NightHawk

Well everyone, I will sum up this weekend's work in the following manner. To answer the quick question....no its not road worthy yet and that's a sore subject.... Enjoy and a true update with photos to come this week. Sat Start: 25% thru Weekend: 50% thru Weekend: 75% thru Weekend: (after 3 trips to the store....) Sunday Evening:

Well, the truck is ready for the manual trans install next weekend ! Tear down/decommissioning of the auto took me about 5hrs worth of work. I did not take any photos as i was way too dirty to handle my phone. Post any questions in this thread if you have them and I will do my best to answer.

Few Pictures from today's work - total time spent was 1 1/4 hrs due to other commitments. The truck is setup in the work shop and the interior (front half) is all removed. Next weekend is the heavy/greasy stuff and all of the parts will be in hand by next Thursday.

Update: Parts ordered and setup/disassemblely set to start Sunday !

? What exactly are you looking for to be answered, so I can make sure to try & best answer that item ? I have mapped out the deconstruction & install sequences, maybe I am not understanding the work required... but it looks pretty straight forward.

Hi Everyone, I have purchased all the components but a clutch/flywheel kit as I am still in debate. I went to a diesel event with a good buddy last night and we got to talking about truck goals. He has an 07 5.9 and is getting ready to build his 48re & add EFI live tunes to be in the 450hp range. This got me thinking that I hadn't really crunched the numbers on my long term goal, as I was so focused on the swap itself. I came up with the following calcs below, does anyone have any impute? Stock Engine = 235hp TS MVP = 65hp @ wheels, roughly 75hp @ crank is considering 15% drain train loss RV275 injectors (future mod) 40hp gain @ crank Small Water/methanol injection (future mod) assuming max 50hp @ wheels, 58hp @ crank That would mean I could roughly have 408hp @ the crank, which is well beyond what I envisioned when thinking about the mods to my truck. I could nix the water/methanol kit but want to keep the stock turbo while having the ability to lower egt's when towing.

Hi Everyone, Well small update, parts order for the big items are being finalized tomorrow with an expected arrival of parts first week of July over three (3) separate shipments. This is getting exciting but i am now nervous about everything working when i get done with the swap....rethinking the computer flashes. The thought is to "make" the truck think its in neutral by keeping the NSS closed for the first bit until i can get the computers flashed. Is that going to bite me?

The main thing i am looking for is a good solid clutch and flywheel combo that matches my trucks power. I dont want to under clutch or worse over clutch the truck. What's the part number for the Luk's kit or do you have a link? I am prob 300hp at the crank with the TSmvp turned all the way up but I don't drive the truck hard or tow heavy. I am deciding between the Valair and a Phoenix Friction as they have nice kits that meet the trucks power.

I am trying to get some insight on the new floor opening for the shiftier. Could a current manual trans owner provide some dimensions from the back of the block (start of bellhousing) to the trans shifter hole along with the width? As of clutch, going with an organic style with a low hp rating to keep pedal effort/easy of use in the friendly area. I should have explained more, but where I currently live the amount of weekend traffic with visitors has traffic sometimes stop/go for 3-5miles, which with a grabby/heavy pedal clutch is painful !

The southbend clutches are very overpriced and there seems to be quite a bit of complaints over noise/driveability (too grabby). Could you explain why you did not like your Valair clutch? I don't drive very miles a yr (last yr was 3800) so wear longevity is not a major concern of mine. I Valair has major function problems will prob go with a Luk Pro Gold before a southbend.

Well...I have decided to breakout my list of parts thru a few different vendors to save some cash & have a clutch question. I need a flywheel (obviously) and am looking at the 13" "conversion" kit from valair. I was going to get the "stock" hp clutch kit NMU70279-5SCE but wanted to know some thoughts. My truck will remain same hp combo as I am doing this conversion to make it more fun to drive for me (no necessarily faster). I would like an exhaust brake in the future so that is the only reason I am considering the next kit up NMU70279-01-5SCE but its more aggressive which doesn't sound appealing (been there/done that with a muscle car).

Well....got the shopping list complete and quotes are in my email. Plan to order parts this week!

I really dislike the anti-stall feature on my daily, so if that can be avoid by not reflashing then . I have a vacuum cruise setup on my truck (early 01). The NSS from the wiring seems to be on the auto trans vs. clutch assembly (makes sense) so my plan is to either extend the wiring to the clutch or extend the wires to a push button in the cab (little anti-left device too). The harness is something i would deal with down the line as it would be a large amount of time i may not have now. I list the components just for everyone's view, the kit comes with everything (including clutch/flywheel). I plan to take measurements this weekend to confirm current trans position & drive shaft length to get confirmation with someone who has a 5 speed already. Was this meant to be a question.....I have ready about 15-20 swap threads and only a few mention T-case linkages (mostly pre-97 swaps) so will investigate.

