NightHawk

Hello All, Sorry for the story, but I am confused. After reading all the articles on here with AC Noise Issues/Excessive alternator load, I began disconnecting my grid heaters (at the battery) during the warmer months (40F+). Over the holidays, I took a trip to the mountains for some time in the snow so I hooked back up the grids and first start up the check engine light kicked on. The engine was idling fine, but i noticed the voltage gauge took a long time to recover from the initial grid usage and every trigger (2 times) before I took it down the road to just check things out. At the gas station (5 miles away), I scanned the truck with my Smarty S03 and find a P0122 set with the companion P1693. Scratching my head, i cleared the codes, re-fired and head to the mountains check engine light free/truck ran great. At the end of a long ski day, in cold weather (17F + wind), the truck fired up no issues (or check engine light) but failed to kick onto high idle even though coolant was mid 50s at startup after sitting all day with IAT in the teens. Once again, head out of the mountains check engine light free/truck ran great. This is where it gets odd, the next morning I head to a friends house (32F) and boom, check engine light kicked on voltage gauge took a long time to recover from the initial grid usage. Gritting my teeth (believing it was the same thing) I drove half way (truck was warm) and shutdown to rescan to get a 0122 set with the companion P1693. I clear the codes, refire and check engine light kicks on followed by a extended (but shorter then previous) voltage gauge recover so I drove off in frustration for another 15 miles. After I got to my friends house, I disconnected the grids/double checked my battery cables (they were pretty tight) and cleared the codes. At the end of a day out hiking, I fired up the truck to head back out with zero voltage gauge lag and no check engine light. I have since only driven the truck with out the grids to zero issues. SO - Fellow Form Members - Where should i start the diagnoses hunt? I am leaning towards my alternator (I haven't checked for excessive noise in awhile anyhow) and the batteries are relatively new (replaced them in June). I am afraid at some of the items in a P0122 (ECM/PCM) as that would be like.... a bad day.

Hello All, Its been awhile, I kind of did a "mod" to my truck life that has distracted me for some time now but I still have the old rig / will soon pick-up where i left off as now I need a tow rig! Hope you like the mod......

I took a 150 mile trip this weekend and the results were fantastic! I was able to cruise down the freeway @ 65mph, with the windows crack 2-3 inches for ventilation, the music on low while holding a conversation at normal volume. The "extra" noise from the engine/turbo (no silencer ring) and road is reduced, there is no doubt its a second gen but the cab ride is way less "wearing". I have a few more summer trips planned, don't know if they'll all be in the truck but it gets some redemption points from the other passengers.

The material wasn’t long enough, otherwise I probably would have done that. It spans from the front of the shift boot to the front of the plastic tray underneath the back seat

Wait.....your work benches don't have these....I was lied too . Said it made the workshop look more presentable to guests/friends As promised, the sound deadening under the carpet pictures are below. The install took some time thanks to having to remove the entire interior, however well worth reduced cab noise (no db but ears are happy). Music is a lower volume to where I can have music and a conversation while driving on the freeway . As for install notes, I left the entire sheet as intact as possible, left it "float" under the factory carpet while leaving the factory sound product in place (snug fit but fit well). The product box shows one side foil but in fact both sides are, soo i have no idea but good news is one roll worked with very little left over.

Hi All, I have not forgotten this place, life has distracted me lately (wedding season, vacations, etc.). However, added some under hood sound deadening and thought i would share, made a nice difference in cutting down on excessive engine noise. Few hours work and I think like $65 in material (purchased awhile back). I also added some under carpet deadening which helped make the cab a more enjoyable place on long trips and i will post that tomorrow.

I was having issues after about 150 miles so swapped out to a new filter (stock housing one) and all issues went away. The filter was approx. 1 year old so could be considered due for a change but only had 10,000miles or so. I was having issues after about 150 miles so swapped out to a new filter (stock housing one) and all issues went away. The filter was approx. 1 year old so could be considered due for a change but only had 10,000miles or so. Well my trip is here (Memorial Day Weekend) so the other items will have to wait until i get back, and i realize I only tackled 2 (where does time go?). However this thread isn't done and hope to inspire some to update their trucks to be better performers! 1. Heat wrap downpipe to trans mount (heat / sound reduction goal, manifold & turbo already wrapped) 2. Big Line Kit from filter housing to vp (I have my upgraded fuel pump feed into the stock housing). 3. Traction bars for the rear (goal is improve power transfer / remove axel twist) 4. New front control arm bushings 5. Interior deep clean 6. Additional sound deadening under carpet 7. Updated speaks / stereo (still researching) 8. Attempt to Fix my cruise control 9. Fix my dripping transfercase 10. Valve Adjustment Check and new injector

