dieseled

That year I believe an auto has a dana 70u , 3.5 axle tubes ,and a manual has a hybrid dana 80 , center section is 80, axle tubes taper from 4" to 3.5 so the dodge drums work , axles shafts are also smaller dia than pure 80 My 99 has a sticker on the underside of the hood , by the latch with info as far as gearing Should also be a small tag on one of the diff cover bolts My 99 SRW had a 70u , now it has a dually dana 80 and a cnc flatbed , cab and chas leafs Only difference I could find in the truck 2500 vs 3500 that year is rear end , and 2500`s come with option of front anti locks , 3500 is was standard

Well I use the seal from an edge box map connection for the CKP, cleaned the CKP harness plug up , put in another CKP, It fired right up , let it run and thru po1689`s again CEL Was able to get more seals for map and the 99 style cummins bus triangle port from Edge , only had one and Quadzilla , cost me 35.00 for a harness with seals attached , a new truck side cummins bus port end that includes a seal , and a cap for it like I had before stupidly throwing it away Moving to fuel canister yesterday the Fass blue fuel line that has been all cracked up , from the tank to the canister blew , so I had to order more and fashion temp a splice , anyone have this happen with 6 year old Fass line Checked ground connections for vp and ecm to pas batt , will re do that aft wards , Tested pins 7 and 6 on vp connector for bat voltage and ground , good Tested resistance pin 2 vp to 13 ecm ,cumminns bus + .2 ohms , ` `2 vp to ground , infinite ` `1vp to 23 ecm , cummins bus - . 2 ohms ` `1 vp to ground , infinite = replace ECM Cleaned ecm and vp plugs and greased also ground above starter Restarted and ran ok ,cel , thru po 336 , bad CKP sender signal , no other codes , dead tac , and died Been waiting for a no start condition , to hot wire the vp , did that , started right up at idle VP seems ok Hooked harness back up Cleared codes , restarted ran for about 5 min , CEL ,thru po336 and po1689 I shut it down cleared codes Restarted good held rpm above 1500 for about 10 minutes , thru CEL , and holding the rpms at about 1800 it would drop to 1500 go back to 1800 drop to 1500 repeatedly , code po1689 So tomorrow I`ll check CKP sensor harness as per diagnostic article , but I cant live scan Kind of seems to point to my two and a half year old Cummins rebuilt ECM Wondering if having a flooded CKP plug fried that circuit and affected the Cummins bus in the ECM also

One wire makes it a switch , right . Gauge always reads the same . My 99 is 3 wires and will read actual pressure , or as good as the gauge and sensor dodge uses My 04 Jeep grand Cherokee that I just bought to drive with my truck down has a one wire switch , and the sensor went out leaving me with CEL, buzzers and zero on the gauge , un easy feeling , I looked at putting in a t at the sensor with an aftermarket sensor and gauge leaving the stock setup in place

