leathermaneod

My dad had a 93' 12v with an auto. He didn't have any tuning done to the pump or anything, but it always had way less power than he had hoped. Finally figured out it had a boost leak, but then the frame rotted out. The thing was totally gutless though. Driving it around you never know it even had a turbo at all. It sounded sick though. I really wish he still had that thing.

I guess another good question could be, is the truck's voltmeter even very accurate?

Thanks for the info! Where you saying normal on the voltage too? Maybe that's my issue with the calibration then. It takes me about a week and a half to go through a tank of fuel.... i I have to add about 2% for speed according to a speedo app on my iPhone, and my odometer is usually about two miles behind the scanguage

Hey guys, So I have a few questions for those who have experience with the Scangauge 2. I have had mine since Christmas and I really like it, but I'm having a really hard time getting the fuel usage features calibrated. The first issue was I had a Smarty. So I sold that and got an Edge comp, but its still taking FOREVER to get it to be accurate. Its still about 4.5 mpgs high on the average mpgs. I did notice something I think is really odd though. At idle, it is showing some minor fuel usage, between about .06 and .2 gph. It is reading 0 mpgs at idle though so thats good. Heres the even weirder part, I can be cruising along and if I let off the go pedal some, it will jump to 0 gph and 9999 mpgs. It seems to be any gear, and various rpms, just cruising along at almost any speed, I just have to let off the throttle a good bit. Does that sound normal? Could that be why I'm having such a hard time getting this thing calibrated? Next question, I noticed today that the Scanguage reading as low as 13.6 on the voltmeter at times. Is that normal? I've seen it fluctuate between 14.1 and 13.6 now.

Thanks!

I'm curious about your rpm at 50mph as well. I only see about 1450 in 5th at 50mph...I barely feel safe using 5th at 50mph lol

Thanks for the info! What brand did you go with? and did the new ones line things up nicely? Also, are there bushings on the bed mounts that need replaced too, or just the cab?

Hey guys, So I'm sure everyone has seen those pickup trucks that have either the bed or cab sagging so badly that the truck is folding in half. I absolutely hate that look, even the slightest bit. Well I think my truck has started to do this, ever so slightly. I'm probably the only one who would notice it. But I wanna get a jump on trying to figure it out. Does anyone know what causes this? Is it worn out cab mount bushings? Can I get replacements? Has anyone else encountered this issue? thanks! EDIT: So just looking around I found Energy Suspension poly cab bushings at Geno's for $120. So now my questions are, how much work are they to replace? Just take the bolt out and lift the cab with a jack and pop the new bushing in? Also, I was reading one thread where guys didn't want the poly bushings, are they not as good as the OEM rubber?

Lol yes I know which ones you would have chosen. I just really like to be able to grease stuff like this. I always look for greasable whenever possible, be it sway bar links, ball joints, u joints ect. I know I will keep up with greasing them so to me it's the better option. Who knows if it actually is or not, but it's what I like and I didn't want to wait around for others when he very confidently told me that the neapcos are just as good, and I don't see what reason he would have to lie. Why would he care which he sells, especially when it's a small job. Thanks for confirming that those clips are good btw. I appreciate it. Also thank you for explains about the driveshaft angles. That's very interesting. So the cardan joint is because the front drive shaft is perfectly in line with yoke that comes out of the front diff? That's what you meant by it being at 0°?

