. It may not really be a problem. The only reason I notice it is because of the light on my brake controller staying on after I take my foot of the pedal. I wonder what exactly is wrong with the hydroboost if pushing the pedal rapidly one inch doesn't cause fluid movement. Because just thinking about how my pedal is I'm not sure if it will move the fluid with only an inch of travel...

Hi all, ive been trying for a few months now to get my scanguage calibrated. I followed all instructions to the letter, as far as I can tell, but many fill ups later I was still having to adjust the offset percentage by around 100%. I tried messing with diesel a and diesel b today on the drive to work to see if it changed the gph, but it was really hard to tell. However, most of the time it seems like the gph reading is way lower than it should be. Even beyond the typical 0 at idle. Is it possible that my truck is incorrectly reporting fuel consumption? Is there any way to test or calibrate that? Anyone have any idea what I'm doing wrong? I love the scanguage for its other features but I would really like to be able to see accurate mpg data....

Thank you! I will read that as you suggest. So I read it, very informative! The only things I got from it that apply to my situation though, are that maybe the return springs inside are worn out, and I can test for movement of the brake fluid while rapidly pressing the brake pedal in 1 inch. If it doesn't move, then apparently the hydroboost is bad. However, according to the normal operation test, mine is working properly because my pedal does sink and then return when the truck is started. Maybe it's not returning that slow? Maybe my brake light switch is just out of adjustment? I'm going to do the above test when I get a chance and see what happens

Hi all, So I've had a slow to return brake pedal since I bought the truck a year ago, but I was hoping after a power steering and brake fluid flush it would be better. Well I finally got around to flushing them and so far it's not much if any better. It takes a solid 3 seconds for the pedal to return when the truck is warm and even more when cold. I even took apart and cleaned the valve on the high pressure power steering line at the reservoir. And I used almost 4 qts of ps fluid to do the flush. Now we did only pump the brake twice lightly while doing the ps flush, but it spewed almost a qt of ps fluid just from that so we figured that was good for the hydroboost side of things. Anyway the brakes work great, I'm just wondering if there is anything else I can or should do to help this slow return besides replacing or rebuilding the hydroboost. Another ps and hydroboost flush maybe? I don't want to tackle rebuilding the hydroboost until it's really necessary and right now this isn't a major problem. My vacuum pump and ps pump need resealed first to fix my oil leak lol. thanks in advance guys!