jumpjg

I did both a gauge & warning light. This is what I used for a gauge http://cgi.ebay.com/NOSHOK-2-5-Dial-...item5631ec7122 No problem with the transaction - square deal with fast shipping. The gauge has a stainless case, it is liquid filled (extended service life and reliability where pulsation, vibration and shock are present), and accuracy is ±1.5% Full Scale, ASME Grade A. Installed the Weatherhead needle valve into the filter head, feeds into a tee; gauge pressure line to one port, Kohler engine oil pressure switch (NAPA SME 2509927S) to the remaining port to activate a low pressure warning light. Used a nylon oil pressure gauge tube kit from Advance Auto Parts, and a brass 1/8"male pipe to 1/4" female street elbo to hook up to the back of the gauge. I used the cap from a black Rustoleum spray bomb as a gauge holder. Mounted the gauge on top of the dash against the L/H windshield pillar, held in place with a dab of hot melt glue on the pillar & one on the dash. A small piece of sheet metal glued onto the spray bomb cap holds the warning light. It all works just fine. The gauge is not backlit, but the warning light will illuminate if pressure goes below 5 psi. Look good, last long time! Joe in St Louis

Thanks for the explanation, Mike. So the fuel pump is not tied into anything controlling the grids/WTS light - makes sense. I was not aware of a battery temp sensor; where is that located, in the battery tray(s)? Sounds like a tough environment.

Strange symptoms with my truck too. This morning the ambient was 34 deg F when I got into my truck - been sitting overnight. Key on, no fuel pump pulse nor wait-to-start light for about 5 seconds, then the light came on & pump pulsed for about one second. The light stayed on for about 20 seconds then went out; truck started right up, fuel pump turned on & stayed on upon start-up. After pulling away from home a block or two the grid heaters had quit cycling. About a mile into my drive I shut the truck down & re-started about 15 seconds later (Ultra-Gauge reset). Key on and no pulse from the FP & no wait-to-start light; truck started right up. At this point the coolant temp was about 100-110 F, but after restart the grid heaters started to cycle again. I would have expected the heaters to stay off line. The other day I had taken a short drive but the weather was warmer & coolant temps were up to 180-190. Same thing; shut the truck down & restarted within a few minutes & the grid heaters were cycling. Hard to establish any pattern. I noticed with my Juice w/ Attitude that I can monitor fuel temp, I presume at the VP. Wonder if that parameter plays into the grid heaters being turned on. This morning it was reading 34 at start-up & got up to 79 after a 17 mile drive city/highway. Fuel pressure came up 0.5 to 1 psi over the drive. I will continue to monitor but won't take any action (like replacing the ECM) until it prevents reliable operation - keeping my fingers crossed. Joe in St Louis

I do not believe a motor would overload if the supply of fuel to it were restricted; actually I think the load would be less since the pump isn't doing any work (put your hand over the end of the hose on your vacuum cleaner & the rpm goes up). I've been reading a lot about aftermarket fuel pumps lately in old post on various forums. A number of posts talk about blowing fuses on their FASS systems. Some say that their fuse-blowing problem was caused by a bad shaft seal allowing fuel to get into the motor case. FASS now advertizes that they have super whis-bang shaft seals. This may have been a problem that was isolated to an earlier production run. I don't have any proof either way that this might be causing your problem, but maybe it will help you. Good Luck! Joe in St Louis

I'm having similar problems. On a cold motor it may take 10-15 seconds after the ignition key is turned on for my lift pump to give the 5 second pulse. Sometimes it closer to the normal operating scenario but still delayed. Most times on a hot motor it won' give any pulse at all but starts easily. Normally I can get the 25 second pulse with a starter bump. Wonder if the low voltage at the pump is caused by the "reduced duty cycle during cranking" we discussed here a while back? Was that the battery side of the relay or the fuel pump side? If the latter I'd be checking connections from the relay to the pump or be looking for a high resistance through the relay. I'll have to give that a try on my truck to see if it clears up the problem - thanks for the clue! Joe in St Louis

