015point9

Thought I would put in needle valve in fuel pressure line, I'm using elec gauge. In the directions, Auto meter (gauge maker) says in couple different places says to use snubber. I like the idea of needle valve, if nothing else valve can used as shut off valve to that line. Still going to put in snubber (just to be safe) . 100 DF air dog. Branching off fuel line about where motor meets trans. Question........... The Needle valve, where is best position? All the way open or slightly open? Or just play with it a bit to find best position? Your thoughts please.

OP here.....Thanks... I do have some pipe dope. AND for the lock tight stuff. How does everybody keep theirs so the next time you use it, it is still good and not dried out?

"T" fitting in fuel line to pressure gauge is leaking. What's best to stop leak? Epoxy glue, thread locker, tephlon tape? This type of fitting in link. Not many threads to it and thin aluminum. http://www.dieselpowerproducts.com/p-7221-gdp-pushlok-fuel-pressure-sender-tee-38-12.aspx?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI3_SRouC21QIVD3R-Ch18VQxUEAQYCCABEgKsS_D_BwE Thanks

jlbayes ...Options are limited aren't they? FASS or AIrdog, or mechanical with fuel boss?

Not sure if this relates to your problem or not but easy to check. About 5 years ago my ABS light would came on or flicker on and off. Sometimes when cold ABS light would light up and other times it didn't. Thru lots of playing around, it turns out the wire connection right above the rear diff would comes loose, but only after driving awhile. Maybe the plastic connection warms up a bit after the diff warms up or just wiggles loose from our bumpy roads, I'm not sure? At any rate, the connection wiggles loose one reason or another. Mine looked tight but connection was loose enough to set off light. I still haven't fixed it right. I put a big screw type radiator hose clamp around it just as a test. Test worked so good that I haven't taken the time to fix it right yet. That connection is one of the things on my list to get when I find someone parting out their 2nd gen.

I had about the same happen to us with RV. And it broke at an RV park. Couldn't work on it myself. We had to have it towed to mechanic, that was only one in town. He did a hack job, said it was fuel module and dropped tank then and would only install Airdog, filled tank back up with red dye fuel and etc...so I know what your gong thru being broke down. Good thing you can work on it yourself. My carter only produces 7 or 9 psi. Vulcan says that is about right, and good enough to get you some place to replace your FASS pump. During regular business days call FASS and talk to Rick at 636 377 2140. Explain problem to Rick, you only need to buy replacement pump. Which is lots cheaper than entire system. As most will try to sell you entire system. You probably only need pump. Not mounting hardware, hoses, brackets, relay etc. You can have it shipped overnight to a UPS store, if one is handy. Also here is FASS pdf instructions. Don't overlook the "bucket test" on page 6 on instructions to confirm your what is wrong. http://www.thoroughbreddiesel.com/performance_images/fass/FASS-Technical-Guide.pdf We now travel with extra carter pump under back seat as my system goes from tank to pump to VP44. Being we ended up with a Airdog, Vulcan has a set up that now if pump fails all I have to do is disconnect hoses from airdog pump connect hoses to carter pump and same with wiring. Vulcan recommended it, for people that work in middle of nowhere, like oil fields, etc...works great. Still get a little diesel bath but not to bad.

Op here... Thanks for replies. Seems it doesn't matter if pump is closer to tank or closer to VP44? I was under the impression these type pumps "pushed" fuel better than they "suck"

Is there a "best" spot to install a FASS or Airdog pump? Thinking closer to tank because I heard the pumps are better at pushing fuel than pulling. What about cold weather? Any place better than another?

I'm waiting at a red light and guy cut corner short and runs into front of me in wives 06 CRV. Bumper needs replaced. Online bumpers cost $80-$130.00. Honda dealer wants $345.00. Doesn't need painted, just bolt on. Looking at YouTube vid, looks to me about maybe 2 hours remove and 2 hours replace. About 8 bolts and some plastic holders. My insurance company says get two estimates and they will fix. Estimates are $680.00 and $745.00. We were planning on trading her car in late this summer. But now wondering .... Will "car fax" show car has been in a wreck if insurance company does not pay to fix. My thinking is I might have better trade in value spending $130.00 of my own money versus having a car fax showing car has been in wreck. 1. Where does car fax get their info? (accident reports or insurance company's, etc) 2. Would you fix yourself or get insurance to fix?

