leathermaneod

hmmmm. Well I guess if you guys aren't concerned then I shouldn't be either. The whole "most engine wear occurs at startup" thing just really sticks in my mind. This is a hard pill to swallow lol But then again I don't want to risk damaging my engine by inadvertently dumping a mouse turd in the filter either so I guess this is a pick your poison situation lol

Wow that is quite a bit. I guess one rebuilt by them is probably a lot better than a comparably priced new one though. I like that idea about disabling the vp while getting the pressure up. Only question is, how exactly should it be done? Crank for so many seconds then fire it up? I mean without a mechanical gauge there would be no good way to know for sure when the pressure is up...

So you sent your turbo to them for a rebuild? If you don't mind asking, about how much did that set you back? Between the rebuild and the wheel? I have a rebuild kit from DAP sitting on my shelf, but I'm holding off for now because I decided the turbo wasn't that bad, and I need a new comp wheel because mine is nicked. I always wonder how critical it was to get it balanced though.... I do watch very closely when I fill the filter, but now you guys are making me think I should give up that practice. It just scares me knowing that that filter has to fill all the way up before the engine can get oil. I know it takes a second or two even on my Hondas before the low oil pressure light goes out....

That's kinda what I thought, but I always like to get a second opinion. Thank you!

What compressor wheel did you replace yours with? OEM? I like the Fleetguard filters from Geno's because they come sealed in plastic, not just in a box. So I'm guessing you do not fill filters then?

Here's one more question on the pyrometer probe. Autometer sent me a new probe, fitting, and harness so that I could replace mine just incase. It was free so I'm going to do it. Question is, the probes are the same style, so do I need to pull the fitting out of the manifold and replace that with the new one that came with the new probe, or should I just leave it and put the new probe in it?

Well I'm glad I'm not the only one then lol. That's another thing I like about Valvoline oil jugs, the seal comes off very easily and completely.

So the drain back valve is to prevent clean oil from being pulled through the filter and back to the oil pan? I always thought it was to keep it from flowing backwards.... So do you fill your filters Mike? I was always taught to fill it if you could. Obviously if the filter is sideways or located somewhere really hard to reach you can't, but that's not the case with ours.... I am aware that it is very important to make sure nothing gets in the center of the filter if you do fill it that way...ive read quite a few different places where it was claimed that according to Cummins, little bits of the foil seal of an oil jug cause way more major engine damage by plugging an oil nozzle, than the KDP ever did....

Thanks for those links! Does anyone else out there not fill their filter on these engines? I was always taught it was important with such a large filter. Maybe that's completely wrong?

Interesting. Maybe I just never saw it before since most oils I buy don't have white jugs. I just worry about if that sediment gets dumped into the center of the filter when filling it. In that case it would go right to the engine.... do do you know of any studies or comparisons done that included the cam2 oil? Or do you know if it uses group 4 base stock for their synthetic?

Well thanks for all the info and opinions guys. Very appreciated as always! I hadn't heard of the Cam2 before. I'll have to look into it. Guess maybe I should do an analysis this time and see what happens. Would finding the sediment looking stuff in the bottom of the jug of traveler have bothered you guys?

This is just a thought, but I'm curious, what would have happened with your analysis had you run the Dino 15/40 in the winter and compared that to the 5/40? Or did you? Basically I'm wondering if it saved you some wear in the cold weather, that's what really worries me because of living here in upstate NY. Even when I go back to southeastern PA here in the next two years, it still gets pretty cold there....I'm pretty good about plugging the truck in, but I can't at work. It's not cold all year long of course, but it gets pretty darn cold for quite a while. Last week it was still in the 40°s. I have also toyed with the idea of switching back to Dino in the summer, but wasn't sure if that was good to go back and forth like that. I have also used traveler in the past, but one time got to the bottom of a 2.5 gallon jug to find some kind of sediment looking stuff at the bottom. So that was the end of that. Not sure how big a deal it was, but it sure didn't seem right. I also have some rotella t left over so I could use that again too. I also always figured the synth cleans the engine better. I wish I could find a decent 15/40 synth that wasn't too expensive, but all I know of is Amsoil. As as far as the Hondas, mine are an 04, and an 06. I'm honestly not sure what the OCI is supposed to be, I'd have to look in the manual lol. But I've been using valvoline high mileage synth blend, and just switched to high mileage full synth, and the Bosch distance plus filters from Walmart. I guess I could look into the super tech, my dad uses it, I've just always heard such good things of valvoline idk....my civic just hit 200k and my crv has 146k and just got back from driving it to Florida and back. Didn't use hardly any of the valvoline full synth.

