leety

Not sure I just had it at idol to see if I could get a reading and learn a bit more about the tool. I'll go out for a spin later and see what it does. I stripped the readout so I only see the MAP I can add something back to the display to understand the correlation. Is there something that would be good to evaluate along side the MAP data? I can bring that back and when I take it for a spin I can study that more and let you know what I learn.

Ok here goes with stupid newb question. What's a PID? I updated my profile with the mods list and pictures. Some funky wiring in there that I'll be cleaning up in the near future. Ah PID got that. Sorry for the blond streak question. Would this be what I need to measure? Looks like I can define the range or the MAP parameters manually. Can you tell me what the values should be? Fun tool looks like I can customize the crap out of it. Got it recently and haven't spent much time with it yet. Can you tell me what I should be measuring and if there are any relationships that can help me figure this black smoke issue out? i.e. Engine load w/MAPs or something like that?

1) Will get back to you on mods 2) will check for boost leaks 3) no codes 4) I have a Blue Driver on my iPhone with the bluetooth widget. I can see some realtime data. What data should I be looking for?

Finally got this figured out. The wire on the lift pump was dangling. It broke completely off when I took out the connector to test the pump. The connector has since been fixed. Once the wire was fixed I took the truck for a quick drive and the check engine light turned off on it's own. Now I can pull codes again with the ODB2 scanning tools. I'm thinking the flaked out wire connected to the lift pump was the cause of the ODB2 communication failure. Just a theory though. Thanks for all the info ya'll very helpful.

When I first got the truck, there was a lot of black smoke coming out the tail pipe, more or less all of the time. I changed the fuel filter and most of it stopped (I don't think it had ever been changed), but perhaps that is coincidental. Now I get quite a bit of black smoke when I step on it. I also put in a fuel pressure gague and the fuel pressure is running about 12-13 at idol and can drop well below 5 when I put the hammer down. Any thoughts or suggestions would be great!

Yes that's the one I was considering. Great to hear your feedback. I agree about looking into the tank to see what lurks. Since the tank is virtually full and I'm working in gravel I see the bed removal as the best process for my situation. 6 to one half dozen to the other. I agree with simplicity but will probably make redundancy a concern, it's kind my way. Perhaps that's why I had 4 kids LOL.

Makes sense. The fuel level sender is a must. My philosophy, If you know something is going to go bad in the near foreseeable future, and you have the easy opportunity to replace it wile something else is apart, it's nuts not to replace it. Seise the day! Reliability is my primary goal here. Fuel economy is #2.

I do not have the in-tank "upgrade" is there something I should be considering doing to whatever is in my tank? Do I need to drop the take or tip up the bed to connect the 1/2" line kit? Would that be a good time to address this. Unfortunately I have a full tank of gas right now and I'm doing this work on 3/4 rock so dropping the tank won't be too fun. If I have a choice tip up the bed sounds easier. Your thoughts?

Thanks for the language translation. I see we have another caviate that I was unaware of. Good to know. Every vehicle has them, the good news is they appear to be all known and mostly overcomable on these trucks. Years of people tinkering and upping the engineering game on the shortcomings. One of the cool things about this truck. Indeed that is true!!! I'm leaning in the direction of 1/2" lines with a redundant dual pump system, one mechanical, one electric @ the stock location on the block. I'm a big fan of redundancy. More research to do though before I decide.

Sorry for the likely dumb nub question but here goes: What is a fuel basket? Just found this debate! Great stuff! Based on what I'm reading there 1/2" appears to be the better choice. There appear to be some smart folks around here.

Thanks this is a 3/8 line and I was reading somewhere that a 1/2" line upgrade was the cool thing to do for reliability. Looks like this kit goes form the transfer/pick up pump to the VP44 but it seems it would be wise to run the same size line from the gas tank to the transfer/pick up pump. What is your wisdom on the 1/2" line vs 3/8" line? Also what are your thoughts on running line from the gas tank all the way to the VP44 for the entire supply line?

Where did you get the big line kit?

Those look cool! I'll look into them thank you!!!

What do you guys think about setting up a switchable on-board secondary back up pump system. Like having the Air Dog factory replacement installed as a back up to the Fass or AD bigger system mounted in the rear as the primary pump. My IT background tells me some redundancy might save the life of a VP44 at some point along with making sure one never gets stuck out in the middle of nowhere, my favorite place to be :-) Can you please tell me more about the fittings options?

Are you running that with a stock truck? My goal is to fuel economy + reliability. Would a 100 make more sense for that program? Not sure how to figure that which model to choose.

Makes sense. I have a 24 valve. I think I like the Fass, because, well easier to install. Do you know if there is any good info on the 1/2" line install so I can make sure that is done right?

Every new day brings a new discovery!! So today I destupided (it's the blond streaks I can't help it) and learned from this site, that I was exiting the turn key switch 3x trick do dump codes too soon, as a result I was missing out on all the fun of getting the 2nd code. I pulled 2 codes from the PCM I got a P1693 and from the ECU I got a P0230. Mind you, I was unable to pull these codes with any ODB2 scan tool. I've tried 3 different ones. I still can't pull either of those codes with and ODB2 scan tool, even with the connector disconnected. I followed these instructions and when I took off the connector, and I was super careful about it, the yellow wire broke off right at the connector. I was unable to get a reading for ohms of any kind when measuring the ground pin on the fuel transfer pump connector at the unit. The weird thing is the truck was seemingly running okay prior to all this. I had just changed the fuel filter and got a fuel pressure reading of 14-15 psi. So the question is should I just decommission this poorly engineered pump scenario and move forward with a FASS Fuel system and upgrade to 1/2" lines rather than fighting the battle to fix this one?

Hi This is awesome! Where can I find TEST VER-2A??

Always first things first. The only way to eat a Rhinoceros is one bite at a time.

No doubt! I've gota get my battery terminals squared away as a first step. They are a hot mess right now. The lead ends and bolts are compromised, loose, funky and can't be tightened at all. I'm going to upgrade to crimped and soldered military terminal ends. Then I'll go after the system wiring you gave me. I feel like I need sound connections to my batteries before I go chasing down electrical issues. First things first. I have lots of other vehicles to drive around here so the dragon will sit until I can get some parts delivered up here.

I'll have to look into that as well. I like the primary filter idea.

Makes sense to have more throughput. 2001 Dodge Diesel Cummins, some reengineering is required. LOL But all things considered a really awesome truck.

Awesome thanks. I saw your newer video on the Alternator nose yesterday on Youtube but I wasn't sure what the spec was for acceptable. Very good to know. What do you think about the VP44 from Industrial Injection?

Other than a proper on board fuel pressure gauge, the Lift Pump and the VP44 is there anything else that needs to happen with brining the fuel system up to reliable? As well which lift pump and VP44 would you recommend? I will go broke if I have fuel system parts done at a shop here. They see a female coming and triple their prices. The dealers here won't work on older vehicles, much less this beasty. I'll do this all myself becuase I can. So I'm in the mountains (2200ft above sea level) fixing my own stuff, as usual. It's not exactly the "Malibu" you see on TV up here. LOL

Yes indeed. That's a great topic! I have a fuel pressure gauge kit on its way to go with the pyrometer and boost gauge. Based on my research, that's where it starts. I'm on the fence about which lift pump to put in. I'm not going to be hot rodding this truck. I have another vehicle for going fast. I'm basically going for stock with the minimal mods it already has. I'm working my way towards reliability and fuel economy and getting the truck to a place where it will last for decades and I can tow my other car to the track, or whatever else I want to without worrying about the truck breaking down in the middle of nowhere.