Silverwolf2691

A couple of us have a Fuel Boss from GDP, myself included. If i had to guess, PDD was trying to push their pump too far. GDP I dont believe has an option for 12v trucks. The ppumps take a loooot of fuel volume and pressure, especially when competing. 60+psi is not uncommon, same with dash 10 fuel line. (At least once you start into the 13mm plus ppump range). The Fuel Boss is 1/4 or 1/2 inch npt into dash 6 fittings. So the pump itself becomes a restriction. Most step up to a Waterman or Aeromotive mechanical pump to supply the fuel hungry ppumps. They flow in the 5 gpm plus range. An Airdog 220 is around 2.5 gpm. I believe Glacier is the most proven, but not the first. The mitusa or the assassin was first but i think both are now defunct.

What boost are you seeing? The wastegate setting (35psi) they put on is barely over what a factory hx35 can do.. the 64 mm comperessor should be pushing 45+ with 7x010s and a quad.. the wastgate isn't letting the compressor actually get into its stride and provide enough air The 9cm^2 housing while not ideal, shouldnt have a problem with an rzr.. The other thing is the 11 blade compressor is a higher pressure design. As best I understand compressor design from digging around forums all over, the stacked/staggered blade like a factory hx35 (6+6) is a mix of high volume/high pressure. All the same height (11 blades) cant "grab" as much air as the other design. But if i remember correctly, it is able to maintain a higher pressure. Turbos like the 5 blade mafia turbos (5+5) can move a lot more air because they are more "open" (bigger area between the blades). But they cant maintain as high of boost as easy. This is My understanding of a mix of forum posts, please take with a grain of salt. Even my understanding is likely flawed.

My brothers truck has no power to - the radio - the power windows - the door locks - and dome lights he also has no power to his brake lights. Every now and then though he gets them to turn on while driving or moving a connector. Haven't had a chance to go and see what connector he's referring to. My first thought was the IOD fuse but it gets power every now and then. All of those circuits I believe run to the in dash fuse panel. Is there anywhere else that they connect to? 2001 Ram 2500 p24v dually conversion, slight basket case

Bought a new Samsung tablet. Tab A7 10.4. Exported a data log today, granted over WiFi, but it worked normally. Working on mounting it. Current way was a pair of Scosche vent magic mounts. Unfortunately, one of the plates wont stay stuck to the back of the tablet. Used rubbing alcohol to clean off the surface. I think the heat of accidentally leaving it in the truck during the heat of the day loosened the sticky stuff on the back of the mount. Might try looking for a replacement plate but not sure if that will bear fruit. (Nevermind, they are like 9 bucks direct from the manufacturer). Might also look for a case to use/attach the plates to instead, if previous search turns up anything. Decisions, decisions.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1xYnVxW2XTOyTw5yrxhHp6MEWzqSwPVufXqI4f6lnyBo/edit?usp=sharing Hope this is able to be opened. Sheet 2 is a wide open-ish acceleration. Sheet 1 is the whole data log. It's a lot of info.

@Me78569, no boost leak test yet.. need to find a better coupler. Mines not long enough to hold the pvc pipe above about 10 psi. @Threadzy, 6%-9% for engine load at idle. I'll see what I can do about a data log of what everything is doing. Might help and couldn't hurt.