This is my parts list of what I need to buy (or think) and what items on my truck I can reuse. I am seeking feedback/assistance to help steer me in the right direction! Need to Purchase/Acquire: NV4500 Bellhousing Bellhosuing Components (clutch fork, pivot ball, etc) NV4500 Clutch & Flywheel Clutch Hydraulics Brake & Clutch Pedal Assembly NNV4500 (Trans Itself) NV4500 shift Tower NV4500 Shifter NV4500 Trans Mount NV4500 Neural Safety Switch NV4500 Back-up Light Switch NV4500 to NP241 HDH 29 Spline Impute Shaft NV4500 Lower & Upper Boot Assembly Front Driveshaft (have to verify at time of install) Parts Being Reused: · Transmission Crossmember from 47re (research says they’re the same) · Transfercase (I have an NP241DH) · Rear Driveshaft (have to verify at time of install) · Steering Column (remove shift leaverfrom column) · ECM with no reflash (have to verify) · PCM with no reflash (have to verify) · Main Harness

I am open to doing an article write up on the conversion. I have a parts list and brief steps already created from online research. Will post details and gray area questions later

Hello Everyone, Well over Memorial Day Weekend the 47re began its slide to the point of no return on my way back from my camping trip. I knew this day would come when I purchased the truck (mechanical items don't last forever) so its no real surprise (still feels like this though ). Taking that into consideration, I have always planned to convert my rig over to manual as I am a 3 peddle guy. I am not concerned with the $$ (sort of) but am really concerned about doing it right with a solid end product. I decided on the nv4500, so I will be needing help from all of you 5 speed owners (or past 5 spds). The goal of this thread is to seek knowledge from those who performed the conversion and for getting items clarified prior to the truck being torn down. My timeline is to have the conversion complete for m Aug camping/fishing trip so i better get on it ! Thanks in advance and this week I am creating the shopping list which I plan to post for advice/confirmation. The first links below is what I am considering, any thoughts? http://www.high-impact.net/NV4500 into an 94 and Up Dodge Truck with 5.9L Cummins.htm http://www.midwesttrans.com/Dodge_ Auto_NV4500_5_Speed_Conversion_Transmission.html

I 100% agree the turbo setup is not utilizing the fuel in the manner it should to achieve the power goal. However more then enough air vs. a complete burn condition (cleanup) is a total different discussion from my experience. I don't want to derail but so often watching friends and folks in the diesel world over-fueled trucks thinking it will make more power when a leaner condition does better. The problem with a leaner condition (haze at WOT) is that it tends to run hotter which why people add more fuel to counteract the condition. @TFaoro I still think a 4 hour dyno session is your best option to play with turbo & quad settings.

Just , if you think your setup can clean up a set of 7x.010 injectors then you are making well beyond your 500ish dyno numbers. I rather have air > fuel in a setup to allow for room to grow later once a setup gets dialed in. The fact that adjusting the wastegate setting doesn't affect a whole lot makes me wonder if the turbo's aren't playing well together. Check out this thread (if you haven't already).as i find it interesting on people's combos. http://www.competitiondiesel.com/forums/showthread.php?t=153825

Please do not take offense to this statement, but you are using the dyno incorrectly. The dyno is a tuning tool and while it measures output, the benefit is being able to see how your changes affect your power output in real time. My suggestion for your proceeds forward are below, as while it may not provide the answers you seek at this time it will enable you to find them. Swap the 7X.013 injectors to 7x.010, as you are not going to be short of fuel to achieve a 550-600hp rig. The worse thing you can do is over injector/nozzle your rig as its not a CR were fuel can be pulled from the tune. 7x.010 are a good choice for a street/tow truck that has drive-ability while still making good power. Rent dyno time and focus on tuning your truck (fuel/air) to find out what combo makes the most power while having the best all around drive-ability. If in your shoes, I would start on air side as from the post previous in this thread you are having issues with the compound setup. I would remove any electronic stacks and just use a single tuning box (quad) and only turn on boost fooling/timing. Once you get the compounds happy (drive pressure vs spoolup) start adding the fuel via quad in small steps. As you know, adding fuel will change turbo setup up (wastegates) but at-least you had a starting point to build off of when working in small steps.

I have two questions. What size are you injectors, not by "hp"? Do you have the ability to drop in a different turbo then the 62?

However, I posted the Stainless video to show a point - high rpm isn't necessary as they made 1000hp @ 2862rpms. While high rpm has its benefits, why seek to turn higher if its not needed... Check the dyno graph at the end for hp vs rpm, but asking for a single cp3 when ppumps/vps are modified is not a proper comparison in my book...

The discussion has strayed towards rpm on several posts, while the vp can support "600hp" per say and I use in quotations for a few reasons...the fueling available at rpm is the question. The quad, redline, tst comp & edge drag comp all allow for increased rpm, but the vp fuel curve seems to drop off hard after 3500-3800. The design of the pump it stock form does not allow for a lot of plunger refill time before injection events (or so I have read) so that's why the "monster" pump, dragon flow of schield lighting have been created.

In all this discussion, there hasn't been much talk on how the vp pump will react to the custom tuning options if made available. Looking in that regard, these pumps are not high flow/rpm by design so pushing them "beyond" what has been done already seems like an uphill battle. Granted, having control over low end smoke levels and to better "calibrate" large injectors to the pump will be awesome features but don"t discount the mechanical limitations of the pump itself.

I hope i am wrong, but the odds of custom tuning via UDC pro on a vp truck "revolutionizing" how they drive seems like fairy tale land to me. Don't get me wrong, its awesome for the platform to get some attention in the "custom" tuning realm of the industry, but the dino tech with computer intervention (vp pump) doesn't leave a lot on the table to mess with in regards to tuning. Waiting for dyno graphs before spending $$

My guess is it will be a "reduced" version just like Revo is for the vp trucks. I wouldn't wait as you"ll probably just be disappointed.