Waydin_Stewart
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Everything posted by Waydin_Stewart
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Wow I could could not find button. Thank you! Anyways, I will send off my quadzilla to have v2 software added, My airdog drops from 22/23 psi at idle to 9/10 psi at WOT. I talked to pureflow on Instagram and he said I can have mine upgrade to a 165-4g pump for $50 plus shipping so let’s just say $100. I am going to order a sump kit but I don’t have the heart to cut into my tank. I don’t like cutting holes in anything haha. That will hopefully solve pressure issues! If it does then I can move onto making quadzilka smokeless. After that I’ll fix timing cover, and Tappet cover leaks. Silicone or gasket for timing cover? If the funds are available I’ll be getting a billet tappet cover. I haven’t figured out from who yet. I like the price of CC it idk if it’ll work on a vp44. -
It’s a brand new valair 500hp clutch. That’s the kicker. I didn’t realize how much power my truck would have. I got a buddy with a Duramax with around 450-500 that is pretty quick and he rode in it and said if my truck wouldn’t slip I would beat him. And his is automatic? How do I edit my signature? I cannot for the life of me figure it out.
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Well I had the smarty on level 9 with the quadzilka unhooked at it pulled me in the sest pretty good. Then I set ecm to stock, put quadzilla on level 5. It sucked me in the seat about the same. I can’t use level 8/9/10 as the clutch just slips as soon as the turbo spoils. Ide day the quadzilka is stronger but not by much. I don’t know how to change my signature or I wouldn’t update it to have the 7x.011 sac injectors
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OH okay that makes sense. So I’m seeing more down low cause i get 100 throttle at 15% stacking them. Okay that makes sense. So I can use the smarty for factory high idle, flash ecm, adjust tire size. So it’s not completely useless. I need to upgrade my lift pump, get a sump, and wire in new obd port as mine is wore out from probing it with my voltmeter. My buddy has an endge comp without the hot u lock. His truck was fast when he put he edge on it back in 2008/2009. He said it just gradually got slower and slower. Until it was just a little bit of black and wouldn’t get out of its own way. So I put my smarty on it and the truck was a completely different animal. What could cause this?
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I don’t get the snap from the quadzilka even on level 10 or a custom tune with the fuel stretch turned all the way up. Soooo I guess my truck isn’t gunna blow up? Or my quadzilka is garbage? Or the smarty is more powerful than 65hp? So I spent $700 extra. I guess what they say isn’t true about if you out a part on your brain just makes you think it didn’t something. I’ll figure out which one i want more and sell the other one. Or keep them both and drive it till it blows. I turned off the Hugh idle and my truck has never had a High idle. Even after the smarty install it still doesn’t have a High idle.
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I figured out the problem. It was the iod fise. My obd port need some to be replaced now from poking me or so many times with my voltmeter. The abs function on the smarty doesn’t work but I’m sure it’s a fuse or a wire. Thanks for everyone who tried to help. The smarty adds so much down low responsiveness. But it is pretty Smokey now.
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Still no luck on tracking down the problem. Anyone have any idea where to start? at the ecm, pcm, obs port, a fuse?
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My starter cable ended up being 2/0 and everything else was 4 and 1/0 gauge. I replaced all the terminals except the passenger negative which is still a good tight clean connection. I clean all the terminals, dielectric grease on posts and terminals inside and out, alternator went out 3 days ago and after oreileys machine testing good and it leaving me stranded once again they warrantied it and bam my gauge reads 14 now instead of 12 like it did for a year. I haven’t tested the smarty since replacing the alternator and terminals. I will test it today and see if i still have a wiring issue or my batteries were just too dead to let the smarty work.
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So the positive lead going down to the starter isn't 2/0 gauge wire? It's is just 0 gauge or maybe 2 gauge? I just don't want to buy a cable lug too big or too small.
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so that picture you just sent me isnt your terminal? sell either way i ordered one like it earlier. I just need to know how big the power cable going to the starter is to order one of those lugs for it. i read online it is 2/0?
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I just ordered one identical to yours just now. What size is the main power wire on that terminal? I found a crimp connector that fits the small wire going into the fuse box. is it 2/0?
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I have one of those terminals and the cables dont look to be very coroded inside the insulation. The terminal itself is wore out form being taken on and off so many times. I have my airdog and quadzilla terminals hooked to that battery terminals so I will have to add those on there too. Nowhere around here sells those lugs they only sell ring terminals for like $3 a pop
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Well my truck left me stranded at college for a few minutes and upon inspection it turned out to be my driver side positive cable was loose. There was a small puddle if you will below the cable end and it was aluminum i believe from the better post. So now im trying t o figure out a good way to replace that battery cable end with a new one. maybe that is my problem? one can only hope!