Morning all, I've been having some issues with my daily tune for my Quadzilla. I have +50hp injectors that are 4 yrs/20k miles old and have had the Quad for about 2 years now. I can't seem to tune out the smoke In the 0-5 psi area on tip in acceleration. Cruising is clean and at 0-3 psi but anytime I'm hitting a small hill or pulling out onto a road and getting onto it there's a decent haze its not a black out but its enough to be confused/concerned about. It doesn't seem to clean up until 15ish psi. I don't know if pop pressure would be low or if my injectors are a bad set. Also I could have sworn I saw @dieselautopower mention that they updated their injectors to be cleaner semi-recently. Understand that I'm not looking for free replacement or anything, I got them in 2017, mine are out of warranty as far as I know. I am just looking for info right now. I have been running a 90% start to the fuel table, plus 1 each PSI until 10 then 100% flat from 10-15 then +2 from 15-20 psi, then plus +4 from 22-30+. (previous to noon today) Maybe I have my timing messed up? At lunch I'm gonna try the tune below. Daily Power Levels: 6 RPM Limit: 3200 Max Valet Mode Power: 70% Max Fuel Stretch: 1200 us TPS Pump Max: 100% TPS Pump Min: 0% Minimum Pump Tap: 0% Pump Low Boost Scale PSI: 20 PSI Boost Scaling: 40 PSI Max Load Timing Offset: 1° Low PSI Timing Reduct: 5° Timing Reduct Scaling: 50% Light Throttle Timing Adv: 6° Light Throttle Load Limit: 24% RPM Timing Max: 1500: 14 2000: 18.5 2500: 23 3000: 27.5 Max: 30 Canbus fueling: 0 - 15 PSI: 85-100% (+1) 16-20 PSI: 102-108% (+2) 22-30+ PSI: 112-128% (+4)

@Mopar1973Man, I do see your point. But my scenario is usually on the off chance that I loose prime to the inlet side of the pump. If it's on the pressure side, the truck cranks a bit longer but will start. As I'm writing this, I realize that might mask a few problems that would otherwise become very evident. The pics I included are the flow rates of the Fuel Boss as shipped normally and with the hyper drive kit. I was going to make an argument about the flow rates at start up but I think that would be like trying to fill a colander with water. The only part I could argue is that the Fuel Boss pumps while cranking while the electric pumps don't (I think, unless that's the pulsing when you bump the starter). Other than that, the Fuel Boss is usually shipped with a hobbs switch to control the factory fuel pump to take care of priming the system with a key bump. Fuel Boss normal install for any one wondering: https://www.glacierdieselpower.com/files/98-5-02-fuel-boss-install-manual.pdf Full mechanical was my decision, and I have to live with some of the draw backs. I'm not saying its best for everyone. Maybe I have just been lucky in that I haven't had issues with loosing prime so I haven't had to deal with the issues I stated more than a small handful of times.

Throwing my hat into the ring here, my brother has a 2001 p-pump 24v. (bought it like that). we had to redo the fuel system on that truck a few times. currently runs a sump and a FASS titanium (I think, been a while since we did that swap.) I personally am not a fan of sumps in general with one exception, the Beans Diesel sump. Its only one hole with a center mounted screw for tightening the internal clamp. Most times, when sumps leak its because people don't deburr or silicone the multitude of screw holes on other types of sumps. Of all the fuel related issues with that truck, the sump isn't one that has caused us issues. My truck runs a draw straw into the canister, through the top of the module, instead of through the tank. wanted to be able to revert to semi stock or start over if I goofed an install instead of finding a whole new tank. I have ran the truck until the gauge was on empty, to the point that my truck was sputtering going around corners (don't do this, its bad for everything). I think I put my fuel pressure regulator return into there as well. Its been a few years since I did that upgrade/fix. Sending unit float came off the stick, plus fuel pressure regulator install, then drilled the wrong area for the draw straw on the old sending unit, so new unit was needed. got the hole right, and gutted the in-tank pump from the new unit. Wasn't hard, all honesty, the hardest part was using a Dremel to clean out the underside of the sending unit. its got a stiffening grid on the underside where its clamped into the tank. I'm also running a full mechanical Fuel Boss lift pump setup from Glacier Diesel Power. One issue I have with it is priming the system after either a pre-pump line replacement or if I drain the tank dry. But its only a pain because you need a couple wrenches and a power drill to spin the lift pump. Get adjustment bolts loose, move pump over to be able to get the belt off, hang on pump pulley. Loosen the vp44 inlet fitting. Tighten drill chuck so it can't spin the jaws. Put belt around chuck, Spin the same direction the belt moves when the engine is running. Stop when fuel comes out of vp44 inlet fitting. Tighten vp44 inlet fitting. Then crack injector lines and finish purging the air from the system. Other issues I had was lack of fuel pressure with included check valve/pressure regulator (fixed) and it's in front of the main belt, so the fuel pump belt has to come off to replace or remove the serpentine belt. but two of those issues are a rare occurrence and the other issue was fixed with an actual fuel pressure regulator.

