Rogan

A buddy of mine has an 04 3500 6spd, 4wd, srw, 248k milesHe has a bhaf, 3pc exh. mani, 4" turbo back exhaust, and a predator programmer.the past few days, he's noticed a noise under boost. I haven't heard it, but he likened it to a coach's whistle..He initially thought his turbo (351cw) was failing, but I said no, as it's fine and makes tons of boost.I think it's a leak or something somewhere. While inspecting his truck last night, I noticed that the vband connection from turbo to downpipe is leaking. It's tight, so I think maybe a flange lip is trashed or something..could that sound be from there?He's also starting to push oil a little. Taking the trim off of the valve cover, the top of the cover is pretty oily. Possibly the filler cap and/or that thingamabob that bolts to the middle of the cover (some pcv/emissions thing?)Any assistance is appreciated.

Ok, it seems to be a little better for shifting. I still am forced to manually disengage OD in town, however, as it'll shift into OD early and slip badly under load. Over 30-35mph, and OD feels fine.Yesterday, we had an odd day, with clear skies and 70*F.. how weird..so, I took advantage and installed my new $21 RockAuto.com transmission line (the front one to side cooler), as well as used brass 1/2" union to repair the line that you're forced to buy from Dodge ($80) that goes from the forward one of the side cooler to the front-mounted cooler..The new line from rockauto needs a little tweaking to fit. It' a little short and over-bent, but I managed to get it to work and I do not see any future issues arising from the "adjustments" :)So after 3 or so months, I've finally gotten that line replaced. It's amazing how that small block-mounted trans cooler cools the fluid.. It must be hella efficient.

Welcome to the family!Army vet here.

So, totally tire UN-related..I see your first offroader was an M60A1. Mine was an M60A3, then an M1A1

ive got a bhaf and 4" exhaust, yet it's still fairly quiet. almost have to listen for it.. It's nowhere near as obnoxious as it was on my 24v.

my 2001 6spd would really ring my ears when pulling heavy up long inclines at ~20-25psi.. Almost loud enough to be unbearable.. My '97 auto is hardly noticeable, yet both were without silencer ring..

You sparked a thought of something I'd forgotten.. Thank you! I used that diagram months ago to set up the lockup switch.. When I fixed some wiring on the PCM a week or so ago, I'd rewired the OD lockup wire back to original, as well as the TCC lockup. HOWEVER, I forgot to replace the relay and pull the jumper.. I just now went out to the parking lot and pulled the jumper and re-installed that relay. I'll see how it acts on the way home now.. :banghead::banghead:

I'm not for certain, but I don't think there's much (if at all) difference in the 2000 and 2002 VP trucks.. Michael???

Jon,Just so I am clear, did you use the pdf for wiring diagram for this conversion?If so, it sounds as though you have the low and high beam wires either backwards at the conversion connector (CC), or at the relays. Basically, when your HB indicator is on, test the wires at the CC and ensure the hot one is going to the relay(s) that power your HB lights.Basically, the VIO/WHT wire from the truck's factory HL harness is the HB (switched grounding) wire. This should go to pin 85 of your HB relay of the conversion.The VIO/RED is 12V and should go to both HB and LB relays at pin 86.The RED/ORG wire is a switching ground signal for the LB relay, at pin 85.It sounds to me that you've just got that backwards somewhere.. You've possibly just overlooked the wiring to the correct relay..

I've got a new trans line coming from Rock Auto. Supposed to be here tomorrow..

I'll have to see, ISX. I haven't barred this one over yet. I know the first 12V and the 24V turned quite easily with the alternator nut.It's always started really easy, per se, until this cold snap we're in, came through.

all i can tell you is that it is a 47RE (early) due to the governor solenoid and pressure sensor style that is in it.. It's supposed to be a built trans, but I've no way to know that for sure. The PCM looks to be a replacement, and the local trans shop charged me $100 to tell me he can't access it since the VIN used to code the PCM is unknown... Eastern Diesel Performance in Westminster, MD is who built the trans and did the PCM, wiring, etc.. One google search will explain why I'm having so much trouble with it.. and no, they don't return any calls. I've replaced the gov. solenoid, pressure sensor, filter, fluid (3 times now since July, one was on purpose LOL ) and checked/verified/fixed some of the trans wiring. I've also replaced the Output shaft speed sensor. I can PM you my number if he is interested in calling me.. - - - Updated - - - I just pulled codes on it and got P1757 mind you, I replaced this last summer with a BW HD governor...

