cumminapart

i haven't done a whole lot of testing yet but.... it may have had something to do with my torn connector tube oringi was talking to you today about it while i was doing the injector swap ended up having to drive 45 minutes to cummins this afternoon for 6 orings.... but i think it may have fixed my hard start issue alsoanyways... truck started up pretty easily. had my buddy watching the lines and tightening as he saw fuel didnt have one tightened hardly and it completely came back off on my test drive so it made a mess then but after that i havent seen any leaks so farmy fuel pressure is seeming alot more steady now but i'll check tomorrow how much of a drop i can getwould a connector tube o ring effect pressure drop much?or would it be because i dont have the big line kit between the filter and vp

yea quite low but still just a little better than the stock lp pressure bigfoot was seeingmy raptor holds its up there at 18 now and i have the edge set to beep at me when it sees 10.. haven't heard it yet.. it'll usually drop down to 14 and i've seen 12 at the lowest

before i put in the raptor i was holding 10psi at idle... if i remember correctly i was only seeing it drop to about 5 at most with wot

well i drove the truck for about a year before i put in the raptor 150.... but because of shipping the edge came sooner and my pressure was reading a steady 10 with the in tank pump once replacing (which turned into a nightmare not realizing my problem was that my raptor was trying to pull through the in tank pump) i can hold my pressure up above 14psiim curious now because the first and only owner before me claimed to have complete records but once i actually went to buy the truck i didnt really worry about it....maybe i can still get themactually i shall try.. lol .. but since he sold it about 2 yrs ago he may have gotten rid of them.. i might at least look up the vin # because if all his service records were under warranty they should be under any vin records

my truck shouldn't have had an in tank fuel pump hey?what im asking is what me as second owner putting in the raptor 150 and finding stock in the tank could mean..1. vp44 has been starved?2.was there any special order in '01 that would make this possible stock3.he replaced with another stock lp in the tank (wasn't there a recall?)

so according to that it says pop off pressure of 310bar but the injectors im getting are supposedly set at 300 bar (a guy on CF was selling them. he said he got them in as a core and his injector builder who isn't a CF member went through them and set them up right. the ad said 7x9(100hp ish) injectors set to 300bar) for the 200 dollar price i guess i figured i would jump on it. should i be kicking myself? i thought that stock injector pop off pressure was 280bar so i thought 300 bar would be good and just a side question which i might be able to find somewhere else but does the pop pressure affect the timing because it seems like with a higher pressure the injector spray would happen a slight bit later when the higher pressure has been reached --- Update to the previous post... on cummins forum one guy told me that its a diesel and its all in the territory don't fix it if its not broke...if the new injectors dont fix it just dont worry about it. another agreed with his response saying..my truck shakes rattles and it rolls my take is that when something aint right it aint right regardless of what territory I'm treading on. when the shakes and rattles are more and the rolling is less i think something probably needs attention i know noises are almost impossible to diagnose over the phone or over the internet but if anyone else has any input its greatly appreciated but i think moparman pretty much covered anything i can keep an eye on while im gettin into it (another thing i've noticed is when its warmer out..above freezing.. the noise is more solid but the acceleration is smooth like it should be)

i have some injectors on the way right now that are set at 300bar so the injectors should be all seti'll make sure to get a pressure gauge but how exactly do i go through this process of checking the compression?and would you think maybe if the valve lash was getting out of adjustment that would have been the first more subtle tick sound i was hearing and then once i put the edge in and the adjustment got further out it could have bent a pushrod creating the louder definitely having issues sound?im just trying to get any foresight on the issue before i actually start jumping into it because i probably wont have a computer.... but then again you might be getting a call sometime next week when im in mid process lol

i just started a new thread on my problem that sounds like it started out where yours is at...did u end up fixing it with the valve adjustment? i started to a few weeks ago but got too annoyed after i spent half hour with no success taking the cover off.

I've got a sound that started over a year ago from inside the dash.(truck was still completely stock and 115k) At first I thought it was just something in the door pocket or glove box rattling.. it also was so faint i thought I might be hearing things...and I would only hear it at around 2000 rpms if I pressed the pedal (some days I wouldnt hear it though and then it'd come back confirming I hadnt been hearing things)It eventually got louder and louder til now it actually is really annoying but still its worse sometimes and sometimes I swear its gone(i thought it was gone all winter but it came back as it started warming up out)I've checked and fixed a leak from my turbo/downpipe connection but that didnt fix it.I'm highly doubting it to be the exhaust manifold and can't feel any exhaust escaping.The best idea I can come up with is my edge is effed and its being finicky with the timing... would that make any sense even though i did hear a slight noise barely before i had the edge it may not have been the same noise cuz it can be pretty loud now?I have some injectors on the way so i'm going to do a valve adjustment when i do the swap to see if that or the injectors help.. Not gaining oilSo if anyone could give me any input on this issue I'd appreciate it... anything I should look for on the valves while there?Oh yea, and it only does it under load.. not idling or free revvingfor awhile i thought maybe carbon build up?I've spent the last year searching the web now and then and have found many things that sounded similar but nothing quite the same..when it first started getting louder itd only be between 1500-2000 rpms... its not near as noticeable after 2000 rpms

yea its too bad most people won't stop to help a stranger out.. they never know when they'll be the one needing it and they'd sure not turn down getting some help then

looks like you need a snowmobile.. those mountains would be a blastand it did look a bit funny watching the 4wheeler cruise around in fast forward:hyper:

so could a valve adjustment help this? it has 130k on it and i have read around on the internet of people doing a valve adjustment between 125k and 150kas for warming it up... a 14 hour trip when i went home for thanksgiving should have warmed it up enough . i'd think but the noise got worse and quieted down somewhat throughout the whole trip. maybe as conditions in the atmosphere changed?i do realize the cummins isn't a quiet engine but something just isnt quite right

what size tires are you running. and are you compensating for that in your mileage calculations.even empty i calculate an average of 15 mpg on and off freeways and in town. that is without compensating for tires.but with my speedometer reading 65 when my actual speed is 60 I am running an actual 16.25 mpg when i calculate 15mpg going off of the odometer/gallons usedits not a huge difference but its something and the larger off stock size you are the more your calculation is going to be off.. i too am disappointed however with my mileage.. without a trailer my mpg's should be at least 18

so if your gonna load the hell out of it with the exhaust brake and 3 cyl, then what difference is driving it.. best point made... but it depends on ones reason for prewarmingi currently use an ice scraper jammed on the pedal and adjust the seat forward just to bump it up a little.. but as moparman pointed out egts actually really only go up by 50 if i set it at 1100 which i never even thought about but thats not changing really anything so i probably will just set that method aside and fix my exhaust brake... besides the neighbors would probably appreciate not to hear me messing with my scraper trying to get it adjusted right in the morning:mad:

i might be a little late on this but recently had the p0237 code... cycling the key got me the 1963 code but autozone pulled the 0237. was just about to send my edge juice back in... but then i removed the module.. drove awhile with no change. (extreme dead pedal)just before sending it in i disconnected everything..... the data link, map sensor, power supply that connects into under hood fuse box and the turbo connection that taps into the in cab fuse box.then drove a bit like this and nothing happened... plugged in everything and it worked just fine so i never had to send anything back to edgethe 0216 code changes things for you but for anyone else maybe its a bad connection in the data link or map sensor connections... the data link does take a little to fully click together it seems

first off.. how much fuel is in your tank. and no im not thinking that you ran it dry