With 4.10s my 65 mph is on its way to about 2250 rpm. I think I'm running 23-24 degrees on cruise. Whatever the speedo needle angle is at, my RPM is matching it. Thank you for the correction about your truck. Was remembering the 19 degrees at 2k rpm that I had found.

Tail shaft seal on the tcase has a hole to allow water to drain out I believe. The actual seal is farther up there it presses into the case. The black external part is a bumper for impacts and a buffer for water. Check the slip yoke for burrs or worn down areas. are the u joints new or are they older? I may have been under the assumption that they were new.. Jeebus...

Most people have the best luck with 7x.010 injectors. The Smarty feel is because the smarty takes or throttle position range and compresses it to 25-50% of normal. So, when you are at say 25% of the tps travel, you are getting 100% fuel. any pedal movement afterward is not accounted for for fueling. That's why it fuels so hard and smokes so much. But its only +65hp. Quad is up to +180hp because of wire tap, and can clean up very large injectors because of below factory fueling capability. I haven't had larger injectors yet, but I believe a few on here have said that the biggest low end power feeling is from larger injectors. If its quick spool you are after there is the HX Super 9. It's a (60, 62, 67)/67/9. I think its a super HX40 with an HY35 exhaust housing, other than that I have no idea. It spools fast but gets very warm. One of the sled pullers that I was with this past Saturday (6/12) had a 62/67/9 version. He said it spools lightning quick, but gets extremely toasty going down the track. I believe you are referring to the PowerFlo from fleece. It would definitely be stealth and no hole drilled for a sump. I wish they put actual flow numbers instead of "..enough fuel for 800hp/able to feed dual CP3s." It's arbitrary, 800hp from a common rail is easier/less fuel than 800hp from a vp44 or p-pump for that matter. The Cummins from the factory has its torque peak at 1600 RPM. what helps with that feeling is the turbo. Fast spool gets you that seat of the pants being flattened to the seat feeling. Larger turbos seem to make the feeling more intense but its way up in the RPM band usually. Flashing the ECM using like a smarty generally isn't damaging (I believe). But either way the Quad allows so much more versatility than anything else. The factory tune from Quadzilla is not really even good so you have to do some amount of tuning to begin with. Just remember, through this we have found that every truck is very different in what it likes and doesn't like for timing and fueling. My truck likes high cruise timing, partly because I have 4.10s and an HO VP44. Me78569's old truck liked high timing for some reason, Mopar1973Man's truck likes lower timing at cruise. Literally everything affects the tune: tires, gears, truck body style (weight), the fuel you put into your tank, towing a trailer, what you do with the truck, your terrain/climate you live in.. Hopefully this isnt scaring you away from the quad but there's a reason that it can hold 10 tunes (I think). You can have one for racing, towing, winter, summer, daily, highway, freeway, etc. Each one is fueled and timed differently for the most power and efficiency if you so chose. @Me78569, am I close on the Smarty info? Trying to remember from the tidbits you have sprinkled through the forum.. lol

@Stanley, What part of the ujoint was hot? The cross or the caps? there is a possibility the yoke got bent on old ujoint removal and is putting pressure on the needles, causing excess friction and heat. other than that I'm not sure. Never felt my ujoints after a run, might be normal.. hope you have a good impact for the pinion seal. That nut is on there with an absurd amount of torque, 500-600 ft/lbs if memory serves. rear seal on the tcase is relatively easy, just make sure the weep hole is facing down when installed on the truck. not sure about the traction bars.. I would think they would help because things aren't moving as much. But the pinion and tcase are the next things to move, if only the clearance of the pinion bearing and the transmission mount. might explain the wear in the seals.. You have 140k in your sig, is that still close?

Do you have any mods already? What are you planning to use the truck for? *Main studs and rod bolts, I thought they could be reused? only really dealt with top end rebuilding so far, so unsure on this. Those are my thoughts and ramblings. Truck use and mods will also dictate to an extent what you need to put into the motor.

