ISX

Yep, that's all it does. Only side effect is the blinking WTS light. I kinda like it

Everyone seems to know the IAT of a 24V, but I never see anything on a 12V. So I cut the IAT wires, soldered wires to them, ran them into the cab, crimped them onto my multimeter leads, and I was able to read Ohms while driving. I am still working on a calculator to see what temps I am seeing but so far here is what I have personally tested, I just need a way to connect the dots for the calc. I made a video of the test run. Engine wasn't started so I knew that 77F must have been 10kOhm. One thing to note is that the computer was smart enough to know it had no continuity in the IAT wire and the WTS light blinked the entire time the key was on. http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cy2XpWRSvgA You can see that EGT and IAT have no relationship. You can see that air being compressed (BOOST) is what drives the temp up. At then end of the video there is a short clip of me idling after the run. The IAT is going up steadily because the turbo is hardly pushing any air. This allows the air in the intake to slowly swirl around and pick up heat from the engine itself, causing the air to heat up. If you look at the table, you see that 116.5F is 4.1kOhms, so I wasn't getting anywhere near it. Remember, lower resistance means HOTTER temps! --- Update to the previous post... Alright I got everything to temps x5 so I got results from 70-100 in the table now. PITA but I wanted to see exactly where it was. From what I can tell, I maxed out around 95 or so. That was almost to the floor when it got there, but only 18F over ambient. I was up to temp by that time but I still want to see what I get on an actual trip that takes longer than 3 minutes, when everything in the engine bay has got to whatever temp it wants to be at.

I had no idea Topeka was only 150 miles from me. Hmmmmmmm. Might have to make some plans

So it seems like it will turn high idle on or 3cyl any time, and temp. This leads me to believe that the switch in either position runs both the ECT and IAT foolers at the same time. I am not sure Forced High Idle has to have the IAT turned off or what the purpose of that is. I thought Mike turned the ECT fooler off to monitor engine temps but I guess it is IAT fooler he turns off. Nevertheless, it would work, I think, I just don't see why he needs so many fancy relays. I will wire it up and show you how I think he did it. I believe he uses the ECT resistor for both sides of the switch in conjunction with either the 3cyl or high idle resistor. So it fools the IAT and ECT if the switch is flipped in either direction, but uses different idle resistor. --- Update to the previous post... Here is how I think it was wired, though I still think he way overdid the relays. I took it down to the bare minimum. The switch selection on "Other" is exactly the same as this one except the 56k resistor is a 39k one..

I wouldn't skip that chance! I rode in one of those little planes once and it was awesome. Get to see what your house looks like and everything. There's actually a guy here with a little cessna or something like that and he does backflips and side rolls all the time over our house. No clue who he is but I want to ride with him lol.

Been trying to figure it out. No matter how you do it, you end up with half the features of Mike's design. I'd like to figure out exactly what this DPDT switch did and if it had a center off. The fact is, you can only do 2 of the following things with one switch as far as I can tell: [*]Forced High Idle [*]3 Cyl Idle [*]High Idle [*]Ability to turn IAT off and leave ECT on The forced high idle is something you can't do with one switch if you still want 3cyl idle. Not safely anyways. You have to turn the ECT back on so it doesn't end up overheating. I also have no idea why he needed 3. You can do any of the 2 things that he would be able to do with 2 of those DPDT relays. If you can get more info, I could figure out more of what he did. But I think no matter what, the setup is limited in functionality and/or safety features. What good is forced high idle if it will overheat when your not looking..

Only thing is there are hardly any codes. http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/troubleshooting/94_DTC_codes.htm I think he just assumed 1997-1998 12V's were the same, they are not. I can get the codes just like the 1994 trucks. So if you have a code, try the key trick, turn it on then off then on then off then on really fast and wait for the codes. It will end in a 55. I am betting on the IOD fuse though..

What is a "cam"? I don't remember if it killed my gauges or not but I know it killed everything else so look in the fuse panel and check the IOD fuse. It is the lower left one that might have a fuse puller on it. It controls a lot of stuff, kinda a "master" fuse. http://www.mopar1973man.com//isx97/Truck%20Stuff/Ryan's%20Dodge/Interior/Other/Fuse2.jpg http://www.mopar1973man.com//isx97/Truck%20Stuff/Ryan's%20Dodge/Interior/Other/Fuse.jpg

Exactly how the chart is! All fuels would be running exactly the same efficiency and everything.. Obviously real world statistics are not the same. I think gassers like the new 6.0 v8 in chevys can hit 17-18mpg, but then look at the power and we have to start the statistics all over again They just aren't even in the same league. As for hydrogen and electricity, not sure on hydrogen but you can see electricity is comparable to a gallon of diesel (cost for cost). Electricity is made through extremely efficient means, but now how do we transfer that energy to something that moves? Ok we got hybrids, but then we are back to making the power with a gasser or diesel. The efficiency I am talking about is through steam from burning coal and the steam driving turbines. If we could harness their power and use it on the road, we could save hundreds. You have to remember that 6475 BTU per mile for a diesel is also equating the 2/3 lost in the radiator and exhaust which electric motors do not see. So they might actually use 4000BTU per mile.. But unless we have an extension cord from the power company, we are still tethered to gasser or diesel efficiency to charge the batteries. If anyone can get me a price on any other units I could add that in..

