woodtrucker

Update: The third sliding glass that came in had a drain plug clogged up and the slider track was not glued in at all so we would have same problem again. i decided that I'd go with a solid rear window but it has to be tinted so that is going to cost me so I just figured I'd just go ahead and tint power windows too. That will help keep the temps down in a black truck. Am aftermarket slider also would not fit like a solid. Solid and the factory slider windows fit flush. Aftermarket sliders have a lip that seals outside the opening and I want it to look more stock. End of update!

I had a leak problem with a factory replacement back sliding glass two years ago when I had the original replaced since I accidentally knocked a hole in it with a piece of firewood. The leak returned about a week ago and i saw where the track for the slider itself had worked loose on the glass itself and caused the leak and causing the back window track to flop around when you slide it open/closed. My glass guy, who has been in business 30 years said he ordered another replacement glass from factory (chrysler) and it had the same problem. He called them and told them to fix the problem and ship him a good one and the same thing again. That's 3 faulty rear sliding glasses and a week with my truck in the glass shop. Anybody looking to replace a rear glass might want to consider an aftermarket replacement back glass if you need one to avoid going through this problem. Just heads up guys!

I bought a rebuild kit for my stock steering box and it helped the wandering issues I had quite a bit. Mine was not severe but it has improved after the seal kit and a good flush.

One thing is for sure, if I do this, I want to do it once. After this new paint job, I don't want to see the paint bleed red!!!!

I have three options. A 2" patch for each door skin. Patches will have to be butt welded in and the. Bondo sand prime and paint. A lot of work but lowest cost option. I could buy whole door skin from lmc, and remove old skin and attach New to existing doors. That costs a lot more but would be easier to install with less welding and no butt welds. Or I could buy used (no rust) doors and prime and paint. Way expensive but no welding and I'd have to find them of course.

Wanting some opinions here on the rusty door problem our rams have. I'm about to drop $1000 on Omni plus paint to put a new paint job on my truck. I have a great body man who is helping me do it right. I'm doing all the grunt work. So my question is what would you do to repair knowing you are trying to put a quality paint job on.

(A/6.8947)-14.6 tried this formula and at idle, my gage was sitting at 14.6. So I subtracted another 14.6 and it set it on 0 but seemed to kind of track with my gage up to about 15-20 psi and it wouldn't go any higher. not sure what's up with that.

Yep. I think it was running around high 80's 90 ish. It seems like I'm good now down to about 25 degrees then it will start to bronc and buck! lol. Also, someone mentioned not lugging and I've upped my shift points a little so that my rpms stay about 1500-1600 on the shift and that seems to help too since the turbo is spooled a little higher at beginning of acceleration. The bhaf helps to b/c it seems like the turbo spins a little more freely. could be in my head but seems to.

reporting back after a winter grill and bhaf install and I'm happy to say that 30 outside degree temps do not seem to affect performance anymore. I'm sure I will drop down below a threshold at some point where the truck will run rough again but it's much farther down the ambient temperature curve making a significant improvement with wintertime driving! Thanks for all the feedback! 40-50 degree temps are a real sweet spot for optimum throttle response on my ride. now back to the new paint job...

I'll give this a try next time I'm in my 02 and see if it works. Thanks!

Haha. I just realized I had a typo on the header for this post. I was wondering what the heck you were talking about!

I just put on the 2790 the other nite and wow did it make a difference! I really think it helped turbo lag a bit but I guess it could be in my head but sure seems like it helped the low end a tad. haha. As if I need more low end! I ain't complaining! lol.

ok. thanks. I'll give that a try!

I tried this formula and MAP just read 0 the whole time. I'm wondering if that was because I had something else set up wrong though. It should have output something...hmm

Just curious what people are running as a majority. I heard when I owned a 7.3l that the 6637 was the preferred filter to use for two reasons. One, it was cheap and two,it had a metal mesh on OD AND ID. Many of the guys claimed it was les chance of filter getting wet, tearing and getting sucked into the turbo. Bad news. I just picked up the recommended 2790 which is a bigger diameter 10.5" versus 6637 which is 8.5", but it does not have a metal mesh I'd. Just paper on I'd and mesh only on od. Just curious if anyone has seen any problems with the 2790 collapsing. I'd also like to know what cfm each of them flow if anybody knows! Thanks.

I run an Anderson 5th wheel hitch.Been running it for two seasons and I really like it. It doesn't make any noise and is very easy to install. I use it on shortbed and I can make a turnaround in a culdesac at the end of my street without hitting cab. It offsets just the right amount from hitch to allow you space to make tight turns. Haven't been in a spot yet with after two seasons! Very good price. I went with the steel one since it is cheaper. It's heavier but that's ok. I just drag it off the truck and use my hand truck to cart it around the house as needed for storage.

