ISX

Yep. NV4500 NV5600

Got the beast in, 4 days after ordering it. I'll try and be nice to it

Did some more searching. According to this huge thread http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=295060&page=3 they are just like OEM, different mirrors but I wanted to see if they said they were cheaply built or something. So maybe they are a legit good company with just a cheesy name or something. Dealer wants $300? Wonder how much they charge for the nuts to put them on

The NV5600 is I think 100lbs heavier. They are both very stout. The 5th gear nut hardly happens on the NV4500, and when it does it's a simple fix. I would rather have to fix the nut every 100k than row 6 gears, though the nut could be fine for life. I think parts are easier to get for the NV4500 too.

No I was meaning the towing mirrors that fold out that Mike wants. I think if I were you, I would search for the same mirrors all over the net and see how much the price varies. If everyone is the same price, I don't really see an issue. Those mirrors are as simple as it gets so I am not doubting they could sell that cheap. Kool-vue sounds like a cheap chinese brand anyways. You get what you pay for. I would search around and see what the OEM mirrors that are exactly the same go for. Well I had to look. Ebay Buy-It-Now new mirrors like the ones you want go for around $30-$40. I don't know if I would chance a cheap sounding company over just getting the OEM ones off ebay or something.

You can buy those with electric or without, also heated or unheated Needless to say, I got the optionless ones. My old ones were electric so I do miss them.

You've answered everything I have wondered about it. I got some ideas but that injector cleaner is throwing all of them off Oh, on what Dually said, whats the answer to that? About putting it in 1st or 2nd going past D real fast, does it still die?

I'd say anywhere around the flange, doesn't really matter how far you go towards the head as long as it's good and centered in the port. I think mine is a little closer but I really don't recall ever seeing anyones manifold cracking from the pyro probe.

Now that is weird. It's just like D is the fuel shutoff solenoid. I can't figure out what you are doing to get it into D to keep it from dieing. You put it into D right after it starts as fast as you can and it doesn't die? I don't think fuel would have anything to do with that, I mean why would it run perfect and go in reverse fine and then D is like the fuel just gelled instantly, but it obviously fixed it so I'll keep thinking.

That thing drives me nuts. The little things that fix it that never seem to relate to each other. I don't know if the fuel has anything to do with it because you say it only does it in drive, and it runs fine idling nonetheless. Yet injector cleaner fixed it. I'm more curious how it stalls. Like does it just stop instantly or is it more of a smooth stop like you just turned the key off? How long after you put it in D and feel and it shift into gear does it happen? A video would be better but I know that can be a hassle. A good description of how it dies, when it dies after you feel it drop into D, and such would be good. Does it do it religiously or only when conditions are right? If it doesn't do it constantly, how often? Did the injector cleaner fix it through the whole tank of it, and did it screw up on the next tank?

As in the pyrometer? A lot of guys put it right before the turbo/manifold flange, where the manifold reduced to just 2 ports. Get it centered on the rear or foremost port. Thinking the back one is better since #6 would get hotter from a few things. Here is a pic Mike just posted on another thread, hope he doesn't mind, lot better pic of where to put it than any I got. Actually, same pic and article is here: http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/personal/2002/gauges/gauges.htm Scroll down and you will see it.

Crazy thought here, I have no idea what exactly initiates when the orange needle hits the "D", but is there any way it could do something to drain the voltage for a second that makes it pull voltage from the VP and it trips the low voltage threshold for a second, enough to make the VP give up for a second, which is enough to kill it? I don't know how the power gets fed through the VP and trans but maybe the wire is too small and the thing in the trans sucks a lot of volts, which is why revving it up a little keeps it running. I am thinking it just barely hits that threshold, so revving it up gives it another 0.1V that is just enough to keep it running. I don't know if it all feeds back to one small wire that would be susceptible to a voltage drop like that though. I know, crazy, but I been trying to think way outside the box on this one, since all the ideas inside the box haven't worked.

You just twist and pull. Like he does in the vid here http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/personal/2002/bhaf/bhaf.htm You have to drill a hole on the BHAF for it to fit in to.

I have mirrors from a 24V and they bolt up exactly the same. Ironically, I took them off a 94 that got them off a 24V.. So from 94-02 they are all the same.No clue on the worthiness of the ones you want.

http://dodgeram.org/tech/specs/axle/axlespecs.html Dana 60 9.75" (right hand column of specs on that site)

If I am correct, 3rd gens have sensitive injectors that clog easily. I am betting that is the case. http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/3rdgen/injectors/injectors.htm Let someone else chime in before you do anything. Could be something simple that I don't know about since I don't have a 3rd gen.. If it's still under warranty, I would definitely take it to the dealer so they cover the cost of the injector.