Yeah. Everything is based on the BTU per Mile, of a gallon of diesel fuel.. I put in 20MPG and the BTU content of a gallon of diesel is 129,500. So if you take 129,500 divided by 20, you get 6475. This means it took 6475 BTU's to get me 1 mile. I based ALL of the calculations off of that 6475 base. . So to get 17.62 miles for gasoline (the "Miles" column), I used gasoline's BTU content (114,100) and divided it by 6475 to see how many miles I could get out of that BTU content. Since 114,100 is less than 129,500, it is obvious why I went 2.38 miles less. This is also a measure of what every fuel should be getting MPG-wise since it is based on one gallon, hence "miles per gallon". So the gasser with the same efficiency as a 20MPG diesel, should be getting 17.62MPG. Now the "To Equal Diesel" part is how many gallons it would take to MATCH the energy content of a gallon of diesel fuel. So if diesel fuel has 129,500BTU, and gasoline only has 114,100BTU, I would have to use more gas to get the same BTU as diesel fuel. So you take 129,500 and divide it by 114,100 and get 1.13. So I would have to burn 1.13 gallons of gasoline for it to end up at the same BTU content as diesel fuel. All of the numbers use 129,500 as the base index. So if something were to have 150,000BTU per gallon, it would only take 0.86 gallons to match a gallon of diesel. That is how that whole column works. "Cost/Unit" is just how much it is a gallon, so whatever it says on the fuel station sign. "Cost to Equal Diesel" uses the gallons it takes to equal diesel's BTU content, like gasoline uses 1.13 gallons, so you take 1.13 and multiply it by the price of gas $2.742 (national average), and you find out how much you are really paying for the same energy content of a gallon of diesel. So as we can see, even though diesel is more expensive, having to buy more gasoline to get the same BTU as diesel ends up costing you MORE. You can see E85 is very cheap, but when you factor BTU in, you can see how much your REALLY paying for the same amount of energy. "1000 Miles" means how much it costs to go 1000 miles. I took 1000 divided by whatever was in the "Miles" column and that gave me a gallon amount. Gallons multiplied by the fuel's "Unit/Cost" gave me how much it would cost to use that many gallons. Therefore giving me the price of going 1000 miles on each fuel. Got it?

They need to put that in place of the 5cyl in the colorados. Then they would make some money

Alright I updated the first thread. Now you can see prices based on what I can find on averages or around here or from guesswho.

Stumpled upon a huge chart of BTU stuff on wikipedia. So I made it into something neat. BTU/Unit--Means how many BTU are in every unit, as in 1 gallon of the fuel or 1kw of electricity... To Equal Diesel--Means how far you could get on other fuels if they took the same 6475 BTU/mile that my cummins uses. This means a gasser should be getting 17.6MPG if it were the same efficiency. Miles--Means how many miles you could go if it were the same burn rate as I burn diesel. What I did here was took BTU/20[mpg] and got a base number (6475) which tells me it takes 6475 BTU's to go a mile. So then I used that baseline to use against everything else so the base gas 114,000/6475=1.14 Gallons. That means it would take 1.14 Gallons of gas to go a 20 miles if it takes 6475 BTU to go each mile. Cost/Unit--Means cost per unit based on the national averages I could find. (only found them on diesel, e85, reg unleaded, so the rest is from around here or other users). Cost to Equal Diesel--Means the cost of the fuel you will need to be at the BTU content of a gallon of diesel. 1000 Miles--Means the cost it will take to go 1000 miles at the mileage of each fuel and 6475BTU/mile. The kw/h is pretty neat. Means it takes 37.94Kw/Hr to equal a gallon of diesel. At 7 cents a kw/hr or so, that actually ends up being close to what diesel is a gallon. $2.65

If you look real close, you can see my house I need bigger pics so I have something for my background! Then I can get rid of this pic.

Which wires to switch is merely decided on chances of the switch grounding out or safety purposes. Like the switch I drew is with positives, there is chance for it to fray and get grounded on alllllll the things in the truck that are grounded. So you just gotta think about if the positive may end up grounded and spark. So switching the ground would be better since if it frays on the firewall or anything, it won't do anything.

I had to do it Elshadow, this place is so great because everyone wants to learn, rather than just wanting to know the answer. That is what truly separates this forum from the rest IMO.

Trying to make a vid explaining everything on that waveform site. I'll have one up for you by morning.

I can only do the electrical side Anyways, let me know if you don't understand this website and I will post a video. http://www.picoauto.com/tutorials/sensors-actuators.html

Does this help you any?

The 12V things run to the battery. This is just like a carter 3 way, illegal in houses lol. Since you cant turn both relays on at the same time it is perfectly fine, the winch will either run or have 2 negative wires going to it. You can swap the switch positives for negatives and the 2 negatives for positives on the coil if you would rather have switched negatives..

