portlandareae28

I figured getting the old one out was going to be harder than getting the new one in. Would we agree to this being called the "output shaft seal?"

Good Morning all, my transfer case has been leaking out the tail for too long and I need to attack it this weekend. Anything special I need to know, or special tools? Timken seal good enough for the job or is there something better? Thank you in advance for wisdom and experience. Brian

I changed it less than 5k miles ago. I need to do the vacuum pump rebuild, and yesterday the truck had fluid under it that wasn't oil so found a wet hydroboost line. Wet all the way at the top and obviously running and blowing all over the truck underneath. SO now I want to replace everything that NEEDS to be replaced. Truck has always had the intermittent or no power steering (at low rpm). Thinking I may put a ps pump in the truck while I am in there. I will look for and read through as many as the articles that pertain to this as possible. Is it worth spending the money on the "big" name pumps? (Borgeson, etc?) I am on 235 tires so no undue stress there. I will want to flush and confirm any and all debris is out of the box and hydro pump, hopefully the vacuum pump is healthy enough for the rebuild (truck has 350k on it). Will do a full underbody detail as it is a MESSSSSSS now with the hydro leaking too.... Open to all experience and wisdom before I dive in this weekend. Truck is parked until this is all done..

Drove the truck over 100miles today, hasn’t done any kind of distance in awhile. After about 30 miles, started to feel gravelly pedals, both brake and clutch felt weird, when pressed felt gravelly under my feet. Braking seemed a little weak too and power steering more intermittent than normal. At about mile 40 had to brake hard compared to normal braking and the truck pulled left... not sure where to start my chase, any thoughts?

I would love to learn more about the steering box conversion, is the Chevy box better? Also I am contemplating the reverse level so an image of the truck would be great, where did you get the blocks? did you go to a shorter u-bolt?

This thread is useless without pictures

I will look them up. Anything will be better than what I have

Are there less expensive options? I realize you get what you pay for, but.....

I am not confident or patient enough to build headlights like Mikes, can they be purchased already built? If not I am going to have to talk mike into building me a set while he is hanging out in Oregon. ?

We can carpool ?

I love and love to prepare true bbq, wondering who else here does the same? brisket burnt ends beef tenderloin ribs chicken etc my kids have no idea how good they have it, I make all of their lunch meat, no deli sodium, etc... DO SHARE!!! We we need to plan a moparman gathering, I will build a big smoker and cook all day if it makes everyone happy ?

It doesn't look too terribly hard to remove and replace window motors or hardware, and I would love to assume that dodge made just one door one way which would include all of the holes, etc... I may just wait and see if I can't find a power window truck being parted out to get the doors off of.. could switch to manual windows but door panels cost more than doors these days.

I have an 01 Dually club cab, bottoms of the doors are a little rotten. Found a 99 being parted out with perfect doors. #1 will they bolt up no issue? #2 they are manual windows and I have a power window truck. Can I move everything over to those doors?

I have a lot to learn in the LED world for this type of lighting. What makes one type of bulb better or worse? I know in lights like your headlight or a beam that you want to control its all in the lens and reflection, but in an instrument cluster I just don't know.

Has anyone changed their instrument cluster over to LED bulbs? If so, how would you say you like it? where did you get the bulbs? Is it worth getting the ebay kits, or better to source on my own?

Is anyone running the less expensive Ebay/amazon mirrors than the 1A auto ones with success? Seems like the 1A auto ones have great reviews, but for a similairly optioned mirror you can save $100ish dollars. Also is anyone running mirrors with the marker/turn signal lights? Opinions?

Not yet, this weekend hopefully. Have some honey do’s to complete.

Figured as long as I am going to clean the bottom side of the engine looking for a leak, we should talk about cleaning/detailing the top of the engine and the rest of the engine bay as well. engine on or engine off while hosing and degreasing? cover electronics/alternator or don’t cover? (If cover what are you using?) BHAF of course should be covered or removed, but stock airbox? is there a good dry enough finishing product worth putting on? thats a good start, I would love to hear what everyone uses and their method. Obviously pictures are always a bonus.

Hope to tear into this tomorrow, will report back

Think the felt will last?

Does anyone have or has dealt with the noisy door panels? When you happen to lean on them and when you pull on them? Any good solutions? I replaced all of the clips that hold the panel on which improved the situation a little, but still noisy.

Does anyone know if the trucks are pre wired for power mirrors? So I would just need the control and power mirrors to convert the truck? https://www.ebay.com/itm/DODGE-RAM-1500-2500-3500-DURANGO-TRUCK-POWER-MIRROR-CONTROL-SWITCH-KNOB-BK-94-02/113577448786?hash=item1a71be5552:g:kwQAAOSwoN5cQ7d2 will this one work?

Mike, do you put it on full strength or dilute?

anyidea where that R8 Joint connection is? says near Junction block? Is that drivers side under the hood behind the battery?

It appears to be good, though I have never seen it lit. Will put it on the meter when I get home. I should get 12 volts across the prongs that hold the bulb in the dome light with the light either switched on or door open, correct?