cumminapart

installed my dual disc and upgraded hydraulics but the engagement is way at the top of the pedal swingsouthbend told me that the slave cylinder is pushing too far and i need to take it back off and cut about 1/2in off of the rod...has anyone else had to do this? kind of nervous i dont want to cut too muchits annoying and tough to get used to the clutch pedal having to come just about all the way out before i start moving

yea i should have done something about it a long time ago i guess i should get on that asap

i've still been putting off making a big line kit between my fuel filter and vp...and still have my electronic pressure sensor straight onto the vpit bounces around somewhat but still works (or seems to?) :banghead: think possibly that my stock line between the filter and vp is restricting the fuel enough so that even though im reading 15 psi its actually not getting enough fuel into the vp to really be safe?

man what a road.. that looks awesome out theredefinitely thinking that i've got some unnecessary obnoxious hissing going on from somewhere under the hood... at higher rpms i dont really notice itthe backed up exhaust doesn't seem to be as loud as yours either mikeso maybe im getting more hissing less braking but maybe tomorrow i'll have time to try and check it out a little bit------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------well i was just browsing into the PAC brake install thread and it sounds like mine is working to full potential but i still think i've got a bit of a leak somewhere making the excessive hissing noise

wow man sorry to hear... i cant imagine coming home and my truck just being gonei used to think about that when i kept my spare keys in my center console so that i could lock the door and leave it running..any idea how they got in? broken glass?

i guess it could be the noise im hearingi really have nothing to compare toso mike your brake doesn't make any kind of hissing or sucking sound at lower rpms?i am getting a decent enough effect out of using it but i guess its not really what i was expecting...under idle conditions if i engage it and run around to look the actuator is sucked in as far as it can go but yet there is the hissing soundto me if the actuator is sucked in completely then the exhaust brake should be fully functioning and the hissing sound whether it's normal or not should be having no effect on how well the brake is workingalso i believe the white wire going from the back of the cigarette lighter to the switch is solely there as a means of providing power to light up the switch to show that the switch is in the ON position (my original thought was that this is where the solenoid got its power from)

yep i just picked myself up a push pull switch from the local hardware store for 16 buckswas going to run the switch knob from geno's which would look real nice but decided against it because 50 bucks isnt worth it to serve the same purpose.. i'll be running the normal system wiring except rather than routing the red wire to the ecm i'll route it through my switch on the shifter and then to the battery...when i start the truck i'll keep the rocker switch on and then use the shifter switch as neededfor some reason the truck seems to be running alot smoother now.. it seems highly doubtful that the brake would have been sticking in a partially closed position though probably just in my headalso is it supposed to make a sucking sound or am i leaking my vacuum when it engagesim thinking its normal.. mostly i hear this if i engage it at a lower rpm

aah finally some results!!:ahhh:i took out the jb 80 because i was going to take out the bolts on the brake and have a look at it... ended up spraying it up and the little arm that the actuator connects to...then got this bright idea to try move that by hand... nothingso i took a hammer and a long piece of rod and carefully tapped it (straight as to not bend anything and lightly)it broke free and moved in but stayed there well i worked it back and forth a bit then fired up the truckstraight connected the solenoid to my battery and was quite surprised to see the thing actually suck in and start working !!! now i just gotta wire up some sort of system :hyper:however there still was an electrical problem....

ah good to know... i'll have to start checkin it out tomorrow as far as the vacuum goesmaybe its possible the exhaust brake its self has seized up from not moving for an extended period of time?it hasn't worked for at least 2 yrs... yes i know. why fix it now? because its there and it should work and my pads and rotors could last alot longer

UPDATEim thinking maybe my solenoid is shot because though it clicks... thats all it ismaybe it should be louder?with the engine running and unplugging solenoid to go straight to the battery with two lead wires the exhaust brake doesnt kick in... the solenoid just clicksunless i just screwed it up by going straight to the battery :banghead:or maybe im dealing with a vacuum issue also?

well.... i tested my solenoid by straight connecting it to the battery.... it worksby completing ground bypassing the ecm it still didnt work.... i guess i didnt try touching the wire to the positive side of the battery but i decided why not just simply run my own wires straight to the solenoid and to the battery with a switch in between the power or ground side to complete the circuitfor added safety i could have a switch on both wires in order to not accidently hit the switch while cruising down the highway or something (cant imagine it being to good on things to hit the exhaust brake under throttle)

ok i was kind of figuring that the 0122 came from the testing and will go away the check engine light was no longer on when i started up to drive back home nowafter getting back home both codes still there.. im assuming the 0122 will go away once the computer sees that everything is fine again a few timesthe 1693 code i believe came from me unplugging the wires that were left over from my old stock lift pumpwhile chasing wires last night i noticed them and decided to get them out of the waywhat i was thinking i might do is run the shift knob from geno's that has the switch built into it.. then i could run my wire into that and to ground rather than to ecmfirst i'll test to make sure that grounding the red wire actually makes the brake workalso.. with running my ground through a switch (so i would actually have two switches in order to activate the exhaust brake) could i just incorporate both the power and the ground into a double pole switch of course the downside to a system like this is that the brake wouldn't automatically disengage when i pressed the fuel pedal

