leathermaneod

Ok, well I guess I should move it then....guess I'll find out what the difference is. What do I need to know about drilling and tapping an exhaust manifold?

Well I just dont know if it's worth it or if things will break and I'll regret it haha. Also wonder if I can reuse the probe or not. I wonder how much hotter the back three are getting...

That explains everything! Well what do you think Mike? Leave it alone, plug and re tap, or get a new manifold?

Yes that's what I was thinking but idk which three fire either haha. Well that's two people now that told me they would leave it so maybe I should listen lol. I guess if you guys wouldn't worry about it I shouldn't either. I was just concerened about how much hotter those rear cylinders might be getting....

Just a normal npt plug? No thread sealant could stand those temps I assume? Can I reuse the original pyro probe or would I need a new one? See that's what concerns me, I do not have an EB, but my 3 cyl temp is way low, like around 175-200 if I remeber right. The truck still warms up just fine though. Could that be due to the probe location?

That's true. I'm just worried about it since everyone always says to put it in the back. I can't believe I never realized it before. I always thought it was in the correct spot. Next questions then are can you plug one hole and use a new one without issues, or should I just get a new manifold? If so which one? Three piece? Do you have the hi idle switch to know what temp your at in 3 cyl mode?

I was going to add something in mine, but the 4" pvc coupling I got was a little too big, and I wasn't sure about usin aluminzed exhaust pipe in there so I didn't. Plus like you said it seems to seal ok. The collar on the Donaldson BHAF is pretty stiff...

Well just reading some of the comments about premature engine rebuilds earlier in this thread had me concerned that I didn't add any kind of stiffener inside the filter collar. It seemed pretty stiff to me so I didn't bother. Do you add anything?

Interesting. Hopefully some more will chime in here with their BHAF setup.

I know right?? I would live in them during the summer if my wife didn't hate them so much. They are my house and boat shoes mostly.

That's an idea. Well truck usually idles at about 250° to 280°. 3 cyl high idle is lower, around 175° or 200° if I remeber right. maybe the probe in the wrong location explains that? Not sure which cylinders fire in 3 cyl? Today on my way to work it's raining and about 35°, and my drive is mostly rural highway. Highest my egts got was a little over 800° in fifth gear climbing a decent grade at about 60mph with 12-15 psi of boost. Normally at about 65mph or so on the interstate I see 600° to 700° on flat and small hills. But it get up in the 900° to 1000° range for some of the really steep hills. Sorry I don't know grades... I also noticed the other day with the comp on 3x5 accelerating hard and about 30-35 psi I think I may have hit 1100°, might have been a little lower but def hit 1000°. What do you all think?

Lol idk I figured just a steel plug...I really have no idea though I'm hoping someone who knows a lot more than me will chime in because a new manifold is definitely not happening anytime soon. I don't even wanna drill a new hole and move the probe. So I'm hoping for some opinions on how much hotter those rear cylinders are as well as advice on how to fix it.

Yep that's what I thought. So any ideas on how much my pyro is off? In the future it would be nice to drill and tap the back one and just plug the current hole, but for now I'd just like a ball park estimate of how much hotter the rear cylinders are....

Yeah that's what I was thinking too, as far as the mark. And thanks I love crocs haha

Yeah I know dude. I appreciate the thought anyway, and I'm glad to have you guys to talk to about this stuff anyway. Hopefully Eric will have some insight tomorrow. Its crazy how those stupid rubber lined washers seal up so easily but these darned things are such a pain! They've got to be defective, wrong angle or something! I'm no stranger to fixing leaks either. I had about this much trouble with injector lines before and I got them with the scotch brite trick and lots of patience. But this is just insane.

I just don't know what to do at this point. Even if they are sealed up for now, its going to have to come off at least the VP end in the near future when I take my vac pump off to re seal it....and they who knows if ill ever get it to stop again. I mean these shouldn't be this hard right??? They should just seal like all the other ones on my truck do! I don't know man. I'll definitely be doing my best to get the scoop from Eric tomorrow. A few things I do know, these are steel. I've taken apart and resealed brass and steel 3/8" ones countless times with absolutely now issue. Don't even have to make them that tight! This just doesn't make sense.

