rogerash0

Would it be reasonable to backprobe a 5v circuit with a fluke while the truck is running to see the delta from 5v? I know atleast on computers you never have a perfect 5v on the 5v rail, its always +/- say 0.25v depending on the PSU.

Here's a pull from today thats a little shorter than the one in the data log. Very bottom gauge is the s475, showing a max of 23psi. Middle gauge is drive pressure for the 62mm SXE. I want to say it drops back down to 40-45psi once the WG opens, but i should get it on camera to know for sure. Top gauge is overall boost which is out of focus unfortunately, but looks to be 44psi +/-1psi. 20200729_093024.mp4

I have gone over the grounds on this truck like a slave. W-t ground mod helped the most. Ive also ditched the grid heater, my theory is it was responsible for all my dead alternators (including new bosch ones). I know it stays on until you eclipse 10, 15 or 20mph, I can't recall the exact speed. Also today I had 18-19psi fuel pressure, it dropped to 10psi at WOT, and I had 13.7v.

Hmm.. yeah I feel like it means I need to run an abnormally aggressive fuel table since I'm flowing 10psi when the computer/quad thinks I'm flowing 5psi. I'll probably have to go out at 11pm to get a good 4th gear pull. My lockup switch was making the solenoid tick when the truck was turned off so I got rid of it, becsuse eventually lockup went away and quit working (then magically came back several days lster), but maybe ill tap into the trans wire down at the trans instead of up at the PCM and i can find another switch to try.

Ok new oem cummins map sensor installed.. running me's tune he posted earlier in the thread. I noticed that when driving normally, when i see 10psi on the manual boost gauge the quad is reading 5, even with the new oem cummins MAP sensor. When its showing 18psi on the manual gauges, the quad will show 11. Eventually the digital boost gauge catches up, for example, on a WOT pull shown in the datalogs here, I see 44psi on the manual gauge (60psi of drive for a moment bc it spikes) and 41psi as a recorded max on the quad. I also loaded my extreme extreme tune but with min tps at 0 and max tps at 100 and it doesnt fall on its face (and seemingly glitch out) that way. I achieved the same total boost. I know my total boost would be higher with the .80ar housing on the 62mm SXE . Its got the .70ar housing on there. I suppose this data log doesnt show 4th gear locked, ill have to jump on the interstate again to get max boost in 4th gear locked. I betcha at 42psi/WOT that im not even in the pedal long enough for 3rd gear to lock up. Oh well .. its just not easy to do where I live right now due to traffic and cops. I'm on a peninsula... iQuad-2020-07-29-09.13.227996391603758438680.csv

I got the new sensor put in and will have the time to post another WOT run here on weds, thurs or Friday.

Hopefully the new sensor fixes the issue. If not I'm probably up **** creek with a paddle, eh? Lol. It definitely doesn't have a boost leak, thats according to Drew at d&j, too. If i can make 60psi on level 3 I might be in for a real treat. Otherwise maybe I need to swap the edge back on to see if its a weird box problem, but i know that's about a 1% chance probably.

No, if i did, I would have disclosed it. And, if i sold it with the tune on my truck it would be useless for the next guy. Plus I'd probably be getting max canbus. It leaves the speedo calibration in there after u remove the smarty. Something I didn't think of at the time. And quad and edges tuners have never fixed my speedo with their "wheel size calibration", no matter how many times I've tried.

I noticed on your tune that my drive to boost pressure is not so 1:1 after 20psi. It was spiking to 60psi drive at 40psi boost and then leveling back out like perhaps the wastegate is "lazy". Its a spring wastegate from stainless diesel Sub 25 psi and it looks to stay 1:1 tho. I didnt get a good look at the manual gauges at all on those pulls bc traffic was bad. Max boost on lvl 5 reported on the datalog was 40. Id like to do it again and record the manual gauges with chest mount go pro bc i bet the manual gauge would have showed 50-55psi.

Its mutual. Moving on, we got good data logs. I did floor it.. i had to take it on the interstate to hit OD. Otherwise max boost i made by reported 75mph (65 in reality) was 30psi. lvl 3 was pretty weak for a 600hp rwhp truck. lvl 5 is a lot stronger up top.. Interesting data, boost shows 4psi then 21psi next line down and its maxed canbus just about (200 shy?) At 21psi. I have two pulls, both interstate, both to a reported 95 and 97 mph. The higher MPH pull, 97 mph i think, was on lvl 3. Here: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1z7PMzpMqopx-XrfltnErZthtEMV5VCoS/view?usp=drivesdk The lower MPH pull, 95 mph i think, was on lvl5. Here: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1z82ULzarFKmrh5TnRwlLL5E5Usp1Zaxj/view?usp=drivesdk Remember my speedo reads probably 13-14mph fast at "95 mph". When the 35s go back on it will probably be just right. I forgot to pull the cal out before selling the smarty.