Made a few more updates / tweaks to the truck this weekend. My trip is getting close (Memorial Day Weekend) so feeling a tad crunched I may not finish all I want before the trip. First, update to the form – traction bars have 150 miles on them now so planning a bolt torque check (per manufacture) this weekend, however zero complaints/all smiles to date. The bars make the truck just take off when you hit the go pedal, feel like I picked up power without add-ons. Weekend Add #01 - Big Line Kit: The kit from Vulcan was an easy install (about 45min) and greatly increased the line size (attached photos) and removed the banjo bolts. However, if I had to re-do it, I think I would have made my own kits as ½” lines seem just overkill for my application. Truck drives / runs fine, but I am getting odd pressure fluctuations which I think are part of the factory filter housing being fed by 3/8” line however I have not adjusted the pump either so probably on me. The pressure has random spikes (up /down) when either jumping on the throttle or off for second or two, then settles. Weekend Add #02 – AFE Intake Tube Kit: I previously had a BHAF tied to the factory air tube and this worked great for many miles but last few truck health checks I started to get concerned over the tube seal. The rubber seemed fine from the outside but in handling the heat cycles seemed to have deteriorated it some which made me suspicious on its seal. So I picked up the AFE tube kit (when on sale) and honestly this should have been done a lot sooner, way better seal and the fit is much sturdier. The price point vs. the seal concern is worth it in my opinion and the turbo sings/spools a tad better.

Hello All, As promised, the traction bar install photos are below and the kit part number is Tuff Country Part # 30995. Overall the install was easy (directions weren’t the best) and took me about 3hrs from start to finish including cleanup. They are 90% bolt in, the front brackets require two ½” holes to be added into the frame for the bolts. I chose these bars because I liked that each end was a rubber bushing which came off as more DD/road friendly then the solid linked bars. I would not consider them high hp or racing bars though, so be aware of your end goals! I put 75 miles on my truck post install and noticed right away the increased rear stability under accel & braking. Once I put more miles on I can report back but believe that these should have gone on much earlier in my truck ownership. Thanks

Hello All, As requested over a few posts, the part numbers for the bushings (measure your sway bars!) are below along with photos of my light upgrade and heat wrap in the engine bay. Photos of the traction bar install to follow later as I have to writeup my install notes still. · Energy Suspension 5.5159G 34mm Front Sway Bar Bushing Set · Quick Steer K3170 Stabilizer Bar Bushing Kit

Hi All, I started this thread to share (maybe inspire, feel free to add posts on your own) fellow 2nd gen owners on the refresh of my truck as while its getting older, I think there are simple ways to make it fit better into the modern world. This mindset started when I started considering buying a 4th gen, and while they are awesome I realized that with a little TLC my 2nd gen could fit better into the modern truck world and I could avoid a truck payment! What I have done thus far: 1. New shocks on all four corners (no pics, sorry) 2. Additional lighting upfront (I can get a picture this weekend) 3. Removed, cleaned and remounted the weather-stripping (no pics, but made a huge diff in wind noise). 4. Replaced the front / rear sway bar bushings (pics below, 100% improvement in ride) Future Items (next few weeks/months) – Will be better on pics! 1. Heat wrap downpipe to trans mount (heat / sound reduction goal, manifold & turbo already wrapped) 2. Big Line Kit from filter housing to vp (I have my upgraded fuel pump feed into the stock housing). 3. Traction bars for the rear (goal is improve power transfer / remove axel twist) 4. New front control arm bushings 5. Interior deep clean 6. Additional sound deadening under carpet 7. Updated speaks / stereo (still researching) 8. Attempt to Fix my cruise control 9. Fix my dripping transfercase 10. Valve Adjustment Check and new injectors

The aspect of greaseable is something that makes a lot of sense for street use and now I will make sure to keep that aspect in mind when searching/building. However I disagree with you on the purpose of ladder or traction bars on a DD/street truck, as the leaf springs can twist under load during DD/towing conditions. The spring wrap up due to high torque is why I wish to add them, as I can feel the draintrain loading/unloading more as the power has been increased, even with just the little 65hp extra. Check out this video, I was surprised at how much movement on stock horsepower.

Hello Everyone, One of my winter projects this year is to refresh some aspects of the truck and I would like to tackle the rear axle sway/wrap in an effort to improve traction & reduce the wear on the other drive-train items from the pinion shift. I have spent several hours searching and cannot find a traction / ladder bar setup for our trucks that has a front swing shackle as to not limit suspension travel. Prior to me fabricating something, does anyone have any links to a company that offers a front swing shackle type traction / ladder bar setup for our truck? Thanks in advance

Nice truck to cave in on, these second genners died off more every yr..... i hate to ask but did you also go auto on us too !

The truck ran okay after the swap when running all of the auto tuning and got progressively better once manual tune was uploaded/pcm codes gone. The smarty s03 can convert an auto ecm to manual ecm, if you dont want to buy an S03 check to see if you can borrow one from someone. The manual version of the pcm should be compatible with the ecm as long as you get the options aligned correctly. As noted earlier in the thread, pcms can in several configurations. As for my pcm fooler harness, i reverse engineered the 47re output signals to figure oit what the computer wanted to know. Took me about 6months on and off to figure it out but just rolled over 4000 miles on my conversation with no yellow engine.

https://www.google.com/amp/s/sf.eater.com/platform/amp/2017/10/12/16464532/north-bay-fire-containment-napa-sonoma-am-intel Check out the link above for latest info. Currently 3500 structures are gone, along with 29 lives lost.

