jonathan1950

I was wondering about a plastic tee that slips into a rubber hose, like a vacuum line? There is not a lot of pressure, so not sure if that would solve the problem or just push it farther down the road? I guess it has lasted almost 400,000 miles, so it can not be all that bad, might just have to get a few new parts and wait another 400,000 miles?

They said that the tee fittings are back east, but the seals are in Portland. So it does not sound like it comes in a kit unless the tee's that are back east are a set? I will check with a cummins dealer to see what they have on hand. I was not sure if I could just get some O-rings from the hardware store?

Thank you, it was the Dodge dealership. I can try the Cummins dealers and see how much for them there.

I have developed a fuel leak that appears to be coming from the tee on the back of the engine. I called the dealership and found that in the tee are rubber seals, these may be the problem but the dealership wants twenty dollars apiece for them. Any ideas on what else to use?

I have some pictures to post, but not sure how to do it? The wiring was tore up around the cross member, it hangs down a little too far.

Yep, this place is remote also, a little bigger than your grandpa's place, but just as remote. The big boss had to buy a house in town when the kids started high school as the only school out here is a one room class room that goes up to eight grade. His mom would bring the kids out for the weekends, then back in town monday morning to go to school. When they buy the next new truck it will most likely be a Ford, unless he starts having better luck with the Dodge and Dodge keeps putting a manual in the diesel. The only reason they purchased the Dodge's is that it is the only truck that had a manual trans. If Dodge does away with the manual in the diesel the it will be back to Fords. We have a whole bone yard of Fords up on the hill, not much else in the way of other trucks. I do not think a pto would matter to the ranch. When we get stuck, even a winch is of no use as there is nothing to hook it to. We have tractors and some heavy equipment if we need to pull stuff out, so I do not think a pto would be something that the boss is looking at? From the sounds of it, even the gas Dodges do not have the option for a manual, I would think that if they did the boss would have gotten a gas rig, but they might and the boss decided to try the diesel. Kinda glad they did, now hauling stuff to town does not take all day like when I have the V-10.

Some of the neighbor ranchers have autos and it is a mixed bag. The biggest issue is when we get stuck in snow or mud is is more difficult to be able to rock the truck back and forth to try and get out. I do not want to say we are hard on equipment, but we are very hard on equipment. I will try and find out what is being torn off, but Dodge will not fix it under warranty, all I have been told is it is the wiring harness has to be replace. Our Ford trucks are V-10's, the only reason the ranch bought diesels is because that is the ONLY truck that was able to be ordered with a manual trans. I will try and get some pictures, but not sure when the truck will get back from the dealership? I am thinking with the problems the boss is having with the Dodge, the next time he goes truck shopping will be for another Ford gas, it might have an auto but at least it will not have the DEF on it. I understand it is hard to comprehend the abuse trucks get out here. The ranch trucks see maybe 1% pavement, the rest of the time we are on gravel roads, dirt roads or no roads at all. I had a set of recapped tires on the Dodge that only lasted 15,000 miles until they were bald. Our Fords go to the mechanics on a regular basis, so it is not unusual, but if not for the DEF the Dodge would be holding up pretty well so far. I will work on pictures, as soon as his truck is back from the dealership.

The problem is that the ranch is a long ways from town and twice now the DEF system has had problems. He does not want to be 80 miles from town when the truck goes into limp mode and only allows him 5 mph! He is not looking for better mileage or more power, he just does not want the problems with the DEF. This is the second time the truck has been in the shop for the DEF system, the first time it cost him around $2,000.00 to have it fixed. This time it has been in over a week, not sure when it will be done and will cost him at least as much as the first time. The dealership will not warranty the repairs because they say that the wiring harness was torn up, so the boss is having to eat the repair work. I am not against the DEF system, but so far it has been a huge cost and inconvenience. I am not sure any amount of skid plates will work out here, we are in some pretty rough country? They are a Ford family, but since they can not get a Ford truck with a manual trans, this was the only option, I would like to see Dodge work out, but so far it is not looking good. He has commented that they might just have to go back to Fords and start running auto's? We do not have emissions out here, heck, some of our trucks do not even have a license plate, so that will not be a problem, the problem is it keeps breaking down due to the DEF.

I have seen where people buy a totaled truck and use it as a donor? This would get you all the pieces that you will need. I found most of my parts on ebay. I bought the trans, bell housing, pedals, clutch master and slave cylcinders, fly wheel and one or two other items from one seller as kinda a kit. I think if you look around you might find something like that. Also, Light Truck Parts on Foster might have a parting out truck that you might be able to get a lot of parts off of? Might be worth looking into them, or they might have a good lead for sourcing parts?

This is up to the 2012 model, there is no info for the 2013 on the site. As mopartechnician has stated they must be working on the 2013 models now, hopefully they will have them out soon.

Glad to hear that, I will have to keep an eye out as to when they come on the market, as we will be needing two of them for our trucks.

Nope, I did not need any spacer or adaptor. My five speed bolted right in. You will need the flywheel, but that bolted in place of the flex plate. I went with a stock clutch, I have not had any problems with it yet, but I do not abuse it. Depending on how you will use it you might want to upgrade to a better clutch? Any other questions, I will try and answer. You will like the NV4500.

Looking at them they only go to 2012, have you used them on newer trucks? If so is it the 2012 programmer that is used on a 2013 model cab and chassis?