Well I got the driveshaft u joints replaced and the shaft balanced today by my local Fleetpride, and got it all back together tonight. Not sure if they are a chain or not? Anyone ever heard of them? It seems like they do a lot of big trucks, and apparently specialize in driveline. They told me they only use Spicer and Neapco U joints. They only had the Neapcos on hand in greaseable, but they assured me that they use them all the time and that they are just as good as Spicer. The guy there told me that as far as he knows, the u joints from Napa are chinese made and not manufactured to oem tolerances. He said that was probably why one of my joints was a little loose. He said he has seen a lot of bad napa parts lately.... anyway they got the job done very quickly and only charged $120 for the new joints, labor, and balancing. I thought that was very reasonable. By the way, the shaft was balanced and did not require the addition of any weight. I did think it was slightly odd that some of the joints are slightly tight, and not tight like hard to move, just not loose like the old ones were, or like the ones I put it were some of the time lol. And one of the new ones is a little tighter on one side of its travel. I'm hoping everything is all good. I guess if it balance out it should be fine. My only other concern is a couple of the retaining clips. I'm paranoid now since that one of mine almost fell out. I have some pics of the ones I'm not sure about. hard to tell but on the end you can see its not totally seated Compared to this nice one...maybe its just not possible to get them all perfect? Not sure if these matter or if I'm being way to paranoid. I did get them to tap one in better before I left, and one of they guys looked at one of these and said it was good....the other was wrapped up real nice in plastic What do you guys think? leave them be and just check up on them and make sure they aren't coming out? or try and tap them in? I didnt want to go banging on anything after the shaft was balanced and have a joint tighten up like I experience they other day....I would hope these guys are a good bunch. They seemed very knowledgable and gave me plenty of time to tell them my story and my concerns. They even got the joints in so that all the grease fitting point the same way! I was pretty impressed at that lol Another question. You can see in this pic that my driveshaft comes out of the rear diff on a slight angle, why is that?

Just curious, how do you tell if you've kicked the needle down in the cap? I understand the joint gets tight, but how tight? And I suppose if it won't loosen up by tapping on the yoke.... I've always thought that front one would be a pain, it's even hard to get unbolted with the cross member in the way. I will definitely take that one to a shop the first time. Was the one you bent fixable, or did you have to replace it?

I certainly hope not. It only has about 3k on it and it's a US made SKF.....the whirring does not always happen either, only when the trans is good and hot I believe. Seems like it only happens after long ish(20+ miles) drives.

Yeah, just makes me mad that I screwed up what should be a simple task, and wasted $60. Oh well, lesson learned. Hopefully that one yoke isn't screwed up that the joint was kinda loose like that, idk how it could be if those were the original joints, it's not like it was rusted bad or beat up.

So this has kinda turned into a complete fail for me. Today driving the truck around something doesn't feel right. The shaking I was talking about before isn't as bad, but there are others at different speeds. So I pretty much decided to take the shaft back out and get it balanced. Well I got under there an found one of the retaining rings barely still in place. Some of the joints also tightened up on me again and don't move as freely(I spent a lot of time trying to get those clips in and then having to bang on the yoke trying to get the joint to loosen up). Anyway the shaft is now in the back of my civic (thank goodness it's a two piece) to go to the shop tomorrow. I figured I'll get them to look at it and possibly even re replace all the joints . Thankfully they aren't too expensive. Then I can also get their opinion on the one joint that was kinda loose and have it balanced. Unfortunately this just is not as simple as press the old one out and press the new one in

Just gona throw in another question here, twice lately I have noticed kind of a whirring sound coming from the transmission when sitting with the clutch pressed and trans in reverse. I take it out of reverse and the whirring stops, put it back in revers and it starts again. Anything to worry about?

If I had known the original spicers lasted that long I may have gone with them even though I do prefer to always get greasable parts when I can. I would probably get the joints done by someone if I did it again too lol How long have your greasable joints held up Mike? Im curious to see how mine do being they are SKF. I'm also worried about that one with the seal that I cut, I'm hoping regular greasing will make them last a long time....

Well if they are stock then I guess maybe good quality non greasables are better than I would have given them credit for. You think they are stock since they are spicer? I know spicer is the original brand, but can't you buy replacement spiders? I figured these had been replaced before.

Thats one slick setup!

Thats crazy that your trans stays that cool Mike. I just posted another topic, but it involves checking the trans fluid just after shutdown and the trans seemed pretty warm. Now I was on the exhaust side and I do not have any kind of heat shield, but still....I wonder if that lighter fluid makes that much of a difference.