Hello All, Not sure if you have been able to avoid the news frenzy but the Napa/Sonoma fires are no joke. Keep all of those who have lost everything in your thoughts/prayers as they certainly need the support. To answer the questions, yes i am in the "red zone" but far enough away that it shoulf be okay. I have had friends, coworkers, etc. lose their homes thus far. I hope to not have to help my really good friend evacuate but preparing to lend a hand this weekend if called upon.

Oh i agree 100%, in fact in every tuned truck (ford/GM/dodge), the aftermarket tunes seem to always take several rounds to get in "just" right. The quad is a great platform offering customers with endless options, the smarty with revo is an attempt on customization of canned programming which makes it hard to compare the platforms fairly. I was just trying to highlight that we (tinkers on the form) should just respect what each platform offers, not which one someone should own. I am into education of what each can offer vs. trying to sway someone to head one way or another, because well ultimately its their $$ you know? However in an effort to not divert the topic, the canned platform when paired with another canned platform while works, it isn't the most user friendly way to go. The stack creates a internal struggle for fueling control which can either work or hurt depending on how nicely everything fits together. While its what people did in the "day", doesn't mean what has been learned since the "day" should be counted out....case in point quad custom tuning, UDC pro (for vp) etc.

If you find a TST used for a good price, its a box that fuels hard but can overfuel with the smarty. Thread size = zero reference of customer database....what is the point of the quad/smarty jab? Point of thread is tuner stacking effectiveness not which tuner is currently the "hip" one to own....

I have the longest amount of free towing from AAA, think its 250miles. I figure that amount of distance shall (not always) get me to a good repair shop regardless of my current location.

Cool to read some of the old postings, whats crazy is the tech from 2011 isn't all too different from today's. The W/M system (when used properly) is a good source to boost energy output and what I like is it can be converted to straight water with relative ease for the heavy summer tow trips. I would pursue this tech but need to address a few items first before adding another system.

Well back to OP question....how do you know your wastegate isn't functioning properly? Does it feel low on boost, smokey, etc.

What info are you seeking? The development of water / methanol injection was a way to improve the combustion efficiency of an engine to increase power output. Increased power is always a bonus but if you try to use it as a "power adder" as your first post implies, end results could be catastrophic failure. I am just warning and in no way telling on how to setup your ride. I would either run a blend of methonal/distilled water or buy the premade product. Washer fluids are not a best choice due to the detergents/conditioners meant to clean your window.

I am not sure what you are using to define as a CA or Non-CA truck, but the ECM is the exact same other then minor programing adjustments that are not related to performance (readiness monitors). My truck was originally delivered to a CA dealer when new and had zero issues of over 2000 rpms in OD when towing although it was rare since that would put me at over 70mph. In stock form these aren't race trucks and towing isn't a race so start with the basics of a good fuel system along with checking for boost leaks/wastegate issues. Power = fuel/air and sounds like you have a fuel & air condition that needs to be reviewed.

The setup has roughly 5,000 miles on it since last summer and to date the only continued issue is the transfercase drip at the case seam (must split to change the impute shaft). I have been please with the performance both empty and loaded with the camper, the only major gripe is the lack of cruise control for the longer trips as my foot tends to cramp up/fall asleep after a few hours of hwy cruising. I will do my best to answer questions / help out, just keep in mind this swap is time consuming/not for the novice mechanic. I do not mean to question any of your skills, just trying to warn as i would have never tackled this if I had not had exposure/completed serious work with mechanic friends/family. Examples would be prior to this swap I was involved (with friends) 1 in-frame engine overhaul, 2 engine removal/rebuilds, 4 transmission overhauls, 2 transfercase overhauls and a cummins conversion into a 60's power wagon. Where at in Northern California are you? I now live in SF due to work, was near sonoma/petaluma and truck lives on family property near there now so it only gets driven about once a month. Has your CEL lights come back on? My CEL has been off since building my PCM fooler that interconnects with the harness & provides the same output signals as the 47re did under driving conditions. The smarty flash with the factory dodge tune took care of the ECM, but I did fight that PCM for quite awhile. I recommend getting a manual PCM to make the swap easier if you go forward. Have you had to do a smog check? The CA smog check for diesel as you know deals with visual (mods), smoke output (via snap test) and electrical (OBDII) proper function testing (codes/readiness monitors) for the 98-02 dodge generation. The purpose of me using all factory parts (including tune) was too replicate the factory version as closely as possible to remain in complaint with emissions. The main guideline in CA is to make sure all parts are either factory replacement or improved factory replacement that came on the truck as standard equipment.