Honest question, what are you looking for? Are you looking for more power out of what you already have or are you looking to alleviate an issue? Or are you asking about the actual tip differences between SAC and VCO? Injectors generally don't start having idle quality issues until you start getting into the race levels (+300hp injectors and pump alterations). Max low RPM torque is a bit subjective. Are you looking for instant spool? That's generally part of what makes it feel fast.. Its hard to beat 1600 RPM for peak torque. @Me78569 is correct, Infinite Performance is the best money can buy. But I think the injectors you mentioned might be a bit big for that turbo, if its a regular super b. It's a 57/65/14. 150s might get a bit toasty, It's only a bit larger than factory. Also, the comp box isn't going to help on the EGT front, also very little smoke control. If its a super b special, that's a whole different ball game at 64/71/14. Would personally recommend a 62/65/12 for street-ability with a comp. This forum has many advocates for a Quadzilla Adrenaline V2. @Mopar1973Man runs a 60/60/12 hx35/40 hybrid with 7x.010 (150s) pretty much smoke free with a Quad V2.

@Mopar1973Man, I hope the 2002 doesn't get jealous of you spending so much time with Thor.. As for the topic at hand, @Turbo Terry, what is your intent with doing the bedlined wheel wells? Looks? Also you are asking about fender flares with the Bushwhackers. If you are asking if the bed lining is a replacement for them , I'd say it depends on what you are needing them for. - If you are doing it to keep wide tires under a fender, then no, bed liner won't work its only about a 1/4 inch thick. - If you are doing it to keep rust at bay then you need to do a lot more than just the lip of the fender well. Like @Dieselfuture said, they (fenders) rot from the inside out. The plastic fender liners that come factory in my opinion dont help because they trap sand/salt/water, and because a Cummins vibrates, it "microsands" through the paint and metal. Fender flares and, by extension, mud flaps trap water and sand behind them. I'm not a fan of fender flares in general. Jeeps are known for having the fenders rot out behind the flares. But since it stays out of sight until the rot goes beyond the flare or the flare falls off from no support, it looks pristine. Bed liner on the bottom would be the best in my opinion to keep some of the road rash away. But if you don't prep the surface right, or get rid of the rust, you are gonna have a bed liner skin with nothing behind it. Or it's going to start chipping/flaking bed liner off.

Most of the time when I hear about lope-ing (loping?) it sounds like the video or slightly more pronounced, more akin to a cammed small block or big block. Usually when you dig through the comments on YouTube it come to light that they have oversize lines and tubes. I've seen .120 lines and tubes and those are a very pronounced slower lope vs .083 or .093 lines and tubes. I forget/don't know what level the dragonflow pump is, but if its on the same level as a stage 2 and up monster pump, you need the lines, tubes, and injectors to be oversized so that the pump doesn't blow itself up. Supposedly, monster pumps, possibly dragonfire/dragonflow and higher stage lightning pumps, have other modifications that increase the pressure/volume inside the high pressure area of the pump. If you don't have at least .093 lines and tubes, you run a high risk of the pump eating itself because of the extra pressure and flow. *This is stuff I've read over the past couple of years on CompD. Some of that info is pre 2010 so I don't know how accurate the info is nowadays.* Diesel Auto Power might also be able to help or call Industrial Injection and ask if the oversize lines and tubes are required. If not, you might be able to replace them with standard size stuff and get rid of the stalling and loping. Especially if this is your daily, Which it sounds like it is.

Load, its not just the mechanical pumping of the refrigerant its also the electrical load of the magnet of the compressor clutch. Your truck also has anti-stall if you haven't flashed it with a smarty. Its usual job is to keep the engine running while easing off the clutch, but it also comes into play when you load the engine at an idle I believe. With everything fueling wise you have the computer is trying to compensate for it (extra fuel and timing)(compensate meaning maintaining an idle, it has no other idea of anything really) and because you have so much fuel, when anti-stall hits it overfuels, so it cuts fuel, rpms fall too much, add fuel, repeat ad infinitum.. now add two accessories that are adding a load to that and it just gets worse. Just a thought, how much did you fix or replace with the ac system? If you replaced the compressor, a fair portion of them I believe ship with oil in them already. Then, if you added 7oz on top of that you have way too much oil in the system. Did a heater box and ac system rebuild and dash swap on my brothers truck a few months ago. That's how the compressor was. he still hasn't gotten it charged yet either so we still don't know if anything has a leak or something. Is this the normal sound of your truck, or similar at least?

