woodtrucker

Just as a follow up. I did take to my local dealer where I knew someone and ask them to only look at ecm and sure enough a reflash took care of the exhaust brake issue. Just wanted to follow up in case others have this problem! If you've ruled out ebp sensor, ebp tube clog, actuator calibration issues, & fuses/wiring issues, then you might have a dealer look at a reflash. Only costed me $45 at my dealer for them to reflash. I was relieved to not only have it fixed but also not to have to pay an arm and a leg to fix!

despite my efforts (with your help) to try and communicate with my turbo, I have still not been able to calibrate turbo. I get key on key off actuation, I get good back pressure numbers during a 10k lb haul for 1.5 hours, and no codes, excessive smoke or anything so, my plan is to go ahead with asking the dealer on Tuesday to try and calibrate a “pre-aligned” turbo actuator and try to confirm it is operating. If that is confirmed, then I’ll ask them to look at ecm to see if there really is a setting that could be disabling the ecm from sending the exhaust brake command. I hope it’s just a simple calibration issue. It would make most sense if so. Should I return truck to stock with all the egr codes showing to have the dealer look at it? Or would leaving it tuned be ok?

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I appreciate the response. I was told by dripley he was on travel. no big deal. It's not a deal breaker now anyway. It's funny I can hear the actuator working at power up though so thats good. now that I know what it sounds like I know that it's actuating on key on and on key off. now whether it's going all the way to where it's supposed to is yet to be determined. I do know that the canbus controller is getting the code uploaded of some sort but it's not talking to the turbo yet.

I would love to get some feedback on this if possible. Thanks to ME78569, I am sitting hear at my truck and have done everything in the instructions for the calibration with only one hang up. I couldn't get the arduino to open when I double click the turboreset.ino. I was just wondering what I need to do to get that ino file to work. Is the ino file that same text that he has shown below the canbus library .zip? Do I need to change any values on the code itself or just copy, paste, and upload. All that happens right now is that when I connect power to turbo I hear it actuate immediately and I don't get any slow movement after 5 seconds. Just a quick actuation and that's it until I unhook. Reconnect and same thing. I feel like I might not have communication since I couldn't get the turboreset.ino link to work on the instructions. Could someone possibly help? I'm sitting here at my truck now trying to get communication going. Many Thanks!

Check that. I just copied and pasted and was able to upload it via the Arduino so I hope to go home after work today and connectorize and hook up power to turbo and usb to arduino and hopefully it will do a full calibration! Thanks, Scott

Ok. I'm passed an led command to the arduino! Pretty cool stuff. I haven't fooled around with this type of stuff before but I have done a fair amount of hardware work on computers. This is going to be a cool set up to use and as I said, a donation is headed your way for figuring out all this for a cheap set up to calibrate. I only am having one problem. I cannot seem to get the turboreset.ino to load. It's a dead link on this website. Do I need to make the donation before using this file? Can't right click and save as .ino either. Double clicking does not launch Arduino software. I'd like to load up everything and uplug then bring it all home after work today and plug up to the turbo. Would you also happen to know what type of criimp tool is need for the connectorizing? I have an EE that will likely have it but I'd like to borrow it from him to take home so I can crimp the connector on when I get home. That might mean that I can set this thing up tonite and do a cal which would be incredible!

All parts have been ordered. I'm excited about the prospects of getting this brake working. It sure is nice to have someone with your expertise helping us out on these really cool trucks and I'm a fan of VGT. I'd really like to get it going like it's supposed to and how cool would it be if I hook all this up and do a 5 min cal at home get that brake back online! And I have the unit built for future troubleshooting as well. I can kick the dealer aside once again. I live for being able to do that so I hope you are correct for that reason only!

Canbus Shield V2.0 is all that is available on SEED website. What about this one on amazon? https://www.amazon.com/MakerFocus-Makerfocus-CAN-BUS-Shield-V1-2/dp/B00T3XPH6C Or should I get the V2.0? I can machine parts and do 3d printing and mechanical design but this electrical stuff involves too many electrons for me to be comfortable! PM me your address. As I'm working on a 3d printer calibration, I'll send you a couple of these as I get some done.