I didn't even read your sig lol. I would def get a BHAF or similar on there. My truck came with the air raid intake and k&n filter on it. I did a lot of research and it seemed the best option for me was the stock air box, so I bought one off eBay for about $100. Then I got to reading bout them sucking in dirt at the corners. On top of that, I opened the hood one day to find the filter minder partially sucked down(yes the filter was new and clean). I reset it thinking it was a fluke, but soon after, after a pretty high boost run I saw it had happened again and sucked down even further this time, so I ordered up a donaldson BHAF from Vulcan and printed out the template for the heat shield. I ended up making it out of 3/16" diamond plate I think, and wrapped the edge with weather stripping, so it looks pretty sweet in my opinion. I was brought up on 3000 mile intervals so I've only recently started going up to 4-5k even with synthetic lol. It is crazy expensive though. Costs about $100 an oil change for my truck, and about $45 each for my Honda Civic and CR-V...Mike keeps telling me I should go 7500 though so maybe I'll go a little longer this time...

Wow so I guess I'll only be using oem stuff until the dealers run out of it. Then I'll have to switch to that stuff....at least it's $10 per qt cheaper lol hopefully it's as good for these transmissions...

Lol now I really can't wait for him to jump in here. I am also one for brand loyalty. I finally have all Valvoline right now except for the tans which only gets the OEM stuff, and t case which has Napa. Although they told me Valvoline makes there ATF. Oh here's another slightly related question. Has anyone seen/run the nv4500 fluid from quad 4x4? It's supposed to be a slightly cheaper acceptable alternative to the oem....

I wonder why that is though? I mean it can't be that synthetic users aren't making it to 500k can it?

Wow that's awesome! I love seeing old first gens in good shape! I would LOVE to own one! I recently saw one on Maryland Craigslit with about 120k that was in show room condition. It looked AMAZING! Beautiful brow and tan two tone. Dude was asking 23k for it. Anyway back to the oil. What I don't get about synth vs conventional is, isn't it a proven fact that the synth oil, especially lighter like 5w, gets flowing to the engine parts faster than the 15w-40 conventional? Especially in cold temps with no heater. Also doesn't it stick to the parts better while the engine is off so it's not so dry at start up? And if it so, then how is it not worth it to go with the synth for these trucks? I'm not at all trying to argue here, just trying to learn something new as usual is there something bad about the synth? Other than price of course... btw here's a link to that 1st gen if you wanna look at the pics http://baltimore.craigslist.org/cto/5560843099.html

Do you start your truck in those temps without being plugged in though?

Do you remeber why the Valvoline synth was ranked lowest out of the three? Just curious.... I too am running the 5w-40 synth for the cold flow characteristics, but it sure is expensive! And sometimes I still wonder if it's best or not....

Ok sounds good thank you!

Yes I know. Anytime I hear of someone running a K&N (oil or air) I cringe, even on a gasser. All I can say is hold it up to the sunlight sometime. Thanks to all your good info I am running a Donaldson BHAF. Unfortunately, prior to that my truck had a K&N, and before that I believe an air raid, but I don't know for how long. So that's the one I should be looking for then? I've seen the elf on the web recently that's why I'm confused....is the dbl better in some way?

If I'm not mistaken it is oil change interval. I too appreciate the amount of work a lot of members put into research on what is best for our trucks

That's incredible. I wanna know what oil, filter, and OCI he was using? Did he need any major engine work in that time?

Who makes the DBL7349?

That's awesome lol. Kinda crazy, but still awesome. Can't wait for AH64 to chime in here, because now I'm interested in the Fleetguard LF9028 as well. Apparently it combines a bypass and a full flow into one. Probably way more than I need, but still I can't help but wanting the best lol. I'll probably end up just switching to the ELF7349. Sounds like the best bang for the buck.