99 ats auto , ddrp on frame w/ relay, mechanical fuel press , boost , egt , trans temp gauges ,75 hp injectors ,usually edge ez , but have a so3 also . So been letting the truck set since beginning of the year , while out of state , with overhead camper on , in the CA Sierras thru po1689 , po1698 , po 380 , and po382, had a code reader , Turbo bark , shut down ,on restart erratic idle wont gain rpms I guess in limp mode , long way from home no cell service , walked to a phone and called Cummins pacific in West Sac , Towed it there ,I had dealt with them years earlier with a cracked 53 block and buy parts there , only place that came to mind that I trust , and I figured I had a bad VP44 . Come to find out they are not a franchise anymore and wont do any thing but the Cummins motor , wont even pull obd codes , I had to show them where the data port was and they had to rummage around to find a dongle to hook up with . They cant even have a factory manual , or access to the ecm files , they have to pull the off and put them on a replacement ecm I took a shot went to Valley Injection , got a VP with a "new" board on it , they do have a bosch bench , had cummins put it on fingers crossed , no change . Ran worse , the tech dumped so much diesel priming it , he pressure washed the drivers side of the motor , that made me think maybe it was a contact somewhere , also days before I drove thru a foot of snow for about an hour , I had them test the new vp with a test box they had to find hadn't used it in years, I guess its the same as jumping the VP , Valley Inj said pump was ok if they tested it that way , assume the VP is good and now I have a spare , wasn't turning old one in for a core After a week in Cummins`s RV area in my camper waiting , I had it towed home to NV , 2 grand in towing and about 3 + grand in VP and Cummins bill , and it was winter temp in northern NV , I let it sit Ive put a vp on myself in 07 and did a ecm in 2016 that's why I have a so3 , to flash the ecm I bought from Cummins while RV fulltiming in remote Nevada when it lost the lift pump power and WTS , had high ripple ac , put on a denso hairpin alt , All was good until this break down So time to fix it , yesterday started it up , have been starting it every few weeks in driveway , had cleared codes and had the battery's disconnected and would start and rev up ok , drove it down the block , it missed -hiccupped went into limp mode ,check eng light , idled home , restarted it ,dead tack running raspy everything else on the cluster was ok , shut it off, no restart Ive been looking at what to do and have a list of things to check , I know what the codes represent , Ive seen the tests in the code article area here , mainly looking at the po1689 I today visually checked the ecm and vp plugs , will pin them out later , cracked inj lines at the block , no fuel , swapped wiper relay to inj pump relay , have new ones coming It occurred to me about a month before breaking down ,after firing up after an oil change it hiccupped and thru a CKP code , Ive replaced them 3 times in 18 years , I cleared it and have one under the rear seat with other spare parts , hasn't come back , but when searching forums came across a few where it was give that a 1689 code went away after CKP was replaced , so that was on my list , Ive had a vac seal leak for awhile ,have the repair kit haven done it yet , on the list, so the starter area is nice and dirty I pulled the CKP and the contacts where corroded and filthy , looked closer and the harness end of the plug is missing the seal , I changed the CKP and CPS and some other sensors in 2016 when I did the ecm .and keep them as spares. The one I have as a spare is the one that came out its contacts are clean , so I guess I lost the seal when working on the truck in the gravel RV park , The CKP plug end faces up and without the seal forms a nice little catch basin So I know its probably a long shot that the CKP is the problem , but it is one , Can the truck run with no contact , or extremely little to the CKP And another issue is the corrugated seal , Assuming that's what is supposed to be on the harness end , like is on the map and other sensors . I already knew I needed the one on the data link triangle plug , I lost it pulling my edge ez off in a hurry when at Cummins , they don't want to see those boxes, and have had no luck finding one for it even at a yard, they want to sell the whole harness Anyone ever found a source for the different sizes of those If that doesn't fix it , not holding my breath ,I was going to start with the Moparmans article tests for po1689 , I`m not really understanding having both the ECM and VP 44 ends of the harness disconnected and testing the given pins#`s of the harness , is that right , the last test if failed - replace ecm Was also going to do the re grounding of ecm and VP , reroute of alt + to pas battery , check all grounds .... ripple ac is under .02 as of yesterday Sorry this is so long Thanks ED

When my 99 `s block cracked , Cummins removed everything from the 53 block and re installed it in a new 55 block with new piston rings and all seals , the engine id plate is on the timing cover that was re used , its off the original motor . Only cost me 4300.00 for the labor , parts free , out of 100k Cummins warranty , 12 yeas ago , still hurts

Got the alternator from Nations today , the 01-02 , 180 amp , denso hairpin .Plug is in the same place as original in the 99 , the only real diff is the + post is a larger diameter , I drilled out the eye terminal on the trucks wire , the old had a shroud to keep me from getting zapped when I change the oil , the new doesn't , the old one wont fit it , I`ll get a boot for it .Pulley is the same size The best is it read .022 at the alternator post and body , and it has way higher voltage that my old tired one , thanks CT cummins 24

I used to run twc3 all the time in mine , I haven't in a few years , thank for reminding me I had it around to run because I tournament bass fished and hung out at boat shop that sold it in bulk out of 50 gal drums , like for 10.00 a gal , I`m sure its gone up , how much is it at Walmart ? If you have a boat shop near you you might check with them , a lot of motors are now 4 strokes now but some , optimax and e-tecs still use oil

I have an edge elbow , I haven't looked at it in awhile are there enough threads left when its where you want it that you could put a small nut on it to lock it by backing the nut against the housing

