ISX

From cummins:Maximum allowable air temperature rise over ambient at intake manifold 16.7 C [30 ºF]Intake Manifold Air Temperature Warning Limit 74ºC [165ºF]Intake Manifold Air Temperature Shutdown limit 76.7ºC [170ºF]Diesel engines are best suited for air temperatures between 60 and 90°F [15 and 32°C]. Engines can withstand temperatures below or above this range, but their efficiency drops.Intake Air That Is Too HotEngine horsepower fails about 1% for each 10 degrees of intake air temperature rise above 90°F [32°C].An engine rated at 250 horsepower will develop only 240 horsepower when the intake air temperature is 130°F [54°C] with the same fuel delivery.Air That Is Too ColdCummins Diesels are rated on the basis of intake air at 85°F [29°C] temperature, but in most localities engines operate part of the time at temperatures of freezing or below. A drop of 60 degrees in intake air temperature results in a 160-degree drop in compression temperature.

I always wondered about that. I think 5" dissipates a lot of it but now I see that the high EGT's of a trailer will eventually wreak havoc. I am thinking I will wrap it in some of that silver stuff that the A/C lines have on it where it goes under the turbo. Wonder if there is something better out there.

How do you tell the difference between a liquid propane regulator and gas propane regulator? I know they used LP regulators back in the day then it would turn into a gas later down the line.

These pics are of AH64ID's 2005 3500 4wd, so now I finally have components for both 2wd and 4wd. I couldn't have done any of this without AH64ID helping me, so thanks again for the help! :thumbup2:Think I will have to make new threads for any other components so I will change this threads title..

Though speed is a big factor, I am not so sure that RPM doesn't play a role also. I run 2050RPM at 70mph, that gets me right at 21mpg, but I think a lower RPM around 1800 could yield higher results. It's the same factor between 4.10 and 3.54 trucks. Even if the 4.10 does make the engine have an easier job, it still uses more fuel to turn the higher RPM, this has been proven by people over and over who constantly say they top out at like 18mpg. From what I have tested and found out, 5mph=2mpg on average, this relationship is exactly the same curve as what Mike just posted, where HP could be replaced with MPG. I was getting more than 2mpg drop as I got around 70 then 75, but down around 55-50mph, I was getting 1.5mpg drop. When you start slowing down, wind becomes less of a factor, so your mileage drop isn't as big, as you speed up, wind starts getting really hard to push and can bring your numbers way down as you speed way up.

Mines up against it too. Never had any issues with it.

I got this in there so I knew something was up when you were having issues lol. Yes, the pic DOES do it justice as to how tight it is :stuned:Guess I have a slight leak, ruining my beautiful trans! Hmm, I'm sure it helps spool up

Well I did powerwash it before touching it It doesn't stay *that* clean haha.

I think I got it now. Been looking all this up as you mention it. I went and looked at my ford and wondered why it didn't have a lot of it but read about how leaf springs don't need some things since they do the job of some things like the track bar. Thank god I finally understand all this. I have been lost for years. Now I just have to run over and find a 4x4 dodge so I can get some pics.

That should make it easier. So the bar going across the tractor and rust bucket are tie rods too?I have A: Tie RodB: Track BarC: Drag LinkD: Sway Bar

Went out and looked at all the 4x4's around here. Now I know what the track bar is lol. Theres 4 pics in here from my brothers 6.0 and theres a bar I don't know what is or does. It's got all the "???"'s on it. Any idea? Other 2 pics are showing track bar in plain view, even on the tractor

I am going to try and get a thread going showing all the components on the truck that aren't part of the engine (since I know we have many diagrams throughout the site showing that). I will start with steering and add stuff as I think of it. Here are all the Steering and Suspension components. This is on a 1997 2500 2wd, I will get pics up of 4wd steering components when I get some. Thanks for the help AH64ID! I just got 4wd pics now but I guess there is a 10 pic limit so scroll down to my next post for them.