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Anyone have any ideas?
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so do i follow the steps you provided still? using the pins you provided that are connected? Okay 14 to 29 reads 00.3 on 200 ohm setting and 7 to 27 reads 00.3 on 200 ohm setting. I will double check to confirm readings. Double checked readings and it is confirmed 00.3 on both reads. Checked voltage with key off and they both read 0 volts. So my readings before were inaccurate as I was using the wrong pins on c3 connector...My c3 connector has pins labeled by numbers but the form/stamp/mold put the numbers slightly off center so I was reading pin 30 and pin 28 instead of 29 and 27. Pin 7 to 38 reads 00.4 on 200 ohm setting aswell.
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So how do I diagnose if it it the pin or the wire or my pcm c3 hconnector? pin 7 to pin 38 is 00.4 on 200 ohm setting. So the connection issue is between the pin 14 on obd port and pin 27or is it 29) on c3 connector Pin 14 to pin 27/29 reads no ohms or voltage. On the chart it shows 29 sci recieve on pcm for diesel. so pin 14 to pin 29 has a short or broken wire somewhere along the path? Okay on the driver side of the firewall there is 3 connectors. All 3 appear to merge the main harness to the pcm. Is this correct? If this is what connects the pcm to the obd port which connector of the 3 would have the c3 pin 29 wire connected to it? I could probe there and tst for current If no current then I will try to get a new wiring harness from the donor truck to replace. I have a white with purple stripe in the number 14 pin on my DLC/OBD port? It says it is supposed to be white and pin. Under the hood I located a white and pink wire.
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If I probe pin 7 on DLC/OBD and pin 27 on c3 connector I get between 36.9 and 38.1 on 200k. If I use lower ohm reading it just says 1. Im even more confused now. So are the steps you provided for diesel or gas? I get no voltage or ohm reading going from pin 7 on DLC/OBD to pin 36 on ECU connector.
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Oh okay so I test pin 14 on obd to pin 29 on c3 pcm and I test pin 7 to pin 36 on ecm?
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So you recommend running a wire from pin 7 of the obd port to pin 29 of the c3 connector to bypass the wire in the bundle? If it happens to be the pin in the obd port how do I go about repairing it? Swapping out the port?
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That means ive been testing all the ohms wrong them i guess. well back to square one or whatever step i need to go back too. How do i go about finding the short? I feel bad as to how misinformed and uneducated i am at wiring.
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what is an open?
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Okay so I removed the dlc from the bracket. All the wires on the back seem to be fine visually. I dont see any nicks or scuffs or open insulation on any of them. What is this powertrain verification it keeps referring too? I got to step 8 and it reads 24.1 on 200k ohm setting and now im super confused. What is an open? and why would my recieve wire be messed up if it was my transmit wire that wouldnt read any voltage?
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How do I remove the OBDII plug from the bracket in my truck so I can inspect the wires on the back. Okay Im gunna try to decipher what all that is saying haha. So I have a bad pcm now? The truck will run and drive fine. Or atleast I believe so haha. If you focus on the exhaust sound it will miss at random very very very slightly in the exhaust note but that could be from injectors or just how the 5" exhaust makes it sound. a PCM isnt that expensive but I really didnt want to spend 3-400 on one. All the other pins i tested to pins 4 and 5 tested with some kind of voltage except pin 7. So Either the wire is diead at the dlc connector or the wire is busted or my pcm is friend?
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This picture says 6 and 7 are for sci? and i believe it shows pin 5 as ground? If i probe pins 4 and 7 it shows 0 with probes oriented both ways If i Probe pins 4 and 5 it shows .02 on my volt meter. So does that mean my pin 7 is dead? Pin 4 black lead and pin 6 red lead reads -1.14 Pin 4 red and pin 6 black reads 1.14. So my pin 7 is dead on the port? Pin 5 red and pin 7 black reads 0 Pin 4 red and pin 16 black reads 13.19 and is slowly going down im guessing to 12v since I just had the truck on. I have my red and black wires bacwards i think haha. it says com in black and I have the red wire in it and it says (OHM signal)VMA*F
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Okay simple is key for me haha sorry. Very dumb question but I set my voltmeter to 12v setting correct?