I'll have them load-test the batteries this afternoon. Starter contacts are good.I did see some corrosion on the cross-over cable from the passenger side to the drivers side battery. Corrosion was on the pass. side positive cable, right where it enters the lead terminal.Once started, it charges 13.8-14.3V so that part is fine. It's been out in the parking lot for a couple hours now, and I went out, turned the key on, waited on the WTS light to go out, and it fired right up. it's 21*F out right now, and the coolant temp gauge is buried on cold side.

can you get away with putting a new comp wheel and housing on it?

I put new batteries in (Exide 27) a few months ago. The truck has started fine.We've recently been in a cold snap (highs in the upper teens) and the truck often will not start. It is very slow cranking. Very slow, to almost dead. If I put the charger on and set it to 10A, I can wait about 15min and can get it to start. However, it will NOT start and run unless I hold the accelerator pedal down. Once it fires, I have to continue to hold the idle high for about 30-45 seconds before it'll keep itself running.This is more so an issue if I don't plug it in during the night.I have to go out (at work) and start it every couple of hours, otherwise it will not start when I leave work in the evening..

just my opinion, but those wire gauges on that thing look kinda chinsy.

So, yesterday I ordered a new steel line for my transmission. Yesterday (after), my trans line blew apart again, and dumped 2 gal. of fluid down the street.. :banghead: 99% of my problems with this !@#$% truck revolves around this transmission. I'm so sick of this thing. I can't afford to fix it, and I cant afford to replace it. So I'm sorta stuck. It's been really cold here the past week, highs in the high-teens.. I noticed Tuesday that it started doing something 'new'.. It shifts okay, for awhile. Then if I come to a stop and sit for a minute or so, it doesn't seem to want to engage 1st gear.. even manually, it doesn't want to do it. If I cycle the ignition, it seems to start using 1st again. I'm at a friggin loss with this damned thing... - - - Updated - - - I'd love to pick his brain for about 10-15 minutes..

Yeah, my first 'street-legal' bike was a Suzuki TS 185 Blue.. I remember my sister and brother got a Trail 70 back in the EARLY 70s.. to me (I was about 5 or 6) it looked absolutely huge.. Maybe I can get over to storage and get you a current picture of one of these

My 2001 played 'The Wanderer' more than a 60's radio station and Dion's mom, put together. I put the steering box brace on (sometimes called a steering stabilizer) and it helped tremendously. Took about 80-90% of the 'play' feeling from the steering wheel. It no longer looked like I was cutting wood with a handsaw when I drove.

I tried that with a spring, and it just didn't really seem to help much, in my case, anyway..

Just food for thought: The standard 15A GFCI receptacle are rated for 20 amp feed through. Feed-through means that the incoming line can continue at the same amperage rating. Each "plug-in position" on a 15 ampere duplex receptacle is rated for up to 15 amperes although the entire receptacle (assuming a 20 ampere "pass through" rating) is rated for a maximum of 20 amperes. So that could mean 15 amperes in one position and 5 amperes in the second position or any other similar combination. The only true 20 amp GFCI receptacles usually are found in commercial location and they are generally a little more expensive than standard 15 amp GFCI receptacles are. In the residential usage it very rare to see a true 20 amp receptacle [ GFCI or standard type ] not very many appliances that really required a 20 amp plug with 20 amp receptacle.

As War Eagle stated, you can do this, but ensure same gauge wire is used, ties are in a junction box, and circuit current is not exceeded.My bathroom downstairs is done this way. The fart-fan comes on with the light, and is tied together in a junction box, black to black, white to white, ground to ground.

Me and dirt bikes go way back. I used to race motox way back in the day; think: steel gas tanks and dual rear shocks.. :lmao:Raced in Texas, and OK. Started out on the YZinger, then moved to the RM60, then RM80, then (yes) RM100, onto the 125, then 250. (mostly under the Dallas South Suzuki banner)Did some trials riding and stuff, as well, with the likes of Bultaco 250, a Husqvarna 125, a Penton six-day 125, and various others.As for quads, I've only had a few.. quadsport, and quadracer. Did have a Honda Odessey FL250 and FL350R buggies back in the 80s, as well.three-wheelers were the hot stuff back in the day. I had a Honda 185-S, a ATC-250R 3 wheeler, a 200-S, and A kawasaki something er other..Then I moved into WERA and amateur super bike. '88 and '89 GSXR-750Rs were the asphalt weapons of choice.I stopped riding as much, after I broke my neck in 2003.