NightHawk

My shirt and pants show I crawled around every where looking for that, guess when it gets better weather to take another look around. This is what research typically said until i stumbled across threads of D80's being behind some 2500 autos based on the options selected. Maybe this maybe internet nonsense but being I have the HD suspension pack in the rear with the camper option, figured it may have been true.

Thank you ! That is good to know, makes me feel better about my tape measure skills I had hoped so but think it just have a D70 as my rear diff cover is the wider D70 style verse the taller D80 ring gear setup. Oh well....

Hello Everyone, My truck's two piece rear driveshaft was very worn after 172,000 miles (doh), so after speaking with a couple of driveline shops I selected one to build me a one-piece aluminum to replace the two piece. The shop required u joint size confirmation so after pulling the rear u joint straps, i measured the caps/width & came up with 1410 ujoints. The shop didn't seem phased that i had 1410 u joints (said could have 1350 or 1410) but surprised since I thought all D70's were 1350. I continued my investigation and after more web research concluded I may have a D80 Hybrid (like the manual trucks) based on the diff cover bolt pattern. The ID tag doesn't say so maybe someone can shed some insight? While some will prob say "no way" i did find some threads on the net of claiming D80 hybrids in auto powered truck but nothing conclusive. The truck i own did come from the factory ordered with the heavy duty package (suspension & drivetrain/241DHD trans) along with the camper package. Could someone post a picture of your D80 hybrid for me to confirm?

I am going to open a new thread shortly but the Smarty in my little time using it has shed new light on the power potential of these trucks with can bus fueling. There needs to be more r&d on the user side of the smarty settings but so far i am completely smoke free with the smarty. Revo plus sw levels allow alot of adjustment so dont count it out in the can bus hp battle. To add some fuel to the fire, lets have can bus hp showdown bettween quad & smarty! The other thread will be mine as well as others r&d for smarty on low smoke power.

Hi Everyone, We as an updated, the truck now has a manual tune!!! I worked with Bob W. to get the manual tune, picked up a tuner and uploaded into the ECM tonight. The truck drives awesome with the (N) manual tune (there is a big difference on fuel curve), however I still have a check engine light/3 DTC's which are noted below. I have reached out to Bob & reported my results to make sure I did everything correctly, but any help/feedback on my steps below is appreciated and once step closer to completing my project 1. Old (Auto) ECM Tune DTC's: P0753 & P1763 (did not clear before recovery..is that a mistake by me and should I redo the recovery file clearing all DTC's beforehand?) 2. Post (N) Recovery File DTC's: P1693, P1694, P0753 & P1763 (right after tune was uploaded) 3. Post (N) Recovery File - Cleared All DTC's, started truck check engine light popped up and P1693, P0753 & P1763 came back on the tuner.

Did anyone watch the said attached video? So nothing to worry about....i haven't adjust the valves since about 100k and it just rolled over 173k. I am so close to getting an manual tune in the truck to close out my project, just before I stop wrench wanted to make sure something wasn't left on the table.

Hi Everyone, I drove my truck today for the first time in a few weeks and it seems like my engine idle noise is louder then it should be (see attached video). I know the Nv4500 makes more noise then the auto does in all driving conditions however it seems louder then I recall. The manual swap has roughly 800 miles on it and the video is after driving for 35mins. Does it sound like maybe I need to adjust the valves? Whats your thoughts or post similar videos. 01 Ram Walk-Around @ Idle - 10.16.16.mp4

Here is a few vids of the trail to the lake, about 10miles and no camper just tent & gear. Thoughts, aka would you attempt? I will be with a few other rigs up there as well. Nothing against jeeps (spent alot time in the cab of one) but not enough room inside for me to carry gear.

Let me ask this then, do you think the stock suspension isnt too stiff? I have concerns in these areas: Ground clearance (larger tires?), suspension flex, steering angle/wheel clearance and the front CAD system. The trails based on the maps and descriptions can be from maintained access rds to washed-out/left to the wayside.

