LegendaryKing

UPDATE: I installed the factory size belt. I'll update this after a few miles. Factory size belt New Tensioner and pulley New Mechman alternator with the smaller pulley.

So I just had a Southbend Dual Disc Clutch installed in my NV5600 truck and the whole truck shakes. If you press the clutch pedal in the shaking stops. Once the truck warms up it shakes less. It feels like the truck is running on 5 cyl. What is going on? Did the shop install the clutch wrong? Is this normal?

I spent quite a bit of time searching for the correct belt for a Mechman alternator install. What belt are you running on your small pulley high performance alternator? THANKS!

That's the sump I'm running.

Thanks for the pics. How much fuel gets sent to the return? What is the temp of the fuel being dumped by the return? What is the temp where diesel fuel is no longer safe?

WOW! I just spent some time researching and there is some serious pseudo science going on with regards to fuel cooling. People arguing about BTU's, viscosity, volume, etc etc. Nothing of what I read had any real hard evidence backing up anything ... just wild claims and people pointing to the fact that fuel coolers exist. Know what else exists? The tornado fuel saver, fuel rail magnets, engine ionizers ... This reminds me of the trans fluid to lubricate injectors debate ... it all started when farmers started getting caught with red fuel on roadside inspections (aka running non-taxed off road diesel in their on road vehicles). An easy way to get out of trouble was to say you were running transmission fluid and that wasn't the die they put in non-taxed off road diesel. And then the game of telephone started .... I'm not saying fuel temperature is something that needs to be addressed, I'm just saying if anyone has any evidence/fact based information it would make my personal research a lot easier.

Got any information on fuel heating?

In tank pump here too. I went the tank sump route and have my send and return at the sump.

If my Fuel Boss ever fails for any reason (belt, pump failure, etc) my factory lift pump takes over and I get a warning light and I'm never left on the side of the road.

Truck is stock for now. I'm researching the most reliable way to meet my 400-500 hp goal and I'm conservative and tend to over build for reliability. This comes from my time building racecars. Light weight, high strength, low cost; pick 2. I'll probably end up building a truck capable of handling 700+ and feed it a diet of 450ish. At least that is the track record I have so far. I have driven and built a number of multi-disc clutches over the years. The shift quality remains OE in all of them; however the clutch tends to grab right away ... There is no slipping a clutch in traffic to keep you out of the guy in front of you's trunk. If the rear main seal isn't leaking I'll leave it be. Thanks for your help everyone. BTW, clutch is already here.

The twin disc ... Called them up on the phone. I'm thinking I should replace the rear main seal while I'm in there. Anything else I should look at?

Clutch & hydraulics ordered from DAP. Thanks for your help everyone.

So I still need to get a slave and master? Or this part replaces those?

Diesel Auto power is a sponsor? Then I'll order it from them. Dap lists a southbend heavy duty hydraulic assembly. Is that the master and slave?

Who is DAP?

The clutch is slipping so it's time to upgrade. It's so bad I hope I make it home. Which online store has good customer service and sells southbend clutches?

I'm trying to decide if I keep it tame with rv275's or go more wild with it. My concern is at 400-500hp is the truck still reliable? What is the turbo selection for 400-500hp? I was looking at the Audrino gen 4 turbo but I'm not certain that is a good choice yet. Heating what up? I'm waiting on the PTO extensions to come in the mail and I'm changing to redline oil. By an extra quart are you recommending that to overfill the transmission to cover certain parts or simply for additional volume for extra capacity to absorb heat? Is this a good choice for a turbo? http://fleeceperformance.com/dodge/1994-2002-63mm-fmw-hx35-cheetah-turbocharger-brand-new-no-core-charge.html

I have 4.10 gears and you have the 3.55's according to your article. Stock tires are 245/75 R16 Currently running 265/65 R18

Hydraulic Hybrid Vehicles SHOULD be the future but probably won't. Unfortunately the EPA/US Government owns the licensing and is down right impossible to work with. Add to that Congress is pushing electric vehicles with tax breaks for development, production, and purchase with ZERO dollars going to HHV (or any other non electric/battery development) ... this working, affordable, light weight, REAL, CURRENT technology may never see the light of day. Not to mention, HHV's can work WITH electric vehicles to extend range and performance. (insert crazy conspiracy theory here)

Truck: 2001 1 ton Quad Cab 4x4 6 speed HO 24v 5.9 VP44 150k miles Diamond Eye 4” stainless exhaust Fuel Boss lift pump w/ big line kit Stock other than that Philosophy of use: Truck is to be a safe and reliable daily driver. Truck will also be used to tow a small camper short and long distances. Reliability, fuel economy, and towing capability with low EGT’s are more important than a large dyno number. Goal: Reliable 24v in the 400-500hp range (Number is less important than a good running truck). Keeping the VP44 Trying to decide if RV275's and tuner are the best route (staying mild and reliable) or if I should go wild with much larger injectors and a turbo(s) upgrade. I'm looking for recipes and don't know when things start to break in the drive line/engine. Really liking the SMARTY Touch with UDC Pro On the plus side the truck pulled a 3,500lb camper up 6% grades and I only had to down shift into 5th occasionally. Most of the time it kept pulling at the 65-70mph range in 6th gear. Unfortunately the truck STILL has ridiculously slow acceleration.

Nothing new on the truck. Been working on a certification for work and haven't had a spare minute in the last 60+ days and probably won't for another 90+.

We had the same problem with most of the appliances in our home. We switched to a Bialetti Moka coffee maker and never looked back. No electronics to go bad, better tasting (less sour and stronger) and easy to clean. We were also going through toasters about once every 6 months ... and we made toast maybe once or twice a week. Purchased everything from the consumer reports recommendation to internet praised units. Switched to a Sunbeam T9 toaster (1939 debut) about five years ago and haven't looked back. Then there was the time the circuit board in our oven fried and the broiler turned on and wouldn't shut off. I had to shut the oven off at the breaker. It boiled over and scorched a pot that was soaking on the top of the stove, melted a decorative towel that was on the handle. The element got so hot that it started to fall and was mm's away from the door glass. The repair man said we were minutes away from the element making contact with the glass, having the glass explode and setting the kitchen on fire. The house was already full of white smoke ... the lesson learned is we now have a gas stove with an external manual shut off valve. I could go on, but the sentiment is it's difficult to find products made now that aren't 100% pure garbage.

Sounds good. I appreciate it.

Just as the title suggests. What tools do you keep in your truck 24/7? My list is ever changing but right now I have: Tarp Ratchet straps Stretch Net Vice Grip Claw Hammer Pry bar Belt tensioner tool (and belt) Small ratchet kit Adjustable wrench Channel lock pliers Screwdrivers Zip ties Tow strap Bottle jack I can't even begin to tell you how many times I have used all of these tools for everything conceivable and some things I never imagined. What do you keep in your truck?

So the quadzilla works like the old school Haltech Interceptor and Greddy e-manage. Interesting. Why does no one rate injectors by what they flow?