Na, you have me wrong if you think I'm doubting your the logs. I wouldn't hang around if I thought you or your data was bad. I will day my butt dyno was correct that timing lvl2 was faster, cleaner amd better than timing 4 or 5 on the Edge, we proved that on the firepunk dyno, and almost everyone would have said Im wrong about that. I also understand and appreciate smooth useable power and I understand the perception of hard hitting power. I ride dirt bikes a lot, often on slick hard pack surfaces where power delivery/throttle application and engine character are key. I like that you have logs and data to prove what your saying. Louder pipes or more smoke or a harder hitting tune dont really make me think **** is faster. I've wanted to use more TPS all along for years now because I want my trans to see more theottle input to help delay shifts, so that rpm stays up and smoke stays down. I fought stack shifting and bad shifting patterns for a long time and eventually narrowed it down to a TV bracket that needed bent back proper down at the trans.

Blue bar is canbus OF for over fuel. How is that actually calculated? I understand it's more light switchy, thats kinda common sense, but my from my angle if she will take the fuel and burn it, I want to give it everything she will take to reduce the amount of time it takes for maximum power. Thats for a max effort tune, atleast. Im general what im getting at is perhaps in a race (not that I race) you could shave 1sec or a half sec delay/ reaction time off by making it fuel harder/faster. Unless when u floor it the ecm really has no different reacting time to the fueling, you just have more resolution in the fueling from the pedal and the tenth of a sec difference from half throttle and max throttle when flooring it

Lol 50% tps and she's normally making max ponies. I havnt used 100% pedal in ages . It was already after 9pm and im in a cul-de-sac where everyone can hear the beast start. So I'll see about running it tmrw.

Dang man thats gonna be scary. Its late and it cooled off. I could go out now. Nee senslr gets here next Weds or Thurs. You want the data log off that pull?

I've ran the 35s for awhile and towed with them, so I know it loads it down a lot. I have them, so it is what it is. Me - I read what you said. I can do the WOT pull you asked for to 60mph probably. Whats the minimum fueling you want me to use? I don't want to die. Min fueling of 90% and max of 120% okay? With 1200us wiretap or no wire tap? I don't think I've ever floored it since I got the big injectors. Every time I went high high tps, I hit my tps max setting and it smokes and falls on its face like the original post was about. But ill set tps max for wiretap at 100% so hopefully that doesn't happen.

So it may be a thing that small compounds on a vp truck can blow thru a stock stall converter? New cummins Map Sensor shipped today. My truck probably makes 40psi at 50% tps at 3k rpm in 3rd gear, even today with fueling turned down to 125% max from 10 psi on up, tps min 0%, tps max 100%, min wire tap fueling at 7psi, min wire tap 0% and your timing. I have some like new toyo 35s that will add a lot more load and gearing. I could throw them on.

Bottom of third to top of fourth is a full pull in my books. I did a plethora of them on the highway with the 220hp injectors and weepy head gasket on the way to d&j. Thr back end stepped out once on a damp surface. Itll make 60psi if i do that pull but ill be going 80-90mph by the end of it. Once it goes into OD with the tc locked you feel the torque come on proper. I don't have a good place to do a high speed run like that around here. 20mph over the limit is reckless driving in VA, too. I could potentially get on the interstate when traffic is low and try it, but I'd still be speeding. My coolant to tranny heat exchanger is gone. To cool to trans I have the rad up front and a derale under the bed with the fan not turned on because I never break 160-180*F in daily driving. With the slightly lower than stock stall DPC converter from firepunk it would heat up a good bit more. With the 150rpm lower than stock stall, the .80ar housing and 220hp injectors the truck was like a drag truck. Smokey and then if I got on it hard enough to spin it to 2k rpm and above to clear the smoke I was rocketing. Thats what prompted me to goto a stock stall was to keep smoke down, same with the .70ar housing.

I just did a few pulls. At 2800rpm its making 35-38psi on the mechanical gauge. I'll bet you $20 at 2k rpm its making 10-12psi absolute minimum. I took your tune and turned wire tap mininum fueling to 0% like we talked about. I scaled back the fueling table bc it was driving real different besides more torque from more timing. It felt smooth and good with the higher timing, not jolty like it used to if took my foot out of the pedal quickly. Then again I wasn't doing a monster pull. More will be seen there in the future. He's the fueling table and you can see in the second pic that on a 35psi pull from 0 to 60mph with the throttle at 50% that my canbus was low at 1209. It was tricky to stay in it and get this screenshot . Fuel pressure was 19-20psi at idle this morning. It looks to me like I need to make my max fueling closer to 125% to use more tps input. On the old 220hp injectors I always ran a max of 130% bc i noticed it didn't fuel any harder or better if I set it higher than that.