Well I thought I would by a diode kit from Larryb`s , but my stock is a nip denso has a plug not terminals for PCM wires so his wont fit , called dodge , had a bad taste in my mouth after thinking of that and would have to order and drive 100 miles round trip to pick up Plug on the nations 01-02 180amp looks the same as mine , as does the total configuration in the pics on the web site Had talked to DC Power , another high amp builder I was referred to by BD power in Wash state , they said they get them for nations ,said if I had terminals not a plug he could send me a plug , but he wanted me to order a 99 still , 469.00 , others I talked to said 98.5-02 the same mounting wise . So I took a chance and ordered the same one CTcummins 24 v did a 01-02 hoping it fits my truck , 2nd day air Still wondering if .175 seems like a overly high # for blown diodes

I wish I could use a 01-02 from nations , but they say the + post is in a diff position and the bolt hole is a different size on the adjust , might be workable , but would hate to find the belt was out of alignment also or something , cost diff is huge between 99 and yours But I did get a multi meter that reads at 2vac and was shocked to see .175 fluctuating , the 20vac scale read .17 and on the 200vac .1 , I guess when its bad enough you can read it on 200vac. Anyone seen that high of a reading Went to napa to get what they said on the phone was a new Nippon denso which is what mine is and it turned out to be a new "denso type" made by ? Otherwise its a re- man . I asked about return if it didn't pass a AC test while running on their test machine but checked out for amps , they said no return Now what order a 3 week out new mechman - nations and not drive it , dot want to replace diode pack I don't think with out it just being a spare , have a brush and bearing kit coming already Guess I`ll call the stealership and see what they want for a new one Afraid to drive it now , don't want to eat the ecm I just put in I guess I didn't have lock unlock because I did the ATS re-wire 8-9 years ago but that was to solve a 2 nd to 3 rd downshift in and out deal , it did solve it Any one know of a good supplier of new high amp that don't have to build them , withy lead time Called mean green but they didn't answer

Yea nations said they use a smaller pulley and you can get by with a stock belt Mechmen said to use a 1/2 " shorter belt Probably has a lot to due with the condition of the idler tensioner and the belt Sounds like a shorter belt is the way to go , the way it squeels when you shut them off because of compression anyway I wouldn`t want it worse Trying to find a multi meter that reads low enough to check mine so I know if it needs a diode pack if I re-build it and to check a napa one if I buy a new stock e for now Rural area not much available , mine only reads down to 200vac , leary of driving it much with a new ecm and an unchecked alt

called them ,Nations for my truck cost 439.00 for a 180 amp , to much To answer the question , they don't sell diode packs

the one you used says 2001- 2002 , I wonder why on that site when I look for one for a 99 , is for a gasser with a PCM controlled regulator , 180 amp only When I search for on for a 99 W/ Cummins its only a 270 amp , but it says w/ internal regulator and is 639.95 I thought all the alternators 99- 02 fit gas or diesel , I probably would make my own cables , get welding wire and terminal ends , and a buss fuse from a solar place I have bought from ,cheaper . The mechman site has a cable kit that has 10 ft wires , is there a preferred path to run the positive , different than the smaller factory pos. wire? so no interference Also nations site says to use a shorter belt? That's a nice write-up but more work than I`m looking for , would like direct bolt on

99` auto 4x4 , 217 k on my stock one , keep occurring to me to replace before it goes out . Should have already it seems like . Just ordered a bearing and brush kit from Geno`s , to keep this one as a spare . But would like to get a higher amp than the 135 amp or whatever it is , something like 200 or 250 maybe . I have dually flatbed on it and it has a lot of lights and I haul a truck camper tow trailers , more lights and charge camper batterys on the move , also a large 5th wheel same thing I solved my lock unlock tork converter prob years ago with a ATS rewire , don't want it back if the higher amp ones will cause it Have seen geeenies or such for 400.00 , Amazon sells one made by eagleelec for 150.00 , some on e-bay 150-175.00 Do the higher amp ones just have a smaller pulley or what , Any recommendations , I dont want to cause problems , My truck is ok now , dont want a PCM problem

I bought parts from this place for mine 2men1garage.net

Yea it would have to be someone trying to solve there own problem Probably wrong , and just thinking , but 2 second key on might be enabled by fuse 9 - ignition switch on , and a timer; 25 sec starter bump by either amp drop or by physically tying into starter some way ,and timer ; disable power to LP maybe by crank or cam sensor signal and a relay, directly tapping in leaving it still hooked to ecm - I know that's 5 volt.. But just thinking...... because I already fixed my truck - this time anyway Probably shouldn't have said that , might have jinxed myself Hope the OP is having some luck with his truck

