leathermaneod

Good idea! I will definitely give that I try next time. I've been using the drainpan of course but hadn't thought of those.

Where did you get the bushing?

I will check the bearing. The reason I think it's bad on mine is because of the popping/clunking it makes in the column when turning the wheel. My only concern with the bushing is because of have heard of it really tightening up in cold weather.

Thanks for the tip! Sounds like the best thing for me to do is wait on this new synergy setup. Just need to figure out the steering bushing now.

Thank you for the input! Truck looks great btw! That would definitely be an option for me except I really want to stick with stock alloy wheels for now. Btw do you guys know anything about the DOR steering upgrade? I'm trying to figure out how it differs from this new synergy setup...other than being a little pricey....

Oh ok well thank you both for all the info. I think I misunderstood what you meant before. I thought you meant I would work but only possible if you reamed out the holes. I assume you actually meant it will literally bolt up just fine with no mods, just not fit properly and so be a big no no. This would explain how it "works" for some but not others. Some guys are content to make it work, while others, like you or I, want to do it right. Good news is, I found a thread on CF about a product from Synergy that will be released soon, and will be a direct bolt on kit for the 00-02 trucks and also have an option for the earlier ones. So I think I'll just wait for that. Then I don't have to get other wheels right now. Now I just need someone to chime in with info on the Rock Solid Steering bushing. Lol we are talking about the same thing on different forums.

But based on that other page it sounds like some 00-02 trucks have the correct size taper for the 98-99 and some will have the correct for the 3rd gen. Is that not the case? Am I missing something? I have no intention of reaming out the holes, and it's not something I would even consider, just trying to figure this all out and get the correct parts.

Hmmm ok I will look into that. This is exactly what I was looking for. The page I linked says the 98-99 will work on most 01's so that's why I'm a little confused. Seems like it works on some trucks but not all. Does the third gen setup always work? That's a shame I need the 3rd gen wheels. I may have to find out for sure if the 98-99 will work on my truck. The most attractive thing about this swap, to me, was how cheap it would be if I could use the 98-99 parts. Having to get 3rd gen wheels is going to really make it expensive...

Hi all, So I have always wanted to upgrade my steering to a sold tie rod setup, and to fix the popping/clunking noise my steering wheel makes when turned. I recently came across this page http://www.mark74.com/ram_modifications.htm#crossover%20steering and I would like to hear from guys who have done the 98-99 heavy duty steering upgrade on a 2000-01. Also from anyone who had done the Rock Solid Steering Bushing on the same year truck. It all sounds too good to be true and I'm wondering why these mods aren't more common if they are so great? Only bad thing I've heard about either is that the bushing for the Rock Solid Steering can get tight in cold weather and need to be sanded down. So let me hear your experiences with these mods! I am very excited to do them if they are worth it! Doesn't even seem like they'll be that expensive!

Interesting. I haven't heard that before. I thought the problem with higher pressures comes from the fuel solenoid having to overcome them to open?

Wow that's crazy. i can adjust the bypass valve I have, but it makes a mess because of having to open the fuel line. And it's really hard to get it dialed in so it doesn't go below 15 or over 20. I was just hoping the FASS would regulate better. Btw Tyler, does your Autometer pyrometer have a stop pin? Just curious because mine does not, and at key off the needle drops way down past zero almost to 6 o'clock. However, I just disconnected it and sent it in to Autometer to get checked out, and with it unplugged the needle sits at 0. Really weird. What does yours do? As far as the pressures, I know Mike says 14-20 are the magic numbers. Has anyone ever tested or have info on what happens with pressures over 20? Lots of guys run a little over so I'm curious...

Well thanks for all the tips guys! I guess maybe I'm just looking for perfection in something that's just not going to be. I just wish I could have it hold at 17. Makes me nervous anytime it gets near 15 or 20....