Thanks for all your help guys. Your experience gives me the confidence to go on. Without your help I'd rather do the valve adjustment on a twin cam 8 valve desmo than disconnect the batteries on my truck.:lol:Joe in St louis

Thanks for all the quick replies. Just to clarify, I WILL have to reset the APPS/TPS using your procedure, or I MAY have to? If the latter, what is the indication that it needs to be done? Should I expect to see a CEL? Do I really need to disconnect the batteries or could I hook everything up before installing the fuses? I'm asking all these questions because I believe the computers are the most fragile part of these trucks & I don't trust all will be well if I disconnect the batteries. Maybe I just need to get over it - God hates a coward! Thanks for your help, Joe in St Louis

OK, I have all the bits together to install my 2nd hand Juice w Attitude. First step in the instructions is to disconnect the batteries (remove both neg terminals). I'm a bit spooked to do that - am I going to wipe out programs in my ECM/PCM? Will I have to reprogram the throttle position sensor? Will my auto trans start to do flaky things after I reconnect the batteries? Or will it be like most other vehicles, no big deal, no worries.Sorry for the stupid question, just want to be prepared. Thanks for your patience.Joe in St Louis

Called up Edge & ordered the boost Elbow. They say it just has an orifice so I guess it slows down the response of the waste gate - seems to me you would want to raise the pressure at which the waste gate opens instead of just delaying it. May find that its just right. Figure it is a good place to start.Thanks for the help!Joe in St Louis

ISX, Thanks for your reply (JLWelding too). I have a few more questions regarding your response. OK, So the boost elbow vents to atmospheric, thereby reducing the pressure available at the waste gate actuator and tricking the actuator into thinking that the boost pressure is less than it really is. Is that the way it works? I think that the elbow would allow the turbo to generate more boost pressure but the MAP is monitoring the boost pressure, so if you don't have some sort of boost fooler in series with the MAP the ECU will defuel & set a code no matter how well you have tricked the waste gate actuator. At least that is the way I understand it Yes, the Juice with Attitude has features which allow you to set a boost limit and multiple alarms. From a discussion I read on the forum last winter it sounded like installation of a J-hook was a bit difficult due to poor access. Seems to me the waste gate could be disabled easier by disconnecting & plugging the elbow port on the compressor & plugging the waste gate actuator hose. See any problem with that approach? Anyone else, please feel free to pipe up. Appreciate your patience! Joe in St Louis

I recently picked up a Juice with Attitude 2nd hand. It came with everyting except the boost elbow. Not too sure what the elbow is supposed to do. I understand it is an orifice, but in a closed system that will only slow down flow, not limit pressure. I was figuring the concept was to keep the waste gate closed, allowing the boost pressure to rise. I was wondering if I could substitute a J-hook (local fab) for a boost elbow, or should I get a new part from Edge? If a J-Hook is adequate, why not remove the OEM elbow and plug the port in the compressor housing and the hose running to the actuator?Appreciate your time,Joe in St Louis

Mike, Thanks for the video. Never saw that on my gauge, but then I never have cranked mine over with the relay removed. Once I get a pulse from the fuel transfer pump, it starts instantly like your truck. It is just that sometimes I don't get any power to the pump unless I bump the starter. Other times it gets a quick pulse as soon as the key is turned on, or it may take 5 seconds or so before it pulses. No real pattern I can discern.Joe in St Louis

Don't follow what you mean by 50% duty cycle. I would get a 2 second pulse, then pump would turn off until engine started. If I bumped the starter the pump would run for 25 seconds then shut off, but it would start fine anytime during the 25 second run. How is "duty cycle" modulated on the big pumps like Airdog, FASS, Raptor, etc. that are wired through a relay?

