dripley

That is pretty low mileage. But if you have a set of new ones I would put them in and see what happens.

Same here my friend. I was able to get mine under control with Naproxen and some stretching exercises.The pain went away for a year or two. Then it came back while working in NW Iowa. Got pretty bad and I was scheduled to see a podiatrist. About 3 days before that is when my Achiles tendon tore. That was bad but it only took about 8 weeks to get over. Dealt with the heel spurs for a little more that 2 years. No fun what so ever. But I consider myself pretty lucky that I deal with no pain for now.

465k.

thats what I thought you meant. Mine were fine as were the seals. They looked new in the head. Still replaced them though. No bits and pieces like I saw in Mikes head. The only times I have ever seen any blue smoke out of mine were when the oe VP failed and when start it up in the low 20's with out plugging it in. This is without the grids connected. I dont see it in the upper 20's or if I have plugged in. Nothing on initial start up either. Hopefully all is well. I told the machine shop if anything extra needed to be done I was willing to pay for it as long as they called me and explained it. I put trust in them and we will see how it turns out. On a different note, the head is on and torqued. FWIW I did the check torque method. I was surprised that after the second torque to 77 lbs that I still got movement out of all the bolts. The closer to the ends of the head the less movement. The movement on the end bolts was negligible and may not have really moved. But that last 90* turn was a bit strenuous. The 77 was easy. So tomorrow the exhaust manifold and turbo. Hopefully will get the injectors, fuel lines and then the rockers. I would be nice to hear it run tomorrow evening. We shall see.

My MAP failed but the engine ran fine just under a very defueled state. As in 39% being most load I saw on the engine. Per SGII anyway. How old are your injectors?

No brass at the hardware store only nylon. Hosed them with carb cleaner, ran the thru them then hosed them out again. Got a good bit of crud out of then. Took one the bolts andran then to the bottom of hole dry with my fingers. You just had to add procedure C. I at procedure C. Think I'll just use the breaker bar on there and give it a pull. This bodes another question. Check/re torque to 77 then turn 90* more or do the check/re torque in sequence then go back and turn the additional 90* in sequence? I appreciate all the input gentlemen. The head is on the truck. Just got thru cleanig all the bolts and need get it torqued down today. Forgot to get a pick before flipping the. My brother helped me get it on and he has bum hand. Did not have the balls to make him flip it again. Managed to set it on there gently.

I left mine alone. Thought it might have been part of problem with the electrical gremlis I was dealing with. I have no issues other than the MAP sensor going out since I addressed the 5v suppy wire for the sensors. Seems I have issues crop up every time I fix some thing else. Lord knows what I might find after installing the head. I figure it will run in reverse in every gear when I'm done. Maybe we should start a pool.

Two fingers and no resistance. I hit holes with carb cleaner andit blew the crud out of them. Suckedup with a vac as it came out. The uncleaned ones not so. I am figuring they are good as long as they go in that easy. Are you saying they are seperate from the head and replaceable or drill the hole out and install something aftermarket? My seals were all intact and the valves were reasonably rigid in the head. I did not have any pieces of seal on the head like Mike did. We did replace the seals but nothing to the guides.

Sensor grounds. About 8" out of the ECM plug. It is shown on the wiring diagram. It also appears to be the style of splice.

The tap fits the bolt perfectly. But it will not go down the bolt hole even though the bolt will. I find that odd.

This says to use a 12 X 1.75 tap on the threads. Outside of the article another thing I thought thats interesting is the head bolts only thread into the block only about 3/4 of an inch when there is at least sn 1 1/2" of threaded hole. I called him but he did not answer. As far as the guides go they are cast into the head and un serviceable from what I have read. I did tell when it got there and the 2 visits I made that if it needed more attention just call me. They have been in buisness longer than I have lived here. So I guess I put alot of trust in them. I saw the head with all the springs off but did not have tiime to see their next step. Apparently the 2nd and 3rd gens still might share traits even up into the 4 gens. The FSM I have was written 18 years ago, things chang How well have youf rocker assemblies held up your 01? I was not happy seeing mine. I did expect better. Thanks gor the input, now me and Lucy got some thinning to do.

Thats what it says, re check. Took me this long find it. But it does bode another question. Would breaking one bolt loose at a time compromise the head gasket? If I am not mistaken that is the process fori nstalling head studs on a bolted cylider head. But since you torque the studs tighter torque, is that why you can get away with bresking the bolt loose?

IIRC you go to the first value then the second value, which is 77 lb/ft then recheck the 77 and turn 90*. I do not remember a recheck of the first value. Hmmm.. Maybe just to make you sure you did the second step right, I dont know. But step 3 is to recheck the torque, hence breaking it loose. This is my understanding and I am not speaking from experience by any means, hence all the questions. Now for the both of you. What if any opinions due you 2 have on the 6.7 rocker assemblies?

