leathermaneod

The connector tube o rings are the ones on the delivery tubes(connector tubes/crossover tubes) that go inside the head between the fuel line and the injector.

Those prices are crazy. You should look into this site https://quickserve.cummins.com/info/index.html you can create an account and have a few ESN's for free. You can look stuff up and see exploded views. It's usually pretty easy to find stuff and they are pretty helpful if you call. Prices are usually good and shipping is very quick!

I'm also worried that spring being weak may be part of the issue with my slow pedal return. I tried to find a replacement, but no luck so far. I wonder if I could stretch it some?

Thanks for the reply! I got everything apart. How did you get the spring and spring retainer and push rod out of the old unit? Do you have to disassemble it? I took the mounting bracket off but that didn't help...I'm also going be replacing the brake master cylinder too. I had to take it off to get the hydroboost out, and I figured it might go at any time. Plus it was a little wet inside so it might have been leaking. Just not sure if it was brake fluid or ps fluid. Thankfully autozone has a new master cylinder, not reman. I wish I had a new steering bushing to throw in right now, it would be super easy with all this apart...

That's really cool that you can tell all that by looking at the break! Awesome explanation! Mike, the red and black paint looks awesome!

Sounds good ill do that then. Last time I did diffs I got the special gear oil stuff. It worked fine, but it sure was hard to sqeeze out! It was grey but came in a green tube.

Thanks! I'll try that. Do you think I'd have to drain it for that? Or could I get away without if I'm quick? Also just curious, any particular reason for ultra grey vs like ultra black or something?

I changed mine right after buying my truck and it came out looking pretty brown. I had to drain it about 8000 miles later and it was the same color. So I certainly wouldn't mind draining it again to try and clean it up. Not to mention my PTO covers or the bolts leak for some reason and id have to drain it to fix that. I'm not sure why they are leaking as I had new gaskets put one while it was out for the clutch and 5th gear. Maybe some RTV on the bottom bolt would help...

Wow. Seems like that would not be wise on something with no filter to catch the dirt and wear metal, even if the oil didn't break down in that time. Honestly, if/when I make the switch to the Mobil, I will probably do every 25 or 50k. Just because I can, and it can't hurt.

That's crazy! Where do they get the updated shaft they use? I totally agree on the need for the right tools. That's why I took mine to a shop to get it looked over and have the new 5th gear but put on. I looked into getting the tools, but just like you mentioned in your other thread, way too expensive for a once or twice in a lifetime use. Thats also good news on the 100k change interval for that fluid. Makes the $50 a gallon even easier to swallow.

Well $50 a gallon sure is a heck of a lot better than $100! 450 ft lbs is the new spec for what? 5th gear nut?

Just got back from Walmart and wanted to share some things I learned looking at oil. I just might have to give up on Valvoline and go with the rotella t6. It's only $21 something a gallon vs $26 something for the Valvoline at Napa. It also comes in qts and 2.5 gal jugs, which are $53 something, so that's a plus too. I also found something else I didn't realize was an option. Chevron Delo comes in 5w-40 full synth, not just 15w-40 isosyn, and it was only $17 something per gallon. Now I assume it's still group 3 base stock, but it's another option anyway. It would be cool to do a cold flow test comparing the 15w-40 isosyn to 5w-40 synth and see if it's actually anywhere close.

Thanks for the reply! I looked around a little, but Google wasn't helping too much. I did find a site that had new units on CF, but they only had up to a 99. Plus the new unit was about $500. That's just way to much for me to spend on this thing. As far as rebuilding, I would love to attempt it, but I don't think it would help the slow pedal return, and that's half the issue I'm hoping to solve. I'm also not totally sure that mine is original so it might not be worth rebuilding anyway.

I went from a Smarty S-03 to an edge comp and overall I like the comp better. The on the fly adjustment is awesome and the top rpm range is wayyyyyyyy better. The Smarty was really nice on the bottom end so I do miss that just a little. It was kinda insane how fast it would build boost with the smarty, literally no lag. I haven't had a chance to compare fuel mileage yet. Edge is pretty great to deal with, but I also had good luck getting questions answered on the Smarty forum. One bad thing about the smarty is having to always re flash the ecm, always made me nervous. The guy at edge said the same thing, but of course he would. I have heard a lot though that edge is best for vp44 trucks and smarty is the best on common rails. Oh also, I have 75hp injectors and my truck smoked quite a bit more with the smarty. On level 9 it was like a train lol Now with the comp it doesn't smoke as much. Just my opinions. Good luck!

Well I was working on a project under the dash today and it looks like my leak is getting a little bigger so I'm not go a hold off anymore. I don't want my interior getting a ps fluid bath when this thing finally blows. I checked with Napa and autozone, seems like they both have the same thing, Cardone reman. Only autozone is $50 cheaper at $220 plus $70 core charge. Plus I like autozones warranty better. So hopefully tomorrow I'll be flushing the system again, then installing the new booster and some new hoses. Let me know if anyone has any opinions on a better booster or anything specific I should do to be sure this solves my issues!!

It's just like the supply and return banjos at the VP44. Bolt head, washer, line, washer, sealing surface of head.

Hey all, Got another question for the group. I have two brake issues that have been there since I bought my truck, but only just now getting around to. Both are hydroboost related. First, it leaks on the inside of the firewall. No question there, it needs rebuilt or replaced, however I don't think rebuilding is an option because of the second issue. Namely, the pedal is very slow to return. Takes about 3 good seconds for it to return and my brake controller light to go out, and even longer when the truck is cold. I had a friend help me flush the power steering fluid, but that didn't help much if at all. So I'm looking into a new hydrobooster. My question is, does anyone know of any specific brand to look for, or to avoid? Any success stories or horror stories with reman hydroboosters? Is there anywhere that sells actual NEW ones? thanks in advance!

When I bought my truck it had a k&n oil filter on it. I really hate how so many people use k&n stuff. I don't like seeing any engine being taken care of less well than it could be, and I really think all k&n filters are substandard. I know some people like them for the stupid nut on the bottom, but I just don't make filters that tight to begin with and then they aren't hard to get off. Anyway, rant over, the k&n that was on my truck came off super full and overflowed just like Mike said. However, the last Fleetguard stratapore I took off was only about 1/2-2/3 as AH64ID said. AH64ID, is there any truth to the rumor that the Donaldson filter you mentioned is more restrictive than the Fleetguard Stratapore? I would like the better filtration numbers, but that rumor has me a little scared to use it.... also, almost forgot, what synth oil are you running? Btw thanks for everyone's input, I guess I really need to stop pre filling my filters....

I would either cap the inlet and outlet, or remove the filter housing just to prevent dirt getting in it, but I don't think that could be your problem...

Maybe you could try to get PayPal to help you? I'm not sure how that would work, but it might be an option....

So this particular 50wt will be ok for the carbon fiber syncronizers?

Gotcha. Are you planning to get the 50wt out of your new trans analyzed periodically? I'm very interested to see how it treats a transmission that's know to be so particular with fluid...

Did I miss something? That pdf is awesome yes, but it doesn't say anything about the NV4500?? Are the G56 and NV4500 that similar?? And still, what's wrong with the substitute fluid made by redline and available from quad 4x4?

Ill be very interested in hearing how this fluid performs for you! I hope it treats your newly rebuilt trans well. I would love to know I could change my trans fluid for $40 rather than $100! I'm also interested to see how cold weather shifting is affected. All that said, I'm curious as to why your not wanting to use the substitute from Quad 4x4? I assume because it's not locally available....

That's awesome! Thank you!