Last year the boss bought two '13 Dodge cab and chassis trucks. I ended up with one of them and the boss has the other. My truck has been trouble free so far, but his has been to the dealership twice so far for def problems. Both times it has been due to the wiring harness being ripped out, if you see the country we drive in you would understand. Is there any fix to the def problem on a 2013 truck? They are both stock, base models, 4X4, manual trans, even hand crank windows. He will not want to add power, he just wants to not go into limp mode 100 miles from town. Other than stop being so abusive to the truck, any advice. Thank you.

Yes, you can do it with out a hoist, it is a little more work but I did mine without a hoist. It would be nice to jack the truck up a few inches, but that is not even necessary. You will not be able to get the tranny under the truck on the trans jack without the truck jacked up a little bit, but the trans will slide under the truck frame, then roll the trans on the jack. As for the clutch safety switch, there is one under the dash, if I remember correctly you will have to hook it up to a ground? It is easy to do and you will have no problem doing it, heck, I did it to my truck. The brake and clutch pedals will switch out with your brake pedal, no modifications needed, just undo a circle clip, slide the bar out, drop out the brake pedal and line the new brake pedal up, slide the bar through it then the clutch pedal. It is a bit of a pain, but a lot nicer than having to cut and fab brackets. The NV4500 is a good choice, I read too many bad things about the 5600. Nothing against the 5600, but the less problems with the trans and getting parts the better. You do not really gain anything with the six speed, low gear and high gear are about the same ratio, just closer ratio between gears. Best of luck, if you have any questions, ask, I or someone else will have an answer.

I did a swap several years ago and would not trade back. I have had only one issue, that is my brake/abs light comes on. My mileage increased by around four mpg, which was nice but not why I swamped transmissions. One thing I found during my research is the difference between the NV4500 and NV5600. I went with the five speed as I heard a lot of people say that the six speed cost more to buy, more to repair and parts are harder to come by. As Moparman pointed out, low and OD are basically the same, you just have closer ratio between them, but I have not had issue one with the ratio difference. Many people said it would be easier to just sell my truck and buy a manual, but the swap was almost as easy as R/R an auto transmission. I did have to have the front drive shaft shortened, but was able to use my rear drive shaft with no issues. The input shaft on the transfer case has to be changed, but it was pretty easy. If anyone has any questions I will try and help, I would recommend this to anyone who wants the reliability of a manual.

Does it matter if it is a five speed or auto ECM? I am thinking not as it is for the engine and not the powertrain, but I looking at getting a used one and not sure if it needs to be the same that I have now or if any will work?

Thank you Joe, maybe it was the start of things? It will get worked out, the truck has been running good so it will be worth getting it fixed no matter what it is.

So even with no codes it could be the PCM? I will have to see if I can find another PCM then.

My question is that if it is a bad pcm, then there should not be any power to the injection pump. I read that if there is power to the injection pump then the truck will start and idle, but there would be no input signal from the pcm when I push on the throttle? I did have to run the truck a couple hundred miles with 10 to 12 psi, so I am thinking that that caused the injection pump to sieze. If the pcm is bad would that not throw a code or two? If the injection pump is siezed but the electronics still good then it should not throw a code? Getting it started and running with ether makes me suspect a bad injection pump also, but I am not positive and you may be correct that it might be a bad pcm and I am looking in the wrong place?

So the other day my truck would not start. When I turned on the key, the WTS light did not come on, then it would crank and crank and not fire. I opened three injector lines, but no fuel was coming out of them as I cranked. I finally used some starting fluid to get it running. Two of the lines still did not have any fuel coming out of them and the truck was running rough. I closed all the lines, reved the engine up and it finally started firing on all six. I was able to drive it, even shut it off and restart it, but then a few days later when I tried to start it it would just crank with not fire. I checked the voltage going into the VP44 and I do have voltage in what I think is the correct pin. I am not getting any error codes, but am wondering if it might be the injection pump that is bad and not the electronics? the reason for this is the fact that when I opened the fuel lines, even when running two of the lines did not have fuel squirting out of them. Any thoughts of other things to check on before I replace the injection pump. Also, I have taken out the auto trans and replaced it with a 5 speed, do I still need to use the S.O. injection pump? I am not sure if I will gain anything as I do have 75 hp injectors, so it may be just as simple to stay with what I have?

Yank, I do not see any fuel coming out from the wires, I will keep an eye on it though. I am wondering if it might be related to the draw straw? It seems that when I have a full tank of fuel the pressure is near normal, but right now I am down to a quarter tank of fuel and at idle I am sitting at around 15 psi, running at 60 mph, empty I am sitting around 12 psi. Not sure why it would drop like that as the tank was going down other than the draw straw? I have not found any other place, but did get some washers for the return line at the back of the head, so I hope this week to get them installed.

I love my 75 hp DAP, my exgirlfriend said my truck loved her more than my, I am guessing that it was the engine. I gained a few mpg, but the injectors really woke the engine up. I have heard a lot of good about smaller injectors, but if I were to do it again I think I would stick with the 75's. Wish I was closer, I would come over and help, I don't think that you will have any problems at all.

Doing the injectors is pretty straight forward, I think that you should be able to do them yourself Joe, there are a few write ups here and lots of help if you need any. I did mine and it only took a little over two hours total.

Thank you for that, I hope to pressure wash the underside of the truck in the next few days, after I do I will drive it for a bit then check for leaks. If I find any I will let you know and contact them. Thank you again Ed for the information.