The reason I asked was reading another thread here about rechecking torque on something. And it said to recheck the torque on something the bolt needed to be broken loose to get an accurate torque on the bolt. I could be mistaken though. Absolutely. Thats why I did not try and force it, just used my fingers. I rinsed the holes out with carb cleaner and got a good bit of debris like @Dieselfuture described seeing in his. Mine has also only been sitting for a few days and has not had time for the muck in there to dry out so I am thinking the carb cleaner should have cleared the threads pretty good. Like I say I can freely spin the bolt into the hole with 2 fingers and back out again with no binding at all. I am thinking if I can do that it should fine. Any thoughts on that?

That would explain why the bolt goes in but the tap does not. The tap I have when laid against the bolt fits like a glove. I will make another trip in the am and double check. This bodes another question. If the bolts thread freely into the holes with my fingers is chasing really nevessary?

I am pretty happy about that myself. The only thing bad wear wise was the rocker assemblies.

Question time. Does anyone know the bolt and thread size for the head bolts? I bought a 12 x 1.75 tap that fits the bolt and the bolt screwed into the sample bolt hole. I cleaned the first 10 bolt holes on the block with carb cleaner and the head screws all the way to the bottom. When I put the tap in I only can get a 1.5 to maybe 2 turn in them with fingers. Afraid to go any further with it until I know this is the right tap The torque procedure in the FSM shows the bolt sequence and torque values. The 3rd step says to double check the 77 ft pounds done in step 2. The way I understand that is I need to break the bolts and re torque to the 77 ft pounds and then one more quarter turn. Do I need to remove that blot re lube and reinstall or just break loose a retorque?

They are used. I got them off of ebay from Pametto injection out of SC. I got the rocker assemblies, bridges and the push rods for $256 to the door. I had to gamble and pulled the trigger pretty quick on them. I never could find anything or anyone who could confirm they would fit. I did however find a thread on CF with gent who said that 2018 rockers would fit and swears the new ones are pretty reasonable. Of course I found this out a couple days later. There is a touch of scuffing in these but I can see them but not feel them with finger or finger nail. So I think I am better off with these. I picked up the head today. Total bill $345. They said the valves were fine and all they to do was polish them. No cracks in the head and it held pressure fine. Looks beautiful. The wife just drove off in the Saturn with it in the trunk. Hope drives smart. Left her phone here so I cant reminder her its there.I am not going to think about that for now.

The original version from WT. He explains it well here. Some folks have hard time getting thru the in depth explanation so @Mopar1973Man shortened it. It is more involved than just moving the ground, but it is easy to do and worth the effort. .

You hit it on the head. Have not been at all for the past couple years. Pretty up and down the interstate for the past 60k. Even when I was moving the rv, I only did that 4 to 6 times a year. Maybe only 10 to 15% of my miles are towing heavy. Here is something to compare. My rockers and shafts were scored. The scoring is not the comparison I speak of. Its the rocker assemblies. The oily rockers are mine. The bridges, mine on the left as in each pair. These are out of a 6.7 with the updated rocker shaft, added oil groove. 2002Ramparts (2).pdf

I ran 50's in mine with the comp. To smokey for my taste. You could not smoke out an intersection by any means but still smokey. I could mostly get around that by rolling into throttle insteadof stabbing it. It did hot quick too with the Comp. Had to turn down to level 2 to keep the heat under control while towing. I have run the rv's with and without the comp. Not smokey at all without and very little with. I ran level 3 towing with rv's without heat issues. I ran the rv's for about 3 years with out a tuner, every day driving and towing. They are a decent up in power and I got about a 1.5 mpg boost out of them. I am replaing my head gasket at the moment and did purchase a set of rebuilt rv's from @dieselautopower. I would have bought new ones but I may end up with a quad in the so bigger injectors might be in my future. Figures these will be fine for a while until I decide whether to make the switch. My vote is for the RV's especially if you dont have gauges. You will like them. The difference between 2 are negligible and the RV's are brand spanking new.

Mine shoud have said .035 to .010. Not .001

Good news. The head is not cracked and holds pressure. Hope to have it back tomorrow pm. @pepsi71ocean no go on the porting. They dont do that there. Did not have time to seek out a performanc shop to do the porting. I'll just have to stay stock.

Mine dropped from .035 to .001 on the ground mod alone.

I have had to deal with heal spurs. You can complain all you want and I understand. I would not wish them on any one. The walk from the bed to the toilet in the 5th wheel was excruciating and it was only 2 steps away. Good luck with the truck.