mossyoak71

Idle and fueling. Also on my engine it needed to see the ground from the pcm in order to fuel above 1850. That's the revlimit for the auto.

It will work. The only reason I had to use a pcm was for the ground signal. The quad only manipulates the ecm.

I have one but they are the SAC style and I can tell a difference in them. Although they are smaller, they smoke more.

Installed the DDP125's I had laying around and they are running ok. Although they are very Smokey and laggy. Sending the others off today.

Thanks, I'm putting in my other injectors tomorrow and sending these off to be checked and reset.

Thanks and guess I'll put the other ones I have in and send them off. I'll let you know

No needle valve. The injectors are DAP and only have 25k miles on them. The gauge never bounced until this issue started.

The info in my signature is up to date, with that in mind, I have an issue with the engine stumbling. No matter if I'm in the 0 setting or 3 setting it will stumble on acceleration from around 55 mph. When if you slam the throttle. In the stock setting it doesn't do it as bad. Feels like a miss. Now if I place the quad in 4 or 5, it will stumble until it kicks the wire tap in and then you can feel the miss ever so slightly. There are no codes, I have changed out the injector lines all 6 and torqued them down 28lbft. I was thinking it was the old lines, maybe they were just over torqued, no luck. This issue is really prevalent when towing. Now with no codes, could it still be the VP? Also I have noticed that my pressure gauge that I have hooked to the fass is bouncing. Still holding 20psi at the fuel pump, but pulsing. Just confused on where to go. Don't want to start throwing money at it. The VP is 14 months old and has 45k miles on it now. Any advice appreciated, thanks in advance.

Another update: Well an update on the suspension. I did allot of research and measuring and thinking, and thinking some more. My original front axle had 350k miles on it. So I researched rebuilding it and just parts were around 1800. That's new everything. So I decided to go with the 08 suspension. Guess what, all the brackets bolted right up. Had to drill some holes but most holes were there to line everything up. The radius arms mounts were bolted to the frame with 5/8" grade 8 bolts (7 each side). The coil spring buckets were bolted on with 1/2" grade 8 bolts (6 each side) I purchased a 4"zone lift kit with new radius arms. The track bar mount bolted right up, but had to drill and tap a hole on the frame for the front bolt and make a tapered spacer for it. I had to use a Rough Country adjustable track bar to center the axle, the one with the kit was too short. Off by 3/4". The 2 hardest parts of the job were: A) getting all the brackets off the 08 frame, man what a pita. B) trying to mount the 08 sway bar. I made some mount adapters and the are just temporary to make sure everything is good then I will redo them. They look crude right now. All I can say is wish I would have done this when I was doing everything else. Man what a night and day difference in the ride quality, turning radius, and braking. I will post up some pictures of the work shortly.

Hate to hear that, I did mine 2 weeks ago and so far so good. I used the green GOLD. I did not so the intakes, so fingers crossed.

Learn something new, so I guess that's a good reason to get more gauges ? thanks again

I've noticed when I tow my fifth wheel, or any trailer with weight to it, when the temp gauge on the quadzilla app goes past 204 it will read -40c. 5he dummy gauge on the dash is still in the normal range, and if I let off of it for just a little the temp will come back to 204° and slowly drop on down. So has anyone had this issue and if so what is the fix? Thanks

Well I'm doing mine this weekend, just got the green GOLD in.

Well after much deliberation and reading, I have decided to use the Pioneer Automotive T-51444. Just ordered it off eBay. If it doesn't work out, then no harm no foul. I need to o ring my head anyways due to high boost pressure but just haven't talked myself into it yet. So I will by a head and have all the work done to it in the near future. For now I just want to stop the smoking at the stop lights and in slow traffic. Bugs the crap out of me.

Oh I will. We just might find a solution to the problem. Hopefully not a problem to the solution ?

So just ordered 24 of the regular ones and 1 of these. The whole order was only $22. With shipping. Think we've been getting ripped off from other companies. (Parts stores). Just had to set up an account with them under my farm.

I just ordered the others but I will order 1 of these and while I'm doing them I'll check it out.

I'm going to try the Lions head. Cheaper than a head and removing it for the work. Fingers crossed!!!?

No, not yet I accidentally ordered them. The intake side still looks new. My exhaust seals look like a beaver got in the valve cover and just chewed them up. I've noticed that if I don't get over 35 psi they last but as soon as I have a couple of good hard 50+ psi runs then the start the slightest smoke then it just gets worse in time. Bugging the death out of me. So I'm watching this!!?

Very interested, my exhaust seals are the only ones I have to keep replacing. I just chaulked it up to twins. But I also got the top hat ones and was told about the lip, so I'm looking for an 03 head. But will wait to hear from this thread.

I built my sick o, 3 times and it finally made me PUKE!! I'm a die-hard blue oval man, but I did the swap with an 02 Cummins and love it. I will say that my 6o was built, studded, and pushing 600+hp. Now off the line it would get the jump on what I have now. With that said, the twin turbos light in this Cummins and it's caddy bar the doors, hold on tight. Haven't had it on a Dyno yet but I'm sure it is more than the sick o had. But this is my 2¢ worth. Love the fummins!! Only thing I can tell you is talk to DCS. Diesel Conversion specialties. I know they have done it, but if I recall, you need the steering column because there is a module that is in it to get it to run. Something like the PATS system on Ford's.

Glad you were forced to find the fault. Sometimes that's the only way I can figure out things. Put me in a bind and I'll get it!

Have you tried just to power the relays with another key on source, and see if it happens. Just do your fuel pump and see if it still does it. I use a key on power wire, not the ECM wire for it. No issues as of yet.

Have you figured it out?

Well time for an update. All I can say is GOOD GOD ALMIGHTY!!?. This build was amazing and fun, although I had some issues along the way, it was worth every penny. I have changed the injectors to DAP 7x.012 and also put a ATS fummins torque converter in. everything else is the same. So far I have put 30k miles on it, towing light and heavy, city, and hiway miles. The only thing I'm having a hard learning curve with is the tuning. But slowly I'm learning. I have used the tune builder on here and then did some tweaking to it. Again thanks for all the help.