Hello Everyone, I would like to go on a few off pavement trips with my rig and would like to know suggestions on ensuring I make it back to the road. I am not looking for extra hieght per say, but any suggestions on from those who spend more time in the dirt then me? I am looking to tackle mild trails with all of my gear, nothing too crazy like rock crawling. As it sits now, truck is 100% stock suspension and rear has factory overloads. Thank you!

@TFaoro See attached PDF Pump Diesel Fuel Major Axis 580 μm Pump Diesel Fuel w/ XPD 1:512 Major Axis 440 μm Pump Diesel Fuel w/ XL 1:512 Major Axis 260 μm Pump Diesel Fuel w/ XL 1:1280 Major Axis 390 μm intertektesting.pdf

I am going to try this next, has the best HFFR score with a great mix ratio. http://opti-lube.com/diesel-fuel-improver-xl.html Normal Lubrication Rate: 1 to 1280 (1 ounce per 10 gallons of fuel) Xtreme Lubrication Rate rate: 1 to 512 (1 ounce per 4 gallons of fuel)

@Me78569 Would it be possible to post a video on actually putting together a custom tune if you were the product User at home?

Basing this off personnel experience or.....sure its not plug/play but not hard. Time involved, well that's a given but how much is your happiness worth? Mine was worth the labor/cost of the conversion, to have a truck thats actually worth driving vs. an indecisive transmission. Do not let cost be a decider, the decider is what you want your truck to be stay auto or manual. I hated my auto 75% percent of the time, so it was easy when mine decided to spill its guts slowly over the roadway. However cost vs. cost, its comparing two different animals. Info to fuel the fire, my swap was +/- 4,000 when you factor in the misc items I have yet to do (driveshaft shorten & manual tune). My buddies auto build (same time as my swap) was +/- 6,000, however he loves his built auto & i love my manual.

Can we work out a deal first for me to use the S03 so I can flash my truck with a manual tune!?!

Sounds like you have a good helping hand, which will be needed from start to finish as 75% is a 2 person job. I will gather all of my misc. invoices/part list this week and pm you the info. One thing to note, I am not sure of why you plan to work on this swap (weekends/during the week) but expect it to be 40 man hrs of time from start to finish. This equaled 4 weekends for me, but i have a second vehicle for work so it didn't impact me but you will not finish in a single weekend.

I can provide a full list of parts and some vendors later today/tomorrow, however not to question your skills but I am at the same time. What's the closest mechanical task to a conversion you have done on your own? This swap is not for the average DIYer, I was fortunate enough to already removed a few transmissions & replace them (like for like) before my conversion. Mine had the rattle regardless of engine temp, it was more air temp related for me. During the morning/even when it cools is when I notice it compared to driving around mid-day. I played with the adjustments since posting what I found with the rattle and messing around with the settings made it more pronounced (all the way up) to gone (off position). As noted above, mine was related to air temp and not engine temp, it would produce the timing rattle on a cold or full temp engine. Currently its at 100% so i will back of slightly but since messing around with the settings, it hasn't really comeback to the same extent as before or maybe I have gotten "use" to the additional noise. I will say this though...since I am using opti-lube with cetane boost, I believe that may create the more pronounced noise of the timing advance during a low load condition. I will be trying opti-lube's other product with no added cetane (just lubrication) to see if their is a change prior to flashing with the manual tune file.

Maybe a dumb question but were you home when it was taken? My truck is loud compared to more modern rigs and cant image not hearing it fire up without me behind the wheel. That being said, i have been the victim of auto theft too (not to detract from your situation) but hope you had theft insurance. I did not and all my hard earn money i sunk into my tricked out k5 blazer drove away. My truck ended up parted out in less then a week, so wishing you the best but please prepare to move on. Sry man.....i know what its like, mine was ripped off while on a 1st date.

