ISX

Those things throw everybody for a loop, especially that god forsaken IOD fuse At least you got it all working again

If the plug is questionable just put your meter on ohms and go from the fuse to the center of the outlet (positive part). Make sure not to touch the sides of the outlet while touching the center. You should get 0 ohms or close to it. Try both fuse slots since obviously there is no way to know which one goes to the outlet. Then you will know if you got a connector issue or not.

Well I am not too concerned about flying apaches, any helicopter works for me. Though I did have particular interest in the commanche Guess that program fell through though.

Are you kidding me! I will have to go talk to them then. The air force base with all but 1 of the b2 bombers is like a half hour away from me. The b2's and apaches and everything all circle my house every day. I was just telling Mike I could hit the helicopters with a rock if I threw it from the top of my house.

Not sure how to do that without paying for it or something. All the army/navy/etc. said I couldn't fly unless I had a 4 year degree in something. Of course I learn this after I am almost done with the 2 year college.

Danggg your lucky. I'm 20.

Do you have 2 power outlets like me? I have a fuse for each one, so maybe you checked the fuse for the other outlet.

I've been wondering about that ever since you came here. Do you fly those things or work on them or what? We got those flying over our house all the time, I swear we are on the most wanted list. B2 bomber is flying over us constantly too. I did a lot of reading on helicopters before figuring out it was probably too late for me to get into it. But I saw your avatar and I knew the AH64 was an apache so I've always been curious about you lol.

Of course! I actually just made a video of how to do your valves the easy way and my hard drive is completely topped off. I got storage all over the house though so I gotta do some swapping around. For now, this is the only video of it that I could find. http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=B1VwWGzbOq0

From what I can tell, it can monitor anything that has a sensor. You just wire the sensor into it. The only bad thing is it can only do one at a time and the only way to switch is by rewiring it. At least I think thats how it works. I was thinking about putting in some relays so I could easily flip a switch and be on a different sensor. It sent USPS yesterday so hopefully it comes by Friday.

Well they really don't go bad very often but like that one was bad brand new because the internal part of the terminal was touching. The wire that comes off that coil is also hair thin so it can break easy. The terminals can get corroded inside (its not exactly water tight). So basically just being in the elements or having a rough (bumpy) life.

Expanding on what Mike just said, here is a pic of the side of the relay. So now you can compare what he said to the picture and you can figure out how the schematic is layed out. You can see that they are showing it with the coil not energized. When it energizes, it switches to 87.For an example, to wire up my isolated grid heaters and be able to charge the battery when the grids are not on, I stuck a positive from the main batteries to 30 and the positive from the deep cycle battery that I use to power the grids is hooked to 87. I ran a negative to 85 and then I ran one of the grid heater wires back to 86, so when the grids turn on, the coil of the relay energizes and disconnects the deep cycle from the main batteries. I have nothing on 87a.

I know a couple guys on here don't understand how these things work so one of the ones I got was crap so I took it apart to show you guys how they worked. A positive and negative energize that big coil and it produces a magnet that pulls that contact in so it contacts the other terminal, then springs back when you turn off power to the coil.

I don't think so. I know the auto's have that cooler thing under the exhaust manifold. Other than that I can't tell a difference.

Probably be able to get a cheap replica or something lol. The thing I hate the most is how new cars don't have the same materials as that shelby or anything from the old days. The seat was more like this snakeskin crap and the floor carpet was extremely durable and weird but insanely awesome. It had 2 gauges on the floor for something, can't remember. The seat belts were behind your head and pulled down over in front of you like some kinda kids carseat, and allll of that was stock. Nowadays you get a car with a hemi in it or something and a glorified 6spd and thats about it. Maybe a hemi logo in the headrest. But I can get the V6 version and do some upgrading and have the same car. The only new car I have ever really wanted was the 2003-4 mach 1 mustang. I have riden in them and the same year cobra that was supercharged and the cobra was fast but it had no real noise to it. It was just a mustang GT with a blower on it. The mach 1 is refined, it has everything to be a bat out of hell and I think it has more than the same year cobra minus the supercharger. I read about people putting a supercharger on them and they could smoke a cobra. The mach 1 also sounds like it has something to prove, it is throaty as hell and has that cam lope sound to it. The cobra has nothing but that supercharger whine that I could beat with a gatorback serpentine belt.

