woodtrucker

Well I thought everybody put 3 gallons in. So I guess I'll scale back to 11 quarts and that should put me much closer to being right on the dipstick. The leak is what I can't really figure out. I always fill the filter before putting it on and no the engine isn't a big mess on bottom nor do I have a lot of oil laying in the driveway. In fact, my pontiac gxp lays down a bunch more oil than my truck ever does in the driveway. The only place that seems to be wet is right around the back 1/4" of the perimeter of the oil pan about 1" up the bell housing alhtough it runs down the bottom of bell housing and drips off the bottom of bh. Everytime I get under it I do see droplets on several of the pan screws and the bottom of bell housing. I also usually see a drop off the small pvc that I routed straight down from the crank case breather. I didn't do the hose mod to back of engine. I just connect up a couple pcs of pvc and run it straight down the front of the engine and it drops right out. Still gets a little film on steering stabilizer but not much. no blow by no blue or white smoke ever I don't know if it's rear main seal. I would think oil would be half way up bell housing if so and I only see oil like I said, around where the oil pan sits and a little above the pan height but not much higher. Honestly it looks a little better under the engine as far as leaks after I re-torqued the pan bolts and resealed the power steering pump/vac pump. It seem to improve consumption a little but still too much.

Well, Probably 3-4 quarts every 5k miles. Here is how I've confirmed this. I have been changing oil every 5k miles since I bought the truck. I've put 30k miles on this truck so 6 oil changes have been 3gallons in, 2 to 2-1/4 gallons out. Every oil change is exactly the same. The crazy part of it is that the dipstick reads about 1/2" over the safe mark every oil change. I don't know if it has the wrong dipstick or not. I know the 98's had a tsb about wrong dipstick from factory but I didn't think that applies to the 02's. It might change about 1/4" on dipstick between oil changes and honestly I don't see much oil on my driveway either. No blowby with 115k miles so I am having a hard time believing that 3-4 quarts gets out of the oil pan without soaking down the rest of the underside of the truck or puddling up in the driveway. I have also re-torqued the oil pan two oil changes ago and it seemed to not help. It cut down a few small leaks in front of pan but rear of pan is still leaking in what seems like about the same rate based on what get's drained. Probably way more information than you really wanted here but this has been my observations over 4 years and I'm getting to a point with this truck that it's something I need to get it fixed.

I have had a leaky oil pan gasket since buying my truck in 2014. It has basically leaked the exact same amount every oil change and has not gotten worse. Trying to decide when to take the time to fix. I know it’s not going to go away but need to have some encouragement because I have put it off and put it off because I don’t like horsing around with heavy engines and such! I do have a lazy streak! Lol.

Well. I since I don't have a vac pump, I will have to take it somewhere to find the leak I guess. Have no real idea whether it has popped off due to a condensor clog, crapped out compressor, or just a busted line.

Started up my truck a few weeks back and I heard a loud pop and hiss...I thought it was just an issue with fuel as the truck was sitting for awhile. Get back in it a week later and run AC and it's not blowing cold at all so I blew something up. Hopefully just a hose. Any way to pressurize the lines with air to leak check?

This is awesome! I had been contemplating a posi-lok but really I only need to for backing our 5th wheel. Reverse is geared way too high in 2wd high. Need 2wd low so this is the perfect fix! Thanks for posting. I never even thought about doing this

The silver is a few shades darker than factory. It's almost gun metal silver. I think slightly darker silver w a little more flake gives it a little meaner look.

Thanks everybody. It is a great feeling to know that my clear coat is not turning into rust! Good suggestion Mike. 01 cummins-My father in law has graciously offered his farm truck for hauling wood so if there is a change I'll be getting into tight spots, I'll gladly take him up on that offer!

Welp. After owning this truck for 3 years without clear coat, I've finally got it fixed. I couldn't be happier.

Here's a sneak peak. Just a few more things left to assemble and it's done!!!! whooo-hooo!

Yeah. I agree with you. I would rather have solid color with any other color but black/silver for some reason. Red/silver is not too bad but black/silver rocks!

keeping it stock. two toned black/silver. I had thought about a vintage color like this but opted to just keep it stock and spend the money on higher end paint. I'm doing omni plus base/clear.

No but I have done some prep work like swapping out both of those doors, and I flap wheeled the roof and sanded hood to prep for my Buddy at work. He used to be a body guy and has done lots of custom paint work and he's doing it the rest for me!