Cool man. I saw where you posted on cummins forum about this very thing! Sorry to make you post it again to me. I was about to go delete that but you already responded. I'm headed over to the article now to get parts on order. I'm so excited I'll just postpone my lunchtime run and do it tonite! I wanna get this stuff on order so I can get my eb back in time for the several camping hauling episodes I have coming up! Thanks again for the help and I'll let you know how the calibration goes!

Doesn't make sense to flat line a tune to the point to disable EB all together. What you are saying makes sense for sure. I found another post that discusses the rebuilt turbos requiring dealer calibration in order to work so it certainly can't hurt to go ahead buy the components and do the calibration myself. At least I'd have it for the further when the enevitable comes back around again and I have slider ring problems! lol. Would I need to remove the actuator to calibrate since it's already installed and likely in the correct position.I'd be afraid I would screw it up when it's already in the correct position and maybe just needs to be run through the sequence. It's a less expensive option to just try calibrating anyway and at least I'll have everything. I really appreciate the help and I'll donate a few bucks to you for your help!

He told me he replaced entire turbo with one that had cleanout port etc. so in that case it’s an enable issue right? He didn’t just replace the actuator. He bought a new turbo and actuator together. But I think you answered my question bc an entirely new turbo and actuator would mean it is calibrated and probably exhaust brake is disabled in ecm. I am still thinking the reflash done in 2012 might have disabled it. I don’t mean to be difficult here but according everybody that sells these entire vgt turbos they are supposed to be plug and play on the calibration end.

Thanks for response. If turbo is precalibrated then exhaust should work unless it's disabled in ecm correct? Why would I need to use calibrate tool? Sorry this is all new to me. Turbo works fine just exhaust brake not working. I'd rather buy the cal tool and use your instructions but if turbo was purchased with actuator pre-calibrated I wouldn't need to calibrate it correct? Can the cal tool enable/disable tool? Dealership wants $125 to do the enable if that is the problem. smh...

Thanks. I am thinking if the vgt was replaced, he likely bought it and the actuator together as a unit and it was probably pre-calibrated. Seems like most direct replacements/reman's come pre calibrated so you slap it on and go. So the fact that turbo is working fine and exhaust brake not on, I'm of the opinion that it just needs to be enabled by the dealer. I don't want them to get into doing a calibration because it's working fine just no exhaust brake. @Me78569 knows more than a little about vgt set ups! lol. I'm anxiously awaiting his response to this post. I have been working/learning on all this for a month and I was so thankful the PO called me last nite. Set my mind at ease on a lot of things related to the truck that I didn't know and helped me solve the exhaust brake issue!

I got a surprise call from the PO of my 07 mega cab tonite and boy was it a surprise! He gives me the history on my truck and wow, it answered all my questions about a 6.7 and I've solved the EB not working mystery! He says: -It's got a category 5 suncoast rebuilt transmission. Said he hauled a heavy load on original trans and messed something up and immediately had the category 5 rebuilt transmission put in with a package deal they were doing at the time with H&S tuner. He said it was good to either 500 or 700hp. I think 500. Claims this was an $8k tranny that he was really bummed about just letting go with the truck. He wanted to replace it with a stock one but just decided he didn't want to go through with all that and told I had a really great truck that should last a long time. -He also said it was deleted in 2011. Not sure of mileage at that time. probably around 100k. Has 160k on it now and new turbo since it's been deleted and ccv reroute so turbo has never seen any junk. -He also said the reason exhaust brake wasn't working was that he had the turbo replaced and it needs dealer to set it up. I'm assuming that means it either needs to be calibrated or enabled in pcm? or both? So will a dealer be able to understand exactly how to do this? It definitely explains why turbo seems to spool correctly but exhaust brake doesn't work. Should I return truck to stock before the reflash to enable exhaust brake if that is the problem? Or Should I just ask them to calibrate and see if that gets it online? Thanks guys and for the record I trust answers on this forum more than anyone so thanks for being so good at cummins diesels y'all!

I've been ready a million posts on eb function because after many checks and repairs, I still can't get it fixed. About to order the arduino pcb kit that will allow me to hook up to turbo and actuate. Most of what I've read revealed what AH64ID has said. It has to be below a certain temp for the brake to come on during high idle. I was able to get my high idle to come on by pushing cruised button then set cruise button after initial start up even in the warm summer we are having. You could try that but I still think the brake won't come on unless it's colder out. I base most of this on what I've read bc my EB is broken. smh...