I just threw a number up there, I don't know any big tire sizes that dont use the standard way of doing it. You finally got it paid off? Now you are probably planning a trip to vegas

I think I have heard of that happening too. I just happen to always be right next to a parking lot with one way out so I let them block the entrance

My dad sold this for $13k 8 years ago. Don't ask me why he sold it for only that 1967 GT350 He bought it for $1000 way back then.So go buy it back John!

So the fuses are good, that just leaves the relays. Just get a jumper wire and stick one end on a positive of the battery or fuse box lead and the other on one of the relay coil terminals, leave the key off. It should make the relay click. If it clicks, check for 12V on the grid heater side of the relay to see if it is actually switching the power. Should be if it clicks but never know. To test the ECM, just ground one lead to something and put it on 12V dc and leave everything hooked up and just touch the other lead to the coil wires, you can just touch the little 3/8" nut since it isn't covered by the wire cap. Turn the key on and the green should change to positive 12V. If not, do it again but try the other wire, might be reversed on yours or something. If nothing changes to positive...your cursed. I will make a video on this in a couple hours for you. --- Update to the previous post... Here you go http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=oM_jlieIgqY You can also just ground one lead and stick the other on the wire by the grid heater, then you know for sure it is either on or off if it says 12v or not when the relay energizes.

Been pulled over 3 times, coulda got a CNI for one, I was nice, they were nice, I have yet to ever get a ticket. One thing I always do is pull into a parking lot, done it all 3 times. I think it's BS when people pull off to the side of the road if there is a parking lot a block away. There are a million videos on those cop tv shows showing the cop car getting smashed by another guy driving while the cop is talking to the guy he pulled over.

After reading nothing but good reviews about it I went ahead and got it. Your thinking right along the lines of my thinking when it comes to mounting it. It is only 15/16" x 1 15/16" so that would fit perfectly where my ashtray is. I won't put anything on the pillar either, it is big enough as it is lol. There were 2 versions of it, the one I linked was the more limited version (1813) and the other one has more versatility (1812) and since I will end up playing with a million sensors I figured I better get the fancier one. Fancier one was $30 more but since it can display the readings of any sensor on anything I figure it will be well worth it. It ended up at $90 with shipping, which is still cheaper than what my EGT gauge was :banghead:

Added a few more things.

I had the same experience with the M/S tires. Those things last forever.

Finally got that damn thing from sucking down my main batteries. I had a good deep cycle laying around so I threw it in (yeah so I have 5 batteries now ) and took the grid heater positive wire and wired it directly to the deep cycle. I put a relay in and hooked it up so that when it is normally closed (not energized) it closes the path of the positive from the main batteries to a wire for the deep cycle positive, that way it will charge any time the grid heater is not on. When the grid heater turns on, it also energizes the relay and opens the charging path so that the battery is connected to the grids and nothing else. After the grids turn off, the relay turns off and it is back to charging the battery. The alternator has a greatly reduced load on it and your lights won't dim or any of that crap. My wires are not as big as they should be so that is why it takes a little bit for the deep cycle to match the main batteries. In the picture, the 2 black wires are the charging wires (from a main battery positive going to the deep cylce positive) the yellow goes to the grid heater to energize the coil, and the blue wire is the negative for the coil. The contacts were a little too close for my liking, thats why I padded all the wires with electrical tape. The little grid heater wires actually didn't have the power to turn the relay on. I kept thinking something was messed up but it just didn't work no matter what. Not really an issue, I just hooked it up to the actual grid heater wire instead (the big ones, on the side that gets switch on and off). So that worked perfect. You can hear the relay switching in the video, pretty neat how it is all automatic like that. Now I don't have to worry about the batteries or alternator and still have the other switch to turn the grids completely off if I want to. http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=osqm0T6JeBQ

That sounds better than what I've been calling it