Pretty sure my truck kicked that code when I first bought it. It had a bully dog torque dog tuner on it and it was the really old version which didn't even have a switch on it. Not sure if it was that crappy box or if it was something else but it only popped a code one time. I reset it and shortly after I went to edge EZ with injectors and I've never popped a code since then. Over a year ago.

Thanks guys. It's on the horizon!

After my new paint job is complete, sometime early spring, I'm going to move on to the dash replacement. I've decided I am going to replace dash versus a dash cover glued on. Since I am going that route, the heater core will be accessible. Should I go ahead and replace it too even if it's not leaking? Wasn't sure how widespread the leaky heater core problem is. I have 108k miles.

Could you combine a 2 byte value to one with a formula you think? Like an if, then, type thing? If pressure reaches x value then use B byte value?

Spacehiker, I play guitar (20 yrs) and I'm a recording engineer (by hobby) and understand your logic. That's called making the room flat or tuning the room by sweeping frequencies 20-20k hz and notching with an eq. It's usually corrected bc the room generates unwanted noise at certain frequencies. These guys were using some formula's to try and convert from abs pressure to gage pressure with no luck. For me to understand the problem (so I can ask one of these smart people I work with at Virginia Tech to help us, is the issue in that the map reading the scan tool is giving us in correct for a conversion to gage pressure? I would like to think that some formula should be able to convert this to psi for us. I have no idea what it should be but I could ask some smart math people to help us.

If I weren't neck deep in a paint job, I'd jump on one of those quadzilla's. Will be spending the next $1000 on paint. Thank God I got a great body man at my work that's helping me. I do the grunt work and he does all instruction, stud gun work, and the spraying. Hood and top now in primer!

Another thing I notice on the symptoms is that level 1 (lowest ez setting) it's barely noticeable but you can tell it stumbles in relatively the same spots rpm wise. Accordingly, each level (1-3) which alters fuel and timing more and more, progressively worsens stumble effect. So it makes me wonder if the timing is set up the same on every setting and as fuel changes the symptom worsens. I probably just need to live with it and stop obsessing. Lol. Again, it's just interesting to me and I like figuring out why things like this happen. I'm just too uneducated on engine theory to figure it out! we are in the 50's for the next week at least so looks like I won't get to do anything but enjoy the heck outta driving it around awhile.

I would love to learn how that stuff works. I would take a class if such class existed. I'm always very interested in stuff like that. One question yall can answer I'm sure. If you say timing advance, is that the angle before TDC that the injection of fuel happens? So I don't know where it would happen on a stock engine. say 30 degrees. Then a timing advance would be moving the injection event to 25 degrees from TDC (ie-closer to TDC)? I assume the duration is the same and the fuel rate is not at play here when talking timing advance. All these gauges and feedback on that scan tool has got me thinking! haha. The one thing other thing I can't get my head around is if the truck is leaning due to timing advance, wouldn't the fuel pressure drop way down if it was leaned out to the point of an engine miss or stumble? That makes the overfueling issue in lugging range more plausible. Regardless, I'm gonna pay attention and try to shift to start 5th and 6th only when the RPM's are 1700-1800 pulling grades and see if the conditions improve when cold outside.

Very good insight jlbayes. I feel like it's during the build cycle on a hard acceleration. I'm usually unloaded in cold weather months so it's on a hard pull unloaded up a pretty steep grade. As the boost builds, it's certainly more noticeable on the ramp up but never seems to clean up completely. Far worse the closer to lugging range for sure. Most of my shifts are usually starting me out about 1500-1600 rpms in 6th. That's where I notice it most. Slightly even in 5th but it has to lug a little bit. It's tough to replicate at higher speeds than this just b/c I'm already pushing 60-65 in an acceleration before the symptoms. Maybe I need to get out on the interstate(uncrowded) and ramp from 65-80 and see if it's just as evident there. If not, then that would definitely be a low rpm over fueling issue. It's most prominent definitely when I'm pouring the fuel to it. At 55 degrees last nite, it was fueling so smoothly (just like in summer) that it made me smile. I drive it at 20 degrees outside and it stumbles and carries on like it's starved of fuel but maybe it's just pushing too much fuel to keep up like you guys are saying. That drive last nite proves to me that my set up is just perfect for me and then cold weather hits and I'm afraid I'm doing damage to my engine...I'm a confused soul on this! Thanks for thinking through this with me fella's.