Don't get too envious, bc you are looking at $700 worth of used rust free doors right there!

I can't help let y'all know that my truck is almost in primer. Should be getting base/cleared mid April sometime. Won't be long!

I am very happy with the looks of my solid rear glass. The bad part is that you have to get it tinted to match butterfly side windows on rear sides. Don't think you can even get an aftermarket solid glass tinted.

Interesting read. I might as well give it a try. I think that's the problem. I would think I'd have bigger problems if it was something on the VP-44. So is this all I need? I saw on your other post you talk about fittings but do I need to swap out fittings too? I assume that air dog spring will work on my ddrp02 correct?

I called FASS and they said it could possibly be the return line check valve on vp-44 or that the DDRP02 is not keeping up and overpressuring. Then he went on to tell me the ddrp-02 is not going to last long on my setup and I needed to go to titanium 150 for a cool $600. What is strange to me is that if it couldn't keep up, I could see fp's going low but fuel pressure spikes just don't make sense. Especially considering I am not in a hevy throttle condition when this happens. It's usually happening at idle or cruising throttle positions. I run an Edge EZ and 40 hp sticks and even when towing/or not sometimes fp runs textbook and sometimes it's spikey. I do think the ddrp02 has a return ball and spring but usually folks replace that when the spring doesn't have a high enough constant to keep fp UP to where it should be. FASS guy says that a lp that can't keep up can go low or go high as symptoms but I'm not sure I believe that.

isspro ev2 gauge. I have snubber on it too.

I may have posted here before. I have had this issue for sometime and have read that is a concern and also read that it's not a problem unless fp drops. My fuel pressure mostly runs at around 18ps and down to 14 psi at WOT when towing a heavy load. I noticed yesterday that while unloaded, I drove to round trip 5 hours and let truck sit for about 4 hours. Then when I got in it to leave to go home from work, my fuel pressure was bouncing up a lot. It will run at 18 psi or and it just so happen when cruising in 5th gear, the fp would drift up and down from about 24-25psi back down to 18psi. It did this a bunch of times and slowly settled out the longer truck ran but never completely cleared up. didn't do it at all on the trip. very strange. It's a ddrp-02 pump. thoughts? Sounds like it might be a return spring issue. Can this be replaced easily or should eat it and upgrade lift pumps? This lift pump probably has 40k on it.

that truck was an extended cab. I thought it was quad from pictures but I called and they said it was two door. I've pulled the passenger front and rear door off the truck. peeled back the door skin on bottom of the rear door and was able to clean out a lot of the rust between inner and outer shell. I may go ahead and buy the skin but I'm gonna let my body guy look at the clean up work I've done before I make that decision. Front passenger side will definitely need the inner/outer door skin patch panel so I've got a lot of work ahead but i think that door can be salvaged by patching it up at the bottom. in the meantime I'll keep on a lookout for salvage passenger door for cheap. I think I'm gonna linex the rockers just because I won't be able to stand chipping off the new paint job once I'm done. My dad had line x on his chevy and it looked great. Only thing I hate is that it will turn the silver two tone rocker to black. i don't think I want to paint match silver linex. I like the black look better for rockers with line-X. Will turn it to an all black truck but it will be worth it since rocks are tough on those curved rockers. If I could just get the doors patched and put back on so I can drive. That will comfort my soul give my wife the garage back! Lol.

I have found a 1997 quad cab (4door) 1500 like my 02 2nd gen 2500. Will those doors fit my truck? I need a passenger front and rear. Rust is too bad to keep it going.

I have run mine on 4 vehicles and it only recognized the VIN on my wife's Honda Odyssey van and my sister in laws Toyota Sienna van. All the others load up the vin blank. I have yet to fill them in but all the tools work and it will connect to each vehicle If you label each one. You should just plug it in, wifi should load up automatically although I check it first,then open app and push connect button at the bottom of app screen. I don't have it set up anymore automatic than that because I want physically see my vehicle profile load when I push connect. I am running on iphone7. It's a bit different than android I think. After you enter the stuff manually for the vehicle editor that doesn't load your vehicle for the first time, it should load from that point on when you switch vehicles.

Jag, Very interested in this long term. This had crossed my mind. Did you attach a temperature controller or something? I'm sure this would solve the problem of cold weather operation. Just bump it up in winter and back in summer. Awesome!