leathermaneod

I'm not sure if it's leaking anymore or not. I'm really not happy with it though. I left the 90°s on the old hose so I think I'm going to put it back together with the old fittings and clean everything with scotch brite and see what happens. There's got to be something wrong. There's no way it's right for these to be this tight.

Hey guys, So I got the new parts from Eric yesterday, and got right to work swapping things out. This is what my setup looks like It isn't quite the way I wanted it, the hose is against the power steering reservoir and I didn't want that. But I may just have to live with it because I may have finally got it to stop leaking. Its SO hard to get the swivel nut to turn without the whole elbow turning. Im still not sure if I've got it or not. Basically spent all morning loosening and tightening and going for a drive over and over and over again trying to get them to seal up but they just won't. I can't believe how tight I've had to make these things! I don't get what issue is. I didn't have any trouble at all when I first go the big line kit. And the only thing thats different now is the route the hose takes. Before I had it kind of up and over the PS cap, and now its like you see in the pics. I did that because it was a pain the way it was before when flushing the PS fluid. Any advice guys? The only other thing I can think of is to take everything off and clean all the mating surfaces with scotch bright then clean everything with brake cleaner and compressed air and start all over again.

Agreed!

Lol can't blame you there

you could order one....http://m.autozone.com/engine-management/throttle-position-sensor-tps/duralast-throttle-position-sensor-tps/dodge/ram-2500-3-4-ton-4wd/2001/6-cylinders-6-5-9l-turbo-diesel/603963_0_0/?location=

Well thank you for posting that. This explains a lot. I had always wondered why the pyro gauge was darker than the fp and boost. I fixed it by using led bulbs and getting a brighter one for the pyro gauge.

Again not trying to argue, but isn't it possible that wells has designed their apps to work properly at any voltage between .5 and .6? I understand what the voltage on the tag means and why the OE needs to be set below it, I'm just saying, what if wells also understood it and engineered their apps to work as long as it's between .5 and .6 to simplify everything. I'm just saying it seems like they did their homework on this and they include the instructions that say to set voltage between .5 and .6. Again not trying to argue, just throwing ideas out there. If it were true that the wells needed voltage to be below that of the tag, my high idle shouldn't work right now because mine is set at approximately .505 and the sticker said .497, but everything works just fine. The he timbo may be better, I'm not trying to argue one way or the other, although I do like lifetime warranties, which the wells(duralast) has, I'm just confused on this...

Maybe that's what the Autometer is then idk. I was just looking at the instructions online and it has a k type thermocouple, but makes no mention of an amplifier. It's kinda weird though because I think it used to read more what I expected at key on, but then I had to disconnect it when I installed my fp gauge and it was a little off since then. Edit: no that wouldn't make sense because mine takes power from a keyed source for the gauge itself so it's not mechanical. And it also takes power for the light bulb.

Ok thanks!

Interesting. Would it be safe to say mine is installed correctly with or without amp if it is working and I have realistic numbers? Only issue I have with mine is that i think it reads a little high at key on (based on outside temp when truck is cold)and when you shut it off it drops way down below the zero mark. Not sure if that's normal or not but all my readings while driving seem about right. Only real weird thing I've had with it is that my reading goes down in 3 cylinder mode rather than up. what happens if you use the isspro without amplifier?

What does an amplifier do in this situation? My truck came with Autometer z series pyro and boost gauges so I didn't have the pleasure of installing one. I don't think mine has an amplifier, should it?

Would a heat sink on top even do anything? Isn't there too much plastic there for it to really transfer the heat to the sink so it can dissipate?

yes I have seen and read that thread before. I am wondering if wells made their apps so that the .5-.6 range will always work? Is that possible? I'm guessing as long as it works and high idle works there is nothing to worry about. One problem I can see is for guys with autos and possible shifting issues...the other thing I'm concerned about for me is it getting out of range as it wears and no longer going into high idle. But if that happens I'll know why and go pick up my new one for free at autozone :-)

Lol that's exactly what I was going to do but you beat me to it. Definitely not trying to argue, because I know a lot of you guys know way more about electronics than I do, but they clearly advertise that it is no contact. I was under the impression that it works kind of like a wheel speed sensor for abs or traction control where the magnet moves and another component senses it's motion. With it still using the IVS I'm kind of surprised that mine works ok being that I have it set so close the the lower limit of .5v. the instructions that come with it say to set it between .5 and .6. After talking with a slightly misinformed person I set mine to about .505. Mike you know what I'm talking about from our phone conversation. I wonder if I should change mine and get it closer to the middle of that range? Or just leave it be as long as it works? TFaoro, what voltage did you set yours at?

The wells tps does have a lifetime warranty. At least it does if you get it from autozone. They sell it under their brand of duralst. I dont know much about electronics, but I think the theory behind it lasting longer is due to the contacts not needing to rub against each other as in the Timbo. This is accomplished by use of the magnet. If you look on YouTube you can find a video where wells explains it. Mike you should hold fundraisers specifically to buy parts and dissect them haha. Then you could really tell us which apps is better

Weird. I hope the other end is well insulated!

notlimah, in the picture of your battery with the broken lug, where does the small red wire go? The one that's molded on beside the large cable....just curious

Yes that is my plan as well. That was half of my reason for adding the needle valve.

Lol hey I can't help it. I'm a perfectionist and an extremely OCD one at that haha. While we're on the subject of fixing things that aren't broken, anyone know if adding fog lights is as easy as changing the dash light switch and plugging in to the connector under the rad support?

Well it's actually going to be identical to the way I have it now...the only way to simplify it would be to get rid of a snubber...but with new parts there is no reason it should leak. I don't think it's over complicated...ill post a pic for you when it's done.

I'm pretty bad about letting things like that go lol but I am trying to get better. I have a very bad habit of creating bigger problems by trying to fix or improve things that are not broken. I have a good excuse for this one right now though. And that is how darn cold it is. Plus I need to get the truck up and running so I can tear my wife's car apart lol As far as what I'm getting, I assume you meant to fix the issues? Basically the new parts for a big line kit. Two tapped 90°s, 1/2" hose, and the adapters for the filter housing and vp.

Thanks for the tips! Well I just talked to Eric at Vulcan. That dude really is great! It's awesome to find there are still a few places that believe in customer service. I told him the situation and his response was "what parts do you need to make this right?". It doesn't get any better than that. He also told me never to use pipe dope on this stuff and that the loctite 545 is the very best. Only bad thing is now I'm wondering if I should get rid of the pipe dope that's on the fittings at my fuel boss lift pump. That is before the fuel filter at least, but I still don't like it now. Just don't know if it's worth the hassle after its been that way since November.

Oops! Lol

Thanks for the quick reply and very helpful info! I won't give up on them then. I tried calling that number you posted but maybe they are not open yet. I will keep trying though.

Hey guys, so last night I tried loosening both ends of the big line. I made sure they are on correctly and not dirty then tightened them back down being very careful to make sure they were straight and seated correctly. I couldn't start the truck last night because it was very cold and hadn't been plugged in so I waited till this morning and got it fired up. Well it still leaks in exam the same places. Right out the end of the hose at the filter end, and from the swivel at the vp end. All I can think of at this point is to tighten the fitting at the vp end a little more, but that doesn't fix the other end. So the fittings and hose must be defective right? These things should not be this hard to get to stop leaking! I've tried calling Vulcan with no response so today I tried messaging them from their site. Has anyone dealt with their customer service department before? I don't want to just buy new fittings and hose, when all this stuff is only a few months old. one other thing, is there a better vendor to get fitting from than Vulcan?