gipperkid

On 2/23/2021 at 6:12 PM, MikeH said:

Not cheap but worth it to me. I believe it was around $1500 bucks for both. You can get a refurbished pair for close to the same but they've had some major invasive surgery done to them. Mine came from a fully functioning rig with 50K fewer miles on it.

My wife and I travel a lot and occasionally head down to Mexico. Having both computers tucked under the back seat is just good insurance. 

I have a spare under the seat of my truck as well, but it has the wrong programming. Smarty can get you the correct software to upload. PCM is original, but my ECM gave up the ghost around 93k.

3 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

6 CYL Mode requires the coolant <140*F and the IAT <32*F with grid heaters actively heating.  Typically close to 25*F outside.

3 CYL Mode requires the coolant <140*F and the IAT <15*F with grid heaters actively heating.  Typically close to +5*F outside.

 

Quadzilla anything below your set "Warm up" temp will lock the tuner to level 0. Then waits the delay and then starts 1,200 High idle. 

Any High idle switches in production?

On 1/31/2021 at 7:51 PM, Dieselfuture said:

^^^ that and see if you can get 2001-2002 ECM and have it programed to your truck. Last versions of ECM were better made, what I'm told. 

Can any of these ECMs be programmed to your specific truck?

I kept a spare ECM from a 2001 Ram 2500 H.O. 6 speed. The Cummins ID numbers are the same as my ECM. But when I installed on my truck to make sure it worked I no oil pressure gauge or temp gauge, but the engine ran and drove fine. Just threw the CELs of course.

On 2/6/2021 at 3:35 AM, jag said:

Got the good & bad on the ECM today. Good is it can be rebuilt, bad is, can't get the parts to rebuild it. I have had enough.

 I ordered a 3947912 for a 2002 & getting programed for a 2000. Thank you ACS. End of story.....

Until I get it installed.  

My ECM with 3947912 went bad. Had ACS fix it, but had to send it back once. Been good so far but I don't drive the truck much.

1 minute ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Link to the write up?

 

Pfff...now the pictures are there. I swear they weren't there yesterday.

Not to get off topic, but the pictures are missing from the simplified bypass write-up.

@ThreadzyHappen to have a list a parts you bought? And a list of the machine work turbo lab did? I may just want to do this as well.

Who did the machine work?

Instead heating the battery tray, could the sides just be trimmed off? Or could a spacer be placed on top of the sensor?

 Is the HE351 still a popular swap versus going with a 62/68/12?

So I'm guessing ACS blamed the failed repaired ECM on a still existing problem on your truck?

Just now, Bullet said:

Yes it can.  That's not the most cost-effective route but it can just as easily be done.  Yes the Hobbs switch would cut power to the FASS as soon as it senses pressure from the Fuel Boss...which would be 1-2 seconds after cranking approximately. 

Yes, as far as cost definitely expensive. I already have a FASS, but I was just looking at reliability. Any electric motor/pump will fail eventually. I wish I would have bought the Fuel Boss instead.

Probably a dumb question. But could the fuel boss could be used in conjunction with a FASS? Once running the Hobbs switch would just cut the power to the FASS.

20 hours ago, pepsi71ocean said:

There is a company in California that builds wiring harnesses for vehicles. You ship them your current one and they build you a new one. Can't remember their name. I'd have to look.

Definitely would be interested in knowing.

48 minutes ago, Me78569 said:

 

a 62/68/12 is good for 200+ hp injectors with proper tuning or 7 x .010's without  I wouldn't even consider running that turbo with 50's lol.

with proper tuning 7 x .010's are GREAT for a stock hx35.  

 

 

Eventually plan on getting a 62/68/12. But are you saying 7 x .011's are better for the size turbo? I already have 7 x .010s to go in.

I wonder if there is a way to bypass the WTS? 

On 3/20/2013 at 9:40 PM, dripley said:

I have been the rebuilt ecm route with the results being a nice pricey paper weight. Had to send it back the first time it was rebuilt. Actually they told me my core was bad and I also lost my core charge. The freshly rebuilt one generated a 606 code that the core did not. I ended up with one from Dodge. Wasted a lot of time and money.

Just recently had to send my ECM back to be repaired again, after only 3 months. Need to find time to check the wiring harness I suppose. But I've had the spare ECM since and no issues at all.

@Dynamic I brought up the need for a billet intermediate shaft in another thread. What is your position when to use a billet intermediate?

11 hours ago, Evan said:

Lol yeah.

 

I kinda close my ears whenever I hear or see built 47re. Most people that seem to say it have no clue what's in it

I mean like a Dynamic or Firepunk built transmission. Just want to know if a billet intermediate should be added during a build.

18 hours ago, Bullet said:

I love my triple too.  Mine definitely feels like it locks harder but I went from stock to triple.  I went with billet flex, input and intermediate just to be safe.  Kept the stock output but I won't have to pull the entire tranny to change it if it ever craps out on me.  Nothing puts the power down like a triple. 

For a normal built trans that is not abused is it better to have the billet intermediate?

What air line fittings are being used for the gauge senders?

12 hours ago, dripley said:

Part of that ground mod was to relocate the ECM and VP ground from the passanger battery. Thats the ground @pepsi71ocean is speaking of.

Well I did remove the grounds from the wire loom and relocated those grounds to the case next to the VP.

Does the HE31CW require modifications to work or more drop in ready?

Also is the K27 old tech? Came across a decent used one for a fair price.

22 hours ago, pepsi71ocean said:

 

We'll I'd pull the instrument cluster and then check the wiring between the cluster and the ECM. Then I'd look at the cranking voltage and see what it gets down to when cranking. I'd pull the vp44 relay in the box and crank it over. 

 

I'd wonder about that. Either could be an issue, but so could be ac blow by from there alternator or the grounds being dirty better the cluster and the passenger side battery where the ECM ground is. 

So just put the DVM on the battery posts while cranking?

I did the W-T ground mod and have .016 at the alternator.

I didn't do anything with the passenger battery grounds.

14 hours ago, Haggar said:

Gipper,

 

I hope you find it.  I am pretty sure they can tell too much amperage flowed through pin 37.  Here is the wiring diagram for an 01.  That wire goes through three junctions and goes near the steering column. so good potential for issues.  It is a computer output going to a driver, so it should only see a small amount of amperage flow.

 

Disconnect the ECM and pull the cluster and check to see if you have continuity to ground on the orange/black wire.  If you do, its in the wiring.  It will be harder to troubleshoot the cluster itself.  hope that it is in the wiring.

 

GL

 

Hag

2001 FSM Ram 8w-30-34.pdf 232.87 kB · 1 download

So test continuity at the plug going to the cluster? Or test between the ECM plug and cluster plug?

I have looked at the wiring diagram, but where does the wire for pin 37 begin/terminate.

ACS emailed back with their findings:

"We received your unit and it is blown again. 

If you can track down the factory pan gasket with the two oring seals in it. No sealant, no leaks, and reusable.

@Dynamic have any sales coming up?