I think eddielee`s guess that they may have been referring to 95.5- 99 ecm`s is a good one . What I heard from many , about problems re-flashing them and then having problems and adding ecm programers . Although I heard its not all of them , % unknown , you just take your chances . If that's true it speaks to modualmasters knowledge and ethics .But maybe they should be informed you can re-flash a newer one to work on those years , so they don't leave some owners hanging Just went out in the snow and started my truck this morning , and for the first time had high idle , nice . a by product of the updated files of the Smarty What would be nice is for some really knowledgeable person to come up with a add on box that had a 2 sec LP on , 25 sec LP bump on , and LP defeat when the truck shuts off , that could be wired into a relayed circuit and run on a new ignition on wire . For all the folks that have the ecm LP circuit fail

I have a 99 4x4 also ,also had an 03 dually , the difference they steer is night and day , even with the 99 track bar fixed , best thing ever did was put on a Delphi 600 steering box and a borgeson shaft , the action is progressive so it stays centered , and dosent wander , has less turns lock to lock , also add a pitman arm steering box brace

That's interesting , the service manual makes a point to say "Do not apply paint to back of ECM . Poor ground will result ." Are they metal washers? I thought about heat being the cause of my ecm failure , I towed my fiver over the sierras from Placerville to NV last summer and the truck didn't like it much , had to stop 2 times to cool off If you can find a 01 ,02 ecm that's blank or not, at a yard , and someone with a smarty so3 that will un- vin lock it from there truck , it only takes about an hour to call smarty and have them e-mail you the 99 auto or manual files and drivers to load into the smarty , then plug it into the osbd on your truck , couple of minutes later your good to go ,its easy if I can do it anyone can, im not very computer literate .Plus them wit a newer year ecm you don't have to worry about scrambling your ecm with a programmer . You do then have to re- load the catcher files into the smarty to give it back to the guy who loaned it to you . You will have the 99 files on your comp for future use . For me it was worth the cost of the smarty to not deal with Dodge . If I had Cummins try to do the ecm it would have been a 99 for sure and they take the files off the damaged ecm and re install them into the rebuilt one , so it they are corrupted , you end up at Dodge anyway , Dodge wont let Cummins have the flash files or even a service manual for a Dodge truck

I just returned my core for refund to cummins , 292.00 core , 1228.00 ecm ,ouch . Dodge wanted 2300.00 just for ecm I`ve had luck I guess orig ecm until now , one thing I found out is 98.5 and 99 ecms when reflashed with power or other have had issues " burning flash in " and not getting back out , Dylan at Smarty told me this , also heard similar from Hyperteck . Dylan told me to get a 2000 to 02 ecm , said the all work on all trucks . Cummins and Dodge don't feel this ,, had to get a vin # from a 01 truck and order from Cummins as if it was mine , they wont sell for the wrong truck , I read to many horror stories about the ecm rebuilders on line , if had at wreaking yard wouldn't know if it was a stock or a rebuilt one , I wouldn't hesitate to spend 1300.00 on some other upgrade I wanted on my truck , power .... so I just went that way , the old girl is worth it , hope cummins uses a better re builder

Thanks for that , I was hoping someone would say they had this also . Might be a diff between 99 ecm , and 01 that I have now or the newer 99 flash I put in it Truck runs well now , had an old Edge ez , now has Smarty S03 , which was a godsend to find that it can flash a blank ecm , instead of going to the stealership , seems to work better with the 75 hp injectors too , plus now I have high idle , I lived in CA and had to take off some stuff when smog happened , ez had a carb sticker on it ,now in NV and can breath again That's how I planned to do it , but I might pull power from the alt ,or the PDC . I live in an area where I couldn't find a socket for the relay , didn't want exposed spades under the hood , had to order it on line That would be a good way to draw power with a bad ecm signal , but I think the IP relay power from ecm is not shut off during cranking the starter , might cause air up against the IP , causing a hard start The service manual says "Normal current flow to the pump is 12 amperes . Mode 1:100 percent duty-cycle with a minimum pressure of 10 psi except when the engine is cranking . Mode 2: 25 percent duty- cycle with a minimum pressure of 7 psi with the engine cranking " Power windows are shut off during cranking , as long as the truck fires right away with no other probs ,causing long crank before firing ,it works well as an alternate to the ecm signal being no good

