jonathan1950

I had seen that, not a lot of room under there to do things much different. The next time in town I was thinking of picking up something to wrap those hoses in to keep them from chaffing. Other than that I think it will work, there are a few places that it is bent pretty tight but it is not kinked, so I should still have good fuel flow. Looking back I should have gotten a few 90* fittings to go from the pump to the filter, but the way I have it it seems to work.

I should save around $100 or so. For a set of 75 hp injectors the lowest price I found was $350, so I am looking at $250 when I get them back. I know that it will take about a week, but to me it is not that big of a deal as my truck can sit for months on end and not be used. I only go to town once a week in my personal vehicle and I have a Jimmy that I take since it is a little better on fuel and is a gas rig so it is cheaper to buy gas than diesel. Six days a week I have the ranch truck to use and do not need to drive my truck. If it where my dd then it would be different and I would want to get it back on the road as fast as possible, but for me that is not the case.

I have already purchased the nozzles, they cost $150, the diesel shop said that to replace the nozzles and pop test them it would be about $100. I should be into it about $250, it will take a week or so, which is fine as I do not drive the truck very much at all. I work 6 days a week, only go to town once a week and have another vehicle to drive into town. Time is not as important as money, so I figure to save a few bucks I could let my truck set for a few extra days.

I would have liked to have added clevices but I could not find any. I am sure if I looked around I could have found some. The ranch has a 220 wire feed welder. It is nice to have some of the right tools like a plasma cutter and oxy/acetylene, but we could have used a pipe bender also. I just took my time, made several fittings and it turned out pretty good.

Maybe I should send them to you thracing? I might if this shop does not work out. I am thinking that it will, they say they do a lot of injectors, but of course they are not positive about the CTD. Here are pictures of what I just took out. They go from #1 to #6.

I was actually doing scrap at the time. I got a call to remove a refridgeration unit, it had a Kabota engine and that was the filter setup that it had on it. I still have the Kabota engine, thought that I might use it someday, now I am thinking that I should try and sell it. You might want to check Napa or Carquest. The filters I bought for it came from Carquest, so they might sell them there. Wish that I could be of more help, they must be out there, I just am not sure where to look. I do not know if it will help, but the filter numbers are 86353 and 86439, they may be able to cross reference then numbers and come up with something, good luck.

I had thought about that but I am on a limited income so I am trying to make upgrades with out spending a lot of money. I figured that I would be able to reuse my injectors, just have the tips changed and have them pop tested and set. I know sometimes it cost more money to do it cheap, but sometimes it does not need to cost a lot of money to do it right. There is a diesel shop in town that says they can pop test the injectors and set them to the correct pressure, I thought that I might find out it anyone has done it this way and how hows it worked? I might be the first but I do not think so. I will let people know how it works for me, I know it will not be the be the way everyone wants to do it, but it might be a good alternative for some people.

So now that I have my fuel system upgraded, I am going to be putting in 75 hp nozzles. My injectors seem to be good, plenty of power, 22 mpg empty, so my question is can I send my injectors out and just have the nozzles replaced and them pop tested and adjusted? From the sounds of it, when people buy new injectors for their trucks they send in the old injectors for core deposit, so I am assuming that the old ones are rebuilt and sold to someone else. Some time this week I am hoping to get into town to a diesel shop to drop the injectors and tips off, so I guess that I am hoping that this will work and I can get a few more ponies out of the Ram. I am not sure how many miles are on the current injectors, I purchased the truck with 316,xxx miles on it and it is now around 350,xxx, but the previous owner took very good care of it, but did not modify it at all.

The ranch that I work on lets us use their shop, so I had some extra metal around, purchased some more metal and built my own. It is not exactly how I wanted it, but it is close and it will do the job I made it for, mainly keeping animals out of my radiator. I looked at a lot of other bumpers, seen what I liked and started fabing it. I do have room for a winch in the future if I want to put one on, but there are a lot of other things to do before that, but like I said, I did research and found what I wanted and thought of what I might add in the future and built accordingly.

Up and running, 20 psi at idle, only drops 3 psi at wide open throttle but that is with no load. I am hoping to run it under load soon to see if it has any more of a drop with a load than just empty.

So I have some time and a dry shop to do some work on the truck. I have a draw straw that I am going to install in an old in tank pump, that way I can have the suction in the basket. I have fabricated some mounting brackets for the Raptor and filter setup. Also I bought some 1/2" hose and some fittings to run 1/2" line the whole way up. I will be keeping the oe filter housing and have a big line kit to go from the factor filter to the VP.Here are some of the parts and pieces of the fuel system. I will figure how to install the pump and filters and still have them protected. Not sure how it will look as of yet, that will be the fun part.

