NightHawk

Well I am assuming part of the leak is related to how much rain the area where the truck resides at is...pics of rain between 2015 start and current 2016 amount to date. Total rain for the California "wet" season per the weather station is 44.32".

Today was a truck work day and I got a lot done resolving this water leak issue. With rain in the forecast for Sunday night, hopefully no additional water enters the truck cab. Items Completed today for the water leak: Removed & re-sealed third brake light Cleaned & added sealant at the rear window top & sides Clean & re-sealed the rear window slider track Cleaned out the rear window drains Removed, cleaned & reinstall the weather stripping on driver's & passenger's side of the truck Removed, cleaned & reinstall the weather stripping on quad doors Removed front inner fender's and cleaned/vacuumed out all the debris in fenders & under hood Removed under-hood mat as it was deteriorating/sagging Checked A/C drain for a clog (none found) Remaining To-do List for the water leak: Remove truck carpet & padding/sound deadening Wash/clean the truck carpet & dry Install new padding/sound deadening in the cab prior to carpet re-install

I have 285/75/16 tires on my truck with the 3.55 gear set and a stock trans (don't know 100% but pretty sure) After spending several hours in total making minor tweaks to the TV cable, I finally got my trans to "hold" gears regardless of throttle position (aka a min mph up-shift speed). Does this sound "normal" to the group, as its great to drive around with an auto & have some engine braking. My Trans shifting at a low tps (10-20%): 1-2 shift at min 10mph per my speedo, if using low input of throttle and let off below 10mph it will not upshfit 2-3 shift at min 20mph per my speedo, if using low input of throttle and let off below 20mph it will not upshfit TC lockup will occur 30mph to 35 mph with od on/off (only if already in 3rd gear) 3-4 shift a min of 45 mph but unlike 1, 2 & 3 will upshift from 3rd if button is off & i lift below 45mph 3-4 shift with OD button off (light) will shift with the TC locked when turned on (if above 45mph) 3-4 shift with OD button on (no light) will unlock TC, shift and then re-lock the TC instantly (above 45mph)

Fuel flow > Pressure but when sizing your fuel lines the pressure needs to be high enough to achieve the fuel flow required. If you search online, you can find some pipe flow calculators to determine the required pressure to achieve the desired (or needed) gph/gpm to keep the vp44 i your setup fully fueled. Having high there needed pressure to achieve xx flow only creates issues and is no ideal for pump life either. The vp44 is calibrated a 13.5 psi.....

Well I am sick to my stomach as I right this.....found the truck carpet to be completely soaked after all these hard rains. I feel overwhelmed with this issue as after 1hr of searching was not able to find a source. To top it off, I pulled up the scuff plate on the passenger side and in my hast/frustration I lost one of the rear screws somewhere in the truck/surrounding ground. After searching for 30mins for the screw (hands/knees in the dark with a flashlight) I gave up. The screw in question is a .190-16x1.50 and per a few Mopar "parts" website its no longer available. I am because I got too much going on to deal with something on the truck that left un-diagnosed/repaired will make it worse. Anybody got a source for the said screw to purchase prior to me tearing the interior/exterior apart this coming weekend?

My Purchase a gallon's worth in a jug & see what it looks like after a few days of sitting. The chances of getting a bad batch of bio are high enough to get a sample first rather then an entire tank.

I did a quick search on the web and APR2000 bolts for the 5.9 run about $430-450 so they are charging you around $200 to install them which seems steep if the head bolts are "free". Head studs are always a better option then head bolts, even for mild builds as they apply a more even pressure across the head/block.

Well strangely enough, my friend/coworker who helped on this "side" project told me this week we can do better then just "band-aiding" the original ones. So we're actually in the process of designing/fabricating new hold downs & bolts that will work with the factory trays. The equipment/material is available to us, just need to set aside time after work/weekends so why not see what we can do. I will post pictures of the final version (prob couple weeks out) to see what everyone thinks.

Well for 2016 the truck will be staying with me and plan drop some $$ on replacement parts. Although, I am always keeping my eye out for a clean 93 club cab 1st gen 4x4 with a 5 speed. I have always wanted a 1st gen, so can't fault for dreaming.

Dare you to try an old redline box

In my experience (may not be your truck) 2cycle made the following changes listed below. When I tried some XDP, all the items below were reversed. Start-up was noticeable smokyer both cold & hot With my TS MVP @ 75% I had too much throttle transition & WOT throttle smoke Towing & hauling created had more soot buildup Engine throttle response felt less snappy when adding throttle to climb a grade EGT's were higher at cruise & climbing grades Not all of the products though....

I completely understand why you (and others) chose 2cycle over a mail order product such as Opti-lube. Honestly I did not like how truck ran on 2cycle, out of curiosity have you tried opti-lube in your rig?. I average 3500-4000 miles a yr on the truck as its a secondary vehicle, so 1 gallon last me all year which makes planning ahead of supply easy for me. Opti-Lube XPD 1 Gallon = $50.85 + $16.00 shipping 1 Gallon = 128 fluid oz. Standard Treatment Rate: 1 to 512 minimum (.25oz per gallon of fuel) Recommended Rate (cold weather): 1 to 256 (.5oz per gallon of fuel) My Rate (easy to remember) = 4oz to 12 gallons or .33oz per gallon of fuel 128/4 = 32 32 x 12 = 384 gallons 384 x 15mpg (avg) = 5760miles per 1 gallon Opti-Lube XPD for me. 2cycle Pennzoil Marine (what I used to buy) 1 Gallon = $20 1 Gallon = 128 fluid oz. Recommended Rate (2nd gen): 1 to 128 (1oz per gallon of fuel) My Old Rate (easy to remember) = 4oz to 8 gallons or .5oz per gallon of fuel 128/4 = 32 32 x 8 = 256 gallons 256 x 15mpg (avg) = 3840miles per 1 gallon 2cycle for me.