Hey Everyone, I have 300miles on the setup now, and promise to get a video going shortly once i have a willing copilot. I do have one thing (prob tune related since its an auto tune still) and that is 3rd gear under light load (no boost) has some noticeable sound increase in the injection cycle (aka timing). This is with the TS MVP all the way up (what other setting is there with a manual, not a stock auto ). Anybody have thoughts on this, occurs about 25mph/1500-1600rpm by as soon as you give it enough throttle to build boost it completely goes away. Also, anyone have a smarty S03 i can barrow or purchase....

So got my gauges back in & did some more driving this weekend. Noticed the following things below (all odd to me), any insight? EGT is down in all driving conditions (avg/low/high) compared to auto Boost is down as well which seems weird but truck is way sharper in response to throttle imputes Fuel pump can no longer keep up....with the auto roll to WOT in 3rd lock (1:1) was 11psi with a "upgraded" airtex and with the nv4500 in 4th roll to WOT its 9psi. TS MVP in 100% position ( as a comparison) generated no smoke under light throttle driving (did with auto, slight haze @ low boost) but with manual created more transitional smoke as in throttle roll on. Mileage is improved but more then expected 16.5 with auto to 17.8 with manual, time will tell on this one.

Update: Truck is fully back together interior wise and has completed +/- 50 miles of varies driving conditions. I am upset to report its not all trouble free, as the front drive shaft does not fit as its too long by ½ inch or so since we cannot compress enough for it to slid in. In addition, the Tcase has developed a drip after the 4th road road (see below) which is very frustrating as it seems to appear out of no where. Test Drives thus Far: .5 mile for verification of function which was all good 8 miles for major test, no issues were found on the truck 15 miles to my buddies place for first test after everything was re-check and no issues 25 miles back to my place where the truck is stored, Tcase started to drip after sitting overnight Current codes: P0753 P1763

Video is like a ways out, gotta work out the bugs before showing off the truck. My research found that it exists on the auto ECM for shifting between, P N R D. The software is programmed to sense changes in engine load/demand based on throttle %. Added load/demand (tc or clutch) @ 0% throttle creates a similar condition in terms of computer reaction. Research for my swap found that the programming was very similar and only small tweaks were made for each trans setup. Not sure how true this is, but from a cost aspect of producing these truck it only makes sense. I am still running auto PCM & ECM.

They are mixed between my phone, my dad's & computer (few downloaded thus far). I plan to orgize them in some sort of fashion so nothing random gets posted. Yep , I am now shifting my own gears . The truck went on a 1/2 mile test run just to make sure the major functions (starting/stopping/shift/ect) were 100% issue free. This upcoming weekend the truck will get finished (no interior at the moment) and a longer test drive circuit (+/- 5 mile loop) has been laid out by my Dad & I. If the test circuit does well, then I will drive it back to its normal home 25 miles away from the work shop. Oh and to those that wonder I have some take a ways thus far... Running just a down-pipe is really load but sounds awesome The auto ECM has some anti-stall programing ie no throttle needed for 2nd gear starts You will get an check engine light (need to confirm codes) but the engine power is not affected. I have zero interior (could trigger something) and the trans temp light flashes (have a fooler ready to install).

I will just live this here.....

Well the store trips were rather my bad, one was for hardware I failed to buy online (bolts for clutch hydros), one for RTV (my tube in the box was bad) and the last one was for alignment dowels for the trans install. Regardless it burned up too much time. As for the current status, the NV4500 is installed & the only major component left to install is the transfercase which will be this Sat morning. The truck should be driveable by Sat afternoon if all goes per my plan (when does that happen though), The trans install was very difficult for those who are thinking about this swap, Why you wonder, well without a proper transmission jack (i don't have one), the proper angle of the engine/trans install was hard to achieve. It took my dad & myself 5 attempts to get everything to slid together nicely. Cutting the floor in the proper location also slowed us down too, as we had to retrim 3-4 times (went too small on purpose) as I am somewhat of a perfectionist.