leathermaneod

Thanks for the explanation! I always like learning more about the VP!

Thanks for the input! It's looking like I'm going to have to order online after all so I should be able to get whatever material I want. I've called every local place I can think of with no luck.

In that case I wonder why it is that the alternators in these trucks have so many issues with AC noise. Or is it just that the VP and other electronics in these trucks are uncommonly sensitive to AC? With regard to to the fuel temp, I just meant shouldn't the fuel be significantly hotter when the tank is at 1/8 vs 3/4?

Interesting. With so many heat related failures from low fuel volume/pressure I would think the code would be more common. I wonder if that temp sensor is unreliable or the threshold for high fuel temperature is just too high. Does make me wonder with what Dieselfuture said about his temp being the same with fuel tank full or empty. I was pretty sure the fuel would be quite a bit warmer when the tank is on the low side. What do you think Mike?

I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe the vp44 has a temp sensor built in and can put the truck in limp mode if it gets too hot.

Thanks for the tip and the info! I wonder if a sight glass with a reflector would be better or worse for keeping it clean? I'm having a hard time finding these locally so I'm probably going to have to order off the net. I wanna try my best to get it right the first time.

Sweet thanks for the info! Hopefully it's the same size and thread as well. That would really be convenient.

I didn't know the quad had a fuel temp?! That's cool man! I just figured the fuel is hotter on a low tank because one time since I had my fuel boss I ran the tank really low on a long trip. When I got off the highway to get fuel my pressure dropped from 17 at cruising speed to like 13-14 at idle. It scared me at first, but when I filled up with fuel, everything went back to normal so I assumed it was due to the fuel being heated up and getting a lot thinner. Maybe I was wrong?

Thank you! I'll have to do some more digging on that. I've also still got to find a good source for sight glass plugs. Anyone have any input on what material the plug should be? Does it need to match the case material i.e. steel for the trans and diffs and aluminum for the t case?

Thank you! I'll keep your suggestions in mind.

Don't keep us in suspense man!

Thanks for the tip! sounds like a good plan.

Hey all, Getting ready to replace my rear driveshaft U joints. I know the rearmost one is going bad because the caps were a little hard to spin when we had it out to do my clutch. I figured if Im doing one, I might as well do all three. I also have a slight shaking that happens right around 40 mph, and I'm hoping replacing the U joints will take care of it. I helped my dad with U joints before, but it was a while ago, so I just wanted to see if anyone has any tips/tricks to share. I know to mark the driveshaft and keep it in the same orientation. I'm also planning to rent a press from autozone. I know some will say to just use a hammer, but I'm a little worried about bending things. As far as new U joints go, I'm looking at SKF's from NAPA. They are greasable, which is what I want. Anything else I should know? Or recommendations for better U joints? Thanks!

Lol we must have been posting at the exact same time with the same link. I'll certainly keep the thread updated for you. I do hope someone else chimes in that knows the size on the t case though. Maybe it's the same as the trans. I guess the diffs might even be the same too. Only thing I'm a little concerned about would be getting a brass one. I'm not sure if it would stand up to how tight those plugs sometimes need to be...

Yes something like that would be just the thing. I'm just not sure of the best place to get one. I was looking at this site so far https://m.mscdirect.com/mobileweb/category?catId=12107797&searchTerm= or this https://m.grainger.com/mobile/product/LUBE-Gage-1U917 I just wasn't sure if there is anything in particular I should look for.

I overfill all that stuff by as much as I can get squirted in the fill hole, and I filled the trans through the shift tower with and extra qt. I figure with the sight glass, if I can see fluid, it's good. If not, I have to add.

Hey guys, I was thinking today and I decided it would be very convenient to have a sight glass in my nv4500 fill plug and my nv241dhd fill plug. Maybe eventually the front and rear diffs as well. Now I know from Mike's thread that the trans fill plug is 3/4 npt. What I don't know is, the t case fill plug size, and diff fill plug size. I'm also wondering if anyone has input on anything special to look for or avoid with a sight glass for this specific application? Also, anyone have a good source for these? thanks!

Hopefully FASS can hook you up with a quick and easy and hopefully free solution.

I wouldn't totally discount still having air in the lines as a cause for the gauge being slow to build pressure. Wether it was/is caused by an air leak or low fuel issue, you can't rule it out yet. Like with my truck, it takes a few days of driving to purge all that air, for me that's around 200-300 miles. In the future I would say try to avoid going lower than 1/4 tank. It will help reduce the likely hood of dirt getting sucked in as well as prevent possible air issues. The fuel also starts to get pretty warm when you have so little left in the tank and it won't be able to cool the vp44 as effectively. Just my opinions of course.

Oh ok that's good. I would think they will help you out then. They have a very good customer support webpage with emails and phone numbers for their guys.

As far as the overflow valve opening, I believe you are correct that it should stay open at all times when pressure is above 14 psi. However, I think FASS was saying that it might be hanging up due to age, or that it might be slightly out of spec and so the pressure my pump was putting out was right at the open/close threshold. Honestly though, I think what Dieselfuture is saying makes more sense. I think I've read about guys having similar problems before and fixing it with a new spring. Also the problem of the ball geting pushed into the spring sounds familiar to me. Unfortunately, unless you just bought the system, I don't see them giving you a new spring for free, but I'm pretty sure they are not expensive, as in a few bucks.

notlimah, I think I may be able to provide an answer to both of your issues as I have experienced both, the first for sure anyway. First, your gauge not registering pressure until after startup is an indication of air in the lines, in my experience. Mine will do that for a few days any time I open the lines to adjust my bypass valve. Once all the are is out, you should see the gauge spike up and fall when the pump primes at key on, and then it should build pressure very quickly when the truck starts. As for the second issue, I had, I believe, the exact same issue back when I had my old FASS lift pump. From what I remember the pressure would just jump around a couple psi in the 15-18 range while driving along with an even throttle. I asked the FASS tech department what would cause it and they were very helpful. They told me it was most likely the overflow valve at the VP44 opening and closing, and that there was no reason to worry about it. I can't absolutely confirm that, but I never found anything to disprove it. You could try replacing the valve or upping your pressure a bit though, and see if either helps. Good luck!

You could try a new radiator cap....I'm not sure how a bad one would affect temperature, but they are cheap from Geno's....

Wow that's impressive. Is that with the raptor or the FASS 150?

I wonder if the difference in fluid from what others are using is causing the temperature difference, or if it's the location of your probe?