Helll, I need pics of the parts on a 4wd that I don't have lol.

yeah, I had absolutely no clue what the idler arm was. I saw it and just stared at it like, where the hell did that thing come from I know I know, pathetic isn't it lol. ---------- Post added at 01:09 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:24 PM ---------- Is the tie rod also called the track bar?

Either I'm ignorant or dumb, haven't even seen half those terms lol. Thanks for the help AH64ID! Google hasn't been any help at all with anything

Exactly, I won't run it in winter. If I do it's just a gallon so that it thins out to B2 or so. Once summer hits, we are lucky to get under 60F here. I liked it a lot too, loved how instant it started. It is about 20 cents a gallon more than regular though. If it wasn't such a hassle (only one place sells it within maybe 150 miles), then I would dump a gallon in for every fill up of regular #2.

I've actually had really good luck with B20. I don't use it much but my fuel pump started ticking really loud one day and I figured whats got more lube in it than B20! So went by a got some and tick went away and never came back. Starts a lot better with B20 also. Has a lot of cetane in it and less energy so you don't get as far though. Be nice if I could just get B2.

I am pretty sure going up out the top of the engine is the easiest way. You have to twist it and kick it and everything but it will come eventually. I was doing it with 5".. Hmm, if your working on a CR (since you posted here lol) then it might be a lot different and I know they don't have as much room with all the other stuff. Is it that tight in there? ---------- Post added at 10:25 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:20 AM ---------- Did some googling and did you take the elbow off the turbo too? That would give you some more clearance.

I am far from smart when it comes to steering and since I hardly mess with it and hear different names for a lot of things, I can hardly keep up. So I am going to try and make a thread showing all the components so everyone can understand just what it is everyone is talking about. Problem is, I need to know what I'm talking about first So I am posting pics of things I am not 100% sure on. I have some theories on what they are called haha, but not sure. If anyone can help me, just list the letter and it's name possibilities. What I mean is put A: track bar, pitman arm, brake..... all the possibilities that one might call it.When I get this all figured out, I am going to make all the pics have labels instead of letters then try and make a sticky out of it, which is why I just dumped this in general conversations for now. Thanks for any help you guys can lend!

I did some googling and found a lot of responses all saying they were awesome, along with a great company to deal with. Not exactly personal experience, but I saw at least 10 different sites with people asking about them and they all got responses saying how awesome they were.

Not sure if you guys have the vacuum actuated cruise control or not. If the vacuum lines have any leak at all, the cruise control will act very weird. This can be hard to chase since mine was acting weird but when you hooked a vacuum gauge on it, I was seeing 30" Hg just idling.. But I ignored that and got new vacuum line connectors and even got some of those tiny little compression clamps to ensure everything was sealed. My cruise is very very smooth now. If you go out to your truck after you have shut it off, you can pull one of the caps off like I show in the pic and it should have vacuum even after a day of sitting. Another way to check it is to turn the truck to the vents that blow air on your head, go back out later and turn the key on but don't start the truck, turn the blower on and it should still be blowing through those vents, if it loses vacuum, it will have defaulted back to the defrost since that uses no vacuum. You can also hook a vacuum gauge up to it and come back after a while.

Oh calm down! It's powered by a 12v wall wart anyways lol. I have had the outdoor one in the a/c vent all day. I can watch room temp and a/c temp lmao. Can't figure out why parents got it set to drop from 78 all day to 70 at night. I will get it in my truck eventually. Thinking of making a new center console with a damn cup holder lol. Have to see if I can integrate the gauge into it. That green light is really retro and I can't get enough of it.

I actually got determined and spent at least half an hour today, trying to find either a clear version of that map where you could read all the numbers, or just anything that showed where the timing was on the vp44. I even switched to different search engines. Couldn't find anything at all

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i0tX-Kjv5LQ Wasn't too hard to figure out once you start hitting buttons

Not sure on the vacuum line box thing. I am thinking the connector not used on the headlight is for sport headlights? I remember they had 2 filaments or something, and maybe it uses that? Not sure, all I can think of though, I know I have one disconnected too.