No it wasent , but fuse 9 in cab- output to ecm controlled by ign switch was coming on instantly , had hoped for a ign switch to fix it ,but not ,so I figured it was probably ecm , but that's a costly fix , and since I couldent find a used wrecking yard one and I didn't feel comfortable with those internet -mail you a already flashed ecm companys so I looked at everything else So I did the crank and cam sensors as the cummins tech support guy said and every other thing I could find , then did the ecm , like I said that cured the IP power delay. Its funny after changing the ecm ,but with the lift pump still on the power window circuit , nothing on the ecm lift pump wires, it through a PO230 lift pump out of range , but with it back on ecm and I drove it 8 hours today no code . It still dosent work the way I expect it to , if I key on once it does the 2 sec deal but if I repeat right away nothing , wait 30 sec or so its on for 2 sec again , about the same for the starter bump and 25 sec on deal, I was at cummins today and asked , but no one had heard that one ,will call cummins tech tomorrow , I hope its something in the newer flash that I put on the ecm that Smarty e-mailed me .My truck never had been reflashed since 01 . Just for drill I bought the rest of the ecm input sensors , IAT , MAP , Oil press, Coolant temp , since the truck has 230k on it I figure it wont hurt to change them , I read a bunch of forum threads and read some funny solutions to similar issues , changing sensors . Also I have a spare Fass DDRP I might put on , relay and plug harness came in the mail today , pump amp load is getting off the ecm I had a conversation with the guys at Fass a few weeks ago about the line voltage drop problem of a pump 7-8 feet away with I would think a higher that stock carter amp draw , looks like 14ga wire on the harness to the factory plug that has 18 ga wire going to the ecm , they said no prob , but the way I see it its going to cause a heat issue at the ecm , If you run the wires into the cab thru the grommet under the brake master , and into the fuse panel on the door side of the dash. You can use a fuse spade type tap on the power window fuse , it is powered when ign is on but is defeated when the starter is cranking

Ive been dealing with a similar issue on my 99 delayed 12 volt to IP relay from ecm , that would cause long cranking , at the same time , lift pump ,fass ddrp on frame rail would some times work key on for 2 seconds as it should , but mostly no 12 volt to pump . And when starter bumped would in -frequenty work for 25 sec , but usally only come on as less than 12 volt for 5 seconds , there is a time when lower voltage is set but I think its only supposed to be during cranking to produce 7 lbs instead of 15 lb pressure Right away I rewired lift pump to the power window fuse , and put a test light at the dash on the ecm to lift pump wires to moniter it ,also put a test light on the ecm to IP relay wire Truck wa long crank but when I see test light on ,showing ecm to relay bat volt on it, fires every time , ran fine , lift pump is fine on power window circuit Cummins said try crank pos sens , and cam pos sens , checked grounds....delay caused by ecm waiting for a signal back from ? Decided on ecm , replaced with a 2001 ecm because of known issues with 98 .5 and 99 ecms ,ecm from cummins , installed 99 file with Smarty , thanks to Dyan at smarty, that cured the long crank , but still throwing a po230 code voltage to lift pump , its wire back to ecm , and have a relay on the way to get the higher voltage pump off the ecm , incase that's what started the whole issue , just did all this today , lift pump is working key on 2 sec and bump 25 sec but if repeated right away no 2 sec , and bump for only five at lower volt , like theres a time out to do the full 2 sec and 25 sec bump ,? never noticed that before . After about one min it works as it should , I`ll see if it throws a code , I`m driving it 8 hours tomorrow Anyway that's my problem , I saw this thread as I was on this site looking at the po230 code trouble shoot in the articles here , from what I have found out by looking at the wiring in my service man there are two pins on the ecm plug that go to the lift pump # 15 and #35 both YL/WT wires that somewere before the plug at the lift pump combine to one YL/WT wire , my thinking is one pincontrols the start , 2 sec , 25 sec bump , and the other the run My problem seems to be with one, the start pin , yours is the run pin, I`ll be checking wiring from the new ecm to the pump if that code shows again , You should check the article out and rule out the ecm ,wiring and pump as the writeup says but I think you have to check both pins at the harness since I cant find out which is which ,both say " sleeve position sensor +" , the wiring diagram shows both going to the lift pump splice connector "S160" at the stock lift pump , only about one and a half feet of wiring harness away