@Mopar1973Man, I don't think he used the Walmart cans..

The dragonfire vp44, 6x18s, and .093 lines and tubes probably have something to do with it.. those are 300hp injectors.. and the larger lines and tubes slow down the injection timing. Not saying the only reason but its definitely not helping

Now that would be something. 28 years old, single but a doggy dad, no reliance on the medical/health benefits. If I liked the job this is a situation i would be in minus the wife losing her job and the kids. Sorry to hear that dieselfuture, and best of luck to you and your family. The retirement package they have set up for every employee is a bit nuts. After 7 of 9 years later and i have low 6 figures already in an account i cant touch until im 55-65.. And every employee has the same type of account. I can move that money if i leave so thats taken care of. Mostly i think my hang up is my health insurance, finding something close is probably a lesson in futility.. Aint that the truth.. (see photo) Im gonna keep pressing on with this path, see where it takes me. Still in the first steps but thats where the journey starts doesnt it.

Morning all, I've come to a point in life where I am in need of a change. A bit of background on me: I'm 28, and have had 2 jobs since graduating high school. First was a gas station attendant for a year and a half-ish, the second and current job is as a drafter/draftsman for a well regarded company in my area, going on my 9th year. The company is for the most part excellent, trying not to brag too much but just putting all the info out there: I pay $14 a month for health insurance including vision. I've had coworkers receive no bill for having kids, the company paid for it. I've also got a large sum of money that is set up by the company for retirement. I cant put money into it, however. I also make a touch over $22.50/hr. (started at $18/hr) Now for the bad, I went to a technical high school for drafting, I had a passion for drawing cars and thought it would have been a good fit. Whelp, got into the field and turns out I cant stand the job anymore. Its all the same thing day in and day out. I've tried asking to be moved but that was met with a wall. I've come to realize that I have a knack for fixing vehicles. And it turns out that a semi local diesel/high performance shop has an opening. they are offering insurance, training/performance incentives, paid time off, and holiday pay. They also put on dyno days with their in house dyno. My only hang up is that I have only "shade tree" experience. All of my experience is my own vehicle or family vehicles. but I've been working on them since I was 17. The job posting isn't requiring an ASE cert or anything. they are offering $15-30/hr based on experience. I'm looking for some outside thoughts on if this is a fools errand to follow through on. In benefits I know I'm giving up quite a bit, but when every day feels like an 8 hour wait to go home, and the thought of going to work is actually causing stomach knots, I'd say its time to head elsewhere. Open to all thoughts, and thanks in advance.

Was about to. Turns out my tablet might have just died. It was an Onn brand 10.1 inch android tablet that came with a keyboard case. In my rush this morning I think I put the tablet on the pins for the keyboard case backwards (why they made it mirrored idk, some way to keep that from happening would have been great). Might have done something.. It was on charge all night and when I press and hold the power button, I don't get anything. No dead battery symbol, no turn on splash screen, nothing. Luckily not many tunes on Quadzilla and the tablet was mostly used for that. TBH, I was starting to get really unhappy with it, took legit forever to charge and would only last a few hours at most from full charge without being plugged in.

So Saturday, 06/12, I had a sled pull and when I got back to my spot off the track and in the pits, I exported the data log to google drive. When I got home I checked the csv file in google drive and am greeted with all of the column titles but no data. I was using the mobile hot spot on my phone since the tablet I'm using has no cellular connectivity. I've done this before with success so I don't know why this would be an issue. I did clear the old data before the run. Don't know if there is a delay on clearing everything out or something. Does turning the tablet off affect the data logs? I know there isn't a way to get the data back, I'm just hoping I still have the ability to export the logs or stumble onto a bug or something.

I did not need to do that on my 1500, but it didn't have security.. Just plug and play..