I have heard good things about http://midwestfuelinjection.com/products/ for rebuilt vp's.

Sorry to report but you have a broken heating pad in the driver's side. My heating pad in the driver's seat is broken and it does the same thing as yours. LMC truck sells new heating pads for the 2nd gens.

Opti-lube hands down, never intend to go back to 2cycle

The boost controller was an interesting read. I am now left wondering how a Hy35/HE351 combo would be on one of these 2nd gens. The HY exhausting housing per this thread would bolt up, guess someone needs to be see how well the HY compressor housing would work when machined for the larger wheel.

My truck 2 years ago had a slight leak at the back of the oil pan and it looked very similar to your condition. I loosened all of the oil pan bolts during one of my oil changes and then re-torqued all of the pan bolts back to (18ft/lb) per the factory sequence. I then drove the truck for a couple hundred miles and upon inspection there was no visible leak at the pan. However to be on the safe side I re-torqued all of the pan bolts per sequence again at (18.5ft/lb) to ensure a good seal. It has been 15k since re-torque of the pan bolts and so far the leak has not returned.

Its fully understood its an HE341, however from the specs below from Comp D/research indicate the HY35 & HE341 share the same exhaust side which is why this information is awesome. It seems that no-one cares about the small housing turbos, but more of those on the road then anything else. The rpm problem will never be an issue with a vp truck . I probably have to do research on this site, but do you have a write up on the boost governor? HY35 Turbine Wheel 58/65 Comp Wheel 54/78 Housings T3 9cm HE341 Turbine Wheel 58/65 Comp Wheel 56/83 Housings T3 9cm

Nice find ! BTW way mine has not heater

This is awesome data on the HY turbo in general The chart was bunch together/small so would it be possible to post a version with a expanded data range to spread the numbers out? With boost & drive being in the 1:1 range up to 12psi makes me wonder if the so-called internet "limit" of a 32 psi max due to excessive drive pressure is really true. Consider is jumps to 2:1, 60psi drive vs 30psi boost is not terrible, although efficiency is dropping off fast. Do you have on hand the true boost/drive at say 20psi, 25psi & 30psi? I run mine non-gated as it picked up sub 20psi response over a j-hook with a spring. No matter how tight the wastegate j-hook with spring was, it always felt as if the truck would start to drop drive pressure well before required.

Out of curiosity, what was the boost vs. drive ratio curve by itself from 0 to total boost? The spool-up on the HY with my mild fueling setup is so quick it sometime catches me off guard, maybe you have a boost leak or waste-gate issue (if running one) ? My truck Hy stats (no drive pressure, ) 35/40mph in 3rd lock @ cruise 2-3psi & 500-600* egt 45/50mph in 4th lock @ cruise 3-5psi & 600-650* egt 65/70mph in 4th lock @ cruise 5-7psi & 650-700* egt 35mph to XXmph (brief cruise to WOT) in 3rd lock 3-28psi & 1000* egt (let off when boost hits 28, but sure it can go over without a waste-gate, not going to try though)

The bench/vise combo was found in the metal salvage yard, total cost was $120 to buy it back out from the scrap heap by my friend. The things people get rid of never ceases to amaze me.

Hello Everyone, The factory battery hold-downs had become dilapidated, so in lieu so spending $60/side my friend & I modded/cleaned up the factor set. The steps/repairs we performed are listed below along with the attached photos of the before/after. Total time invested was about two hours and all of the parts/equipment we already had in the shop. I know the paint job will get some comments, so to head those off – we ran out of black so to avoid surface rusting we used brown. Once the weather warms or I build a small paint cure box, I plan to wire wheel to repaint black. Hold Down Bolt Repair/Mods – Stock had rounded bolt heads Cleaned up/ground all stock bolts down Fitted each with (N) washers Fitted each with (N) bolts – 9/16” Welded (N) washers & bolts to stock bolts Sandblasted & painted Hold Down Bracket Repair/Mods – Stock had deteriorated rubber/surface rust/mismatched paint Removed all stock rubber coating (heat/scrapper) Sandblasted clean & painted

Well, as much as I would want a manual truck the idea of a swap due to the components is not favored vs selling mine & buying a manual. That said, here is the list that I came up with to do it 100%, others my differ but I like things to look done right vs. done to get it done so to speak. FYI, a 100% swap is more then a built auto trans, close to 6k when all said/done (or close too it) if going with new components (again, why not start fresh?). The cheapest/easiest way to do a swap is to buy a wrecked manual to swap everything over. Bare bones: manual truck peddles 4500 or 5600 trans Manual trans adapter plate for engine Clutch & hydros shift linkage & misc (N) manual transfercase or swap input shafts (N) driveshafts or short/lengthen stockers (N) ECM – manual (could get away with a re-flash but electronics can be finicky) (N) PCM – manual (could get away with a re-flash but electronics can be finicky) (N) main harness or cut/splice stocker My Extras: Manual truck interior Manual truck steering column (to remove shifter)

This is awesome and your time to put this together is appreciated !