I have standing offer for $20500. I have it going by on eBay for $21900. If I got an offer for $21 this week it would be gone. Search blacksburg,va cl. I have pics and two links to a start up and an idle video there. I have about 90% confidence on the buyer and it will be gone next Monday for $20500 if not sooner. Clean and tight and steering is tight considering it’s all stock front end. From 84k to 115k has nearly been all highway except for crawling into my preachers 150 acre farm to fetch firewood.

II know. I’m crazy for doing it I’m sure and my wallet will not like this. Heck my wallet already doesn’t like it. Dropped almost $500 so far and have this near mint 02 6 speed sitting in yard for sale that needs nothing! I hope someone will tell me I’m not making a big mistake on this 6.7. It sure is an awesome truck that suites a family of 5 much better than the old faithful!

Great write up man! I was just having a conversation with a local diesel buddy about buying the snapon tool and we discussed autoengenuity capabilities and so I did a quick search in the tool to do this and it led me right back to this site and your write up! I will do just that! Thanks! This 3rd gen 6.7 has been a learning experience w this turbo. I should have studied that vgt prior to my purchase. Might have led me another direction on a purchase after seeing remand actuators for $1200 and full vgt replacement with eb for $2300! Ouch!

I know some of you may sigh reading the post subject and I really have worked hard to study up on eb vgt function trying to troubleshoot my new truck purchase. Yeah, I am selling my awesome 02 6 speed that I love for the very powerful/comfortable 6.7 mega cab. My entire family has thanked me for easier travel when camper pulling but I’m chasing down a no eb condition. Me7....has put a great article out on calibrating vgt so I am now getting the confidence to proceed with pulling off actuator and check for manual actuation to see if things are bound up. Here is how I’ve arrive at this juncture. -no eb function at time of purchase -perform service on overhead pops up, did ccv delete and cleared that issue but cc pressure code still shows up on H&S. People tell me this is expect on early 6.7 with H&S. (Unrelated to eb not working I know) -then I pulled back pressure line and sensor for cleaning, still no ebp reading returned truck to stock and found the code lit for ebp sensor bad. -dropped $102 for replacement sensor and now ebp sensor works. Still no brake. -considering the set up to calibrate vgt so I can pull actuator and check sector gear function. If locked up, I’ll tear down for rebuild. -this should confirm if actuator works vs nozzle ring locked up correct? any other suggestions beside a new upgraded turbo? I want eb function for camper towing. Thanks smart cummins people!

It cost probably as much as the trip to get those pictures taken! lol. Well I had a buddy at work that does decent body work do it and it was a BIG job. I had a bad dent in the top corner of cab, I bought two new (used) doors as well and they were rippled on the body panels so he did a lot of repair there as well. I spent $700 on replacement doors. I know that was a lot and I tried to find $1500 or less salvage trucks to steal doors off of but not many 4 doors out there to buy so I ate some cost there. We used Omni Paint so the paint/primer was nearly $1000. If you don't factor in the doors it cost me $3000 for him to do it including the paint. I helped just so I could understand more of what's involved. I painted a door jamb and I didn't do too well and I had to flap wheel the top down to bare metal since the clear was gone, paint peeled, and rust pits were forming. That was fun! lolj. It's got some imperfections and areas that didn't get sanded out well but black is a TOUGH unforgiving color. All in all I am VERY happy and in 10 more years when it's all beat up from use I'll get it done again if I need to!

Yeah man. Anytime you wanna check it out I’d be happy to meet you. Maybe you can put eyes on the few mystery’s that I’m chasing down right now!

Just upgraded to 17" rims this week. Really happy with the overall look. A lot of work the last year on this truck. New paint, New Dash, New Tires, New Wheels.

Not topping between changes. And I may not have actually included the filter. oops. But if filter uses a quart that's still roughly quart and half to 2 quarts leaked. I will pay more attention next change and let it drain longer. Probably will redo oil pan gasket at that time anyway so it will need to drain well anyway. That should solve the problem. I don't see any oil anywhere else except an occasional drip from the evap line.

No leaks on tappet cover. Checked that out once before. Most of the oil is leaking out of the pan from what I can tell. i’ll try to let is drain overnight next change and see if I get more oil out.