P2149 comes up with the injector solenoid sticking open. Check the wires and nuts. P0205 seems to be a short or clogged injector. Sounds like injector 5 is having issues.

Only bad part is, now the rest of the truck needs to be painted. That engine paint says something about 7 days to completely dry, though dry to the touch in half an hour. I don't know why it takes 7 days but my trans has been hanging on the cherry picker for almost 2 weeks now, so it should be good and dry. I guess I could have taken the engine out and done the same but it would be nice to have it out for like a month to take everything off individually and paint it. The trans was a piece of cake to paint. If you spray it down with degreaser or something, all the mud and grease just falls off with the power washer. Then I just took the air hose to it to dry it really quick and start painting. It really does look amazing. Just have no idea what color to make the engine. I'll be damned if I am going to paint it chevy orange

Only after I got done and began to wonder, did I look at the can and read off "Chevy Orange" :banghead:

Man I was sooooo close to saying something sarcastic about it being a 2wd Still took me 2 or 3 hours, but of course I do all this alone so I have nobody to tell me to hurry up You do have some luck though. I think I took my fords trans out without having to jack the truck up until I had to roll the trans out from under it. Not sure if 4x4 dodges sit that high. Most of my problem was getting to things around that 5" exhaust, it is pretty well butted up against the frame and side of the trans. Yeah it didn't exactly polish up. Perfectly clean though. The only engine paint I have is either red or orange. So I guess it will be whichever of those I have.

Yeah I got the upgraded one. The guy who sent me to a place that knew how to turn my timing up is a valair dealer, he said $175 for a 400/900 clutch and new bearings. I thought it was going to cost me over $500, I'm not very good at pricing things Since I got all this time on my hands, think I am going to krylon the trans. Maybe not the aluminum parts, hmm maybe I should. Here's pics of before and after just power washing. I'm going to polish it up until I see my face in it today.

I take off so slow I could top off a glass of water and not spill a drop. I figured it had something to do with being a shock absorbing thing but just don't see how it could happen to me when I accelerate so slow. I might floor it in 4th or 5th but there is no jerkiness to that. :shrug:I'm thinking of getting a valair one or something. Heard they are a little better/cheaper. Not sure though. It sure did have enough fun with the spring though. Might have resurface the flywheel.I'm thinking one of the bearings went bad, and I kept driving it, and it "caught" the clutch a lot when I was just sitting there. It would catch so good sometimes that it would stall the engine, and of course it did all this instantly while I sat at stoplights. I started just putting it in N until it turned green but even then it would start grabbing the gear when I put it back in. So maybe that had something to do with it.

Got it out, and, well, you'll see. You can see where the spring was rubbing the flywheel, you can see wear marks all around the springs too, I have no idea what caused it. I looked up the clutch and is in fact rated for 400HP/800TQ, I might have more TQ than that but not sure if it would tear it up like that :stuned:So that also explains the chinging sound. Throwout bearing and pilot bearing are both trashed. But, atleast we found the problem :lol:To get it out, I took the top and front bolts out of both engine mount brackets, then jacked the front of the engine up. I didn't think it would work but at the very end of my hope, the splines had ended so it finally dropped out while the shaft scraped the floor of the cab, so thank god for that.

So put in new master and slave.. It's exactly the same. The clutch is half as hard to push down ever since whatever happened while I was sitting at the stop light and the time that the clutch pedal became completely useless. Soo, looks like I will be dropping the tranny. Probably today, probably at the end of this post

I would think a built auto would be the best for plowing, one with a good cooler. Not sure though. 24V's are much nicer in winter because of all the sensors they have. I told Mike once if it was winter I would take a 24V any day, in the summer it's just a toss up. I do enjoy having a lot of control over it though, but it's more of a hassle in winter. It's safe to say on a summer day, a 12V is set up perfectly. But in the winter, things change, it takes longer to warm up and idle is way down. After it warms up I guess they would be back to summer day conditions, but it seems you would be doing that daily and a 24V would be so much nicer, not to mention you already have one one that you know whats been done to it and you have made it better and everything. I would just beef up the auto and call it good.