I have a '99 that has a similar problem. I purchased the truck last November & at first my pump powered up as normal; ~2 second pulse as soon as key was turned on, 25 second run time if starter is bumped. At sometime during this past winter it changed to no discernible pattern. Occasionally I'll get the pulse as soon as the key is turned, but not often. Most the time if I wait like you (~25 sec) it will pulse. Sometimes it won't pulse unless I bump the starter. I've tried starting the truck without waiting for the lift pump to turn on; a cold engine won't start but if I had recently shut it down (like at a fuel fill-up) it will start without transfer fuel pump pressure. As soon as the engine starts the transfer pump stays on-line and performs as normal. I suspect that the problem is a glitch in the ECM and perhaps could be sorted with a "re-flash" from a dealer. Keeping my fingers crossed that it doesn't leave me stranded.Joe in St Louis

Yes, the Vulcan Draw Straw I replaces the stock steel fitting on top of the module. It has an anodized aluminum head equipped with barbed fitting on it's base that fits into the OEM grommet that sealed the steel fitting. The DS has 3 ports: one 1/2" suction & two 1/4" returns. I found that the head was not real snug in the grommet, so I fitted an o-ring between the barb & the grommet on the underside of the module top to tighten things up. I had pics in my write up but they vanished after some server event a couple weeks ago & I can't post pics back into this thread. I'll try to post them in a new thread.

After I installed the new Draw Straw & Transfer Pump Big Line Relocation Kit I took a test drive & found my fuel pressure had dropped dramatically from where it was before I did the work. I figured was either a problem was either a restriction between the tank & the pump, a bad pump, or that previously I was getting a false reading on my FP gauge due to restrictions caused by the OEM fuel line/fittings between the fuel filter & the injection pump. After much moaning & gnashing of teeth I decided to drop the tank & rework the hoses & Draw Straw installation. If that didn't fix it I figured the problem was with the pump.I dropped the tank a second time & pulled the module. I didn't really find anything out of order with the straw & the basket, but I removed the float from the lower chamber & cut the end of the straw at an angle.[ATTACH=CONFIG]2876[/ATTACH]This pic shows the module inverted & with the lower strainer removed. You can see the suction end of the straw with it's end cut at an angle.[ATTACH=CONFIG]2866[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]2877[/ATTACH]I had a pile of this tough nylon anti-chafe sheathing I'll call "snake skin" which I found in a dumpster about 15 years ago. I installed over all the hose. Note the third port on the Draw Straw head which I have plugged. An AD II would use this port as the return to the tank.[ATTACH=CONFIG]2867[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]2868[/ATTACH]These pics show an external support bracket I made up to prevent the Draw Straw from rotating during tank installation. Adel clamps sourced from the 20 year jar, left-overs from my Sabreliner mechanic days.I got a new piece of 3/8" Parker Superflex hose from Vulcan so I could remove the jury rig I had tried in the first installation. [ATTACH=CONFIG]2869[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]2870[/ATTACH]The picture on the left was taken just prior to installing the tank the 2nd time. It shows the new suction hose from the tank to the pump, supported under the frame rail by zip ties. The snake skin has a smooth surface and easily slid through the zip ties when jacking the tank into position to take up the extra slack. When the tank was installed I pulled up the slack & connected the other end to the transfer pump. The return hose on the right ended up kinking when the tank was up in position (see pic on right) so I ended up cutting the rigid return line just to the right of the frame support clip. With the return hose clamped on in the new position there was no kink and all is well.After everything was buttoned up I took another test ride - no improvement. Fuel pressure was still dropping below 12psi in town, and falling away to 5 with WOT. Bummer. Next step was a new pump. Bummer. Then it dawned on me - I purchased my pump at my friendly neighborhood Advance Auto Parts last Thanksgiving, and it came with a 1 year warranty. I called them up, they had one in stock, and would honor the warranty. I removed the old pump & they swapped it for a new one, free of charge. Schweet! Now pressures are holding 18 psi at idle, 15+ psi in town & at cruise on the highway. Schweet! It will drop down to 13.5 at WOT, but that is something I can easily avoid. Can't afford to fill the tank yet, but I'm pretty confident the Draw Straw is adequately sealed to the module lid so I shouldn't have a problem.Why did the pump go bad? Must have sucked up some swarf on initial start up after the mod. Why are the pressures slightly lower than before the pump relocation? Must be the result of less restriction between the filter (where my FP gauge is tapped) & the injection pump. I'm not worried about it - fuel flow cools the pump, not pressure.Sorry for the long story. Hope it helps someone else.Joe in St Louis

