Thunder2001

I just got my rebuilt ecm from Auto Computer Exchange and after reading bad reviews about every other company, including Them, I decided to take a chance. My experience with them was good, and I got a good Ecm back that was properly flashed for my truck. My problem is that I don't think my Ecm was bad to begin with, my truck still has the original problem.

There is a ground connection under the drivers side battery box. It has a bunch of ground lugs on it and seems to be a common trouble spot.

Still runs the same. This weekend I am going to go thru all of the grounds again to double check. I will also look at the APPS wires to make sure of no shorts and good continuity.

I am running out of parts to need swapping. I have replaced almost everything on it. The funny thing is is that it will probably be something simple. Just haven't had that a-ha moment yet.

Before all of this started I had a problem with the lights and the blower motor not working properly and it turned out to be a super corroded ground lug under the drivers side battery. I replaced the connections with new and it was fixed. I also had the alternator output wire rubbed through end have an intermittent short to ground on the alternator housing. I also repaired the wire and rerouted it further away from the housing. I replaced the alternator just in case. Could any of this have affected my PCM ? If so, could that contribute to my problem? Quite honestly I do not want to throw another part at it unless I have to. I will try playing with the ABS and VSS asap and report back.

Would the can bus data come from the ECM ? If so this is a fresh ecm and it is doing the same thing the last ecm did. Also would the PCM have anything to do with this? The PCM is one of the only original parts left on it. one more thing is that my harmonic balancer looks bad but I didn't think that it could cause this problem. Sorry about my poor typing skills, I am learning as I go.

The APPS is brand new and I did do the proper reset on it. Last time I checked, the tps numbers seemed to be moving smoothly along with pedal movement. Seems slow on the video because I think the scan gauge might have a slight delay when throttle is pushed.

Update 2/24/2017. Here is the video I said I was going to post. Let me know your thoughts.

Make sure your TV cable is adjusted properly. I had a problem with mine being sticky from corrosion. Lubed the cable till free and re adjusted and fixed my late lockup problem.

A slide hammer would get em out for sure. At least it would not put a sideways force on them. And just go easy with it.

I feel your pain on this problem, my truck is giving me the same type of trouble,only worse. I really think the pump hot wire test is only good for showing mechanical soundness at idle. With the ecm unhooked, you can't throttle up the motor to check for any type of misfire. What if there is some type of intermittent signal going to your VP 44 when it is hooked up. There is no way to test for this as far as I know. I was even thinking about making a connector to go between the VP connector an the VP to check for corresponding voltage changes in any of those connections.

Yes you are right about the pump, so I have made a relay and harness and am going to see if it helps. I am just waiting on my Big Line Kit and proper fuel pressure gauge to come from Vulcan. I just want to eliminate any possible problem before I run it again. I will be very disappointed if after all this, that it ends up being another faulty VP. I will report back as soon as I run it again. Well I have installed the Vulcan big line kit and the relay for the lift pump. I also installed a mechanical fuel pressure gauge. These changes made no difference in how it runs. I will post another video sometime today just to show you guys. The only thing left is maybe the waste gate is stuck open? Would that cause a stumble under load? I don't even want to drive it like this for fear of not making it back. Just an example of what happens, If I try to create a driving load by doing a small brake torque, it will just stumble till it dies. Also I did check for AC voltage and had a maximum of .012 volts. Running out of ideas and thinking maybe a second bad VP 44. Doug from BlueChip said sometimes the electrical parts are like light bulbs and they are bad out of the box. Maybe both these light bulbs came from the same box?

Yes you are right about the pump, so I have made a relay and harness and am going to see if it helps. I am just waiting on my Big Line Kit and proper fuel pressure gauge to come from Vulcan. I just want to eliminate any possible problem before I run it again. I will be very disappointed if after all this, that it ends up being another faulty VP. I will report back as soon as I run it again.

Thank you. I am gonna make one up asap.

Is the relay in your drawing a separate relay, or are those the numbers from the Relay box under the hood? I also have a pump made for stock location and Air Dog says to just plug and play. Maybe I will change it .