well this morning my check engine light came on so i cycled the key and came up with the P0122 and P01693 i know the 0122 code has to do with the TPS which would make sense as i was bugging moparman last night trying to trouble shoot my exhaust brake not working and started digging into the APPSi guess i could start by clearing the code and seeing if it comes back..correct? it may have thrown it when i was digging in the apps? or maybe i screwed something upalso.. mopar i forgot to mention maybe like 8 months ago i did have a dead pedal issue but i think it was a bad connection on my edge plug where it ties into the map sensor with the Y.this same time is also when it first started beeping the crazy speed warnings and it did it ALOT at that time i thought the edge was completely screwed up and i disconnected it to send it back and then decided to plug it back in to give it one more try and the dead pedal was gone...has worked ever since except once in awhile it yells at me that im doing 100+ mph when im doing like 30 maybe its not my edge though.... maybe its my ecm since the exhaust brake didnt work before the edge was put in and the wires all work properly except the red on going into the ecm

usually this problem is experienced when trying to use the cruise control with the juice (or probably other power modules too) set on higher power levels mine can do it really bad sometimes and i've read other posts around concerning the issuethe cruise control issue is just the edge fueling too hard..boost rising..speed overshooting the cruise setting and rather than easing back into the throttle it hammers onto it when the speed comes back down and does it over and overthe cruise control doesn't compensate for the added fueling of the box and with larger injectors it'll make it even worsehowever your issue is that its surging while you hold the pedal to the floor? almost as if you were flooring it and letting off repeatedly?

have you checked the classifieds on cumminsforum for any used boxes?? i know its spendy for a new juice but depending on how much youre willing to spend it may be worth checking into

a private pilot is required to know the systems of his (specifically that one)aircraft in order to diagnose failures in flight... (it could save his life)obviously the consequences of not knowing your vehicle aren't equal since you can simply pull over..this is why you get the people who buy a souped up diesel that cant get over that it blows a bunch of black $hit all over.. i'll take the pride of puttin on every part myself and learning in the processand i'll take the pride in knowing that black $hit is coming from the work i did and it still holds together....well i hope:pray:knowing your systems can save alot of money and time... this website and moparman have definitely made that possible for me

yea i used to have trouble staying even just at the speed limit but now that im driving a considerable amount every single day its not so hard to just sit back and relax watching the traffic flow byeven tried out going 60mph behind a semi for quite awhilefueled up again and got my 16.5mpg one of the days i got a heavy foot on that tank but it still kept my mileage up by driving slowermy last two tanks showed 16.5mpg and thats the best ive ever calculatedfrom the sounds of it i really cant expect more than 19 with my 4.10 though

lol... well im not going to go that farim already below the speed limit for normal traffic by 5mph at 65 and above michigans commercial truck limit by 5 (dont ask me why they do that because its rediculous)maybe id find a semi and draft at 60-65 depending on his speed but im talking about driving on a freeway not the regular 2 lane highway otherwise yes i'd go 55-60 rather than 65-70im going to see what this weeks fuel tank brings me and if its not more than 2 mpg i'll try drafting semis next week lol:neutral:

when i was home for the holidays back in minnesota i was glad that i had the amsoil 5w30 for thanksgiving morning when i went outside and it was -10 and my truck wasn't plugged in but i had to get goingit started easily... cycled key twice then gaver the juice and it fired up with a cloud of white smoke and i sat out there kinda running 15w40 synthetc amsoil now and probably will keep with that since the first owner ran this amsoil for the first 110,000 so i'll just keep it on what was in it

so i was doing some thinking today on my way home since i started driving 65 rather than 70if i can gain 2mpg by doing 65 rather than 70 mph i will save (fuel at $4/gal) 3 cents a milei will use my situation.. Drive: 70 miles/day 20 days/month 1400 miles/month x .03 cents = $42now saving $42 a month doesn't seem like much but lets look at how much more time it takes for me to drive 70 miles a day at 65mph vs 70mph60min/70 = .857143 minutes/mile x 70 miles = 60 minutes of driving per day60min/65 = .923077 minutes/mile x 70 miles = 64.6 minutes a dayso if i save myself 5 minutes round trip thats 2.5 minutes per one way so really unnoticeable as far as fuel savings by driving slower and time savings by driving faster (5 minutes versus $2)heres where it gets interesting... if i look at that as dollars an hour i can take (2x12)/(5x12) = $24/60min:smart:so by driving 65 miles an hour rather than 70 if i look at it as time spent for the money saved im making 24 dollars an hour just for driving 5 mph slower...what a deal!also..im in the process of checking my exact mileage gains but say i get 4mpg more then everything doubles+2mpg = $24/hr+3mpg = $36/hr+4mpg = $48/hrnow as fuel prices go up... so does your money making!!:cookoo:i always like to look at the positive side of things:thumb1:

lol i think it very well could have been the juice acting up... or possibly one of your connections with it.you could unplug and replug where it Y's in between the ecm and map sensor. just to make sure that both of those are clicked in and locked

i wonder if it would be your juice?mine was having an issue quite awhile back where it would start alerting me of my speed saying ridiculous speeds jumping around when i was clearly going like 30mphonce in awhile it still willalso i reset my record rpms on it and two seconds later it set a new one of 3,300 rpms when for one..i hadn't gone over 2,000 and second i never put them into the redso possibly the edge is just finicky

well..... adjusted my valve lash today and they were pretty far out there.. thought for sure it was gonna cure itnope.. however it does accelerate soo much smoother nowstill have the noise but im really not going to worry about it.. probably an exhaust leak but i just can't pinpoint where it is ive checked all over the manifold several times but either way... it'll be alright for now it'll show itself eventually for now this ol cummins keeps ona tickin

unfortunately no it didnt fix the ticki didnt have time to check my valve lash however (yea i know it was all right there in front of me) and i'll be doing that by the end of this week as it warms up outside againi really think that has got to be the issue

i've still got some fuel line hanging around maybe i'll see if i can throw something together or i'll just buy one of the kits but i could probably do it cheaper myself