You mean on 3cyl idle the IAT and 56k are in series? Like I said in my notes... I said it would add them up and give you even more resistance since it is 56K + IAT but would give the same effect since it will just read as being even colder. All you are doing is getting under the threshold, I don't see why it would need to be an exact 56K.

Try this one. http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-2nd-gen-all-products/308589-high-idle-fooler-set-up-sale.html#post3253543 Dobienut made it go to advanced reply or something. Dobienut, it's exactly the same. Prowelder has it in the forsale section on this forum now. Works the same and is very clean. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/2184-High-Idle-Fooler-Set-Up-for-Sale!!?p=16517#post16517

I just realized I could use a single pole double throw center off and eliminate a switch, then that would also eliminate people turning both on at once. If both are turned on it would 3cyl idle. It would add the IAT and both resistors so would probably end up saying like -50F lol. But the SPDT would eliminate any issues.Prowelder, I get what your saying. I'd like to make it just to see how much of a mess it ends up being. I do have the wires and sensors so I *could* do it, but it's pointless on mine I might do it though!

There is no way I would put that in the cab. I said it would be best to mount it by the ecm, next to the air filter maybe. I hate wires going in and out of the cab, that's why I did this design to go from 8 wires down to 3. Also made it a little simpler since you don't have to turn the IAT fooler on then pick a idle mode. Wish I could build it and take a pic of the end result. Guess I could but it wouldn't do anything but maybe turn the grids on lol.Yeah I read "box mounted under the dash that contains everything" and figured that must have been the setup you were using. Very clean

I have been looking around at all the million ways you can do this and I came up with another way that seems pretty spiffy. Here's what I have come up with. First off, in the cab you need 3 single pole single throw switches, which are the simplest form of a switch you can get. Here is a pic of one. You install all of those, and hook one side of each switch to a good ground inside the cab. Now run the other side of each switch all outside into the engine bay. One switch will fool the coolant, one switch will turn on high idle, and one will turn on 3 cyl idle. The positive side of each relay is "always on" positive, so you can jumper from one relay to the next. The negative is the switched part. Now you need 3 relays. The ones I found are as common as pocket lint so are $2 a piece. These are the ones you need. http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=330-073&source=googleps Any auto parts store should have them. Alright so the contacts on the relays look like this. Labeled exactly the same. To make the ECT fooler, this is how it is wired. To do the high idle and 3 cyl relays you do it like this. You might think it goes through the IAT sensor and the 56k resistor when you turn it to 3cyl idle, well it does, but as far as I can tell, 56k or more will do the same thing. So the 56k and the IAT sensor resistance will add up, but produce the same effect. This way you should only have 3 wires leaving the cab since you should be jumping ground from a place inside the cab. You put the relays somewhere outside the cab like next to the ECM. So the operation is like this. You hit the ECT switch and now it thinks it is 123F. If you hit the high idle switch it fools IAT into thinking its 28F. If you hit the 3cyl switch it fools it into thinking it is 13F or below since it adds IAT sensor into the equation on that switch. the IAT foolers must only be on separately. If you turn them both on, it will add up all the resistors and do 3cyl. This means there is no IAT fooler switch or high idle mode switch. There is only a switch for high idle that you turn on or off, and a switch for 3cyl which you turn on or off. The relays are wired so that the normally closed position is the stock position, so if the relays mess up, it will be just like stock. It is also good because they don't need any power to be remain closed. Only when they energize do they switch to the resistors. The only long wires you should have are the 3 from the switches and the 1 positive wire. You jumper the positive to the other 2 relays. If you mount the relays by the ECM anyways, that will make a short trip to it and you can even splice into the ECT/IAT wires as they go into the ECM. Operation Cold Engine Start (Coolant <140°F - Outside Temp > 32*F) Turn on the high idle switch. Now start your engine. With in about 2 minutes the high idle should start. Once the high idle starts turn off the high idle switch and allow the ECM to monitor the IAT temperatures. As the engine warms up to 170°F it will cancel on its own and idle normally from that point on. Cold Engine Start (Coolant <140°F - Outside Temp < 32*F) Turn on the 3 cyl switch. Now start your engine. With in about 2 minutes the high idle should start once it get to 1,200 PRM's the 3 cylinder mode with begin. Once the high idle starts turn off the 3 cyl switch and allow the ECM to monitor the IAT temperatures. As the engine warms up to 170°F it will cancel on its own and idle normally from that point on. Warm Engine Start (Coolant 140°F-170°F) You can start the high software with a warm engine. At this point you need to use both the ECT switch and high idle or 3cyl switch. Select the proper idle switch for your weather conditions as in cold start procedure. Once the high idle starts turn off the foolers and allow the ECM to monitor both ECT & IAT temperatures. As the engine warms up to 170°F it will cancel on its own and idle normally from that point on. Forced High Idle Turn on both the ECT fooler and the high idle switch. Start the engine and allow the high idle to start. Once the high idle starts turn off the high idle switch but leave the ECT fooler on. This will allow a forced high idle that never ends. To cancel it just turn off the ECT fooler and it will cancel. So what do you guys think? I can't test out my idea until I decide to get a 24V