Hey guys, Late last year I noticed my front passenger side axle seal was leaking, so I had a local place replace it. Well just the other week, approximately 7 months after the replacement, I noticed it was leaking again. I took it back to the shop and the replaced it again and told me to keep an eye on it and let them know if it started up again. Well here we are a week later and its leaking again. What can the issue be??? All I can think of is that they are screwing it up, or the vent tube is blocked maybe. Any ideas? Second question. Last few days it seemed like my trans is shifting a little different. Not totally sure, just kinda seems it. Anyway I decided to check the fluid to make sure it wasn't low. I have 5 qts in it so I just loosened the plug and some fluid ran out. I have the OEM fluid in it btw. Anyway, the fluid that ran out was sparkly. Should I be worried?? That fluid only has about 3 or 4K miles on it, fresh from when the clutch was changed and trans seals and input shaft replaced. Should I be looking at adding a filter? Or is the trans about to grenade?

Well thanks everyone for all the helpful advice and tips! I did get them done today. I used greaseable SKF's from Napa. I must say that was A LOT of work! I totally understand now why some of you recommended getting them done. It was really a pain to get the retaining clips seated in and then get the joint to loosen up. I had to use a punch and chisel to get them to seat, plus some tapping with the correct size socket and hammer. I basically ruined one of the joints by cutting the seal. One of the joints was slightly crooked and I tried to tap a cap on, it cut that sliver of the seal right off. I know I probably should have torn it back out and got another one, but I figured its greasable so it will probably last a good while anyway. We'll see how that actually works out lol. Also had kind of an unfortunate discovery, the forward most joint, where the driveshaft exits the transfer case, one side of that joint, I forget which, was not very tight in the yoke. I mean it was tight, it went in tight, but with the clips out, and the new joint in place, it would move back and forth about an 1/8 of an inch by hand! I don't think its loose enough to have any play, but still not something I wanted to find. What do you guys think? I just went out and checked and there is no play in they joint, at least none that I can feel by grabbing the end of each shaft and trying to twist the joint. Just some extra pics of everything. I used sand paper on the holes to clean them up. I also used a round file a few times to get rid of some nicks from pressing the joint to far. Nothing major though and the file cleaned it up nice. I had to get that vice grip super tight and then hammer on it while turning it to get those caps off. It kinda sucks too because I did all that work because I thought the rearmost u joint was going bad and it turns out none of them were that bad. I mean they were old and rusting and the grease in them was black, but they weren't that bad. And they were spicer non greasable.

All of your mods look great man! I really like that exhasust heat shield. It says in your sig you have an edge comp, but isn't that the juice monitor on your pillar, or is that just a monitor? I'm also curious about the black filter looking thing by the front passenger side of your transmission?

lol oh ok I didn't realize he was saying thats the cause. I though he was just using it as an example. Thanks for that haha

So I called around a to a few places. It sounds like everyone is going to either use a hammer on the u joints, or use the c clamp style press like I have on loan. So there is no point in my getting someone else to do what I can do. Only reason would be to get it balanced at the same time, but I don't have any reason to think it needs balanced at this point. Katoom you you have really got me wondering what the issue is if not the u joints. I already have a new carrier bearing so it's not that. I just rotated my tires so I don't know how it could be anything to do with them...unless it's over inflation maybe....don't keep me in suspense dude lol

Thanks for the advice! I can appreciate your recommendation on having a driveline shop do it, but I have a hard time trusting anyone else to be more careful than I will after some of my experiences. I have a friend who is experienced to help so I'll think we'll be ok. As as far as the shake, yes it is similar to what you describe. Not sure if it's isolated to the rear or not. It's not horrible, but it is enough to bounce you around a bit. I would say it is between 37 and 42 mph. What do you think is the cause if not the u joints??