Going rate in St Louis today is $3.75 for diesel, spotted as low as $3.64. Regular unleaded going rate is $3.49, spotted as low as $3.43. Sure hope it keeps falling!

Sorry for the late response - been tied up for the last 10 days.[ATTACH=CONFIG]2873[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]2875[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]2874[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]2847[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]2848[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]2849[/ATTACH]This is my fuel module removed, the source of my fuel tank leak, and the module guts exposed when the basket is removed. Click on the pics for a larger view.[ATTACH=CONFIG]2850[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]2851[/ATTACH]These pics show the new Draw Straw I installed into the lid & how the nylon straw was reshaped (using heat gun) so it would be centered in the basket. The anodized head has a barb machined into it so that installation is just a press fit into the OEM grommet. The nylon straw is very rigid & tight onto the anodized head. It took quite a bit off heat before it would yield to an S-bend. No reasonable amount of force could cause it to collapse.[ATTACH=CONFIG]2852[/ATTACH]This shot is looking under the lid of the module where the Draw Straw passes through inside the tank. The fit of the head into the grommet was on the loose side. It could slide up & down about 1/16" - 3/32", and its fit in the grommet could have been tighter for my liking. I was able to stretch a nitrile o-ring over the base of the head & stuff it in between the barb & the grommet which tightened things up both axially & laterally.[ATTACH=CONFIG]2853[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]2854[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]2856[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]2855[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]2857[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]2858[/ATTACH]These pictures show how the guts of the module were modified to work with the large diameter straw, and how the basket was modified with a larger central hole (for the straw), two holes on either side of the center one (to allow fuel in the basket to flow down into the lower chamber where the straw end is located), and holes in the sides of the basket as recommended by Vulcan. Note that fuel migrating from the basket to the lower chamber has to pass through the red circular strainer on the bottom of the straw. The strainer is a push fit into the bottom of the basket, and the lower bushing on the straw is a tight fit between the straw & the strainer - no fuel can pass between these joints.[ATTACH=CONFIG]2861[/ATTACH]This shows the Airtex transfer pump relocated from the OEM location on the engine to the inboard side of the left frame rail, just forward of the fuel tank. All fittings, hose, pump mounting bracket, and harness extension were included in the Vulcan Pump Relocation Kit. The rubber stand-offs I pulled out of my "20 year jar". Very quiet operation.[ATTACH=CONFIG]2859[/ATTACH]I replaced the OEM nylon supply & return lines at the tank with good quality Parker hose supplied by Vulcan. I left them long to facilitate easy installation.[ATTACH=CONFIG]2860[/ATTACH]Here is the top of the tank after installation. You can see the excess length on the hoses found a natural curve, but caused the head of the Draw Straw to rotate 45-60 deg. ccw. This rotation caused the straw to rotate inside the basket due to its tight fit onto the head. I thought this might have screwed something up between the straw & the basket, contributing to the lower fuel pressures I was seeing after installation.To be continued...Joe in St Louis

