portlandareae28

looks to be 3/8 x 16tpi, I will grab some at home depot and see if they fit, than maybe just get a pump rebuild kit for the o-rings.

seems something like this is what is supposed to be in there. the description of what these fit is very vague. https://www.jegs.com/i/OER/691/1253573/10002/-1?&mrkgcl=1239&mrkgadid=3328193743&adpos=1o4&creative=330726016730&device=c&matchtype=&network=g&jegspromo=nonbrand&gclid=Cj0KCQjwpPHoBRC3ARIsALfx-_Llytekw-K7g5RSNdWcxq4UfOK3sI_lFepLzMRh8Y14-Gm8XYGNf6YaAv2pEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

Any thoughts on how to track down what the spec is on those bolts?

Does the hole to the left of the "M" on the sticker with the freen plug in it need to be plugged? My reservoir has nothing there. Nothing seems to come out under pressure (Truck running turning wheels back and forth) but once shut off and parked on an incline nose in, it seems to want to leak (not saying this is the leak point, but I haven't figured out where the leak is yet). If it should be plugged, is it just a plastic plug? or maybe threaded could take a bolt and o-ring?

I can see the fluid running down the track bar to the area where it is dripping, it has to be a return line or something.... Its driving me crazy though!!

so I cleaned it all up last night, under there for 20-30 minutes. Wiped it all down, everything dry. set the cold level perfectly on the dipstick line. have my wife come out, fire up the truck, crank the wheel back and forth 5-10-15 times and nothing, I don't see anything leaking anywhere.. SWEEEET!!! I park it for the night, go out this morning to drive it to work, and there is the small puddle again under the passenger side shock mount (running down the track bar to the passenger side). So it seems like it is maybe running back down from somewhere after shutting it down? Any ideas would be greatly appreciated..

What are you in the market for?

Thank you, I ordered just the clamps because I stripped one out last weekend, couldn't get passed my OCD.. I did find some on www.intakehoses.com that are the correct length and the 3 5/8" to 3" reducers for the bottom too.. They are a little more money than siliconintakes.com but not as much as the other brands I have seen. I will report back on the quality of the siliconeintakes.com clamps as they are literally $3 +/- each..

I figured it out... Still interested in opinions. Anyone running siliconeintakes.com hose? I see posts in other forums that guys like them, but there 3" hump hose is only 3" long and our stock hump hoses are 4.5" long. I would probably be comfortable losing 1/2" or less. But 1-1/2" seems like a fair amount to compensate for... Thoughts??

So upon putting things back together on my truck after the vacuum pump rebuild, I think it is time for new IC boots and clamps.. I don't have the truck here today and am wanting to look at all my options. Does anyone know the sizes of the boots and clamps? Also if you have replaced yours and like or don't like anything about what you replaced with, please share that too.. Thank you

so its all back together (remember this project was really about rebuilding the vacuum pump, and I had a wet/dripping hydroboost line from the hydroboost to the steering box) So looks like there is some success as I am not seeing any oil dripping, YAY!! BUT, last night I went out to water the plants and I have a small puddle under the PASSENGER side. I tracked it backward a little and it is running down the track bar. The track bar sits RIGHT under the ps reservoir. I climbed up in there and all of the lines coming out of the rear of the ps reservoir seem dry and clean. I did find that I think my son (have to teach our youth to be mechanical) filled to the HOT line and not the COLD line when we did the final fill on it the other night. Is it possible that it is boiling over (if ya will) when being driven? Haggar, thank you for the power steering cooler thoughts.. I will give it some thought.

Definitely wouldn’t want to hold it for too long. Steering felt great until I was pulling it out of the car wash bay. Upon start up, no power steering like normal. Think I may try clean that little screen today.

All back together, seems to be normal. Power steering still sucks (this was not a power steering project so I didn’t expect a miracle). Should the hydra boost lines get hot (metal fittings)?

yeah, the vacuum seems to be working fine for HVAC, but near the firewall one of the connections is capped (hmmm.. why would dodge put that there to just cap it I ask myself) :-)

there is what appears to be a 90* vacuum or some other fitting in the backside of the drivers side front fender. My windshield washer doesn't work maybe this is why, but my 4x4 doesn't engage either, maybe this is why. Thank you!!

So I pulled the power steering pump with the vacuum pump. I needed to replace a hydraboost to steering box line anyway and I wanted to get a good cleaning in there. When reinstalling the pump to hydraboost line felt a little strange going in but seemed to smooth out and tighten down. Fill it with fluid, wheel back and forth a few times, top off, repeat. Finally feel like it's time to start it. Fire it up and it is just spraying fluid out of the reservoir around that fitting (pump to hydraboost). I ordered a new hose for that run (pump to hydraboost). Will be in late today. Any wisdom/thoughts to share on this?

Thank you, I will set the reminder for 24 months.

BMW says (life long) that about the trans fluid in my 335i too, but boy did it change for the better when I did a fluid change on it.... Planned obsolescence my friends.. I was reading about a W124 Mercedes diesel taxi cab the other night that the engine went its first 1,000,000 miles on fluid and filter changes. https://allaboutdieselz.blogspot.com/2016/04/34-million-km-mercedes-benz-w124.html

Is there degradation in ps fluid? Or does it retain moisture? If I make it easy to flush and swap I will definitely do it more to keep everything alive that much longer.

stop trying to instill wisdom and logic into my craziness.. :-) I won't drive 30,000 miles in 6-7 years! HAHAHAHHAHA So I feel like I should really make the most out of this flush since I may never do it again on this truck

https://www.amazon.com/Moeller-Fuel-Three-Way-Valve-Brass/dp/B000MTB7QA maybe something like this, could be mounted up top somewhere with a permanent flush line down below. Everything mounted, slide the drip pan under the fitted "flush" line, switch valve to flush, flush it out, back to "normal flow" position and on your way.

So I am thinking since I am rebuilding the vacuum pump and am going to have the pump and everything out anyway, now is the time to add a filter into the mix if guys are happy they are running filtered systems. My thought is, if I am going to add the filter, why not set it up to be able to do the fluid flush every 30k much easier? I am thinking maybe a T and a valve or would I potentially need 2 valves? I am thinking I need to be able to stop the normal flow and divert it out to the drain pan while flushing new fluid in. Thoughts??

so I am pulling the STEERING BOX return line, but I am actually pulling it off of the PUMP RESERVOIR? than blocking the nipple that I pulled the line off of at the reservoir? Sorry I learn better visually than with all of this reading..

"Now cap the pump off so it holds fluid." I am not sure I am understanding what you are telling me here.

so when you say flush that is pulling the return line off and continuing to fill with new fluid until new fluid is coming out? Thank You Mike