leathermaneod

I am using a Donaldson bhaf, but the po had a k&n :-( but do you think there is metal floating around in there that needs to be flushed out? Or is that just wear metal that got pulled to the magnet on the drain plug and so removed from the oil? I mean it's not like I saw pieces of metal in the oil....if I didn't have that aftermarket drain plug from Geno's I would never have found this....that stuff was very fine....

How early? This oil change was just under 3000 miles because I wanted to switch to synth before the cold hits. I was planning to go 5000 on this one....

Thanks again for the info! Moparman,Would you be concerned about the metal residue on the drain plug magnet that I have pictured?

Ok thanks, I'll check the in and out play next time I have it apart, didn't think of that today. I did push on the shaft like you said and it didn't seem to rub. I don't idle that much. I do let it warm up for 10 mins sometimes before driving but not a lot I don't think. What do you think of the metal wear on the magnet of the drain plug?Normal or something to panic about?

Hi all, While changing my oil today I checked up on my turbo health. It has had a slight internal oil leak since I got it as you can see. So I decided to check for play in the shaft and it has a little bit. Nothing major, no metal shavings in there, but it has some play. How long can I keep running this thing? Truck is mainly just a DD right now. Also can it be rebuilt or does it have to be replaced? Can anyone recommend a rebuild kit or good a replacement turbo? I don't plan to make crazy power so I don't necessarily want to upgrade unless someone has a really compelling reason. It is for the truck in my sig. I am also curious about this. Clearly that is some very fine metal wear and it was caught on my magnetic drain plug from Geno's. Is it anything to be concerned about?

mine is an 01 with a build date of July 2000

Hi all, Does anyone have the part number for the OEM dodge tow hooks? I am trying to find them online but its proving to be very very hard without a part number. I would also be interested in any bolt on, clean looking aftermarket solution anyone has come up with. Thanks

So you need a whole new bar or just a bushing at the end?

Wow that would suck. Hopefully that's not it. I've had quite a few people say theirs is the same way. Seems unlikely that such a heavy duty axle would be that prone to failure...thanks for the tip That's interesting because I think mine has only just started doing it as well. How do you know if your track bar is shot? And which one is the track bar? I also recently had the left side axle seal replaced. i wonder if they didn't get something back together right and that is causing it somehow...

What do you mean banana out?

there is a pic for you all. You are correct TFaoro. That spot was covered with oil from my vacuum pump leak when I first saw it lol thank you all for the help! It's kind of weird though because I replaced the fluid in the front diff this summer and I don't think it was like that then. I wonder if it was caused by going over some rough road or railroad tracks or something. The tie rod does twist and flex on the ends as it should but it doesn't hit the diff when the wheels are straight. It gets pretty close though my finger doesn't fit too easily.

Hi all, got under the truck to check the front diff for leaks today and noticed it looks like the tie rod must rub slightly at times(there is a slight scuff mark/paint free spot). Should I be concerned? If so how do I fix this?

Ok thanks!

Is it harmful to start the truck in mpg mode when it is cold enough that the grids would run? I tried it today at 35° to see how it would start. It turned over and started quicker than if the grids had run but it had kinda of a big cough immediately after it fired off....

Thanks for the reply, figured I'd update this incase anyone needs help in the future. I emailed posi lock about the issue. They responded very quickly and asked that I call them at my earliest convenience. I did and they were very helpful. The person I spoke with was very knowledgable about the posi lock and explained exactly how it works and what his best guess was as to the cause of the problem. He said he thought either the cable needed to be adjusted, or the switch was going bad. He also explained how to adjust the cable. A new switch is available from Fastnel. The brand very specific and and is Pollak, part number 21-435. However, it is $40. I decided to try adjusting the cable first. I did this by removing the housing from the axle and screwing the housing farther onto the end of the cable. This seemed to help quite a bit so thats how I'm going to leave it for now. Basically, if adjusting the cable doesnt work, the switch is bad.

Ok thanks again. Just wanted to be sure all is as it should be.

Ok got another question. I was under the impression that the grids shouldn't cycle if the truck is started in mpg mode? Mine are....is that normal?

Thanks for the replies guys! And thanks again for coming up with this and making it available for us!

Hi all, I have the POSI Lock cable actuator for my 4x4. I didn't install it, it was on the truck when I bought it. I am wondering if anyone else who has one has had issues with the 4x4 indicator light coming on when its not engaged? When I bought the truck the light didn't work. I soon figured out that it just wasn't connected and fixed it. After that the light would sometimes flicker while driving, but I could usually fix it by twisting the cable until it was snug. Today the light was on but very faintly and I couldn't get it to go off. If I pulled the cable it would come on all the way, but when I pushed it in it would stay on very faintly. Later in the day I had the batteries unplugged for a good while as I installed my new Mopar1973man High Idle Switch. After reconnecting the batts the light is off and no more issue. I am concerned that the collar could be partly engaging and that it will be damaged from driving with it partially engaged. Has anyone else dealt with this? Can I just open up the CAD and fix it somehow so its not so sensitive? Thanks in advance!

Hey guys, I received my new high idle switch today and got it installed! It took me way longer to install it than it should have because Im so OCD about how my wires are routed. Finally got it done and I love it! So far it works great! I can definitely notice a difference in the sound of the engine with the MPG fooler, much quieter! I do have a few questions though. First, there is a little tab that points toward the face of the switch on one side. I assume it is there to dig in and keep the switch from turning. However, it seems a little long and bends the switch quite a bit when you tighten the nut. Can I trim it a little with a pair of cutting pliers so it doesn't bend the switch so much? It squished the little detents and makes the switch harder to turn. Second, I thought EGT's should be higher in 3 cyl mode than just idling normally? Mine are about 50-75 degrees lower, about 200-225 or so, and it was about 50* outside on top of that...Is there something wrong? or is this just because I don't have an exhaust brake? Thanks in advance and thank you for making such a great product!

Does your fuel pressure drop a pound or two as you let the clutch out? Maybe I should ask if you start out in second and if you let the clutch out without giving it fuel? I usually start out in second and let the clutch out without fuel because I feel like it slips it less. When I do that my fuel pressure drops a pound or so. I assume thats because the rpms are slowing down just a bit. I do like the fuel boss very much, I am just overly OCD about having things perfect so I've had a hard time getting the pressure exactly where I want it.

Great thanks again!

Ok so I know we cover the operation of the high idle switch in depth yesterday but I came up with one more question that I don't think we covered. If I start my truck in 3 cyl mode, let it warm up, then I want to switch to mpg mode for the drive to work. Can I do that without shutting off the truck? I know it will resume 3 cyl when I get there, if coolant temp drops below 170°, but will mpg mode work just by turning the switch?

I had quite a bit of trouble with mine. I had lots of dirt right after the install and then I continued to have trouble and had to add a fuel strainer right before the valve. Since I added the strainer its been ok though. I need to clean my fuel tank :-) Ive also taken it apart many many times trying to get it to just the right pressure without it being too high.

Thanks for the reply IBMobile. Nice to talk to someone with a similar setup. I have a mechanical only setup. No electric what so ever. Are you using the included bypass valve? If so did you tune it at all?