I don't have an Air Dog but I've studied it and all the tank pick-up stuff lately. I'll give your questions a try. #1 with the ad pumpimg straight into a fuel can does it return any fuel to the tank? thought that could be a source for the air since possibly nothing is going back into the basket. Not sure. There probably is some going back, but certainly not the full flow of the AD pump. if you dead-headed the flow out of the hose into the can, all the fuel the AD is pumping would return to the tank. What ever amount was coming out of your hose into the fuel can was having to be supplied by the tank through the basket. If the AD return is through a tee installed into the filler neck line, it may take some time for the fuel to get back to the basket. With a low tank it could lead to pump cavitation. #2 how much fuel does the engine return to the basket? this is another source for air since it returns no fuel if the engine is not running. If the engine is not running while the AD is pumping, a small portion of the flow is returning from the engine. If the engine is running there is a significant flow returning from the engine. MoparMan has a video of it here (http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/fuel-pressure/fuel-pressure.htm). Since the AD is a positive displacement pump, it has to go somewhere; either to the VP or back to the tank from the AD return through the filler neck tee. The flow to the VP either gets sent to the injectors or back to the tank. Hope this helps, Joe in St Louis

Had some rodent combat last night, though not truck related. It was a warm day yesterday & we has the central air running. One time as the system cycled on I heard a terrible racket coming from the compressor assembly, sounded like the condenser fan was hitting the coils. I went out with a flashlight to inspect - the noise stopped just as I was going out. All looked & sounded normal. This morning I took another look & found the remains of two mice hung up in the fan guard - it wasn't a pretty sight. Actually it didn't bother me at all because I hate those rat b@$tards!Condenser 2; Mice 0Joe in St Louis

Diesel in St Louis area is down to $3.79, $0.10 less than regular gasoline.Joe in St Louis

I don't have my pictures downloaded yet, but I came across these photos from a fellow on the TDR who installed one in his truck. Good write-up. http://www.turbodieselregister.com/user_gallery/displayalbum.php?userid=8327&albumid=18623 It should be noted that there are a number of different configurations of the module out there - I think I've seen about 3 so far. This fellow's module is identical to mine. His truck is a '99, just like mine. In the 11th picture you will see the fitting that was rusted out on my unit that caused the leak - looks like he was having the same problem. The 15th picture is looking into the bottom half of the module (basket) with all of the guts removed - see last picture for the guts. OEM basket has only the one hole in the center. Vulcan instructs to open up the center hole for the pick-up tube of the draw straw to pass through & drill the 2 extra holes on either side to facilitate quick return flow from the basket down to where the pick-up tube terminates - he's already drilled the holes. Vulcan recommends cutting the end of the pick-up tube at an angle. All of the removed components in the last picture were designed to remove as much fuel out of the tank as possible without cavitating the pump. The gray stem plugs into the red strainer assembly shown at the bottom right of the picture; the end opposite the black suction line fits into the strainer. The strainer fits snugly inside the bottom of the basket. The oval bracket supports the stem at the suction line end to keep it centered in the basket & plugged into the strainer. The brown circular part pictured below the stem is a float which is housed inside of the red strainer basket on the bottom (shown in the 12th picture), forming the lower chamber of the module. I have found no detailed principal of operation for the module, but the following is the way it seems to be designed. The system pick-up point is at the bottom of the gray stem inside the basket, not in the lower chamber where the float is located. The strainer connected to the stem is to strain the fuel that flows down from inside the basket into the fuel pick-up (end of the stem). Fuel in the basket is replenished by the return flow from the injection pump/injectors & what spills into the basket at higher fuel levels. Fuel can also be drawn past the strainer basket into the lower chamber, up through a port in the center of the float & up into the bottom of the basket. At very low fuel levels the float acts like a skimmer. It rides on top of the fuel, allowing fuel to be drawn from a large area & prevents air from being drawn into the bottom of the basket. I'll have to trust that this design was effective even if it is not intuitively obvious. Vulcan's solution (removing the guts) basically eliminates any in-tank straining capabilities of the OEM design. They recommend the installation of an external 140 micron strainer in the supply line prior to the fuel pump. Their solution also eliminates the low tank skimming function of the OEM design for whatever that was worth. Vulcan's solution is not to run the tank below 1/4 -1/8 full. Kind of reminds me of the old joke "Doc, it hurts when I do this", and the reply "Well, don't do that!". The installation instructions state to put the straw through the center hole of the basket. When installed into the lid of the module the head of the draw straw is not centered over the basket, so the straw goes down at an angle. Since the straw is a rigid nylon tube , this angle tilts the head of the Draw Straw, preventing it from sitting flush on the grommet. I saw this as a possible problem leading to a leak, especially since the head was not a tight fit into the grommet. Confident that I knew a better way, this is where my BOMB began. Unfortunately I did not realize Vulcan recommended an external strainer until I read the installation instructions, after the parts were delivered. So I decided to make changes to the draw straw installation so I could retain the OEM return strainer. I used a heat gun to make the straw flexible so that I could put an S curve in it to align with the hole in the bottom of the basket. I cut off the ends of the gray stem, bored them to fit snug over the straw to be used as bushings, and used a piece of 3/4" copper as a spacer between the bushings. I refitted the red strainer into the bottom of the basket, passed the straw through the strainer, seated the lower bushing into the strainer, slid the oval bracket over the top bushing & secured it into the basket. All these mods mimicked the OEM design with the exception that the straw extended into the bottom chamber of the module. I wanted to retain some of the skimming function of the float in the lower chamber. I bored out the port in the center of the float to fit snugly over the end of the draw straw; once pushed onto the straw it would not move. Instead of cutting off the end of the straw at an angle I left it square, but cut four semi-circular arches through the side and at the end of the tube. I made these arches about 1/4" in diameter, figuring they would flow plenty of fuel to keep up with my Airtex pump. The decision to retain the float may be the source of my current fuel pressure problems. As described in my last message, the draw straw rotated in the tank module lid as I was lifting the tank into position on the chassis. Since the straw is now S-shaped it's possible that rotating the draw straw caused the float to fall off & block the end of the straw, causing a restriction. My plan is to drop the tank, remove the module & inspect. I'll report back when I make some progress.