You are correct with the location. But ok I was also contemplating a 4" PVC coupling, but it was just too big to fit...

All of these fittings came from vulcan. The exact ones you posted the link for. They sealed up perfectly fine back in november when I installed the big line kit for the first time. I take it apart to add a needle valve and nothing will seal back up without a huge fight. Thats why I want a brass version lol. Ive never had trouble like this with any of the other jic fittings on my truck, and some of them have been apart quite a few times. I'm really starting to wonder if the new set Eric sent me are bad too. This is how I left things today, back to the original routing of the hose.... Mine weren't off and on that much though...They have been now, but they weren't before when they first started leaking....and I'm sure I'm not stronger than you guys, but I told you I was making them insanely tight trying to stop the leaks... The previous pics were of one of my original fittings, these are from the new ones Eric sent me on friday. They aren't quite as horrible, but they still have a defined line where they met. I'm starting to wonder if he has a bad lot or something.

Here you go

Do you guys run a piece of 4 inch exhaust inside the collar of a normal Donaldson BHAF? I thought about it when I put mine on a few thousand miles ago, but I was worried about the aluminizing possibly flaking off and getting sucked in. Not sure if that can happen or not? It also didn't seem necessary as the collar on the Donaldson is pretty stiff. After reading some of your comments about premature engine rebuilds and BHAF's I'm second guessing things....

So I have another pyrometer question. I realized today, while working on my fuel leak, that the dude that installed the pyro in my truck tapped the manifold on the wrong side! Meaning the front side of the manifold outlet rather than the rear. Anyone have an idea on how much hotter the back side normally is? Also, if i wanted to fix this, could I just plug that spot and drill and tap the rear side?

Well after spending quite a bit more time with it again today, I think I may have got the leak stopped. We'll see after I drive it to work tomorrow. I started with the old JIC 90*'s and adapters. Couldn't get the one at the FF housing to stop leaking so I switched back to a new adapter after cleaning it with scotch brite. Here is what the one I took out looked like pretty obvious why I wouldn't seal up. You can see sections where it didn't press together like it should have. The question is why not? There is no way these things should have to be this tight and still not be compressing together. The other thing I think is odd about those, shouldn't the surfaces be touching more than just a tiny strip like that? Is there any chance one of these is a 37* and one is a 45*?? Also, anyone ever seen a brass pushlok tapped 90*. Thats what I really need lol. I'm planning to call Eric again tomorrow and see what he thinks about this as well as if he can get brass versions of these fitting.

I actually tried putting a little wd40 on them this time to see if it helps. Yes I wanted to keep a test port for my test guage for those times when I'm having issues and need to confirm pressure. You put 545 on the threads of the jic fittings?

It's leaking from between the swivel and the body of the fitting, the 90°s at each end. And I'm normally impatient too but I'd really hate to have it leak from one of those spots right after I finally get it to stop from the swivels.

It was still leaking and it was physically impossible for me to tighten the one at the vp anymore. It was so tight I almost couldn't get it off. I understand what your saying about making it tighter than you like, but believe me, this was over the top. Something was wrong. I cleaned up the ends with scotch brite and switched back to the old fittings and the original routing of the hose, I think it puts a little less tension on the fittings this way. I never had trouble with leaks till I change the angle of the hose so at this point it's worth a try anyway. I'm just waiting overnight for the 545 to dry again and then I'll be finding out tomorrow if it's fixed or not. I know ive got a lot going on, but I don't really see how I could simplify it. I've got the street 90°' the needle valve, the snubber, and the npt to jic. The hose goes to my isolator. All of which I need. Up to this point, none of those fittings has caused a leak, so I'm not too concerned about them. I'm just hoping brake cleaner doesn't degrade the 545 too much because I used it to clean that assembly out after taking it apart to switch back to the old tapped 90°. I blew it out with the compressor to be safe so hopefully it's ok. Than you for the suggestions!!