I need to make a video of the 3 manual boost gauges I have just for grins.. but long story short, I have a hard time making over 40psi of boost if Im not in overdrive. It has to do with the stock stall TC, and my very small 235/70 or 75 r16 snow tires. When I put on my 35" toyo MT tires I suspect I will be able to build a lot more boost, much more easily. I think in the video I said I made a max boost on the mechanical gauge of 40 or 42psi. That's probably not right, but I want to say its 7-10psi higher than the datalog reflects. I'll get a new genuine Cummins map sensor off XDP for $74 and some change. That's the lowest price I see by far. If its not a genuine Cummins sensor I dont want it.

I understand what you're saying; that's the same verbiage, methodology, and recommendations you've been promoting on this site since I first arrived like 5-7 years ago. Which I agree with for the most part, but watch the video and listen to the truck, its hardly flooding with fuel. You can listen to the spool and tell by how it comes on that its smooth, plus there's almost no smoke, on a heat soaked motor in the middle of summer no less. Scaling back the fueling to get more fueling (by using more pedal) is what I got out of this so far.

Honestly Im happy with how the canbus runs at 150% across the board (altho its a tad smokey), but I cant do that because then I cant use all the pedal to get the most canbus fueling at 40-50% throttle on up. I feel like scaling canbus back is the solution your giving me so that I can use all the pedal and effectively get more fuel from the canbus. Seems a.s.s. backwards to me, when Im trying to get the most fuel out of the system that I can, cause as you saw in the videos shes running clean as a whistle. If I set the fueling to max I'm kinda getting a kick in the pants with this canbus fueling to 2500 or what not, just bc Im not using all the pedal. If I still had my smarty I would have stacked it by now. Bottom line: why does the quad not give me all the fuel when I set it to kill? talk about a big run around to try to reach max performance; yes I know thats not gonna be max driveability but thats not my #1 concern right now, thats my #2 concern. I have a Honda civic for driveability. I have the dodge for fun.

Ill try taking the 50% mininum down to 0%, but I might find that it gives up too much torque. If I use min pump tap boost, when Im ready for wiretap, I want all the wire tap she has (50% on up). These 200hp injectors are CLEAN burning. Maybe if I can ever use more pedal to get more canbus fueling I can scale back wire tap. These 200hp injectors burn completely clean when Im full steam ahead. the 220hp injectors had a very slight haze at full steam. AD tried to have good customer service, but it seems like the product is failed somewhere. Jacob Bayes said on here that the pumps return too much fuel and to crimp the return line, and I bought a radiator hose crimper from harbor fright to do that, I would but my return line is kinda old and I might break it if I do that. However, I do have new line in the garage to run a new return line. I've often wondered if seriously restricting the return line would help, but that seems risky in terms of hurting the VP. Either way, my fuel pressure shouldnt be down to 9-10psi at idle after the truck has heated up. I just went and started it again now, after its been sitting for 2 hours, after my 15 minute drive home from work, and fuel pressure was still 10-11 psi fluctuating. Tomorrow morning it will be just like this morning, 15-16psi. I'd record it and post it here if it were easier.

I was thinking that very same thing, but didnt wanna bug ya to verify. I thought so...

If I put 14.2v to the pump I'll see 20-22psi out of it. It's almost like I need to get more voltage to the dang thing. I gave up with AD customer support many years ago. For many years I've wondered if my AD100 pump that never dropped in pressure would maintain pressure on the truck. Lavon told me it would probably work just as good and just the same as the AD165. I definitely believe him. I've just had so many diesel baths by now that I'm hard pressed to deal with it, but then again its been awhile.

Yeah I know that, but its been impossible ever since I installed the new ad165. They sent out a AD200 to try to remedy the issue. They told me to run my new airdog on the old style base. I tried adding a sump. I have the gas tank well vented. I've tried 3 different sets of lines. I added a power distro block. I tried various relays. I tried the new AD wiring harness and the old airdog wiring harness that came on my truck when it had an airdog 100, which never dropped below 15psi even with the same "50hp" injectors that did drop below 15psi after the D&J motor and compounds went on (my new injectors hard issues). I tried various springs, the viton ball, the plastic ball, changing back to original AD 1 fittings. On and on and on. Only thing I havnt tried is putting the AD100 motor back on. I have AN fittings off the VP 44 pump now (albeit, with used spare that I was told was good). I have changed the overflow valve on the VP44. I have put all new sealing washers on. I havnt changed the return line, however. My next idea is to make my own wiring harness with 10 gauge wire to try to give the pump max voltage. I've chopped their fuse holder out of the harness, as that was melting the plastic around the fuses. I think I have a relay harness somewhere, and I have all the wire and shrink wrap to put a new harness together. Doing that and taking the pump apart to lube all the o-rings for a better seal made the most difference, for lord knows what reason. I also roll with close to a full tank of gas to help give me max pressure when Im testing out tunes and such, for better consistency with fuel pressure. Edit; oh and I've tried two different VP44s, a new II pump and my old reman pump that worked fine. Same fuel pressure probs back to back. 4 different sets of injectors by 3 different people. I'll probably set a boost limit later on, for now I wanted to run the exact tune that ME asked me to run.