Sounds like an ignition problem. Not sure why it would only have 2-3 psi boost? How does the air filter look? I have had a tractor down on power, changed the air filter and power was back. Also as everyone will ask, any codes? Just my .

I ordered and just installed a big line kit from the stock filter to the VP-44. I will be installing a 1/2" draw straw, 1/2" line from the tank up to the stock filter, but I will also be installing an aftermarket filter and water seperator. My concern is that very few people put the aftermarket filter before the fuel pump. With limited room under my shortbed, this is how I will be doing it so I am hopeful that it will not be a problem.

That is a nice mounting bracket. I am looking at mounting my pump in front of the transfer case, this will give me room to mount it and also be out of the way. I am glad to hear that you have not had any problems with a filter first, all that I have seen have been pump first and then the filters. I hope to start the install sometime this week.

I have all the parts and pieces to install my Raptor and 1/2" fuel line. I will post some pictures as I go along. I am using the stock fuel filter but am also installing a remote fuel filter(Carquest 86353) and water seperator(86439). I have a short box so room is limited under the truck and I am looking at installing the filters and then the fuel pump. Other than when I change filters, possible having air in the system and having to bleed it out, does anyone know of any problem with doing it this way? I can put the fuel pump first, but it will take a little more engineering. Also one advantage I can see is that the fuel will be filtered before the pump, which may help keep the pump going for a longer time.

Guess that I am lucky that I am still young enough to be able to do it. Although at times it is frustrating, such as today. We went out to move some cows and calves, it did not go as planned. Calves went one way, cows went another way and we had no dogs to help. But most of the time it is very enjoyable.

I just cowboy on a ranch that is about 200,000 acres.

My brother brews his own bio diesel and I have made some also and run it in my 93 and 99. I did not see a noticable loss of power, but I did not haul heavy loads at the time. I currently run b-5 in my 99 and still see around 22 mpg empty, so I do not think that there is too much loss of power and it does seem to run quiter, I still use 2 stroke oil as well. I would like to start brewing bio out here but I am not sure where I would get the oil to process into bio-diesel.

No problem. Sometimes I miss thing and think what are they thinking, then go back and see what I missed the first time. I will try and get some photos of the parts that I will be using and how the install goes. Like I said, I might just use the kit in order to have the fuel heater.

I will still have filter and fuel water seperator, just a remote filtering kit, I will look into the kit to go from the factory filter to the VP, one more filter will not hurt anything. I will be losing the fuel heater if I bypass the factory filter housing, so that might be a good reason as I do live in an area that does get a little chilly at times.

I am glad to hear that. I will soon be able to upgrade the fuel system and not worry about having to change out the over flow line. I will keep the pressure below 20 psi, not sure if I will keep the factory fuel filter in line or just go to the VP, but I will not have to crawl around trying to replace the over flow line.

I will not worry about the return line, I will need to get a few parts and then I will be able to install the pump and bigger line.

I purchased a FPPR, some 1/2" fuel line and some fittings. I have a fuel filter and water seperator housing so I should be pretty close to installing it. The only two things left is a draw straw and how I will hook into the VP. My question is should I look into a larger return line or will the factory line give me enough flow to keep up with the new set-up?

When I bought my 99 it was an automatic, nothing wrong with it just would have liked a manual but got a steal on the truck. I did some research, looked around, most people said to sell the auto and just buy a manual. I found a NV4500 with flywheel, shifter, manual trans cross member, clutch and brake pedals and master and slave cylinders on ebay. The hardest part of the whole process was having to take apart the transfer case to change the input shaft from the 29 spline to the 31 spline. I replaced my PCM, I still need to get it reflashed with my trucks vin so my abs lite will quit coming on, but that is a minor issue, the truck still runs fine the way it is and it has hauled some heavy loads and not complained about it at all. It took me four days to do the swap, three of which I was working so only had the evening to work on the truck. I was able to find the cubby hole for in the dash and the floor cup holder/shift boot at the wrecking yard, just had to repaint them to match my trucks interior. I am very happy that I did the conversion, the auto is fine for most people, but I prefer a stick. As a bonus I gained about 6 mpg with the NV4500. The front driveline will have to be shortened or lengthened, I forget which, but the rear driveline I did not have to do anything to. The floor board also needs to be cut for the shifter to come through, but that just takes a little time and measuring to make sure you get it right. I would not hesitate to do it again, I think that it is just a more reliable drivetrain option.

The truck looks better after every mod/change. The blacked out rims with the chrome center caps really stand out. I also like the back-up lights, makes seeing things a lot easier. What kind of head lights do you have? And how do you like them? I am wanting to get some better headlights and they good looking. Also where did you get your 300,000 mile badge, I need to get me one of them! Keep up the great work on your truck!