This past Saturday I installed the pump relocation kit & the Draw Straw I. The parts showed up on Friday afternoon. I called Vulcan because there were lots of questions that could not be answered by the instructions. There was adequate hose in the kit to relocate the pump as per the installation instructions, but I also wanted to run a hose from the Draw Straw to the inlet of the fuel pump. Since there wasn't enough hose to do this I improvised as follows;1) I cut a 15" piece of hose & made up the section between the filter outlet to the injection pump as per the Big Line Pump Relocation System instructions using the supplied adapters & Push-Lock fittings. I left the fuel pressure gauge tap installed where it was in the filter lid.2) I cut a 30"-36" piece of hose & made up a section to install between the filter & the forward end of the OEM steel supply line. I used the supplied adapter & Push-Lock elbow at the filter inlet. I cut off the OEM hose from the end of the supply line and I slid the new hose over the steel supply line, securing with a hose clamp.3) I installed the mounting bracket & fuel pump onto the inboard side of the frame rail as per the instructions. I cut the OEM steel supply line in two places (before & after the pump) and used two sections of hose (1 foot each) to connect the pump inlet & discharge to the steel line. I used the supplied fittings for the pump connections & used hose clamps to secure the hoses to the steel line.4) I removed the OEM supply & return hoses that were installed between the fuel tank module & the steel lines. I replaced them with 18" sections of hose to facilitate easy hook-up while the tank was on the ground. Please realize I'm doing this in the driveway with the rear of the truck jacked up, rear wheels about 10" off the ground to allow enough clearance to pull the tank out from under the truck - less than ideal conditions. The hoses I installed are much longer than the OEM ones but I didn't think it would cause a problem. At the Draw Straw head I used the included 3/8" MPT x 3/8" hose Push-Lock fitting on the suction port & a standard 1/4" MPT x 5/16" hose barb with clamp on the return.. The secondary return port was sealed with the included 1/4" plug.I installed the tank, poured in some fuel, bled the air out of the system at the filter inlet, then did two bump cycles to prime the injection pump - it started right up. I noticed that fuel pressure seemed a bit higher, showing 20 psi with engine not running & 17+ at idle - all looked well. But when I took the truck for a test ride I noticed the fuel pressure dropping significantly; easily dropping to 12 psi in town and down to 5 psi when applying WOT while at 60 mph cruise. This is with about 10-12 gallons of fuel in the tank. Prior to the pump relocation work I was seeing 16 psi at idle and a low of about 14.5 psi in all driving conditions. In March of this year I hauled a 10k 5th wheel for about 120 miles on the interstate through the Flint Hills & never saw the fuel pressure drop below 14. I've been doing some research and is appears these symptoms indicate that there is a restriction somewhere between the fuel tank pick-up & the pump. This seems somewhat strange to me because it looked as though fuel was flowing very well when I was bleeding air out of the system from the filter outlet into a bucket. Interesting to note that when I was bleeding the system the rear of the truck was still up on jack stands and I had only poured in about 7 gallons of fuel, indicating that the fuel pick-up was working well. But since pressures were fine before the relocation a restriction seems like the logical problem. Another possibility is perhaps the old filter-to-injection pump set-up was restricting fuel flow enough to give a false fuel pressure indication. I was thinking of re-installing the old set-up to see if it returns the previous gauge indications. A restriction may have been caused while raising the tank into position. After I secured the tank to the chassis I reached up to check the routing of the supply & return hoses. Since they are about 12" longer than the OEM hoses they rotated the Draw Straw head around as the tank went up into position. I tried to ensure that there were no kinks in the hoses but I did not get a visual due to lack of access. Since the installed location of the Draw Straw tube is not centered in the fuel tank module, I'm not sure what sort of problem may have resulted from rotating the head.With regard to the Draw Straw I, it sure seemed a little loose when installed into the lid of the fuel tank module. I put some liquid hand soap on the barb & it pushed into the grommet pretty easily. I'm concerned that fuel will seep out between the head of the Draw Straw & the grommet. That would be a huge disappointment seeing that the problem I was trying to eliminate in the first place was a leak at the module caused by a rusted out fuel tube assembly. Suspecting there is a restriction between the tank & the lift pump, I plan on dropping the tank again. I will remove the module & inspect to ensure there is no problem with the fuel pick-up. I may try to devise some sort of clamp arrangement between the tank vent & the supply line to prevent the Draw Straw head from rotating during installation. I'd like to convert the existing kluge to a single section of hose between the Draw Straw & the fuel transfer pump , possibly increasing the diameter from 3/8" to 1/2".I'll keep you posted.Joe in St Louis

Moostang, I doubt you would have both an in-tank pump & a block-mounted pump. The dealer fix for a failed block-mounted pump was to install a new module in the fuel tank that had the in-tank pump. From all accounts it was an unsatisfactory fix. I'm inside my tank right now to fix a leak at the top of the in tank fuel module (http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/4049-Fixing-Fuel-Tank-Leak). My truck is a '99 like yours, and the module is much different than the one pictured earlier in this thread. I have taken some pictures but I haven't had a chance to download them from my camera - try to get that done soon. I have ordered a Draw Straw 1 as recommended by Vulcan Performance along with a big line kit (3/8"). Last fall I replaced the OEM Carter fuel pump with an Airtex unit, mounting it in the OEM location. With the big line kit comes all the hardware & electrical harness to move the mounting location of my Airtex down onto the frame next to the tank. The Draw Straw 1 will plug into the top of the existing tank module, keeping the fuel pick-up & return in the basket. Expecting delivery of the parts late on Friday. I'll update the Fixing the Fuel Tank Leak thread in the next couple days. Joe in St Louis

That's the dope I needed; nothin' simple about that!Now that I think about it, I think I'll keep what I have.:)Thanks for your time!Joe in St Louis