Mine will go from about 16 or so at startup to about 19 or so at 2000 rpms. Then at idle usually about 17 but sometimes 16. I have an Autometer mechanical fuel pressure gauge with a snubber and needle valve. I just added the needle valve to get rid of a slight needle bounce. Over all my numbers are not terrible, but they just aren't very consistent and id like to make it a little more steady. I also am using the tuning kit for the bypass valve because when I first got it pressure was about 14 at idle. Like I said I was just hoping the FASS regulator would be able to keep it more solid, but I'm trying to find out before buying one. It's possible I guess but I don't really have the symptoms for that I don't think....pressure is steady at idle. It's just not very consistent. Other wise it acts like it should....id just like to get it more steady and figured the FASS regulator should do that.

Hi all, I am looking for guys running the Fuel Boss with the FASS regulator (or similar) instead of the bypass valve it comes with. I would like to try it on mine but I'd like to find some info before I drop $140 on the regulator. I have the fuel boss and I like it, but I'd like to keep my fuel pressure a little more steady. So I'd like to talk to someone running this combo who can tell me how it actually works out. TIA!

Haha yes it definitely was! Also taught me something about taping threads since I'd never done that before. Thanks for all the input from everyone btw!

Lol I have looked into it some. Sounds like the ATS is the way to go and it already has ports for probes. But honestly, I've put some much time, effort, and money into this truck trying to do things to take care of it properly, right now I really just want it to be drivable and reliable. So as long as the probe and plug don't leak or fall out, I'll do my best to be content. For now...lol

Yeah if I had to guess I'd say its probably about an 1/8" or so. And the plug may be a 1/16" if any. Just really upset me because I thought I was being so careful not to go to far. Then I couldn't make them as tight as otherwise would have because of not wanting them in too deep. I started it up then and let it run all the way up to temp in 3 cyl mode. It was hard to tell if it was leaking because of all the PB blaster and neverseize burning off but I don't think it was. Just had me worried since like I said I couldn't make them as light as I would have. Hopefully they will only seal better with time and heat cycles though and not come loose. I was also mad because the hole didn't wind up quite where I wanted it. I was trying to get them both in line so it would at least be neat but it just didn't happen. Oh well some day I'll get a new manifold. Oh and now 3 cyl is the temp it should be, 425-475.

Well it could be worse but it could be better. Im definitely going to have some extra turbulence due to this install. My inexperience with tapping led me to go deeper than i should have :-( I tapped and test fit and tapped and test fit and it wasn't going in that far. Well when I tightened it with a wrench it went A LOT further....havent started it yet but hopefully it seals up ok. I didnt make them too tight because I didnt want to go any deeper.

Anyone got any info on this?

Hmmmm theirs looks a lot closer to the turbo flange than 2 inches, I wonder if that matters....I also wonder why they say to go bigger than the recommended size for the tap?

Hey all! Good news! Old probe and fittings came out just fine. My only question now is, how deep should I tap the new threads? The old hole is only tapped literally like 3 threads deep! Which makes it about half way through. Is that right? My pipe plug doesn't go in far at all!! Also, will placing the probe about 2-1/8" instead of 2" from the turbo flange hurt anything? I'd like to place it in line with the old hole...

Sounds awesome! I'd definitely be interested in seeing some pics when you get them!

Unfortunately I don't have anything that is know at this point lol I'll just have to see what happens with this new set of fittings Eric is sending me. I may do the sharpie check before putting them on the truck. I just wish there was some better way to do this. Or that you could get brass versions of these tapped 90°s.

Ok so I get the idea of the 45°. But I don't see a dual port pushlok T. Is that something you are trying to find? Or are you using the Schrader valve T instead? Honestly I really think just having a tapped 90° at each end is almost easiest. If I can just get parts that don't leak lol. I'm planning to make the hose longer this time and the bend over the ps cap a little bigger. Or maybe try and loop it behind again. Or maybe I can go down and under things... I'll have to see how it goes, but Eric said I should try to make it longer and put less stress on the fittings. There has seriously got to be something wrong with these fittings, but Eric said he hasn't heard anything else back about them so I don't get it. This is supposed to be better and easier than the stock banjo fittings, not harder...

That's a great idea! I could go down to 3/8 hose then and just use the normal 90°s at each end. Who knows if they would seal up right lol The only downside I can see to that setup is, that you end up with a big hunk of fittings just hanging out in the middle of your hose...