If your looking for a solar deal, this might be it. Prices good for today only http://www.homedepot.com/SpecialBuy/SpecialBuyOfTheDay

Thanks for replies...

Found a replacement fuel tank for 2001 3/4 ton. It came with 3 rocks about 3/4 of inch by 3/4. My first thought was kids? Then again I wonder if the rocks were put in tank to slide around the bottom to keep it clean. Wondering if they were put in on purpose? Your thoughts... have you ever heard of this before?

Thanks for link Am I the only one that the pic's don't show up on above link?

X2 and maybe any special tools you needed. Are you going with stock or big dollar harmonic dampener. Big price difference and wonder if worth the extra money.

Go ahead, rub it in... I would like to have one. I ask Vulcan just the other day. He said he won't be making the bracket any time soon and changed the subject. I guess there is more machining to the bracket than what meets the eye. You have a great set up. Would you post another pic of it? Can't find your old one. The bracket would make a great project someday.

Op here... Thanks for replies.

Scored a fuel tank yesterday, and in process of correcting 1/4 tank issues. Is it alright to use stainless metal bolts and a nylox nut to keep basket in position. My corrugated draw straw is the thing only providing tension between bottom of basket and top. I’m extending draw straw, so no longer will draw straw provide spring tension. I'm thinking the basket needs something to keep draw straw sucking near bottom of tank. I don’t know if stainless steel or nylox is OK to use in fuel system... or should I use some type of glue? What is OK to use in fuel system? Thanks

Two questions about fuel module 1. Bottom of fuel module there is a couple screen filters. I broke mine yesterday trying to clean the module up. With an Airdog and 2 micron filter, do I even need to have a screen? 2. If screen is not needed, can I cut off the bottom and extend draw straw to make sure zero chance of ¼ tanks issues? Thanks

Guess I'm going to have to drive. But going to try to get trans work done when we are over there for other things (family reunion or a graduation in late June). Reason I don't want to drive to him is... I get so tired going that way, more often than I want to. Some of my in-laws are only about 5 miles from Jon in Veradale or now called Spokane valley. Did Jon say how often to adjust bands?

Does he flush out trans cooler or anything else that he needs the entire truck for at time of install or any future servicing? I might take mine over to him in back of wives CRV. Then again he might want to "test" drive it before turning over to customer. You got me thinking...A guy in neighborhood hauls cars around to different car dealers, mostly I-5 Sacramento/ San Francisco area to our (Puget sound) area. He gave me a phone number of a guy that goes east I-90, as far as Billings MT. But the cost added up quickly, a buck a mile for entire truck. So going both ways cost would by about $600.00 just for freight. I'll check into just getting the trans over there and back.. Then again I wonder how much trouble I could get into R&R the trans myself?

2001 coming up on 100K. Do all late 90's and early 2000's have killer dowel pin problem or just the 53 block? I know my odds of a failure are slim; coming up on 100K. But want to make sure. I'm unsure if "Mexican" block cracks more than the "53" series or if the killer dowel pin getting loose and falling is prone to one block or another or both? Thanks

Thanks for update. Sounds like you're pleased. I'm saving my $$$ to get mine done also.

I currently have fuel module and tank out, going to re-route fuel line and few other things. Thumbing thru new TRD part magazine today...they have the gasket that goes on top of module. Mine is in-tacked and I don't see any cracks. And can't remember reading any problems with these. But...Is it a good idea to replace with new? I'd hate to drain and pull this tank in the future again just for a gasket. Do they go bad? What would you do? Thanks

Op here... maybe wrong but I'm planning on leaving my fuel strainer intact. My basket worked many years with return line dumping into it. My thinking is enough fuel is getting into basket to keep

(Just being a smart aleck) Be careful with those Idaho women. Meet my Idaho women when stationed near your old home when stationed at Camp Pendleton, CA. She had two years at University of Idaho, back then women mostly choose “home economics”. Her schooling still comes in handy today. Coming up on 44 years of married life. Never had a fight, well actually stated better, we haven’t killed each other yet:) Best of luck to you both.